Tony Duquette and Hutton Wilkinson are two jewelry designers acclaimed for their original work.
More is More: Tony Duquette – Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry, the duo’s first-ever all-jewelry exhibit, debuted on Oct. 10 at GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad, CA. The inventive body of work, which will be on display through March 2014, embraces a wide variety of styles, periods and palettes often showcasing unusual gemstones paired with rare materials in whimsical designs.Duquette first found fame creating costumes and sets for musicals during the Golden Age of Hollywood. His film work included The Ziegfeld Follies, starring Fred Astaire and Lucille Bremer; Lovely to Look At, with Zsa Zsa Gabor; and To Catch a Thief, with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. Legendary directors Vincent Minnelli and Alfred Hitchcock sought out the freelance designer for his ability to bring bold, fantastical creations to their sets.
Duquette created his early jewelry pieces at the same time he was designing ballroom scenes and fashion and dream sequences for MGM studios, 20th Century Fox, and Universal Studios. “I will use anything that will help me capture the quality I am seeking; what I find in the streets, in the attic, on the desert, in the sea, the gnarled tree root, the snail’s own shell. To make incrustations with nature and time, to cast a spell, the essence of invention… a personal culture,” Duquette said of his work.
Wilkinson, who began his apprenticeship under Duquette at the age of 18, spent the next 25 years working with him. Wilkinson’s jewelry designs have been worn by Raquel Welch, Joan Allen, Faye Dunaway, Sharon Stone, Liza Minnelli, Drew Barrymore, and Reese Witherspoon, among others.
Check out some of Duquette and Wilkson’s pieces below, handpicked from the collection by GIA Exhibit Developer McKenzie Santimer, or take a virtual tour of the exhibit.
Pond Scum necklace. courtesy of a private collector.
The name of Duquette’s and Wilkinson’s stunning bracelet is Pond Scum – but don’t be fooled by the title. The duo was clearly seeing something beautiful in a patch of landscape most might have dismissed as something unattractive.
“The malachite slices could represent lily pads in a pond; the beads and citrine resemble petals and leaves that pool up against rocks and tree trunks. Wearing this bracelet is like wearing a piece of nature,” says Santimer.
Barriera Corallina necklace. Courtesy of a private collector.
Barriera Corallina is a striking combination of coral, cultured pearl, peridot, and 18K gold.
“The unique characteristics of each pearl lend an ethereal beauty to the piece. The coral evokes seaweed, and creates a stunning contrast to the pearls. It’s easy to imagine a mermaid wearing this ocean garland,” observes Santimer.
Imperial Dragons ring. Courtesy of a private collector.
Entitled Imperial Dragons, these rings of carved white jade, tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline, citrine, diamond, and 18K gold, are examples of exquisite craftsmanship. The rings also tell the legend of the Foo Dogs – lions that guard palaces, tombs, and other important buildings.
“Imperial dragons is a synthesis of ancient Chinese legends and traditional materials like jade and modern jewelry making techniques, seen in the claws grasping the center stones. The gnarled knuckles and textured skin show masterful craftsmanship,” notes Santimer.
Fantastic Cross brooch.
Fantastic Cross uses fantastical elements. Sharks’ teeth give the emerald and diamond brooch sharp, ominous tips. Black paint fleck the tentacle-like structures bordering the pearls. This piece is proof that unorthodox materials became something extraordinary in the hands of Duquette and Wilkinson
Phoenix Spider brooch.
With its shelled back and undulating arms, the Phoenix Spider is extremely lifelike. The use of enamel (the black and green spots dotting the piece) is quite ingenious, and reflects a painter’s – rather than a jeweler’s – design sensibilities. The piece is also versatile: it can be worn as a hat pin, on a blouse, or any other article of clothing.
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