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GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

A 1.36 carat round brilliant cut diamond with twisting bands of platinum and 0.96 carats of melee.
Guide to Diamond Shapes for Engagement Rings

There are so many diamond shapes to choose from when shopping for an engagement ring: round, square, marquise and more. Here’s a guide to what makes each shape special to help you pick the perfect diamond shape for your engagement ring.

First, it’s important to know the difference between a diamond’s shape and its cut. It is common in the diamond marketplace to refer to diamond engagement ring shapes as “cuts.”  Shape describes a diamond’s basic outline when viewed face up (round, square, oval, etc.). Cut, or cutting style, refers to how the diamond’s facets are arranged. For example, the most common cutting style for diamond shapes is the brilliant cut with an arrangement of 57 or 58 facets designed to maximize sparkle. So when you find that perfect emerald cut diamond engagement ring, know that what you have is actually a square or rectangular shaped diamond engagement ring.

Some diamonds, most commonly square or rectangular shapes, are step cut. Emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds are examples. The step cut has concentric rows of facets on the crown and pavilion for a more elegant look. However, not all square or rectangular diamonds are step cut; many are brilliant cut, like the radiant and princess cut diamond.

All diamond shapes other than round are called fancy shapes. Read on to learn more about these diamond shapes:

Round diamond shapes
Rectangular diamond shapes
Square diamond shapes
Marquise diamond shapes
Oval diamond shapes
Pear diamond shapes
Heart diamond shapes

A 1.00 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring accented by 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank.

A modern classic: This round diamond shape is brilliant cut to deliver the signature light show we’ve come to associate with diamonds. In this engagement ring, a 1 carat (ct) round center stone is given a boost of additional sparkle by the 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Round diamond shapes

What’s great about round diamond shapes

Round is the most popular of the diamond engagement ring shapes, and it holds this title because the round brilliant cut is designed to produce maximum brightness, fire and sparkle in a colorless diamond. The modern round brilliant cut diamond has a round girdle outline, 56 symmetrically placed triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table facet and an optional culet facet, for a total of 57 or 58 facets.

A vintage engagement ring featuring a 3.03 carat old European cut diamond and a 3.01 carat ruby.

Antique or modern? It’s hard to tell with this delicious pairing of an old European cut diamond weighing 3.03 ct and a 3.01 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Lapidaries have been cutting round diamonds for centuries, but it wasn’t until the invention of the bruting machine in the early 1870s that a round diamond could be more easily made with a pleasing, symmetrical outline. The first of these was the old European cut diamond, a precursor to the modern round brilliant cut but with a higher crown and greater total depth than its modern counterpart. The old European cut is still a popular choice for brides wanting an antique look.

A 5.40 carat old European cut diamond engagement ring.

Old World charm abounds in this 5.40 ct old European cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem.com

What to look for in round diamond shapes

Symmetry is key when shopping for a round diamond to feature in your engagement ring. And if the diamond is cut as a round brilliant, as most are, pay attention to its cut quality, or how well it interacts with light. Look for brightness (often called brilliance) – the internal and external reflections of white light. Fire – the flashes of color seen as you rock the diamond under the store’s spotlights. Sparkle – spots of light that flash when the diamond moves. And scintillation – a combination of sparkle and balanced patterns of bright and dark areas. Well-cut round diamonds are brighter with more fire and scintillation than poorly cut ones, even if they’re of equivalent color, clarity and carat weight.

A 1.36 carat round brilliant cut diamond cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee.

A 1.36 ct round brilliant cut diamond is cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Avoid diamonds with extremely thin or “knife-edge” girdles or with inclusions near the girdle, which make them more vulnerable to damage.

To be certain of the quality of the cut on your round brilliant diamond, buy one with a GIA diamond grading report, which will provide an objective assessment. Look for a cut grade of Excellent or Very Good.

A modern diamond engagement ring featuring three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats set in platinum.

The emerald cut diamond is a long-standing favorite engagement ring shape. Renowned for its sophistication, its streamlined rectangular shape is often associated with the Art Deco period. This modern platinum ring features three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Rectangular diamond shapes

What’s great about rectangular diamond shapes

Rectangular diamond shapes have a long history and a reputation for classic elegance in an engagement ring. The elongated shape can make a bride’s fingers look longer and more slender. Three of the most common rectangular diamond shapes are actually modified rectangles: the emerald cut, cushion cut and radiant cut.

Emerald cut: With its crisp, sophisticated lines, the emerald cut is the most popular of the step-cut diamonds. Its four longer sides have beveled corners with two, three or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion. An emerald cut diamond engagement ring is a perennial favorite with the stylish elite.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond engagement ring featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond is the star in this setting featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion cut: Adorning the fingers of brides for centuries, the cushion cut diamond has curved sides and rounded corners. It typically has a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and large culet facet. Since the cushion cut retains more color face up than a brilliant cut, a cushion cut is well suited to colored diamonds. A cushion cut diamond will be a hit with a bride who favors an antique style for her engagement ring.

A 4.00 carat radiant cut diamond engagement ring wrapped with two diamond halos.

A bride-to-be would happily say “I will” as she puts on this 4.00 ct radiant cut diamond wrapped by two diamond halos. Courtesy: Uneek

Radiant cut: One of the newest rectangular shaped diamonds is the radiant cut, a modified brilliant cut introduced in 1977. It boasts the fire of a round brilliant cut diamond in a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners.

What to look for in rectangular diamond shapes

As with all diamond shapes, symmetry is important for rectangular diamonds. Facets on opposite sides should be parallel to one another, corners should be cropped to identical size and the culet should be well centered.

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring.

The cushion cut diamond is a shape that is both classic and contemporary. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

Emerald cuts do not hide inclusions as well as brilliant cuts due to their long rectangular facets, so high clarity is important. Emerald cuts are also less scintillating due to the step cut style of faceting. Since lots of scintillation masks lower color grades, this type of facet pattern looks best on a diamond with higher colors on the GIA D-to-Z color scale. However, it can intensify color in a colored diamond.

For radiant cut diamonds, look for brightness, sparkle and scintillation, as you would for a round brilliant cut diamond. Clarity is less of a concern, as the modified brilliant cut faceting pattern can disguise inclusions that would be more visible in an emerald cut diamond.

A 5.89 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring.

An emerald cut diamond like this 5.89 ct beauty exudes elegance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Square diamond shapes

What’s great about square diamond shapes

Square diamond shapes in engagement rings are perfect for the woman with long, slender fingers who wants them to look shorter. They are also a statement of individuality for a bride who would appreciate a contemporary alternative to the classic round brilliant cut. Want a square shaped diamond in your engagement ring? In addition to the square versions of the cushion cut, emerald cut and radiant cut diamonds described above, consider the princess cut or Asscher cut.

A princess cut diamond engagement ring with two tapered baguettes.

A princess cut diamond shows off its sparkle in this engagement ring. Two tapered baguettes add a dash of drama. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Created in 1981, the princess cut diamond has a modified brilliant facet arrangement that gives it electrifying sparkle and scintillation. For a very different, but surprisingly modern look, the Asscher cut – first introduced in 1902 but since modified for greater brilliance – is similar to a square emerald cut but with larger step facets, a higher crown and a smaller table. Unlike the pointed corners of the princess cut, the corners of an Asscher cut are cropped, giving it the appearance of an octagon.

A 9.57 carat Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds.

Love the combination of a square shape and a modified brilliant cut? Then you’re sure to fall for a ring like this one – a 9.57 ct Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: Vivid Diamonds and Jewelry

What to look for in square diamond shapes

Again, look for good symmetry. Facets should match on either side of an imaginary line drawn down the middle of the stone. Look for a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table and other facets.

Fine princess and Asscher cut diamonds will not have a culet facet, which must be taken into consideration when mounting the stone. The culet is a safety facet that helps protect the point on the pavilion from chipping when the diamond is loose or if it is exposed in a setting. In addition, for the princess cut, it is important to choose a prong or bezel setting that protects the pointed corners.

As with emerald cut diamonds, the Asscher cut is most effective for diamonds that are colorless (D–F on the GIA color scale) or colored diamonds.

An 8.06 carat art deco diamond engagement ring, mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting.

