Diamond Shape Archives

Guide to Diamond Shapes for Engagement Rings

March 21, 2018

There are so many diamond shapes to choose from when shopping for an engagement ring: round, square, marquise and more. Here’s a guide to what makes each shape special to help you pick the perfect diamond shape for your engagement ring.

First, it’s important to know the difference between a diamond’s shape and its cut. It is common in the diamond marketplace to refer to diamond engagement ring shapes as “cuts.” Shape describes a diamond’s basic outline when viewed face up (round, square, oval, etc.). Cut, or cutting style, refers to how the diamond’s facets are arranged. For example, the most common cutting style for diamond shapes is the brilliant cut with an arrangement of 57 or 58 facets designed to maximize sparkle. So when you find that perfect emerald cut diamond engagement ring, know that what you have is actually a square or rectangular shaped diamond engagement ring.

Some diamonds, most commonly square or rectangular shapes, are step cut. Emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds are examples. The step cut has concentric rows of facets on the crown and pavilion for a more elegant look. However, not all square or rectangular diamonds are step cut; many are brilliant cut, like the radiant and princess cut diamond.

All diamond shapes other than round are called fancy shapes. Read on to learn more about these diamond shapes:

Round diamond shapes
Rectangular diamond shapes
Square diamond shapes
Marquise diamond shapes
Oval diamond shapes
Pear diamond shapes
Heart diamond shapes

A 1.00 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring accented by 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank.

A modern classic: This round diamond shape is brilliant cut to deliver the signature light show we’ve come to associate with diamonds. In this engagement ring, a 1 carat (ct) round center stone is given a boost of additional sparkle by the 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Round diamond shapes

What’s great about round diamond shapes

Round is the most popular of the diamond engagement ring shapes, and it holds this title because the round brilliant cut is designed to produce maximum brightness, fire and sparkle in a colorless diamond. The modern round brilliant cut diamond has a round girdle outline, 56 symmetrically placed triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table facet and an optional culet facet, for a total of 57 or 58 facets.

A vintage engagement ring featuring a 3.03 carat old European cut diamond and a 3.01 carat ruby.

Antique or modern? It’s hard to tell with this delicious pairing of an old European cut diamond weighing 3.03 ct and a 3.01 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Lapidaries have been cutting round diamonds for centuries, but it wasn’t until the invention of the bruting machine in the early 1870s that a round diamond could be more easily made with a pleasing, symmetrical outline. The first of these was the old European cut diamond, a precursor to the modern round brilliant cut but with a higher crown and greater total depth than its modern counterpart. The old European cut is still a popular choice for brides wanting an antique look.

A 5.40 carat old European cut diamond engagement ring.

Old World charm abounds in this 5.40 ct old European cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem.com

What to look for in round diamond shapes

Symmetry is key when shopping for a round diamond to feature in your engagement ring. And if the diamond is cut as a round brilliant, as most are, pay attention to its cut quality, or how well it interacts with light. Look for brightness (often called brilliance) – the internal and external reflections of white light. Fire – the flashes of color seen as you rock the diamond under the store’s spotlights. Sparkle – spots of light that flash when the diamond moves. And scintillation – a combination of sparkle and balanced patterns of bright and dark areas. Well-cut round diamonds are brighter with more fire and scintillation than poorly cut ones, even if they’re of equivalent color, clarity and carat weight.

A 1.36 carat round brilliant cut diamond cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee.

A 1.36 ct round brilliant cut diamond is cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Avoid diamonds with extremely thin or “knife-edge” girdles or with inclusions near the girdle, which make them more vulnerable to damage.

To be certain of the quality of the cut on your round brilliant diamond, buy one with a GIA diamond grading report, which will provide an objective assessment. Look for a cut grade of Excellent or Very Good.

A modern diamond engagement ring featuring three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats set in platinum.

The emerald cut diamond is a long-standing favorite engagement ring shape. Renowned for its sophistication, its streamlined rectangular shape is often associated with the Art Deco period. This modern platinum ring features three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Rectangular diamond shapes

What’s great about rectangular diamond shapes

Rectangular diamond shapes have a long history and a reputation for classic elegance in an engagement ring. The elongated shape can make a bride’s fingers look longer and more slender. Three of the most common rectangular diamond shapes are actually modified rectangles: the emerald cut, cushion cut and radiant cut.

Emerald cut: With its crisp, sophisticated lines, the emerald cut is the most popular of the step-cut diamonds. Its four longer sides have beveled corners with two, three or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion. An emerald cut diamond engagement ring is a perennial favorite with the stylish elite.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond engagement ring featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond is the star in this setting featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion cut: Adorning the fingers of brides for centuries, the cushion cut diamond has curved sides and rounded corners. It typically has a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and large culet facet. Since the cushion cut retains more color face up than a brilliant cut, a cushion cut is well suited to colored diamonds. A cushion cut diamond will be a hit with a bride who favors an antique style for her engagement ring.

A 4.00 carat radiant cut diamond engagement ring wrapped with two diamond halos.

A bride-to-be would happily say “I will” as she puts on this 4.00 ct radiant cut diamond wrapped by two diamond halos. Courtesy: Uneek

Radiant cut: One of the newest rectangular shaped diamonds is the radiant cut, a modified brilliant cut introduced in 1977. It boasts the fire of a round brilliant cut diamond in a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners.

What to look for in rectangular diamond shapes

As with all diamond shapes, symmetry is important for rectangular diamonds. Facets on opposite sides should be parallel to one another, corners should be cropped to identical size and the culet should be well centered.

The cushion cut diamond is a shape that is both classic and contemporary. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

Emerald cuts do not hide inclusions as well as brilliant cuts due to their long rectangular facets, so high clarity is important. Emerald cuts are also less scintillating due to the step cut style of faceting. Since lots of scintillation masks lower color grades, this type of facet pattern looks best on a diamond with higher colors on the GIA D-to-Z color scale. However, it can intensify color in a colored diamond.

For radiant cut diamonds, look for brightness, sparkle and scintillation, as you would for a round brilliant cut diamond. Clarity is less of a concern, as the modified brilliant cut faceting pattern can disguise inclusions that would be more visible in an emerald cut diamond.

A 5.89 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring.

