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GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

A 14K white gold split-shank engagement ring with a 2.11 ct cushion cut center stone
The Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — A Classic Shape

The cushion cut engagement ring is surging in popularity. This distinctive pillow-shaped diamond is the modern heir to the historic old mine cut diamond. Looking for an engagement ring with a vintage look and classic style? Get inspired!

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by an arrangement of small diamonds

The intricate arrangement of small diamonds, called melee diamonds, surrounding this cushion cut diamond gives this ring an aristocratic air. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — What to Look For

Cushion cut diamonds — both antique and modern — have curved sides and rounded corners. Part of the charm of cushion cut diamonds is their variety. Some have elongated, rectangular proportions and others resemble rounded squares. There’s also a great diversity in the arrangement of their facets that affects their appearance. In addition, this style is well suited to fancy-color diamonds.

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond is accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank. Courtesy: Dana Rebecca Designs

Some cushion cut diamonds have all the fire of round brilliant cut diamonds, while others have a more subtle glow. As when choosing any diamond, try on a number of rings to find your favorite. A beautiful cushion cut is symmetrical so the opposing sides should mirror each other.

Cushion Cut Engagement Rings Aren’t Just for Celebrities

An engagement ring featuring a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank

Stately and sophisticated, this engagement ring features a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank. Milgrain (the rows of tiny beads that outline certain sections) give the ring a vintage feel. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The number of celebrities who choose this distinctive cut for their engagement rings is proof of the cachet of the cushion cut engagement ring. The celebrities who sport them have styles that range from outrageously flashy to quietly refined. Liam Hemsworth gave Miley Cyrus a 19th century 3.5 ct cushion cut set in yellow gold with engraved flowers. Molly Sims’ cushion cut engagement ring features a classic halo setting, and Kim Kardashian’s original 15 ct jewel floats atop a delicately bejeweled band.

3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond

Set in a simple mounting, this 3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond is spectacular. Flanking it are two side stones with a total weight of 1.08 carats. Courtesy: Sasha Primak

Hollywood celebrities can offer inspiration when selecting a diamond engagement ring, but let your personal style guide your choice of ring setting. The gently rounded cushion shape suits virtually any sensibility.

The cushion cut engagement ring is timeless. It looks contemporary, but in an antique-style setting it speaks of the romantic past. And its pedigree is impeccable. Could this be a diamond you would wear as your engagement ring?

Are you ready to buy this intriguing diamond cut? It’s pays to learn more about it, including more details about what to look for when selecting the perfect cushion cut diamond.

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A 10.92 carat (ct) oval diamond engagement ring accented with fancy pink and white melee set in 18K rose gold and platinum
The Allure of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond has an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance, but with a difference. When it is faceted in the brilliant style, its fire can rival that of a round brilliant. So get ready to pick the perfect oval diamond.

In this blog, we cover:
Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
History of the Oval Diamond
Famous Oval Diamonds
What to Look for in an Oval Diamond
Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

Anatomy of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond is a fancy shape. You can think of it as a round brilliant diamond stretched on its sides, or a rounded version of a cushion shape or cushion brilliant. To pick a beautiful oval diamond, you need to know its parts.

Head or end: The “tips” of the oval.

Shoulder: The curved area reaching from the head/end to the belly.

Belly: The central area where the sides curve out the most.

An illustration showing the anatomy of an oval diamond

Knowing the anatomy of an oval diamond will help you pick one you love. Illustration: GIA

You’ll typically find oval diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style, which means the diamond has 57 or 58 facets, like a standard round brilliant, giving it similar visual qualities. An oval diamond can have a variety of facet arrangements, but the most common is eight bezel facets on the crown combined with eight main facets on the pavilion.

Line diagram of an oval diamond’s crown and pavilion views.

A common facet arrangement for oval diamonds: eight bezel facets on the crown, pictured in light blue (left); eight main pavilion facets, pictured in dark blue (right). Illustration: GIA

There are compelling reasons why many people love oval diamonds: Because the oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, it can appear larger to the eye. The oval shape can make the finger seem longer. And because the shape doesn’t have sharp angles or corners, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping compared to other fancy shapes.