A square-shaped Asscher cut diamond, circa 1935, in a ring by Cartier Paris reflects the by-gone grandeur of the Art Deco era. The 8.06 ct diamond is mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3.50 carat marquise shaped diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

This stunning 3.50 ct marquise shaped diamond is set in platinum with its delicate tips protected by V-shaped prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Marquise diamond shapes

What’s great about marquise diamond shapes

An attractive, elongated shape with a royal pedigree, the marquise (pronounced “mahr-keez”) was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of King Louis XV, as its outline resembled the shape of her mouth. Because of its shape, a marquise diamond ring will look larger face up than a round diamond of the same weight. A marquise diamond engagement ring can also make the finger appear longer and more slender.

What to look for in marquise diamond shapes

Several factors must be considered when choosing a marquise diamond for your engagement ring. You want a marquise that is neither too long (and thus may sacrifice brightness and pattern) or too short (“stubby”) and thus loses the benefit of length to your bride’s finger. The points at either end should be sharp.

A 0.91 carat marquise cut diamond engagement ring featuring two smaller marquise side stones.

Note the regal gentility of this 0.91 ct marquise diamond and the two smaller marquise side stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Symmetry is extremely important for marquise diamonds. Both sides (wings) should have the same amount of curve, and the facets on one side of that imaginary line down the center of the diamond should match exactly the shape and size of the facets on the other side. Since the tips of a marquise diamond are where it is most vulnerable, it is not unusual for them to have slightly greater girdle thickness. If the marquise diamond is prong set, choose V-shaped prongs for the tips. A well-cut marquise will typically display a minimal to no bow-tie pattern.

Learn how to spot the bow tie effect in diamonds.

A 5.31 carat oval diamond engagement ring set in 18K white gold.

Oval diamond shapes are making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why in this 18K white gold ring featuring 5.31 carats of diamonds from the Moval Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Oval diamond shapes

What’s great about oval diamond shapes

Although a shape that is many hundreds of years old, the oval diamond has gained popularity for engagement rings in recent years because of its elegance and the fire it shows when cut in the brilliant faceting style. In addition, with its greater surface area, an oval diamond may appear larger than a round brilliant diamond of the same weight (and, like rectangular and marquise diamonds, can help elongate shorter fingers). One advantage over other fancy shapes is that the rounded edges make it less prone to chipping.

What to look for in oval diamond shapes

Pay attention to proportion. Longer oval diamonds are preferred by some, but they are not practical to cut so tend to be harder to find.

As with other fancy diamond shapes, symmetry is essential to ensuring beauty in an oval diamond. Again, placing an imaginary line down the length of the diamond and then across its center, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Also look for a graceful outline and the size and nature of the bow-tie pattern. The bow tie on a well-cut oval diamond will be minimal or non-existent.

An oval cut diamond engagement ring featuring two diamond side stones.

The virtues of an oval cut diamond are easy to see in this engagement ring. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

A 5.76 carat pear shape morganite engagement ring set in 14K rose gold.

The pear shape is not just for diamonds. In fact, it’s a popular shape for the newest trend – morganite engagement rings. This 14K rose gold ring features a 5.76 ct morganite, surrounded by 0.58 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Pear diamond shapes

What’s great about pear diamond shapes

An irresistible blend of the marquise and round brilliant, the pear shaped diamond is a stylish choice among diamond shapes. Worn with the point toward the tip of the finger, its graceful, tapered shape can make the hand look slimmer and more elegant, perfect for an engagement ring.

An 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring.

Looking for inspiration? You don’t need to look further than this 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring. It sold at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction for $17.7 million on October 7, 2014. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to look for in pear diamond shapes

Pear shaped diamonds come in a variety of proportions, so there are many options for choosing one that flatters the finger. Look closely at the wings on either side of the point to make sure they are symmetrical, with the rounded end a good semi-circle. Since the point is the weakest feature, look for (and avoid) inclusions in that area. If prong setting the diamond, use a V-shaped prong on the point for greater protection.

As with oval and marquise diamond shapes, the bow-tie pattern on the table should be minimal, or better yet, non-existent.

A 1.39 carat fancy yellow pear shaped diamond engagement ring.

This 1.39 ct fancy yellow pear shaped diamond glows like a star in the evening sky. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A heart shaped diamond held in a pair of jeweler’s tweezers.

Like true love, a heart shaped diamond may be hard to find, since this shape works best with larger diamonds of good clarity. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Heart diamond shapes

What’s great about heart diamond shapes

The heart shaped diamond is the essence of romance. It is also a very flattering style for larger fingers.

What to look for in heart diamond shapes

There are good reasons why this is one of the rarest of diamond shapes for engagement rings. A well-shaped heart requires a large diamond, at least one-half carat. In addition, inclusions tend to be more prominent in this shape, so you want a diamond that has good clarity. Symmetry is also key: The well-rounded lobes should match in size and shape, as well as faceting style, and the cleft between them (as well as the point) should be well defined.

Ready to shop for your favorite diamond shape engagement ring? Follow the links for more tips and inspiration:

Round Shaped Engagement Rings
Emerald Cut Engagement Rings
Radiant Cut Engagement Rings
Cushion Cut Engagement Rings
Princess Cut Engagement Rings
Marquise Shaped Engagement Rings
Pear Shaped Engagement Rings
Oval Shaped Engagement Rings
Heart Shaped Engagement Rings

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A 3.00 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring.
How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Engagement Rings

Antique and vintage engagement rings are in fashion – and for good reason. They have an undeniable charm and style. They are a beautiful piece of the past. They’re lasting symbols of love. Here’s how to pick one that you’ll cherish.

In this blog, we cover:
Establishing a budget for antique and vintage engagement rings
Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings
Important jewelry periods for antique and vintage engagement rings
Diamond cuts typical of antique and vintage engagement rings
Challenges with buying antique and vintage engagement rings
Where to find antique and vintage engagement rings

Establishing a budget for antique and vintage engagement rings

Prices for antique and vintage engagement rings run the gamut from less than $1,000 to more than $100,000. Put another way, there are beautiful rings for every budget. Deciding what to spend is a personal decision that balances practicality and love. You know what’s best for your circumstances.

A 1.12 carat cushion cut diamond engagement ring with 0.48 carats of melee.

If you’re looking for an antique engagement ring, aristocratic elegance is a hallmark of the Edwardian era. In this intricate creation, a 1.12 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond nestles within approximately 0.48 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings

Before we dive into the details of shopping for antique and vintage engagement rings, here are a few terms you need to know:

  • Antique: Jewelry made more than 100 years ago
  • Vintage: Jewelry that is not contemporary, but not old enough to be antique
  • Estate: Preowned jewelry – can be antique, vintage or contemporary

Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings will be helpful for your search. If you’re interested in an engagement ring from a specific period, like the Victorian era, you’ll want to use the proper terminology to help the retailer find the appropriate pieces. It also shows that you’re an educated customer.

Victorian style heart shaped moonstone engagement ring surrounded with a halo if diamonds.

With its heart shaped moonstone cradled in a halo of diamonds, this Victorian era engagement ring sparkles with romance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Important jewelry periods for antique and vintage engagement rings

Throughout history, certain periods or cultural movements have had a signature jewelry style. Your delightful challenge will be finding antique and vintage engagement rings and choosing one that best captures the spirit of your love. Here are brief descriptions of rings made during some of the more important jewelry periods.

  • Victorian (1837–1901): During the long reign of Queen Victoria, engagement rings featured a number of romantic design motifs, including acrostics (using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word), serpents, flowers, hearts and more. With the discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the latter half of her reign, diamonds became more common. The Victorian era spanned many decades, so you’re likely to find antique engagement rings from this era that charm your heart and eye.

Learn more about Victorian style engagement rings.

Gold snake motif engagement ring featuring two coiled serpents set with ruby, diamond and emerald.

An engagement ring with a snake motif might seem unusual to modern eyes. To Victorians, the serpent symbolized love, eternity and wisdom. Two coiled serpents are set with ruby, diamond and emerald. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

  • Art Nouveau (1890s–early 1910s): Antique engagement rings of this period can be identified by the use of sinuous whiplash lines, enamel and unusual colored gems. Jewelry designers were strongly inspired by nature. They made fantastical pieces often depicting peacocks, swans, swallows, bats, dragonflies and butterflies, as well as the feminine form. Asymmetry (a lack of proportion between two parts of an object) and the economy of line (the elimination of non-essential elements) are other signature design features of this period.

Learn more about Art Nouveau engagement rings.

Art Nouveau antique engagement ring with diamonds and dramatic swirling lines.