An emerald cut diamond like this 5.89 ct beauty exudes elegance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Square diamond shapes

What’s great about square diamond shapes

Square diamond shapes in engagement rings are perfect for the woman with long, slender fingers who wants them to look shorter. They are also a statement of individuality for a bride who would appreciate a contemporary alternative to the classic round brilliant cut. Want a square shaped diamond in your engagement ring? In addition to the square versions of the cushion cut, emerald cut and radiant cut diamonds described above, consider the princess cut or Asscher cut.

A princess cut diamond engagement ring with two tapered baguettes.

A princess cut diamond shows off its sparkle in this engagement ring. Two tapered baguettes add a dash of drama. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Created in 1981, the princess cut diamond has a modified brilliant facet arrangement that gives it electrifying sparkle and scintillation. For a very different, but surprisingly modern look, the Asscher cut – first introduced in 1902 but since modified for greater brilliance – is similar to a square emerald cut but with larger step facets, a higher crown and a smaller table. Unlike the pointed corners of the princess cut, the corners of an Asscher cut are cropped, giving it the appearance of an octagon.

A 9.57 carat Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds.

Love the combination of a square shape and a modified brilliant cut? Then you’re sure to fall for a ring like this one – a 9.57 ct Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: Vivid Diamonds and Jewelry

What to look for in square diamond shapes

Again, look for good symmetry. Facets should match on either side of an imaginary line drawn down the middle of the stone. Look for a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table and other facets.

Fine princess and Asscher cut diamonds will not have a culet facet, which must be taken into consideration when mounting the stone. The culet is a safety facet that helps protect the point on the pavilion from chipping when the diamond is loose or if it is exposed in a setting. In addition, for the princess cut, it is important to choose a prong or bezel setting that protects the pointed corners.

As with emerald cut diamonds, the Asscher cut is most effective for diamonds that are colorless (D–F on the GIA color scale) or colored diamonds.

An 8.06 carat art deco diamond engagement ring, mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting.

A square-shaped Asscher cut diamond, circa 1935, in a ring by Cartier Paris reflects the by-gone grandeur of the Art Deco era. The 8.06 ct diamond is mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3.50 carat marquise shaped diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

This stunning 3.50 ct marquise shaped diamond is set in platinum with its delicate tips protected by V-shaped prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Marquise diamond shapes

What’s great about marquise diamond shapes

An attractive, elongated shape with a royal pedigree, the marquise (pronounced “mahr-keez”) was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of King Louis XV, as its outline resembled the shape of her mouth. Because of its shape, a marquise diamond ring will look larger face up than a round diamond of the same weight. A marquise diamond engagement ring can also make the finger appear longer and more slender.

What to look for in marquise diamond shapes

Several factors must be considered when choosing a marquise diamond for your engagement ring. You want a marquise that is neither too long (and thus may sacrifice brightness and pattern) or too short (“stubby”) and thus loses the benefit of length to your bride’s finger. The points at either end should be sharp.

A 0.91 carat marquise cut diamond engagement ring featuring two smaller marquise side stones.

Note the regal gentility of this 0.91 ct marquise diamond and the two smaller marquise side stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Symmetry is extremely important for marquise diamonds. Both sides (wings) should have the same amount of curve, and the facets on one side of that imaginary line down the center of the diamond should match exactly the shape and size of the facets on the other side. Since the tips of a marquise diamond are where it is most vulnerable, it is not unusual for them to have slightly greater girdle thickness. If the marquise diamond is prong set, choose V-shaped prongs for the tips. A well-cut marquise will typically display a minimal to no bow-tie pattern.

Learn how to spot the bow tie effect in diamonds.

A 5.31 carat oval diamond engagement ring set in 18K white gold.

Oval diamond shapes are making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why in this 18K white gold ring featuring 5.31 carats of diamonds from the Moval Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Oval diamond shapes

What’s great about oval diamond shapes

Although a shape that is many hundreds of years old, the oval diamond has gained popularity for engagement rings in recent years because of its elegance and the fire it shows when cut in the brilliant faceting style. In addition, with its greater surface area, an oval diamond may appear larger than a round brilliant diamond of the same weight (and, like rectangular and marquise diamonds, can help elongate shorter fingers). One advantage over other fancy shapes is that the rounded edges make it less prone to chipping.

What to look for in oval diamond shapes

Pay attention to proportion. Longer oval diamonds are preferred by some, but they are not practical to cut so tend to be harder to find.

As with other fancy diamond shapes, symmetry is essential to ensuring beauty in an oval diamond. Again, placing an imaginary line down the length of the diamond and then across its center, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Also look for a graceful outline and the size and nature of the bow-tie pattern. The bow tie on a well-cut oval diamond will be minimal or non-existent.

An oval cut diamond engagement ring featuring two diamond side stones.

The virtues of an oval cut diamond are easy to see in this engagement ring. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

A 5.76 carat pear shape morganite engagement ring set in 14K rose gold.

The pear shape is not just for diamonds. In fact, it’s a popular shape for the newest trend – morganite engagement rings. This 14K rose gold ring features a 5.76 ct morganite, surrounded by 0.58 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Pear diamond shapes

What’s great about pear diamond shapes

An irresistible blend of the marquise and round brilliant, the pear shaped diamond is a stylish choice among diamond shapes. Worn with the point toward the tip of the finger, its graceful, tapered shape can make the hand look slimmer and more elegant, perfect for an engagement ring.

An 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring.

Looking for inspiration? You don’t need to look further than this 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring. It sold at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction for $17.7 million on October 7, 2014. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to look for in pear diamond shapes

Pear shaped diamonds come in a variety of proportions, so there are many options for choosing one that flatters the finger. Look closely at the wings on either side of the point to make sure they are symmetrical, with the rounded end a good semi-circle. Since the point is the weakest feature, look for (and avoid) inclusions in that area. If prong setting the diamond, use a V-shaped prong on the point for greater protection.

As with oval and marquise diamond shapes, the bow-tie pattern on the table should be minimal, or better yet, non-existent.

A 1.39 carat fancy yellow pear shaped diamond engagement ring.

This 1.39 ct fancy yellow pear shaped diamond glows like a star in the evening sky. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A heart shaped diamond held in a pair of jeweler’s tweezers.

Like true love, a heart shaped diamond may be hard to find, since this shape works best with larger diamonds of good clarity. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Heart diamond shapes

What’s great about heart diamond shapes

The heart shaped diamond is the essence of romance. It is also a very flattering style for larger fingers.