History of the Oval Diamond

The brilliant faceting style was first introduced circa 1700. Brilliant-cut cushion shaped diamonds predominated because cutters tended to follow the outline of the rough crystal. But diamonds were available in a variety of shapes, including oval. At this time, diamonds were not described by their shapes – they were simply called “brilliants.” It isn’t until the late 1800s that we first see mention of oval diamonds in literature.

Modern appeal for the oval diamond began in 1957. The oval diamond enjoyed a resurgence between 1998 and 2001, driven in part by marketing campaigns, and now it’s making a comeback. According to Town & Country magazine, the oval diamond ranked 6th in popularity with American consumers in 2016 (round diamonds were still no. 1).

Famous Oval Diamonds

The 105.60 carat (ct) Koh-i-Noor is probably the most famous oval diamond. It was so valuable that it was said that “whoever owned the Koh-i-Noor ruled the world.” Following centuries in the possession of rulers from Persia and India, the diamond was presented to Britain’s Queen Victoria on July 3, 1850. It is now set in the Queen Mother’s crown, which was fashioned for Queen Elizabeth, wife of George VI (and mother of Elizabeth II), for their 1937 coronation. You can see it in the Tower of London with the other Crown Jewels.

The 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff (long known as the Wittelsbach Blue) is another famous oval diamond with a royal provenance. The rough probably came from India’s famed Golconda District. In about 1666, it was given as part of a dowry for the marriage of Infanta Margarita Teresa of Spain into the House of Hapsburg. In 1722, it was used again as part of a dowry, this time for a marriage into the House of Wittelsbach. In 1931, the Wittelsbach Blue vanished from sight and was hidden for 30 years, until it was rediscovered in 1961. After it was sold at auction for $24.3 million in December 2008 to London Jeweler Lawrence Graff, the original 35.56 ct cushion modified brilliant diamond was recut to a 31.06 ct oval to make it a Fancy Deep blue, Internally Flawless gem, and was renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff.

The 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, recut from the historic Wittelsbach Blue

Pictured here is the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, recut from the historic Wittelsbach Blue. The recut diamond was graded Fancy Deep blue according to GIA’s colored diamond color grading system. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Another oval diamond made international news in April 2017, when Hong Kong jeweler Chow Tai Fook bought a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond for $71.2 million. Known to many as the Pink Star or Steinmetz Pink, it became the most expensive diamond ever sold at auction. The retailer renamed it the CTF Pink Star. The diamond was mined in Botswana in 1999. It took cutters two years to turn the 132.50 ct rough into its final shape.

The Pink Star, a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink oval diamond

The Pink Star, now called the CTF Pink Star, smashed auction records when it sold for $71.2 million in April 2017. The 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond is a stunning example of an oval shaped diamond. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to Look for in an Oval Diamond

Turn to the 4Cs of diamond quality when shopping for an oval diamond. GIA uses the same criteria for determining carat weight, color and clarity for oval diamonds as it does for round brilliants. This can help you narrow your search.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Keep proportion in mind when looking at oval diamonds. Consumers and trade professionals tend to prefer a longer oval shape, according to a comprehensive survey of shape preferences GIA conducted in 2009. The survey showed that the most popular length-to-width ratio for ovals was 1.7:1. However, it is not practical to cut such long oval diamonds from the original rough, so you’ll rarely find one. More typical are ovals with ratios ranging from 1.3:1 to 1.4:1.