Dramatic swirling lines, a signature of Art Nouveau jewelry, infuse this ring with a sense of movement while diamonds add sparkle. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

  • Edwardian (1890s–1915): Triumphal laurel wreaths, scrolls, feathers, tassels, ribbons tied in bowknots, garlands of flowers, platinum and diamonds gave Edwardian era engagement rings a regal look, in keeping with the fashion established by Victoria’s heir, King Edward VII. The marquise cut diamond was also in fashion; the elegant shape was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of France’s King Louis XV, because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth.

Learn more about Edwardian engagement rings.

A 1.63 carat elongated oval diamond engagement ring surrounded by milgrain and delicate open work.

This 1.63 ct elongated oval diamond is surrounded by milgrain and delicate open work that are characteristic of the Edwardian era. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

  • Art Deco (1920s–1930s): For engagement rings of this period, look for geometric patterns and abstract designs brought to life with diamonds and gems of contrasting colors. Triangles, squares, rectangles and other geometric patterns were used to evoke the streamlined, modern spirit of the time. If you love a simple, yet bold style, then Art Deco vintage engagement rings would suit your taste.
A 3.00 carat emerald cut vintage diamond engagement ring boarded by emeralds.

A 3.00 ct emerald cut diamond bordered by emeralds captures the geometric patterns and contrasting colors that are classic Art Deco. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

Learn more about Art Deco engagement rings.

  • Retro (mid-1930s to the 1950s): Retro era engagement rings featured the geometric shapes of the Art Deco era but softened them with curves. Gold, especially rose gold, was the metal of choice. Expect to see these vintage engagement rings set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine. Diamonds tended to be small, so jewelers used techniques like the illusion setting to make them appear larger. Designs were inspired by mechanical objects such as bicycle chains and padlocks.

Learn more about Retro-style engagement rings.

Retro engagement ring with rubies and diamonds.

Wearable sculpture is a perfect way to describe this Retro era engagement ring. The diamonds shine brighter for being juxtaposed against rubies. Courtesy: Lang Antiques.com

Diamond cuts typical of antique and vintage engagement rings

If you’re looking for antique engagement rings, you’re likely to come across the terms old mine cut and old European cut diamonds.

An old mine cut diamond is a squarish or cushion shaped brilliant with many proportion variations that was often used in jewelry during the Georgian (1714–1837) and early to mid-Victorian periods. Although it has 58 facets like most modern round brilliant cut diamonds, it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. It also has short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places, which contribute to its distinctive look.

A 0.68 carat old mine cut diamond.

No two old mine cut diamonds are identical. This one weighs 0.68 ct. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

The old European cut emerged as advances in diamond cutting technology in the late 1800s made it possible to fashion round girdles, like the modern round brilliant, though it has a higher crown, very small table and greater total depth. It is typically found in jewelry from the late Victorian era, the Edwardian era and the Art Deco period.

A 0.99 ct old European cut diamond.

This 0.99 ct old European cut diamond has a stately elegance. Photo: Orasa Weldon/ GIA

A 0.73 carat round brilliant cut diamond.

The round brilliant cut diamond, here at 0.73 carats, has been the standard for engagement rings since the mid-20th century. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

Challenges with buying antique and vintage engagement rings

Antique and vintage engagement rings can be a unique choice for your bride-to-be, but there are some challenges you should be aware of before you make a purchase.

  1. Synthetic Gems and Simulants:
    When shopping for antique and vintage engagement rings, it’s not uncommon to find some set with synthetic gems or simulants. Synthetic rubies have been around since the late 1800s, and both synthetic rubies and sapphires were very popular in the early to mid-1900s as they made jewelry more affordable. During the Art Deco era in particular, small calibré cut synthetic rubies and sapphires often served to accent diamonds in engagement rings and other jewelry. By the middle of the 20th century, synthetic emerald was also available, and by the 1970s we had synthetic alexandrite, opal, turquoise, citrine and amethyst, among others.
    Simulants, like garnet-and-glass doublets in different colors (not just red, but also blue, green and even colorless) and other imitations, were commonly used in place of natural gemstones. Synthetics and simulants were often mixed with natural gems or diamonds. Over the years, fine gems in some pieces of antique or vintage jewelry have been removed and replaced with less-expensive imitations. The bottom line: Don’t assume that just because a ring is older, the stones are natural.
  2. Thinning Prongs and Shanks:
    With time, prongs on antique and vintage engagement rings can weaken from years of wear. When prongs are thin or worn, they can’t hold the stone as securely, making it vulnerable to loss. Retipping a prong usually requires removal and resetting of the stone, which always comes with some level of risk. Similarly, the back of the shank may be too thin on some rings, so it may need to be replaced with a new quarter shank or half shank.
  3. Resizing Issues:
    Antique and vintage engagement rings can be very difficult to resize, especially to go significantly larger or smaller. Consult with your jeweler on how to determine ring size before you buy.
  4. Return Policy:
    What happens if the engagement ring you bought doesn’t meet your expectations (or those of your bride-to-be) when you get it home? Our suggestion: Make sure the retailer has a generous and fair return policy. You should insist on having at least seven days to return an item.
Retro era engagement ring with two baguette diamonds weighing 0.60 carats and about 2.00 carats of melee.

A distinctive geometric pattern with both strong angles and curves incorporates two baguette diamonds weighing approximately 0.60 carats and about 2.00 carats of melee in this Retro era ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where to find antique and vintage engagement rings

A number of websites specialize in antique and vintage engagement rings. To determine if an online retailer is trustworthy, look to see how long they have been in business and if they are in good standing with the Better Business Bureau. Be sure to speak with retailers directly both to get answers to your questions and see if they are knowledgeable professionals. It is wise to purchase items with diamonds that come with GIA Grading Reports. Our blog on the Five Non-Negotiable Rules for Buying Jewelry Online has more essential information that may be helpful during your search.

Auction catalogs and websites that sell estate jewelry are two other sources. In addition, you can search the GIA Retailer Lookup for retailers who carry GIA-graded diamonds. Some of them also sell antique and vintage engagement rings, so it may be a good place to start.

A 0.85 ct octagonal emerald cut diamond Art Deco engagement ring accompanied by eight rectangular baguette cut diamonds and a group of round old European cut diamonds.

Contrasting geometric shapes create a sum greater than its parts in this Art Deco ring. A 0.85 ct octagonal emerald cut diamond is the center stone, accompanied by eight rectangular baguette cut diamonds and a group of round old European cut diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you find your perfect antique or vintage engagement ring, consider getting an unbiased appraisal from an experienced jeweler or independent jewelry appraiser. The appraisal should provide you with a full description of the piece, including its condition, as well as validate its historical period and estimate its value.

Searching for antique and vintage engagement rings can be like going through a treasure chest filled with lots of precious surprises. If you’re having a tough time finding one that’s right for you, consider creating a custom engagement ring with these antique and vintage styles in mind.

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A 2.00 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring framed by milgrain and another 0.75 carats of diamonds in the shank.
How to Determine Ring Size: Tips and Ring Size Chart

Getting the ring size right is a must for any engagement ring. After all, you’ve invested a lot in selecting the perfect ring and planning the proposal, so naturally you’ll want the ring to fit right out of the box.

In this blog, we’ll dispel some common myths floating around on the Internet and provide some reliable tips on how to determine her ring size, including an international ring size chart, so you can get it right. (more…)

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A rose gold band adds a dramatic splash of color when bracketed between two bands in white gold. A subtle touch: The pattern in the rose gold ring is echoed in the diamond wedding bands.
Pairing Wedding Bands and Engagement Rings: Five Inspirations to Complete the Look

A lot of love and care went into choosing and giving your engagement ring, so now it’s time to give wedding bands your undivided attention. The choices seem endless, but we’ve gathered some popular looks to help narrow things down for you. (more…)

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2.32 ct oval pink diamond
Engagement Ring Styles: Seven Irresistible Trends

Love may be eternal, but trendy engagement ring styles are meant to capture the moment you fell in love. Trending diamond shapes include marquise, cushion cut and oval. Pink is in, as are two-tone halo settings. (more…)

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18K White Gold 10.09ct Cushion Diamond Halo Engagement Ring
Engagement Ring Buying: How to Compare Loose Diamonds

Comparing loose diamonds for an engagement ring? Don’t be dismayed by the dizzying array of choices. The important thing is understanding how to compare loose diamonds. Here are six easy steps to help you pick a diamond that’s beautiful and a smart purchase.

(more…)

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Rose gold oval diamond engagement ring
Diamond Engagement Ring Setting: How Metal Affects Diamond Color Appearance

Selecting the right metal for your engagement ring setting is just as important as selecting the right diamond. The metal will not only define the ring’s style, but it can also play a big role in your diamond’s color appearance. Here’s how to choose wisely.