What to look for in heart diamond shapes

There are good reasons why this is one of the rarest of diamond shapes for engagement rings. A well-shaped heart requires a large diamond, at least one-half carat. In addition, inclusions tend to be more prominent in this shape, so you want a diamond that has good clarity. Symmetry is also key: The well-rounded lobes should match in size and shape, as well as faceting style, and the cleft between them (as well as the point) should be well defined.

Ready to shop for your favorite diamond shape engagement ring? Follow the links for more tips and inspiration:

Round Shaped Engagement Rings
Emerald Cut Engagement Rings
Radiant Cut Engagement Rings
Cushion Cut Engagement Rings
Princess Cut Engagement Rings
Marquise Shaped Engagement Rings
Pear Shaped Engagement Rings
Oval Shaped Engagement Rings
Heart Shaped Engagement Rings

Pear Shaped Diamond: Tips for Picking the Perfect One

March 13, 2018

With its graceful, tapered outline, a pear shaped diamond is an elegant and flattering choice for an engagement ring. Here are the essentials for selecting the perfect pear shape.

Learn the anatomy of a pear shaped diamond
Look for symmetry in a pear shaped diamond
The ideal length-to-width ratio is the one you prefer
Check culet placement and position of inclusions
Make sure the table is centered on a pear shaped diamond
Avoid the bow-tie on a pear shaped diamond
Choose a setting that protects the point of a pear shaped diamond
Point up or down? You decide how to wear a pear shaped diamond

1. Learn the anatomy of a pear shaped diamond

Jewelers consider the pear shaped diamond a “fancy shape,” meaning it’s a shape other than round. Reminiscent of a tear drop, a pear shaped diamond blends the best of the round and marquise diamond shapes.

Since the parts of a pear shaped diamond contribute to its beauty, you should get to know them. Then you can shop for a pear shaped diamond engagement ring with a discerning eye.

Illustration showing the parts of a pear shaped diamond.

You’ll want to be able to name the parts of a pear shaped diamond when you’re looking at various stones. This shows the retailer you’re an informed buyer. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Look at the diamond face-up and pay attention to its outline. A pear shaped diamond should have gently rounded shoulders and wings. The wings should form attractive arches. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.

A 4.04 ct yellow pear shaped diamond and 3.02 ct colorless pear shaped diamond in a bypass engagement ring setting.

A bejeweled pair of pears: a 4.06 carat (ct) yellow pear shaped diamond is nestled against a 3.02 ct colorless diamond. The band, which flows from 18K white gold to yellow gold, echoes the colors of the stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The pear shaped diamond, like the round brilliant diamond, is faceted to deliver the most sparkle and brilliance. Here are the names of important parts of a faceted diamond, which you should know and are used in this blog:

Culet: The culet is a small facet at the bottom of the pavilion of a finished gem intended to prevent chipping and abrasion of the fragile tip. Some gems have no facet in this area, which is often called a closed culet.
Crown: The top part of a gem located above the girdle.
Girdle: A narrow band that circumscribes the edge of the plane separating the crown and pavilion.
Pavilion: The portion of a polished gem that is below the girdle. The purpose of pavilion facets is to reflect light toward the crown.
Table: A large facet in the center of the crown.

On a black background, this 3.83 ct pear shaped diamond shines like a star in the night sky. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Atelier Marisa

Like many other fancy shapes (such as the marquise or heart shape), a pear shaped diamond tends to hold more color than a round brilliant. Therefore, it is best to choose a diamond that is high on the GIA color scale or a fancy-color diamond.

A 1.21 ct Fancy purplish pink pear shaped diamond engagement ring set in 18K gold.

Because pear shaped diamonds tend to hold more color than round brilliant diamonds, it is best to choose a diamond that is high on the GIA color scale or a fancy-color diamond like this 1.21 ct Fancy purplish pink diamond engagement ring set in 18K gold. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

2. Look for symmetry in a pear shaped diamond

Symmetry is key to the overall beauty of gemstones, but it’s even more important in some fancy-shape diamonds like oval diamonds, heart shaped diamonds, marquise diamonds and pear shapes. To see if a pear shaped diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the length of the gem and examine the two halves. The more closely they mirror each other, the better the symmetry is.

Notice how the shoulders, bellies and wings in the illustration below are identical on either side of the line, and how the shape, size and placement of the facets in each half of the stone mirror one another. This is an ideal pear shape. You can use the illustration as a guide when picking a pear shaped diamond.

Illustration demonstrating perfect symmetry in a pear shaped diamond.

Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

When GIA diamond graders evaluate the symmetry of fancy-shape diamonds, which includes pear shapes, they also look for things like a balanced and even outline. Certain types of asymmetry and uneven proportions are considered by most in the jewelry trade to have a negative effect on the appearance of a pear shaped diamond. These include:

High shoulders
Flat wings
Bulged wings
Undefined points

Uneven shoulders and uneven wings are other variations that will detract from the appearance of a pear shaped diamond. The illustration below has both.

Illustration showing an uneven outline of a pear shaped diamond with asymmetry in its shoulders, belly and wings.

The uneven outline of this pear shape reveals the asymmetry of its shoulders, belly and wings. You might want to avoid a diamond cut like this. Illustration: GIA

3. The ideal length-to-width ratio is the one you prefer

You might run into the phrase “length-to-width ratio” (comparison of the length and width of the outline of many fancy-shape diamonds, determined by dividing the diamond’s length by its width and stated as a ratio, like 1.75:1). Many experts prefer a length-to-width ratio that lies in the range of about 1.50–1.75:1. Others in the trade believe that a ratio isn’t enough to convey a diamond’s beauty. You may want to let your heart and eye guide you.

A 0.88 ct pear shaped diamond engagement ring accented with a halo of diamonds and melee in the shank.

Falling in love with any diamond is more than finding the perfect symmetry and length-to-width ratio. Are you infatuated with this 0.88 ct pear shaped diamond? Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

4. Check culet placement and position of inclusions

The placement of the culet on a pear shaped diamond can affect its appearance. It should be the same distance from the two sides of the diamond. A culet that is off-center will affect the diamond’s symmetry and is likely to make it less attractive. In some pear shapes, the culet is included in a keel line that extends down the length of the diamond where the pavilion facets meet. Like the culet, the keel line should be equidistant from either side of the diamond.