A 1.06 ct oval diamond with a 1.71:1 length-to-width ratio

This 1.06 ct oval diamond has a 1.71:1 length-to-width ratio. It is rare to find oval diamonds this long. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 3.01 ct oval diamond with a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio

This 3.01 ct oval diamond has a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio, which is a little shorter than most oval diamonds. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 2.28 ct oval diamond with a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio

This 2.28 ct oval diamond has a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio. Even this length is a little hard to find. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

Symmetry

Symmetry is important in creating the beauty of an oval diamond. To determine if an oval diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the center. The shape and faceting of the two halves should mirror each other. Then draw an imaginary line across the middle of the oval. Again, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

A diagram showing two lines of symmetry for an oval diamond: One that runs vertically along the length and another across the width, creating four equal parts

Symmetry is based on how closely the shape and facets on either side of these imaginary center lines mirror each other. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval diamond surrounded by two halos of melee diamonds

The allure of an oval diamond is easy to see in this 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval. The two halos surrounding it contain D-to-F color melee diamonds totaling 1.20 carats. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Shape Appeal

Look for an oval diamond with a graceful outline and harmoniously proportioned parts. To find one that’s attractive to you, it pays to compare several different oval diamonds. Here are some common shape variations:

An oval diamond with flat shoulders

This oval cut has flat shoulders, which many in GIA’s survey considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

An oval diamond with bulging shoulders

This oval cut has bulging shoulders – an aspect that many of those surveyed also considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

An oval diamond with no shoulder bulge

This oval cut has no shoulder bulge. Its overall symmetry and well-proportioned shape contribute to its visual appeal. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Girdle Thickness

The girdle is the intersection of the crown and pavilion. It defines the perimeter of the diamond and functions as its setting edge. Girdle thickness is judged the same way in fancy shapes as in rounds. Be sure to look at the diamond’s proportion diagram in its GIA Diamond Grading Report. The diagram will show the stone’s average girdle thickness percentage and indicate if the girdle is too thick or too thin. An overly thick girdle can contribute to a heavier diamond than its face-up appearance warrants, and a thin girdle can increase the risk of damage such as chipping.

Bow-tie Effect

Expect to see a bow tie. A “bow tie” in diamond parlance is a dark bow-shaped pattern across the table of the diamond.

What causes a bow tie? A diamond’s facets act like a series of mirrors that gather light from around you and return it to your eye. As you look at the stone, the dark contrast you see is a reflection of your head and shoulders blocking light from entering the diamond. The closer your face is to the diamond, the more pronounced the bow tie will be.

If the diamond is cut well, the bow tie will be minimal, but once you are in front of the diamond, there will always be some measure of a bow tie.

An illustration of an oval diamond showing the bow-tie effect

The grayed-out area across the table in this illustration is where you’ll likely see the bow-tie effect. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

You’ll have lots of choices for engagement ring settings for oval diamonds. And each setting can create a dramatically different look. Here are some options.

Halo Setting

A halo of smaller diamonds around the oval center stone is a lovely addition. It accentuates the shape and makes the diamond appear larger. Choosing a different color of metal or side stones can create an arresting look.

A 10.92 ct oval diamond engagement ring, accented with a halo of Fancy pink melee diamonds

A mesmerizing sight, this oval diamond engagement ring features a 10.92 ct center stone, accented with a halo of fancy pink melee diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Prong Setting

Prong settings are good choices for an oval diamond. Not only do they protect the diamond from loss, but they can also add height, raising the diamond from the band and drawing the eye to the gem.

An oval diamond mounted in an 18K rose gold prong setting

An oval diamond makes a dramatic statement in a prong setting. A halo of smaller diamonds adds even more panache. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting, which completely encloses the perimeter of the diamond in metal, is a great choice if you lead an active life. It’s an effective way to protect the diamond and also enhances the beauty of the oval shape.

A 0.84 ct oval diamond mounted in a platinum bezel setting

A 0.84 ct oval shape diamond sits in a platinum bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Side Stones

An oval diamond goes well with virtually any kind of side stone. Half-moon diamonds echo its shape, so they can be an attractive choice. Baguettes and tapered baguettes offer an opportunity to create contrast, as do colored gems. If you want your diamond side stones to match the center oval, choose side stones that are within one or two color grades of the larger diamond so they don’t compete with its beauty.

A 0.90 ct oval diamond engagement ring, flanked by two round sapphires and round diamond side stones

Contrasting colors and shapes bring life to this engagement ring. It features a 0.90 ct oval center stone, flanked by two round sapphires and round diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Wide Band

Because of its shape, an oval diamond works well with a wider band.