A solitaire center stone surrounded by diamond melee in a gold engagement ring setting.

A gold engagement ring allows the solitaire diamond to be the star of the show. Diamond melee along the ring’s shank play a supporting role, adding even more sparkle to the overall effect. Courtesy: Stuller Inc.

Gold, platinum and silver are the metals most often used in jewelry. Their allure, workability and durability make gold and platinum excellent choices for an engagement ring. For many people, choosing an engagement ring setting starts with a color and style preference. Some prefer the warmth of yellow gold or rose gold engagement rings; others opt for the coolness and classicism of white metals such as platinum or white gold for their engagement rings. Yet few people consider the effect that engagement ring’s metal color has on the most important feature of an engagement ring – the center stone, which is often a diamond.

A 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond set in a rose gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K rose gold band brings warmth to this 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The importance of diamond color and reflection

When choosing an engagement ring setting in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, platinum or silver, consider these important things:

Your diamond’s color. Although many people think of gem-quality diamonds as colorless, truly colorless diamonds are actually very rare. Most diamonds used in jewelry and diamond engagement rings are nearly colorless with hints of yellow, brown or gray. In picking an engagement ring in yellow gold, white gold or other metal for your ring setting, you’ll need to know where your diamond is on the GIA D-to-Z Color Scale.

The fact that diamonds are highly reflective. The many facets of a standard round brilliant diamond and other diamond shapes act like tiny mirrors reflecting their surroundings, including the color of the band and the prongs holding the gem.

Knowing this, you can use the color of the metal in your engagement ring to highlight your diamond’s color or create a more harmonious appearance.

A 1.20 ct emerald cut diamond set in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K gold band complements the hint of yellow in this 1.20 ct N color emerald cut diamond for a very harmonious look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you’ve settled on whether you want your engagement ring design to highlight the main diamond or create a sense of harmony between the setting and the center stone, you’ll have many options to choose from. Remember, your jeweler is your best resource. She or he will understand the subtle nuances of diamond color and can make the best metal color recommendations to achieve the look you’re going for. Also, the best way to see a metal’s effect on diamond color appearance is to see the diamond and the engagement ring setting in person. In the meantime, though, here are some tried and true ideas to get you thinking.

Metals for diamonds graded D through J

All things being equal for diamonds on the D-to-Z scale, the less color the stone has the more valuable it is. Diamonds graded D-E-F on the GIA color scale are considered colorless, and a white metal—platinum or white-gold engagement ring setting is the ideal choice to emphasize their beauty. Diamonds graded G through J are in the near-colorless range, with an almost imperceptible hint of yellow. They, too, are good candidates for a platinum or white gold ring setting.

If you choose another color of metal or opt for a two-tone ring to create contrast, the prongs that hold the diamond should be a white metal like white gold or platinum. Yellow gold prongs could impart some yellow color to the diamond, making your colorless or near-colorless stone look like it has a different color grade.

A 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes set in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A platinum band heightens the icy beauty of this 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo engagement ring setting.

Like the white look, but want some contrast? This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo, which adds visual richness to the design. Courtesy: PE Jay Creations

Metals for diamonds graded M through Z

A diamond with a color grade of M or lower will likely have a noticeable yellow tint. A yellow gold band will accentuate the yellow in the diamond; a white band might make the diamond appear more colorless. Diamonds with a color grade of K or L are in something of a middle zone; you can use either yellow gold or white metal bands such as platinum or white gold, depending on the effect you want for your engagement ring setting.

A K color diamond in a gold engagement ring setting.

The diamond center stone in this ring is a K color. A gold band brings out the hint of yellow, giving the diamond a softer appearance. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Set in a platinum engagement ring setting, this 11.04 ct yellowish diamond is surrounded by 5.05 carats of white diamond melee.

A fanciful platinum setting with 5.05 carats of white diamond melee provides a pleasing contrast with the 11.04 ct yellowish diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: MUNNU The Gem Palace

Picking metals for fancy-color diamonds

Diamonds that fall outside the D-to-Z color range are called “fancy colors.” Selecting the right metal to accentuate these unique stones is key to delivering the radiance and allure of each engagement ring. Naturally occurring colors include blue, brown, pink, yellow and green. These diamonds are evaluated less for brilliance or fire and more for color intensity. Depending on the hue, tone and saturation of the color, the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System assigns colored diamonds one of these color grades: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark and Fancy Deep. Generally, Fancy Vivid and Fancy Deep command the highest prices.

Metals for brown diamonds

Brown diamonds were once deemed unsuitable for jewelry. Then marketers in the 1980s gave them tantalizing names like champagne, cognac and chocolate, and brown diamonds developed their own niche.

Like yellowish diamonds, brown diamonds can be placed on a white gold or platinum engagement ring setting to highlight their color, or they can be placed in a yellow gold or rose gold engagement ring setting to complement their color. Even the metal used for prongs can either contrast or complement the diamond in the center.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond in an 18K white gold engagement ring setting, surrounded by a double halo of white diamond melee.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond pops because it is set in an 18K white gold band and surrounded by a double halo of 0.39 carats of white diamond melee. White prongs accentuate the look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A yellow gold engagement ring setting featuring a brown cushion cut diamond accented with platinum prongs and white diamond side stones.

Neil Lane designed this ring for actress, model and Paralympic medalist Amy Purdy. A brown cushion cut diamond is the center stone. A yellow gold band creates a soft backdrop, while platinum prongs and white diamond side stones provide an arresting contrast. Courtesy: Neil Lane

Metals for yellow diamonds

Yellow diamonds were relatively rare until the discovery in the late 1860s of quantities of what today would be considered fancy yellows at several locations in South Africa. They are now found around the world. The presence of nitrogen gives them their color.

A platinum or white gold engagement ring can highlight the color of a yellow diamond, while a yellow gold ring will harmonize with the color of the yellow diamond.

A double halo engagement ring setting of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond

A double halo of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the frosty backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond with 1.08 carats if yellow diamonds in the halo and shank in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

The combination of a 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond, 1.08 carats of yellow diamonds in the halo and along the shank and an 18K yellow gold band creates an enchanting engagement ring setting. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Metals for pink diamonds

Pink diamonds are exceedingly rare. Historically, they have been found in Brazil’s alluvial workings and in Indian and African mines. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine in Australia has been the most important source of pink diamonds, but even here they are quite rare. According to Rio Tinto Ltd., the owner of the mine, “more than 800 million carats of rough diamonds have been produced from the Argyle Diamond Mine. Total carats of pink rough: less than 1% of total production.” Not surprisingly, pink diamonds are extremely expensive.

Since the color of pink diamonds is so prized, it is rare to see them set in a yellow gold engagement ring setting. A pink diamond is the star, and the white metal band is used to highlight its color.

A white metal engagement ring setting and double halo of white diamonds surround a 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond.

A white metal band and double halo of white diamonds form the elegant frame for this 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond. The piece sold for more than $28.5 million at a Christie’s auction in November 2015. Courtesy: Christie’s

Metals for blue diamonds

Blue diamonds are also extraordinarily rare and very expensive. India is their historic source, and it is believed that the 45.52 ct Hope Diamond, the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff and other famous blue diamonds originated there. Today, the Premier mine in South Africa, which opened in 1903, is considered the most significant source of blue diamonds. Nevertheless, at the end of the 20th century blue diamonds accounted for less than 0.1% of diamonds found there.

Like pink diamonds, they are almost always set in a platinum, white gold or silver engagement ring setting that highlights their color.

A 5.98 ct Fancy light blue diamond in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A natural 5.98 ct Fancy Light blue diamond sits in a platinum band. Courtesy: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada; Gift of Vincent Tovell. Certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act.

A beautiful engagement ring is the product of a number of choices that add up to a stunning creation. Knowing how to protect your diamond engagement ring setting is another important consideration.

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Pear Shaped 5.76ct Morganite
How to Pick a Morganite Engagement Ring

Morganite engagement rings are trending – and for good reason. Morganite is a beautiful, durable and a comparatively affordable pink gem. It has also benefited from a lot of buzz. Here’s what you need to know about morganite engagement rings.

In this blog, we’ll cover:
Why is morganite so popular?
What type of gem is morganite?
Where does morganite come from?
Morganite qualities to look for
Adding diamonds to a morganite engagement ring
Setting ideas for morganite engagement rings
Caring for and cleaning a morganite engagement ring

Why is morganite so popular?