An Illustration of a pear shaped diamond showing an off-center culet.

The culet on this pear shaped diamond is off-center. It should be symmetrically placed at the same distance from either side of the gem. Illustration: GIA

Note, too, whether the diamond has any inclusions, especially near its point, as this is the area of that is most sensitive to damage. In addition, if the pear shaped diamond has a larger table facet, inclusions could be more apparent, so good clarity is a consideration.

5. Make sure the table is centered on a pear shaped diamond

A poorly placed table facet can also make a pear shaped diamond look less attractive. For maximum brightness and fire, the table should be centered on the line of symmetry.

An illustration of a pear shaped diamond showing an off center table.

If the table is off-center, the crown facets on one side of the pear shaped diamond will appear larger than the facets on the opposite side. Illustration: GIA

6. Avoid the bow-tie on a pear shaped diamond

Many pear shaped diamonds show a dark pattern that resembles a bow-tie. This pattern typically runs across the width of the stone from the center of the table. The bow-tie on a well-cut pear shaped diamond should be minimal, but there will still be good contrast between light and dark areas in the stone.

A bow-tie can vary from light gray to black. The darker or larger it is, the more it detracts from the face-up appearance of a pear shaped diamond. A bow-tie gets darker as the difference between a diamond’s length and width increases and pavilion angle variations (the measured angle between the pavilion main facet plane and the table plane) become more extreme.

If you find the bow-tie effect distracting, be sure to examine a variety of pear shaped diamonds from different angles under the lighting conditions in which the engagement ring will be worn. You may not be able to avoid a bow-tie altogether, but you should be able to find a stone in which it is subtle.

These pear shaped diamonds display a bow-tie effect, the dark area that extends across the width of each stone. Photo: Nicholas DelRe/GIA

7. Choose a setting that protects the point of a pear shaped diamond

The most vulnerable part of a pear shaped diamond is the point. This area can be protected by placing a V-prong on the point or choosing a bezel setting around the entire stone.

An 8.25 ct pear shaped diamond engagement ring in a V-prong platinum setting.

A V-prong protects the point – an area susceptible to chipping – of this 8.25 ct pear shaped diamond. Four more prongs hold the diamond securely in place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A bezel setting ensures that this 0.40 ct pear shaped diamond is well protected.

A bezel setting ensures that the 0.40 ct pear shaped diamond is well protected. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

8. Point up or down? You decide how to wear a pear shaped diamond

The traditional way to wear a pear shaped diamond engagement ring is to have the tip pointing away from you (down). According to many in the trade, this makes the finger look more slender. But tradition has its limits. Some brides choose to wear this shape with the point toward them (up). And some prefer a horizontal setting that gives this classic diamond shape a distinctive, contemporary look.

Like all matters of the heart, let yours decide which way the pear should point.

A 1.34 ct Art Deco style pear shaped diamond engagement ring with radiant cut diamonds and sapphires.

Whether the tip of the 1.34 ct pear shaped diamond points toward or away from you, an engagement ring like this will look spectacular on the finger. The center stone is surrounded by 43 radiant cut diamonds weighing 0.41 carats and 1.03 carats of sapphires. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Among the most elegant of the fancy shapes, a pear shaped diamond conveys both the delicacy of a single tear and the strength of the brightest star. While there are many factors to consider when searching for the perfect stone for your diamond engagement ring, it is a journey well worth taking. When deciding between different pear shaped diamonds, the overall appearance is more important than the specific proportion details. Often, what makes a pear shaped diamond attractive is a matter of personal taste. So enjoy looking at different pear shaped diamond engagement rings until you fall in love with the perfect one.

Before you go shopping, be sure to read our 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

Radiant Cut Engagement Ring – A Brilliant Option

July 12, 2017

A radiant cut engagement ring is an irresistible combination: It has the fire of a round brilliant diamond and the aristocratic elegance of an emerald cut. Created in 1977, the radiant cut has been charming brides-to-be for decades.

This dramatic 8 carat (ct) radiant cut yellow diamond is an alluring choice for a diamond engagement ring. Courtesy: McTeigue and McClelland

A relative newcomer to the ranks of fancy-shaped diamonds, the radiant cut can be square or rectangular; notably, it has cropped corners and brilliant-cut facets. Diamonds with less-than-exceptional clarity can be good candidates for radiant cut engagement rings: In addition to giving the stone plenty of sparkle, this brilliant-cut faceting pattern disguises inclusions that would be more readily apparent in an emerald cut.

A 3 ct radiant cut diamond is flanked by two trilliants weighing 0.70 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Buying a Radiant Cut Engagement Ring

Radiant cut diamonds have broad appeal. Elongated stones can create the effect of slenderizing fingers, while shorter styles can flatter even the most petite hands. To determine which proportions work best for you, we recommend trying on various options to find the perfect radiant cut engagement ring.

A beautiful 20.04 ct radiant cut diamond set in platinum showcases the excitement of this faceting style. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Important characteristics to look for in any radiant cut diamond are a well-centered culet, parallel sides and corners cropped to identical size.

Looking for a simple yet elegant square shape for your engagement ring? This radiant cut center stone with round brilliant cut diamonds is an attractive option. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

The enchanting sparkle and alluring appearance of radiant cut diamonds makes them especially attractive as solitaires. And they don’t require extra embellishment to stand out from the crowd: Taste-making celebrities like Megan Fox sport the cut.

The three yellow radiant cut diamonds in this ring set with round yellow melee diamonds make a breathtaking statement. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The radiant cut diamond also pairs well with side stones. Shapes with straight edges—like trilliants, or baguettes and other rectangular stones—are popular in radiant cut engagement rings because their linear silhouettes are complementary. And while you’ll often see radiant cut diamonds oriented north-to-south in engagement rings, the east-to-west orientation is gaining in popularity.

Magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct.

You’re sure to stand out and be noticed with an engagement ring that has a radiant cut diamond pointing east to west. This magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you are looking for the elegance of a rectangular or square shape with the fire of a round brilliant diamond, a radiant cut engagement ring may be perfect for you. Ready to start shopping? Read on to learn more about how to pick a radiant cut diamond.

Hungry for a Baguette Diamond Engagement Ring?