An oval diamond three stone engagement ring

Three oval diamonds look at home in a wide band. It especially suits the 1.57 ct center stone. Courtesy: EraGem.com

An oval diamond is beautiful…classic…and a little different. It’s a wonderful option for an engagement ring.

If you’re looking to create a diamond engagement ring that’s out of the ordinary, there are many more fancy shapes to choose from. A marquise diamond just might be for you.

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Cushion cut diamond and platinum engagement ring surrounded by a halo of melee and natural pink diamonds
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding Carat Weight

If you’re shopping for a diamond, carat weight is probably one of the important things you’re considering. It seems like a straightforward measurement, but there is more to it than a simple number. Here’s essential information you need to know.

In this post, we cover:


What Is Carat Weight?

Diamond weight is stated in metric measurements called carats. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, which is 1/5 of a gram or 0.20 gram. There are 142 carats in an ounce. Carat is also the standard unit of weight for most gemstones.

The modern carat system has its roots in the carob seed, which comes from the locust tree. Because the small seeds are fairly uniform in size and weight, they were a useful standard for determining the weight of a gem. Early gem merchants and jewelers used carob seeds as counterweights in hand-held balance scales.

Carat weight was standardized as 0.20 gram in the early twentieth century. This gave trade professionals a uniform and universally accepted weight standard for diamonds.

Carob seeds and carob pods

Notice that the seeds from the carob pods are nearly identical in size. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

Carat is abbreviated as “ct” and weights are typically given to two decimal places: 1.00 ct, 0.76 ct, 1.57 ct.

Like the dollar, a carat is made up of 100 parts, called “points” and abbreviated as “pt.” An easy way to remember this is to think of carats as dollars and points as pennies. They’re even written the same way: $1.34 means one dollar and 34 cents, and 1.34 ct means one carat and 34 points.”

A necklace featuring a 25.04 ct pear shape diamond suspends from 64.24 carats of diamonds

If you like big diamonds, you’ll love this necklace. The large pear shape weighs 25.04 ct, and it is suspended from another 64.24 carats of glittering diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Chatila


How Does GIA Measure Diamond Carat Weight?

When a diamond is submitted to GIA, one of the first steps in the grading process is to determine its weight. To ensure precision, accuracy and consistency, GIA uses an electronic micro-balance scale to weigh each diamond. GIA adheres to strict calibration and maintenance procedures for its devices. These procedures exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations. In addition, the laboratory monitors and controls environmental conditions that might affect the quality of the results, such as room temperature and humidity.

Diamonds being weighed on an electronic mirco-balance scale

Diamonds submitted to GIA are weighed on an extremely sensitive electronic micro-balance scale. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

The diamond’s dimensions are also measured. An optical measuring device captures the diamond’s measurements (length and width), as well as its proportions and facet angles, which will eventually inform the diamond’s cut grade.


Diamond Carat Weight and Rounding Up (or Down)

While most trade professionals typically weigh diamonds to a thousandth of a carat (three decimal places), GIA weighs diamonds to the fifth decimal place – a hundred thousandths of a carat, to ensure maximum precision and provide an identifying characteristic.

The rounding rules GIA follows are also stricter than normal mathematical rounding rules. As mentioned above, a diamond’s carat weight is conventionally stated to two decimal places (0.71 ct, 1.34 ct). To arrive at this number, GIA rounds up to the next higher hundredth only if there’s a nine in the thousandth place. For example, a diamond that weighs 1.769 ct would be rounded up to 1.77 ct, but one that weighs 1.768 ct would be rounded down to 1.76 ct. Such differences in carat weight might seem small, but they can make a significant difference in price.

Five fancy color diamonds provide an example of relative diamond size

Get a sense of relative diamond size with this photo. From left to right: a yellow princess cut (0.86 ct), a pink round brilliant cut (0.68 ct), a gray-blue round brilliant (0.56 ct), a gray round brilliant (0.30 ct) and a blue-green round brilliant (0.15 ct). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Once the diamond has been graded, its carat weight and dimensions — as well at its color, clarity and cut grade (if applicable) — are clearly documented on a GIA diamond grading report. Also included is full disclosure of any diamond treatments detected during the process.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report shows a diamond’s weight

The diamond’s weight is prominently stated on a GIA Diamond Grading Report. Photo: GIA


Why Is Carat Weight Important?