4.08 carat (ct) center stone encircled by diamonds that trail down the shank. The 18K rose gold setting accentuates the morganite’s color.

Morganite is a picture of romance in this ring featuring a 4.08 carat (ct) center stone encircled by diamonds that trail down the shank. The 18K rose gold setting accentuates the morganite’s color. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Interest in morganite engagement rings may have started in 2002, when Ben Affleck proposed to Jennifer Lopez with a 6.1 carat (ct) pink diamond. Pink picked up more momentum when Apple introduced its now iconic rose gold iPhone in 2013 and Pantone named “Marsala” — an earthy red hue that morganite compliments beautifully — the 2015 Color of the Year.

Fashion trends aside, pink has long been associated with love, romance, femininity and tenderness – so it’s not surprising that pink gems have an irresistible appeal. The color pink also flatters any skin tone.

The affordability of morganite engagement rings – especially compared to pink diamonds – puts the look within reach of brides-to-be. It is easy to see why morganite engagement rings, especially those with rose gold settings, have become so popular.

What type of gem is morganite?

20.03 ct morganite ring. Decorating the halo and band are 1.07 carats of diamonds.

All that seems to be missing from this 20.03 ct morganite ring is the bride who will wear it. Decorating the halo and band are 1.07 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Morganite is a delicate pastel pink to purplish pink (“rose”), yellowish pink (“peach”) or orangey pink (“salmon”) variety of beryl, a mineral species that also includes emerald, aquamarine and beryls in other colors. Its color is caused by traces of manganese. Strong hues in morganite are rare, and gems usually have to be fairly large to achieve the finest color.

Morganite is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This makes a morganite engagement ring suitable for everyday wear, although it is not as durable as harder gems like diamond or ruby and sapphire.

A fun piece of lore: Morganite was named to honor American financier and gem enthusiast J. P. Morgan (1837–1913). George Kunz, then Tiffany’s colored stone specialist and a noted gem scholar, proposed the name in 1910 after examining early samples of the beautiful pink beryl from Madagascar.

A 5.94 ct morganite is the star of this ring set in 14K rose gold with 0.70 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds.

A 5.94 ct morganite is the star of this ring set in 14K rose gold with 0.70 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where does morganite come from?

It takes the skilled hands of a lapidary to turn a piece of morganite rough into a gem fit for an engagement ring.

It takes the skilled hands of a lapidary to turn a piece of morganite rough into a gem fit for a morganite engagement ring. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Dave Wilber

Most of the morganite on the market today comes from Minas Gerais, Brazil. Minas Gerais is a gemological treasure chest: emerald, aquamarine, tourmaline, alexandrite, amethyst and topaz are some of the other gems found there.

Afghanistan, Pakistan, Mozambique, Namibia and the United States are also sources of morganite, but for the most part, production is minor and inconsistent. While it is no longer a major producer today, the original Madagascar deposit still sets the standard for the best material.

Morganite qualities to look for

It’s easy to fall in love with this charming morganite engagement ring. It features a 1.69 ct morganite and 0.08 carats of diamonds decorating the shank.

It’s easy to fall in love with this charming morganite engagement ring. It features a 1.69 ct morganite and 0.08 carats of diamonds decorating the shank. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

As you shop for a morganite engagement ring, keep in mind these tips for picking the perfect gem.

Color: The most prized morganite colors are strong pink, often the result of heat treatment. Untreated material, especially from Brazil, may be a salmon-like orangy pink. Morganite’s color is often pale, increasing in intensity with the size of the stone. Darker colors are usually more desired and thus cost more.

Morganite is almost always heat treated to improve its pink color. Heat drives off the yellow or orange tinge, leaving a purer and more attractive pink. The treatment is not detectable, and the resulting color is stable and won’t fade unless exposed to temperatures over 400°C.

This 10 ct oval morganite makes quite a fashion statement set horizontally in the trendy east-to-west style. The 18K rose gold setting includes four diamond accents in the prongs.

Morganite is often found in large sizes and cut into a variety of shapes. This 10 ct oval morganite makes quite a fashion statement set horizontally in the trendy east-to-west style. The 18K rose gold setting includes four diamond accents in the prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Clarity: Faceted morganite often does not have eye-visible inclusions, though they are more likely to be present in larger sizes. Stones with numerous eye-visible inclusions are usually carved or cut as cabochons. Liquid inclusions (liquid trapped in what were once voids in the gem) and fractures are two types of internal features that might be visible to the naked eye.  Liquid inclusions tend to have irregular shapes. A fracture looks like a bright, shiny flat surface. It’s worth mentioning again that faceted morganite usually does not have eye-visible inclusions.

Cut: The shape of a morganite gem should have minimal effect on its beauty. Like a diamond, a morganite engagement ring can be attractive as a round brilliant, emerald cut, marquise or oval. Light-color material might be cut slightly deep to help intensify the color. Morganite is a popular material for unique fantasy cuts and carvings.

Carat weight: Although available (and affordable) in large stones, morganite is often cut in calibrated sizes to fit common jewelry mountings.

A solitaire is said to symbolize love, commitment and fidelity. This round morganite solitare set in rose gold brings the power of pink to a traditional engagement ring style.

A solitaire is said to symbolize love, commitment and fidelity. This round morganite solitaire set in rose gold brings the power of pink to a traditional engagement ring style. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Pear shaped stones help give fingers a longer, slimmer look, and this 5.76 ct morganite ring is sure to flatter almost any hand. The delicate halo of diamonds totaling 0.58 carats adds to its feminine feel.

Pear shaped stones help give fingers a longer, slimmer look, and this 5.76 ct morganite ring is sure to flatter almost any hand. The delicate halo of diamonds totaling 0.58 carats adds to its feminine feel. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Adding diamonds to a morganite engagement ring

A romantic pairing: A 6.40 ct morganite with 2.45 carats of diamonds that form a halo and cascade down the shank as an enchanting counterpoint.

A romantic pairing: A 6.40 ct morganite with 2.45 carats of diamonds that form a halo and cascade down the shank as an enchanting counterpoint. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Now that you know what to look for when picking a beautiful morganite gemstone for your engagement ring, you might want to add a bit of drama to it. Morganite and diamonds form an elegant combination. The brilliance of the diamonds creates a dramatic contrast to the subtle blush of the morganite. Diamonds in a halo setting or flanking morganite as side stones are two can’t-fail choices. Here are a few things to keep in mind when selecting diamonds for your morganite engagement ring:

  • The diamonds will probably reflect some of the pink of the morganite, so they may end up with a pinkish appearance.
  • Diamonds that have a hint of yellow will probably complement the morganite, making for a softer look.
  • Diamonds that are more colorless will contrast with the morganite, making for a bolder look.
Placing a diamond on either side of the central gem is another way to add diamonds to a morganite engagement ring. Here, an 8.68 ct morganite is framed by two pear shaped diamonds weighing a total of 0.40 carats.

Placing a diamond on either side of the central gem is another way to add diamonds to a morganite engagement ring. Here, an 8.68 ct morganite is framed by two pear shaped diamonds weighing a total of 0.40 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Setting ideas for morganite engagement rings

Morganite works well in virtually all popular engagement ring setting styles. It’s stately enough to hold its own as a solitaire. It looks glorious with a halo (a ring of smaller diamonds placed around the center stone). And it is artfully framed and protected in a bezel setting (a jewelry setting style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place).

Since morganite is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is more vulnerable to chipping and breakage than a harder gem like a diamond. Because of this, you’ll want to put it in a setting that affords more protection. A bezel setting is an excellent choice, as the metal surrounding the morganite protects the gem from damage. Four- and six-prong settings are also common, but they offer less protection and aren’t an ideal choice for physically active individuals. All options considered, a bezel setting is the safest choice.

6.19 ct morganite surrounded by 18K rose gold and 0.22 carats of diamonds.

An antique frame cradling a magical mirror is a poetic description for this 6.19 ct morganite surrounded by 18K rose gold and 0.22 carats of diamonds. The rose gold setting not only protects the gemstone, but is also reflected in it, adding even more depth to the morganite’s pink hue. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you’re looking for an engagement ring setting to complement morganite, consider the metal color and the overall look you’re trying to achieve. For a soft color palette, a rose gold band and prongs will enhance the gem’s pink hues, while yellow gold will bring out any yellow in the stone. Or you can opt to go bolder, by using white metal prongs or band (or both) to contrast with the morganite.