June 13, 2017

A baguette diamond, usually set in multiples, adds a dash of style to an engagement ring – or any jewelry piece. Popular since the Art Deco era, this dazzling diamond cut should be part of your shopping vocabulary. Here’s what you need to know.

In this blog, we cover:
Baguette Diamond: A Definition
Baguette Diamond: A Brief History
Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Baguette Diamond: A Definition

Baguettes are small, usually rectangular, step-cut diamonds with straight or tapered edges. Some baguettes are almost square, while others have a length-to-width ratio of 5:1 or even longer. A tapered baguette diamond has long sides that angle inwards. Baguettes are popular side stones in engagement rings.

Baguette diamond illustration showing parallel edges

All the edges are parallel to each other in this baguette. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

An illustration showing long sides of a tapered baguette diamond angled inwards

The long sides of a tapered baguette angle inwards. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Channel-set tapered baguette diamond earrings

Channel-set tapered baguettes make these earrings visually arresting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Emerald cut diamonds are also rectangular or square step cuts. Unlike baguettes, though, they have diagonally cut—not square—corners.

An emerald cut diamond with diagonal corners

An emerald cut diamond has diagonal corners. A baguette does not. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

In a style called the ballerina setting, baguettes surround the center stone to form a skirt that resembles a ballerina’s tutu. While the tutu effect is best shown with tapered baguettes, so the skirt appears to flow out from the girdle of the center stone, other diamond shapes have also been used. For a ballerina setting, baguettes are typically channel set, though they are occasionally prong set.

An 18K yellow gold prong-set cocktail ring with a ruby center stone, accented with tapered baguettes to make a “ballerina setting.”

Tapered baguettes in a prong setting are used to make this “ballerina setting,” which encircles the ruby. Courtesy: The RealReal

An attractive novelty cut is the brilliant baguette. This is primarily a mixed cut, with brilliant-style facets (triangular and kite shaped) on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. A benefit of this style is that it can add more sparkle to your diamond engagement ring.

Tapered baguette diamond with brilliant facets and accompanying illustration

The top image is a tapered baguette diamond with brilliant-style facets on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. The bottom image shows where the crown and pavilion facets are typically placed. Photo and Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Tapered baguette diamond engagement ring with a 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone

Baguettes with a brilliant facet arrangement on the pavilion add even more visual fireworks to the 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Dimensions are more important than weight when purchasing baguette diamonds, since they are usually sold in multiples. For example, if you were purchasing two of them–to sit on either side of a center stone–you or your jeweler would ask for two stones of equal dimensions – and not of equal carat weight.

Baguette Diamond: A Brief History

The origin of the term “baguette” for these small step-cut diamonds is up for debate. The traditional translation of the French word is “rod” or “stick,” but one meaning given in Randle Cotgrave’s 1673 French and English Dictionary is “a little jewel.” It is the diminutive of the French “bague,” which at the time meant “jewel” or, its current meaning, “ring.”

The rectangular step-cut diamond now called the baguette diamond is believed to have evolved from the hogback, an elongated table cut that was known since at least the mid-16th century. At that time, it was often used to make monograms and jeweled letters (like the owner’s initials). Cartier reintroduced the baguette cutting style in 1912, and in the following decades jewelry designers of the Art Deco period favored its clean lines and geometric shape. It was in the 20^th century that the term “baguette” was first used in English to refer to this popular side stone as we know it today. Some think that the diamond cut was named after the long, thin loaf of French bread that it often resembles.

A 1.37 ct emerald cut Art Deco engagement ring accented with six baguette diamonds and 18 round brilliants

Six baguettes and 18 round brilliants border a 1.37 ct emerald cut diamond in this Art Deco ring (circa 1930s). The use of geometric shapes is a defining characteristic of the period. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 2.40 ct Art Deco engagement ring with 0.85 carats of baguettes, triangular diamonds and trilliant cut synthetic rubies

Another Art Deco treasure, this engagement ring features a 2.40 ct emerald cut center stone, 0.85 carats of baguettes and triangular diamonds, and 0.96 carats of trilliant cut synthetic rubies. Courtesy: The RealReal

The baguette diamond is frequently used in contemporary jewelry and engagement rings. So if you want a modern version of an Art Deco engagement ring, consider one with baguettes.

A 1.79 ct emerald cut engagement ring flanked by 0.70 carats of baguette cut diamonds

A bonanza of baguette diamonds with a total weight of approximately 0.70 carats, these slender beauties bring a majestic look to the 1.79 ct center stone. The ring, a contemporary creation, shows that the Art Deco look is alive and well. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Here are some tips for picking beautiful baguette diamond:

Baguettes that fall toward the top of the D-to-Z color range are often prized.

A 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond flanked by two baguette diamond accents

An 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond is the unquestioned star in this ring. Two flanking baguette diamonds play a supporting role: Their colors blend seamlessly and do not detract from the diamond’s beauty. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

All the baguettes in the ring should be similar in color and clarity, and they should match the center diamond. A baguette diamond whose color or clarity is noticeably different from another or from the center stone is likely to create an inharmonious and unappealing appearance.
Step cut means that the crown facets of the baguette are arranged in a terrace-like fashion parallel to the table edges. Slight deviations in the facets’ symmetry are usually visible to the naked eye and detract from the stone. Make sure all facets are parallel and symmetrical.
Avoid inclusions – they are usually more visible in a baguette diamond than a round brilliant.
Baguettes and tapered baguettes are purchased in sets. For simple accent stones on the shoulder of a ring, you may want one, two or three (for example) baguettes or tapered baguettes on each shoulder. They will need to match in length and width (and taper) to fit the channels. For straight baguettes, you will need to specify the length and width to 0.1 millimeter (mm) for a good match. For tapered baguettes, you’ll need to specify the wide and narrow end widths to 0.1 mm.
To create a long curve, buy the appropriate number of tapered baguettes that range in length from X to Y, depending on the type of width range you want that curve to be. The stronger the taper, the sharper the curve, so ask for diamonds with a slight or strong taper.
Like most other diamonds, baguettes can be treated to enhance their appearance. Treatments may include high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) to enhance color or fracture filling to enhance apparent clarity. Synthetic diamond baguettes are also available in the marketplace. By law, a retailer must disclose if the diamonds you are purchasing are natural, treated or synthetic.

A 2.01 ct E-color emerald cut diamond flanked by two tapered baguette diamond accents

A 2.01 ct E-color SI1 emerald cut diamond is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing approximately 0.35 carats in total. Baguettes mismatched in color or clarity would detract from the aristocratic splendor of the ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette diamonds bring understated elegance wherever they are used. But there are other small diamonds to consider – particularly if you’re looking to add high drama and sparkle to your engagement ring. Meet melee diamonds and get to know these tiny diamonds with big impact.

The Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — A Classic Shape

May 30, 2017

The cushion cut engagement ring is surging in popularity. This distinctive pillow-shaped diamond is the modern heir to the historic old mine cut diamond. Looking for an engagement ring with a vintage look and classic style? Get inspired!

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by an arrangement of small diamonds

The intricate arrangement of small diamonds, called melee diamonds, surrounding this cushion cut diamond gives this ring an aristocratic air. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — What to Look For

Cushion cut diamonds — both antique and modern — have curved sides and rounded corners. Part of the charm of cushion cut diamonds is their variety. Some have elongated, rectangular proportions and others resemble rounded squares. There’s also a great diversity in the arrangement of their facets that affects their appearance. In addition, this style is well suited to fancy-color diamonds.

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond is accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank. Courtesy: Dana Rebecca Designs

Some cushion cut diamonds have all the fire of round brilliant cut diamonds, while others have a more subtle glow. As when choosing any diamond, try on a number of rings to find your favorite. A beautiful cushion cut is symmetrical so the opposing sides should mirror each other.

Cushion Cut Engagement Rings Aren’t Just for Celebrities

An engagement ring featuring a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank

Stately and sophisticated, this engagement ring features a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank. Milgrain (the rows of tiny beads that outline certain sections) give the ring a vintage feel. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The number of celebrities who choose this distinctive cut for their engagement rings is proof of the cachet of the cushion cut engagement ring. The celebrities who sport them have styles that range from outrageously flashy to quietly refined. Liam Hemsworth gave Miley Cyrus a 19th century 3.5 ct cushion cut set in yellow gold with engraved flowers. Molly Sims’ cushion cut engagement ring features a classic halo setting, and Kim Kardashian’s original 15 ct jewel floats atop a delicately bejeweled band.

Set in a simple mounting, this 3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond is spectacular. Flanking it are two side stones with a total weight of 1.08 carats. Courtesy: Sasha Primak

Hollywood celebrities can offer inspiration when selecting a diamond engagement ring, but let your personal style guide your choice of ring setting. The gently rounded cushion shape suits virtually any sensibility.

The cushion cut engagement ring is timeless. It looks contemporary, but in an antique-style setting it speaks of the romantic past. And its pedigree is impeccable. Could this be a diamond you would wear as your engagement ring?

Are you ready to buy this intriguing diamond cut? It’s pays to learn more about it, including more details about what to look for when selecting the perfect cushion cut diamond.

The Allure of an Oval Diamond

May 23, 2017

An oval diamond has an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance, but with a difference. When it is faceted in the brilliant style, its fire can rival that of a round brilliant. So get ready to pick the perfect oval diamond.

In this blog, we cover:
Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
History of the Oval Diamond
Famous Oval Diamonds
What to Look for in an Oval Diamond
Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

Anatomy of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond is a fancy shape. You can think of it as a round brilliant diamond stretched on its sides, or a rounded version of a cushion shape or cushion brilliant. To pick a beautiful oval diamond, you need to know its parts.

Head or end: The “tips” of the oval.

Shoulder: The curved area reaching from the head/end to the belly.

Belly: The central area where the sides curve out the most.

An illustration showing the anatomy of an oval diamond

Knowing the anatomy of an oval diamond will help you pick one you love. Illustration: GIA

You’ll typically find oval diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style, which means the diamond has 57 or 58 facets, like a standard round brilliant, giving it similar visual qualities. An oval diamond can have a variety of facet arrangements, but the most common is eight bezel facets on the crown combined with eight main facets on the pavilion.

Line diagram of an oval diamond’s crown and pavilion views.

A common facet arrangement for oval diamonds: eight bezel facets on the crown, pictured in light blue (left); eight main pavilion facets, pictured in dark blue (right). Illustration: GIA

There are compelling reasons why many people love oval diamonds: Because the oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, it can appear larger to the eye. The oval shape can make the finger seem longer. And because the shape doesn’t have sharp angles or corners, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping compared to other fancy shapes.

History of the Oval Diamond

The brilliant faceting style was first introduced circa 1700. Brilliant-cut cushion shaped diamonds predominated because cutters tended to follow the outline of the rough crystal. But diamonds were available in a variety of shapes, including oval. At this time, diamonds were not described by their shapes – they were simply called “brilliants.” It isn’t until the late 1800s that we first see mention of oval diamonds in literature.

Modern appeal for the oval diamond began in 1957. The oval diamond enjoyed a resurgence between 1998 and 2001, driven in part by marketing campaigns, and now it’s making a comeback. According to Town & Country magazine, the oval diamond ranked 6th in popularity with American consumers in 2016 (round diamonds were still no. 1).

Famous Oval Diamonds

The 105.60 carat (ct) Koh-i-Noor is probably the most famous oval diamond. It was so valuable that it was said that “whoever owned the Koh-i-Noor ruled the world.” Following centuries in the possession of rulers from Persia and India, the diamond was presented to Britain’s Queen Victoria on July 3, 1850. It is now set in the Queen Mother’s crown, which was fashioned for Queen Elizabeth, wife of George VI (and mother of Elizabeth II), for their 1937 coronation. You can see it in the Tower of London with the other Crown Jewels.

The 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff (long known as the Wittelsbach Blue) is another famous oval diamond with a royal provenance. The rough probably came from India’s famed Golconda District. In about 1666, it was given as part of a dowry for the marriage of Infanta Margarita Teresa of Spain into the House of Hapsburg. In 1722, it was used again as part of a dowry, this time for a marriage into the House of Wittelsbach. In 1931, the Wittelsbach Blue vanished from sight and was hidden for 30 years, until it was rediscovered in 1961. After it was sold at auction for $24.3 million in December 2008 to London Jeweler Lawrence Graff, the original 35.56 ct cushion modified brilliant diamond was recut to a 31.06 ct oval to make it a Fancy Deep blue, Internally Flawless gem, and was renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff.