Consider the metal when choosing a setting for your morganite ring. You can use yellow gold to your advantage to bring out the yellow hues in some morganite, as in this morganite and diamond ring.

Consider the metal when choosing a setting for your morganite ring. You can use yellow gold to your advantage to bring out the yellow hues in some morganite, as in this morganite and diamond ring. Courtesy: Denise James

Caring for and cleaning a morganite engagement ring

Warm, soapy water is always a safe cleaning method for a morganite engagement ring. Cleaning by ultrasonic and steam cleaners is also usually safe, unless the stone has liquid inclusions or fractures. Rarely, morganite is fracture filled – a glass-like substance is used to fill a fracture to make it less visible and to improve the stone’s apparent clarity. These stones should only be cleaned with warm, soapy water.

A morganite engagement ring can be damaged by some acids, including those found in certain cleaning products. Morganite is safe to wear during most everyday activities. However, like all other gemstones, morganite can be damaged, so we recommend that you remove your ring before gardening, cleaning, playing sports or participating in other strenuous activities.

This 12.18 ct pear shaped morganite is framed by a halo of 1.06 carats of pavé diamonds.

This 12.18 ct pear shaped morganite is framed by a halo of 1.06 carats of pavé diamonds. The white metal setting creates a strong contrast with the gem’s pink hue, making the morganite the star of the show. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Morganite in an engagement ring is sweet, romantic and trendy. It is also a charming choice – an eye-pleasing look that evokes the splendor of love.

Loretta Castoro’s “Love Doves” ring has a 2 ct round morganite accented with diamonds in the shank.

Ready for romance? Loretta Castoro’s “Love Doves” ring has a 2 ct round morganite accented with diamonds in the shank. Courtesy: Loretta Castoro Signature Collection

Now that you’re well into your search for a center stone, learn how to select flattering engagement ring styles.

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Diamond engagement ring designed by Sylvie.
How to Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring

Protect your diamond engagement ring from damage or loss by making the right buying decision and then keeping it like new for the rest of your life. Here are some tips on how to safeguard your treasured possession.

1. Before You Buy, Learn About Diamond Durability

Diamonds are the hardest gemstones on earth – they rank 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness – but they can still suffer damage. Diamonds have clarity characteristics called blemishes and inclusions. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Inclusions are internal characteristics either totally enclosed within a diamond or extending into the diamond from its surface.

Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle, can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. (A girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating its upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts, and functioning as the diamond’s setting edge.) For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns. The size, number, location, relief and nature of the inclusions within a diamond are considered when its clarity grade is assigned. You should take into account the types of clarity characteristics before you purchase the stone.

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains essential clarity information about the diamond you’re considering. In addition to providing an objective assessment of the diamond’s color, cut and carat weight, the report also contains your diamond’s clarity grade along with a map of your diamond’s clarity characteristics. Called a plotting diagram, the color-coded map shows the types of inclusions and blemishes the diamond has and their precise locations. Learn more about the plotting diagram.

Princess cut diamond with V-shaped prongs.

Since the corners on a princess cut diamond are vulnerable to chipping, select an engagement ring setting with V-shaped prongs to protect them. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

2. Know Which Diamond Shapes and Cuts Will Require Special Care

Some diamond shapes and cuts are more vulnerable to chipping than others because they have points or sharp corners. The rectangular or square shaped princess cut is one example. The marquise, pear and heart shapes are others. This is not to say you shouldn’t buy one of these shapes; just make sure your diamond is in a setting that protects areas that are more susceptible to chipping. Very thin girdles, sometimes called knife-edge girdles, also pose a greater risk of damage, regardless of the diamond shape.

Diamonds have cleavage, which is the tendency of certain gems and minerals to break or split somewhat easily along crystallographic planes due to their atomic structure. Diamonds are tougher in the directions where the atoms are bonded tightly together, and less tough where they’re not so tightly bonded. This means that diamonds are more likely to be damaged on or near a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane. Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

3. Protect Your Diamond by Choosing a Secure Setting

A diamond in an engagement ring is often held in its mounting by prongs. A prong is a narrow metal support, typically used in groups of four to six. When it comes to protecting your diamond, a six-prong setting can offer more protection than a four-prong setting. In the event a prong breaks, a six-prong setting is more likely to hold the diamond in place. The two additional prongs might also provide a little extra protection for the girdle during daily wear. There are pros and cons to using four or six prongs.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting.

This 1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting. If one prong breaks, the other five will probably hold the stone in its place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Another choice that offers considerable protection is the bezel setting – a style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place. A bezel setting helps prevent the center stone from falling out, and it protects the girdle against bumps, bangs and other accidents. Partial bezels and V-shaped prongs also protect vulnerable points and corners of diamonds.

0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected

The 0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

 

A tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting.

Although striking and unusual, a tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond Company

4. Protect Your Diamond with a Laser Inscription

Diamonds graded by GIA often have their grading report numbers microscopically inscribed on their girdles. This laser inscription is automatically applied to all diamonds that come with either a GIA Diamond Dossier or Diamond FocusTM report. It’s an optional, low-cost additional service for diamonds with GIA Diamond Grading Reports.

A laser inscription serves as a secure identifying feature, which links the diamond to its specific report data. Viewable under 10× magnification with a simple jeweler’s loupe, the inscribed report number can be matched to the diamond’s physical report or entered into GIA Report Check, GIA’s online database containing the diamond’s grading details. Should your diamond be stolen and later recovered, a laser inscription may help the police identify it.

By the way, you’re not limited to inscribing a report number – you can also inscribe a short message, a special date or other meaningful symbol.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind. Photo: Al Gilbertson/GIA

5. After You Buy, Get Your Diamond Appraised and Insured

The emotional value of your engagement ring is priceless, but it does have a monetary value. That’s why insuring it is a smart thing to do. Most homeowner’s and renter’s insurance policies offer relatively inexpensive coverage for jewelry theft. Make sure your policy also covers damage and loss. Be sure to read it carefully.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion. Courtesy: Sylvie

Many insurance companies will require an appraisal in order to determine your diamond engagement ring’s replacement value. An appraisal is an evaluation of diamonds or other jewelry, usually for insurance or estate purposes. Appraisals normally provide a detailed description of the pieces being appraised, including the exact measurements of the important gemstones, together with (for diamonds) their color and clarity grades, plots showing the location of inclusions or blemishes, and information on the properties and make. They then state an estimated value.

You can find a local appraiser by consulting a list of professional appraisal associations. Many of these organizations require that their appraisers have a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma in addition to supplemental appraisal training. They also expect members to uphold the highest ethical and professional standards.

1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage.

You’ll want to insure this 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

6. Protect Your Diamond by Taking It Off

Diamond engagement rings are meant for a lifetime of daily wear, but they’re not indestructible. Prongs can shift and loosen over time. Exercise, gardening, catching on clothing and accidental bangs all may take their toll.

Even washing the dishes with an engagement ring on isn’t ideal (how many stories have you read about a ring going down a drain?). Wearing it in cold weather can be risky; fingers shrink and rings can slide around. A good way to protect your diamond is to remove your engagement ring before these kinds of activities.

You’ve heard that only a diamond can scratch a diamond? Well, storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can cause chips and other damage as well as scratches. One solution is to store your diamond ring or other jewels individually in padded boxes or soft pouches. Make sure you place only one piece of jewelry in each bag or box.

1.01 ct pear shaped diamond with surrounding melee

To protect the 1.01 ct pear shaped diamond and surrounding melee, be sure to take the ring off before gardening or performing other risky activities. To avoid inadvertently scratching or chipping the stones, store the ring individually in a box or soft bag. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring with Regular Check-Ups

It’s a good idea to get the prongs in your engagement ring checked every six months for potential damage. If this seems too frequent for you, use your yearly wedding anniversary as a convenient reminder to get the prongs checked. Many insurance companies also require that the ring receive regular check-ups. Contact your carrier to find its requirements.

Tightening prongs is a routine task for a bench jeweler. You can check if a prong is loose by seeing if the stone moves when you gently push it (if it moves, it’s loose). Gaps between the diamond and the setting are another warning sign. Look at the ring with a 10× loupe to help see such gaps and spot damaged prongs.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

8. Keep Your Diamond Engagement Ring Clean

Dirt won’t break or chip your diamond, but it will dull its appearance. You can clean your diamond by using a lint-free cloth or washing it with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Don’t use abrasive household cleaners, or steam cleaners. Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for untreated diamonds; however, treated diamonds can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners. You can briefly dip your diamond in a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. It’s also a good idea to have your ring periodically cleaned by a professional jeweler. If you follow the check-up advice above, your diamond engagement ring will retain its sparkle for a lifetime.