Pictured here is the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, recut from the historic Wittelsbach Blue. The recut diamond was graded Fancy Deep blue according to GIA’s colored diamond color grading system. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Another oval diamond made international news in April 2017, when Hong Kong jeweler Chow Tai Fook bought a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond for $71.2 million. Known to many as the Pink Star or Steinmetz Pink, it became the most expensive diamond ever sold at auction. The retailer renamed it the CTF Pink Star. The diamond was mined in Botswana in 1999. It took cutters two years to turn the 132.50 ct rough into its final shape.

The Pink Star, a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink oval diamond

The Pink Star, now called the CTF Pink Star, smashed auction records when it sold for $71.2 million in April 2017. The 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond is a stunning example of an oval shaped diamond. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to Look for in an Oval Diamond

Turn to the 4Cs of diamond quality when shopping for an oval diamond. GIA uses the same criteria for determining carat weight, color and clarity for oval diamonds as it does for round brilliants. This can help you narrow your search.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Keep proportion in mind when looking at oval diamonds. Consumers and trade professionals tend to prefer a longer oval shape, according to a comprehensive survey of shape preferences GIA conducted in 2009. The survey showed that the most popular length-to-width ratio for ovals was 1.7:1. However, it is not practical to cut such long oval diamonds from the original rough, so you’ll rarely find one. More typical are ovals with ratios ranging from 1.3:1 to 1.4:1.

This 1.06 ct oval diamond has a 1.71:1 length-to-width ratio. It is rare to find oval diamonds this long. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 3.01 ct oval diamond with a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio

This 3.01 ct oval diamond has a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio, which is a little shorter than most oval diamonds. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 2.28 ct oval diamond with a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio

This 2.28 ct oval diamond has a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio. Even this length is a little hard to find. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

Symmetry

Symmetry is important in creating the beauty of an oval diamond. To determine if an oval diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the center. The shape and faceting of the two halves should mirror each other. Then draw an imaginary line across the middle of the oval. Again, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Symmetry is based on how closely the shape and facets on either side of these imaginary center lines mirror each other. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval diamond surrounded by two halos of melee diamonds

The allure of an oval diamond is easy to see in this 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval. The two halos surrounding it contain D-to-F color melee diamonds totaling 1.20 carats. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Shape Appeal

Look for an oval diamond with a graceful outline and harmoniously proportioned parts. To find one that’s attractive to you, it pays to compare several different oval diamonds. Here are some common shape variations:

This oval cut has flat shoulders, which many in GIA’s survey considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has bulging shoulders – an aspect that many of those surveyed also considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has no shoulder bulge. Its overall symmetry and well-proportioned shape contribute to its visual appeal. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Girdle Thickness

The girdle is the intersection of the crown and pavilion. It defines the perimeter of the diamond and functions as its setting edge. Girdle thickness is judged the same way in fancy shapes as in rounds. Be sure to look at the diamond’s proportion diagram in its GIA Diamond Grading Report. The diagram will show the stone’s average girdle thickness percentage and indicate if the girdle is too thick or too thin. An overly thick girdle can contribute to a heavier diamond than its face-up appearance warrants, and a thin girdle can increase the risk of damage such as chipping.

Bow-tie Effect

Expect to see a bow tie. A “bow tie” in diamond parlance is a dark bow-shaped pattern across the table of the diamond.

What causes a bow tie? A diamond’s facets act like a series of mirrors that gather light from around you and return it to your eye. As you look at the stone, the dark contrast you see is a reflection of your head and shoulders blocking light from entering the diamond. The closer your face is to the diamond, the more pronounced the bow tie will be.

If the diamond is cut well, the bow tie will be minimal, but once you are in front of the diamond, there will always be some measure of a bow tie.

An illustration of an oval diamond showing the bow-tie effect

The grayed-out area across the table in this illustration is where you’ll likely see the bow-tie effect. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

You’ll have lots of choices for engagement ring settings for oval diamonds. And each setting can create a dramatically different look. Here are some options.

Halo Setting

A halo of smaller diamonds around the oval center stone is a lovely addition. It accentuates the shape and makes the diamond appear larger. Choosing a different color of metal or side stones can create an arresting look.

A 10.92 ct oval diamond engagement ring, accented with a halo of Fancy pink melee diamonds

A mesmerizing sight, this oval diamond engagement ring features a 10.92 ct center stone, accented with a halo of fancy pink melee diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Prong Setting

Prong settings are good choices for an oval diamond. Not only do they protect the diamond from loss, but they can also add height, raising the diamond from the band and drawing the eye to the gem.

An oval diamond makes a dramatic statement in a prong setting. A halo of smaller diamonds adds even more panache. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting, which completely encloses the perimeter of the diamond in metal, is a great choice if you lead an active life. It’s an effective way to protect the diamond and also enhances the beauty of the oval shape.

A 0.84 ct oval shape diamond sits in a platinum bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Side Stones

An oval diamond goes well with virtually any kind of side stone. Half-moon diamonds echo its shape, so they can be an attractive choice. Baguettes and tapered baguettes offer an opportunity to create contrast, as do colored gems. If you want your diamond side stones to match the center oval, choose side stones that are within one or two color grades of the larger diamond so they don’t compete with its beauty.

Contrasting colors and shapes bring life to this engagement ring. It features a 0.90 ct oval center stone, flanked by two round sapphires and round diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Wide Band

Because of its shape, an oval diamond works well with a wider band.

An oval diamond three stone engagement ring

Three oval diamonds look at home in a wide band. It especially suits the 1.57 ct center stone. Courtesy: EraGem.com

An oval diamond is beautiful…classic…and a little different. It’s a wonderful option for an engagement ring.

If you’re looking to create a diamond engagement ring that’s out of the ordinary, there are many more fancy shapes to choose from. A marquise diamond just might be for you.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring — A Modern Take on Tradition

March 14, 2017

Princess cut engagement rings are relative newcomers on the diamond engagement ring scene. They’ve gained popularity for their breathtaking brilliance and fire. Discover this distinctive diamond, known for its attention-grabbing sparkle.

The princess cut is among the newest diamond cuts—especially when compared to round and cushion styles that have origins dating back centuries. This stunning cut was first developed in 1979, and is second only to the round brilliant cut diamond as the top choice for engagement ring diamonds. Its royal name “princess” undoubtedly contributes to its appeal. If you are looking for a special diamond, a princess cut engagement ring offers a tremendous amount of brilliance and beauty.