Now that you know how to protect your diamond, it’s time to debunk eight common diamond engagement ring myths.

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Rings of the Victorian era were rich in symbolism and alluring imagery.
Victorian Style Engagement Rings: How to Get the Look

Victorian style engagement rings evoke a romantic past. Flowers, hearts and acrostic messages are just a few of the motifs you can use to create a symbol of your love. Learn more about this captivating engagement ring style.

The Victorian era is named after Queen Victoria (1819–1901), who ruled Great Britain for almost 64 years, from June 20, 1837 until her death on May 1, 1901. For decades, the beloved monarch’s tastes influenced art, style and customs. A wreath of fragrant orange blossoms that she wore on her wedding day became the fashion of the time for British brides. The jewelry that she wore, which was featured in newspapers, was widely copied.

A young Queen Victoria is adorned with jewels and her royal regalia in this portrait by Alexander Melville from 1845.

A young Queen Victoria is adorned with jewels and her royal regalia in this portrait by Alexander Melville from 1845. Courtesy: www.bildindex.de, obj 13850883, via Wikimedia Commons

Queen Victoria’s marriage to Prince Albert lasted a brief 21 years. Their love was celebrated and idolized by an admiring public. After Albert’s untimely death from typhoid in 1861, Queen Victoria spent the rest of her life in mourning, but her love for Albert became the stuff of legend.

Queen Victoria’s jewelry collection included a serpent bracelet she wore to symbolize “the wisdom of the serpent” that she sought as the head of state, reset treasures from the Crown Jewels, a heart-shaped locket with strands of Prince Albert’s hair (worn after his passing), and a sapphire and diamond diadem. Particularly beloved were the jewels Albert gave her, often of his own design. His wedding gift was a sapphire and diamond brooch, which she wore proudly in her bridal portrait. Over the years that followed, in honor of the floral tiara she wore at her wedding, he gave her several pieces in the orange blossom theme.

Mourning jewelry, which she wore after Albert’s death, became the style across England. In addition to the black enamel, jet and onyx of mourning jewelry, diamonds continued to play an important part in Queen Victoria’s life. As a widow, she dressed herself in black silk and diamonds.

During Queen Victoria’s long reign, a number of revolutionary inventions reshaped society: anesthesia, the telegraph, the telephone, automobiles, bicycles, the electric bulb and railways. It was a time of comparative peace and prosperity for a growing middle class who could afford to purchase jewelry. In the late 1860s, the discovery of large quantities of diamonds in South Africa put a gem that was once reserved to the aristocracy and wealthy within the reach of many.

As Queen Victoria reigned for more than six decades, the period is rich in jewelry styles. Here are some motifs you can use in your one-of-a-kind Victorian style engagement ring.

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Secret Messages

Victorians loved acrostic jewelry – using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word. For example, the word “Regard” was spelled by using a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. Regard, Adore, Dear and Dearest were popular acrostic terms, as were birthday wishes. Acrostic jewelry was meant to send private messages known only to one’s beloved. That makes it perfect for your personally-designed custom Victorian style engagement ring or wedding band.

Ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond spell “Regard” in this Victorian-era (circa 1870) acrostic engagement ring.

Ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond spell “Regard” in this Victorian-era (circa 1870) acrostic engagement ring. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle, doyledoyle.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Love and the Serpent

The snake has been used as a symbol for millennia. Today the snake may have negative associations for many; however, during the Victorian era, the snake represented love, eternity and wisdom. Adding a snake motif to your custom Victorian style engagement ring and wedding band could be an edgy and eye-catching choice.

Two snakes are locked in an embrace in this Victorian-era (circa 1860) ring.

Two snakes are locked in an embrace in this Victorian-era (circa 1860) ring. An old European cut diamond and a ruby crown the heads of the snakes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Edgy and Victorian-inspired, this platinum serpent style ring with heart shaped diamonds and melee borrows two signature design motifs from the period.

Edgy and Victorian-inspired, this platinum serpent style ring with heart shaped diamonds and melee borrows two signature design motifs from the period. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Flower Power

Victorians loved horticulture, built greenhouses to grow exotic plants and devoured books on the subject. They felt specific flowers had specific meanings: Tulips meant passion, bluebells represented kindness, myrtle stood for good luck and love in marriage, red roses symbolized love, and purple violets conveyed “thoughts occupied with love.” As a result, the giving of flowers often conveyed emotions that could not be spoken out loud. Now that you know the meaning of these blooms, you can add the appropriate flower or even a bouquet of flowers to your Victorian style engagement ring.

Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light.

A dramatic declaration of love is told in gems: Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

This modern engagement ring with its floral inspired design evokes the romantic Victorian period.

This modern engagement ring with its floral inspired design evokes the romantic Victorian period. Courtesy: Erika Winters Fine Jewelry, erikawinters.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: The Eternal Diamond

By the latter half of the 19th century, the discovery of diamonds in South Africa had put the dream of a diamond engagement ring within reach of the rising middle class. A gem that was once extremely rare was now being mined in sufficient quantity to fulfill the demands of a broad range of people.

The old mine cut, an early cushion-shaped brilliant cut with many proportion variations, was often used in jewelry during the early and mid-Victorian periods. It has 58 facets like most round brilliants, but it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. Other characteristics include short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places. As a result, an old mine cut diamond has a very distinctive look. Advances in diamond-cutting technology in the late 1800s allowed cutters to create round girdles. This led to the old European cut, precursor to today’s round brilliant cut, gaining popularity during the late Victorian period.

An old mine cut diamond has a distinctive look – especially compared to a round brilliant.

An old mine cut diamond has a distinctive look – especially compared to a round brilliant. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

For centuries a plain gold band was a common choice for an engagement ring. By the Middle Ages, though, gem-set “betrothal rings” had become fashionable. In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond betrothal ring, one of the earliest on record. To bring more light (and, thus, brilliance and sparkle) to the faceted diamonds that were becoming increasingly popular, the Tiffany Setting (a six-prong setting) was introduced in 1886. A diamond solitaire is still an extremely popular choice for an engagement ring, and the use of an old mine (or similar) cut diamond will give your custom engagement ring the essence of Victorian style.

Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond.

The diamond solitaire ring has become a universal symbol of love. It has a timeless quality, as evidenced by this Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond. Courtesy: TheRealReal.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: A Heart for Your Sweetheart

The image of a heart has long represented love, and it especially appealed to Victorians, who had a soft spot for things sentimental. Then as now, the motif is a popular means of expressing affection. A heart-shaped diamond – or any gemstone – is an easy way to get the look in your Victorian style engagement ring. Two pear-shaped stones coming together in a single heart send the same message in a very clever fashion.

Two hearts beat as one in this Victorian-era ring, which features two stunning pear shapes, a 0.84 ct diamond and a 1.28 ct ruby.

Two hearts beat as one in this Victorian-era ring, which features two stunning pear shapes, a 0.84 ct diamond and a 1.28 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This yellow diamond heart shaped ring might inspire your own design of a Victorian style engagement ring.

Looking for design inspiration for your Victorian style engagement ring? Take heart! This modern heart-shaped yellow diamond ring features a signature motif of the Victorian era. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Crossover Rings

A crossover ring wraps around the finger, with the ends of the band passing each other. The style was popular in the 1890s, and still remains so. It is also called a toi et moi ring (“you and me” in French). The two stones are said to symbolize the intertwining of two lives. Such a romantic notion would be a lovely design choice for your Victorian style engagement ring.

This Victorian-era (circa 1885) crossover ring, set with a sapphire and an old European cut diamond, celebrates two lives joined together in marriage.

This Victorian-era (circa 1885) crossover ring, set with a sapphire and an old European cut diamond, celebrates two lives joined together in marriage. Courtesy: Treasurly by Dima

There’s no shortage of delightful style motifs from the Victorian era that you can use to design a custom engagement ring. Before you start sketching, take a few minutes to learn the 4Cs of diamond quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Knowing these will help you choose the perfect diamond for your beautiful Victorian style engagement ring.

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Art Nouveau engagement rings are beautiful but rare.
Art Nouveau Engagement Rings: How to Get the Style

Art Nouveau engagement rings are exquisitely beautiful, but rare. You can achieve the romance of Art Nouveau style in your own ring by using design elements from the period, like the whiplash line, enamel and colored gems. Here’s how. (more…)

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A 1.10 carat marquise yellow diamond engagement ring
Eight Common Diamond Engagement Ring Myths —Demystified

There’s no shortage of engagement ring myths. Here are some of the more common ones: Bigger diamonds always look better than smaller ones. Round brilliants are the best. Diamonds are unbreakable. True? False? We investigate these myths and deliver the facts.