White gold Princess cut engagement ring with pave set accent diamonds

Mark Schneider’s 18K white gold Affection engagement ring with a princess cut center stone and pavé set accent diamonds has an elegant beauty. Courtesy: Mark Schneider Design

It’s not difficult to understand the attraction of this striking diamond cut. Unlike emerald cut engagement rings and other square- or rectangular-shaped diamonds that feature a step cut faceting style, princess cut diamonds have a modified brilliant facet arrangement, offering both electrifying sparkle and a strong, attention-grabbing shape.

How to Find the Right Princess Cut Engagement Ring Diamond

For the most appealing appearance, consider the diamond’s length-to-width ratio. To be called a square princess cut, the ratio cannot exceed 1.05:1. Rectangular princess cuts can have various ratios, but commonly they are no greater than 1.25:1.

Bezel set princess cut diamond engagement ring

A ring with a vintage feel, the Alvadora features a bezel set Princess cut diamond, a latticed halo, milgrain detail and accent diamonds. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

Beyond shape, symmetry influences the desirability of a princess cut stone. When viewed from above, faceting should match on both sides of its midpoint, both vertically and horizontally. The importance of symmetry applies below the girdle as well. When a princess cut diamond is turned face down, the faceting and shape of each side should mirror the side opposite.

Learn more about how to select a princess cut diamond.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring: Setting Considerations

Princess cut diamonds are often set as elegant solitaires to show off their arresting beauty. Side stones featuring crisp, angular lines—such as triangles or baguettes—can enhance the presentation of a princess cut diamond. This cut adapts well to a variety of settings, though its straight contours seem an obvious fit for contemporary, architectural diamond engagement ring styles.

14K white gold princess cut diamond engagement ring with accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats.

This beautiful 14K white gold Heaven’s Gates ring features a princess cut center stone and accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats. Courtesy: Scott Kay

When shopping for a princess cut engagement ring, it’s important to realize that the sharp pointed corners that contribute to the diamond’s bold geometry are also areas that are vulnerable to chipping. Choosing a setting with four V-shaped prongs, eight prongs with two at each corner (called split prongs), or a bezel setting will keep the corners unscathed and preserve a princess cut diamond’s regal profile.

Princess cut engagement ring with scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree

Simple yet elegant, this Kirk Kara tapered solitaire engagement ring has a princess cut center stone, scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree. Courtesy: Kirk Kara

An added bonus to this striking diamond cut may be its price. You may find that princess cut diamonds cost less per carat than comparable round brilliant cut diamonds. That’s because the cutter is able to retain more of the original diamond crystal.

Rose gold princess cut engagement ring with round cut white diamonds

18K rose gold Duchess collection ring with princess cut center stone and round cut white diamonds. Courtesy: Simon G Jewelry

So whether you select a princess cut for a diamond engagement ring because of its distinctive shape or its brilliant sparkle, your future bride will feel just as regal as her diamond’s namesake.

Ready to start shopping? Don’t leave home without learning more about diamonds and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality.

The Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring – A Symbol of Love

January 31, 2017

A heart-shaped engagement ring is unabashedly romantic and the perfect symbol of love. But did you know that heart-shaped diamonds are relatively uncommon in diamond engagement rings?

There are many reasons for this. Perhaps top among them the fact that the heart shape works best for larger diamonds – those that are at least one-half carat in size. But although uncommon, heart-shaped diamonds are having their moment in the spotlight. If you have your heart set on a heart-shaped engagement ring, read on for some tips to help you pick the perfect one.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: It’s All about the Outline and Symmetry

The outline needs to reflect a traditional heart shape. You may find some that have pointed lobes or very flat wings, rendering an outline that resembles an arrowhead. Symmetry is a key indicator of quality in a diamond of this shape. (After all, who wants an off-kilter sign of affection?) Both left and right sides of the heart should match in size and shape, although it’s not unusual for the width of the diamond to be greater than its length.

Here’s a helpful tip you can use when you’re in a jewelry store:
1. Draw an imaginary line down the center of the diamond you’re eyeing.
2. Check to see if both halves of the heart match in size and shape, from cleft (the center V-shaped region) to lobes (the rounded portions) to point.
3. A symmetrical heart-shaped diamond should also have a length-to-width ratio of 1:1 to 1:1.2.

Fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds.

Romance can sometimes be rocky, but the heart remains steady in this fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds. The left and right sides look identical. Courtesy: Norman Silverman.

You’re likely to see a number of heart-shaped diamonds that are asymmetrical. Examples of this include a poor length-to-width ratio, misshapen wings and an undefined point. Take a look at the asymmetrical heart-shaped diamond below.

Asymmetry detracts from the innate appeal of a heart-shaped diamond as the high shoulders, flatish wings and short length-to-width ratio of this stone illustrate.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Clarity Counts

Clarity characteristics can be easier to spot in heart-shaped diamonds. It’s best to look for a stone with good diamond clarity. Avoid diamonds with eye-visible inclusions that could diminish their beauty and affect their durability and value.

This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her.

All clear? Only a closer look – and a GIA Diamond Grading Report – can tell. This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Settings

Most heart-shaped engagement rings are relatively simple in design: streamlined styles emphasize the special silhouette of the diamond’s shape, which offers plenty of drama on its own. Consider classic solitaire settings or elegant halo designs that trace the outline of the central diamond in small, pavé-set stones.

Surrounding a heart-shaped diamond by melee and placing it in a halo setting protects the point – and creates a stunner of a ring. Courtesy: Yael Designs

As a practical matter, it’s smart to look for a diamond engagement ring that shields the point of a heart-shaped diamond, since it’s the part of the stone most vulnerable to damage. Once you’ve found the heart of your dreams, you’ll want to protect it.

Simple yet stunning, this lovely fancy brown-yellow 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond makes the perfect engagement ring. Courtesy: Mark Broumand

Ready to go shopping? Pick up more tips with our blog post on Picking a Heart-Shaped Gem. It gets into the details of choosing the perfect heart-shaped gem to symbolize your love.

Main Image: Per Lei single shank heart-shape engagement ring. Courtesy: Danhov

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