In this blog, we examine the following engagement ring myths:

A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better
Any Diamond Will Sparkle
I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant
Diamonds Can’t Break
Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break
I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail
Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad
A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

Myth #1: A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better

A common myth about engagement rings is that a bigger diamond has a better face-up appearance than a smaller one. But just because a diamond is big doesn’t mean it will have more brightness, fire and scintillation. A small diamond can have mesmerizing sparkle, while a large diamond can look dull. How a diamond performs under light is a function of its cut, not its carat weight. So, debunking one of the biggest myths about engagement rings, a bigger diamond is not necessarily a better one.

Myth #2: Any Diamond Will Sparkle

A common misconception about diamond engagement rings is that every diamond sparkles. A diamond’s cut – how its facets interact with light – creates its sparkle. Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver the magnificent return of light. A diamond with a poor cut will have little to no sparkle.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate. From left to right, they received cut grades of: Poor, Good and Excellent. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

You can turn to a GIA Diamond Grading Report, a GIA Diamond Origin Report or GIA Diamond Dossier for an objective evaluation of the cut of a round brilliant diamond. A GIA cut grade of Good or better will deliver the sparkle you’re expecting.

It’s worth mentioning that dirt is the enemy of sparkle. Just as a dirty mirror will reflect poorly, so will diamond facets that have skin oils, lotion and other substances on them. Keeping your diamond clean is key to keeping it sparkling.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

What a difference a cleaning makes.

What a difference a cleaning makes. Oils have been removed from the same diamond, and it now has a scintillating sparkle. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

The takeaway from all of this: If you want a diamond that sparkles, make sure it is cut well; if it is a round brilliant, look for one with a cut grade of Good or better on its GIA Diamond Grading Report. Once it is yours, keep it clean. This way, the engagement ring will be noticed and admired.

Myth #3: I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant

A round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape and cut for engagement rings. About half of all brides wear one. And for good reason: It’s beautiful, appealing and can have spectacular brightness, fire and scintillation.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

But do you need to buy a round brilliant? Consider that about half of all brides wear engagement rings set with diamond shapes other than round brilliants. These fancy shapes can be just as beautiful and deserve your consideration. And some might even cost less per carat than a round brilliant. Some of the more popular fancy shape diamonds include: the princess cut, marquise, cushion cut and emerald cut. Ovals are currently popular and can have bewitching sparkle. So, the myth that only a round brilliant diamond makes for a beautiful engagement ring is untrue!  Other diamond shapes are just as popular, and just as beautiful. 

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant.

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant. Square or rectangular in shape, the princess cut also looks a bit different, like this 1.03 ct beauty in a four-prong setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone.

Supposedly named after the Marquise de Pompadour because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth, the marquise diamond is rich in beauty and lore. This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty.

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty. Its appeal is easy to see in this engagement ring, which features a 7.82 ct cushion cut center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes.

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone.

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone. Photo: GIA

Myth #4: Diamonds Can’t Break

Diamond is the hardest gem material on earth and is impervious to virtually all acids. It can also withstand higher temperatures than most gemstones. But if a diamond cutter can purposely cleave (split) a diamond by giving it a sharp blow in the right direction, you can achieve the same result if you accidentally hit it hard enough in the right place.

Cleavage planes in diamond occur because carbon atoms parallel to these planes are more tightly bonded (that is, tougher) than the atoms between the planes. A cleavage plane is the weakest direction in the molecular arrangement of a diamond crystal, and it always parallels one of the crystal’s triangular faces. If a diamond is hit hard along one of these planes, it can chip or fracture.

Chips typically occur when the girdle edge or an exposed point, like the tip of a pear shape or marquise, strikes something hard. Diamonds being unbreakable is simply a myth. Storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can also cause chips, scratches or other damage. Certain diamond cuts with pointed corners, like the princess cut, are particularly vulnerable and are often set with V-shaped prongs positioned over the corners to protect them from chipping.

This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet.

Diamonds are known for their hardness – their ability to resist scratches and abrasions. But contrary to some diamond engagement ring myths, diamonds are not impervious to damage, since their hardness varies depending on the crystal direction. This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet. Photo: GIA

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond.

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond. Illustration modified from V. C. Venkatesh and S. Izman, Precision Engineering, 2007, p. 54.

Myth #5: Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break

Of all the diamond engagement ring myths covered here, there is some truth to this one.  Inclusions are clarity characteristics that lie within a diamond. Inclusions in themselves won’t necessarily cause a diamond to break. But if they’re located on or near a cleavage plane or another vulnerable area like a girdle or culet, they could make the diamond more prone to chipping.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle. Photo: GIA

Myth #6: I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail

This is one of those engagement ring myths that really demands your due diligence and some research. It’s tempting to think that you’ll get a better price buying a diamond from “a friend of a friend,” through an online auction, or directly from a wholesaler or dealer. After all, you think, these sellers have lower overhead, so they should also have a lower markup — with these savings passed along to you. You may be right. However, it pays to comparison shop, taking into account all the costs associated with purchasing an engagement ring.

Whether you decide to buy your diamond from a traditional brick and mortar retailer or through another channel, be sure to look for some basic consumer protections: a minimum 30-day period for refunds or exchanges, quality guarantees, and diamonds accompanied by grading reports from a reputable lab. Any seller failing to provide these basic services may be offering a deal that’s too good to be true.

Buying from a traditional retailer may offer some additional advantages. A jeweler’s expertise is invaluable in helping you select both the diamond and the right setting for it. And many retailers offer discounted diamond-and-ring packages. Many also offer cleaning, repair and maintenance as long as you own the ring, as well as insurance and even trade-in programs should you want to up-grade your diamond in the future. In the end, you may find that the savings offered by other types of sellers are negated by the package discount and additional services offered by a retailer.

All this is to say that you have more options than ever when it comes to buying a diamond. Just be careful and smart, as you would with any important purchase. 

Myth #7: Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad

This is one of the more common engagement ring myths – here are the facts: Diamond fluorescence is neither good nor bad. It is a naturally occurring characteristic that a diamond may possess. Some people like the blue (or rarely another color) glow that some diamonds emit when exposed to long-way ultraviolet (UV) light such as that from the sun and fluorescent lamps. Whether you choose a diamond with fluorescence is a matter of personal preference.

Fluorescence is common: Between 25% and 35% of the diamonds on the market exhibit some degree of fluorescence, which GIA grading reports describe as None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. It’s worth noting that fluorescence is not considered a quality factor like the 4Cs (color, clarity, cut and carat weight). The extent of a diamond’s fluorescence is included in a grading report as additional information to help in identifying that particular diamond.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays. Half the necklace and one earring in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave ultraviolet lamp (right). Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt. Courtesy: Harry Winston, Inc., New York

You may have heard the myth about engagement rings that the fluorescence affects a diamond’s color grade. Not true. GIA color grades diamonds under tightly controlled lighting conditions designed to eliminate any effect from fluorescence. So it has no impact on the color grade assigned. However, the strength of a diamond’s fluorescence can influence your perception of the diamond’s color when viewed with certain types of lighting. For example, in bright sunshine some diamonds with a Medium to Strong blue fluorescence may appear more colorless. In rare cases, diamonds with Very Strong fluorescence may have a hazy or oily appearance; less than 0.2% of fluorescent diamonds exhibit this effect.

GIA’s research discovered that for the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, blue fluorescence had no systematic effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance. Even experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.

Myth #8: A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

One of the older engagement ring myths, this one dates back to the 1950s. It’s been debunked before, but it’s worth negating again. The fact is, there is no hard and fast rule on how much you should spend on a diamond engagement ring. You need to determine what you can afford, set a budget and stick to it. By learning a little bit about diamonds, including the 4Cs of diamond quality and doing some comparison shopping, you’ll be able to choose a diamond of the best quality for your budget. Remember, at the end of the day the ultimate value of a diamond isn’t what it costs, but the love that goes into giving it.

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© 2002 – 2024 Gemological Institute of America Inc. GIA is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization.
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Use of this site signifies your agreement to its terms of use.
© 2002 – 2024 Gemological Institute of America Inc.
GIA is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization.
All rights reserved.