All other factors being equal, the price of a diamond increases as its carat weight increases. Since diamonds 1.00 ct or larger are comparatively rare, prices jump dramatically for these gems.

Carat weight also helps you compare prices between diamonds with different weights but the same color, clarity and cut grades, allowing you to compare the per carat price for each stone to see where you’re getting the best value.


Carat Weight and Shopping Considerations

Here are a few concepts related to carat weight that you should be aware of as you’re shopping:


Carat Weight and Gemstone Size – Two Different Things

It’s a common mistake to equate a gem’s carat weight with its physical dimensions. After all, it seems logical that a larger stone will weigh more. This is true if you’re comparing two stones of the same gem material – like a diamond to a diamond, or an aquamarine to an aquamarine.

However, size is a function of the gem material’s specific gravity – the ratio of the weight of a gem to that of an equal volume of water. Materials with different specific gravities (densities) will have different sizes for the same weight (think of an ounce of lead compared to an ounce of feathers). For example, the specific gravity of diamond (3.52; that is, 3.52 times the same volume of water) is lower than that of ruby (4.0), so a one-carat diamond will be larger than a one-carat ruby.

The bigger the diamond, the more bang for your buck?

Not always. When it comes to diamonds, greater carat weight does not guarantee that the diamond will look bigger. For example, a poorly cut diamond may be too deep and have weight hidden below the girdle. You won’t see this weight when the diamond is mounted, and it won’t make the diamond more appealing – but the diamond will weigh more.

An illustration of a diamond showing excessive bulge as seen by gray areas on either side of the outline

Excessive bulge, shown by the gray areas on either side of the outline, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to its beauty or perceived size when viewed face-up. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA


Magic Sizes

As mentioned earlier, for diamonds that are equal in every way, diamond value increases as weight increases. At certain weight boundaries, called “magic sizes,” the price per carat increases significantly. That’s because these boundaries or thresholds coincide with popular weights, and popularity means greater demand and therefore higher prices for these weights. This is especially true at the magic one-carat size.

A graph showing punctuated increases of diamond values as they reach certain weights

Diamonds increase in price at magic sizes like 0.25 ct, 0.50 ct, 0.75 ct and 1.00 ct. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A quick comparison of two diamonds shows how magic sizes can affect price. If one diamond weighs 0.96 ct and another weighs 1.02 ct, the 6 pt (0.06 ct) difference in size is almost imperceptible. But if both are D-color round brilliants with identical clarity and cut, the difference in cost is significant. The fact that the second diamond is slightly over the “magic” one-carat threshold may cause its price to be as much as 20 percent more.

A 1.07 ct diamond engagement ring

The 1.07 ct diamond in this Tiffany & Co. ring is a magic size. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Nevertheless, for some people carat weight is symbolic, so they will pay the higher price to reach the magic size.
There is another side to magic sizes – if you think they’re unimportant, you can look for a diamond that weighs slightly less than one of these boundaries and save money.

Carat weight isn’t everything

If you want the largest diamond you can afford, you’ll have to sacrifice clarity, color and/or cut, which may mean sacrificing beauty and sparkle. Choosing a diamond means prioritizing the 4Cs, and then making some compromises. Here is a thoughtful look at determining what’s the most important C for you.


Total Carat Weight

Understanding diamond terminology is essential if you’re going to make a smart purchase decision. “Total carat weight” (abbreviated tcw) is the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds.

An engagement ring set with many small melee diamonds weighing 2.15 tcw will cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring set with a single 2.15 ct diamond. Again, think size/rarity/price.

Cushion cut diamond and platinum engagement ring surrounded by a halo of melee and natural pink diamonds

This Tiffany & Co. engagement ring has a cushion cut diamond, weighing 0.84 ct, surrounded by 0.06 carats of natural pink diamonds and 0.34 carats of melee. The total carat weight is 1.24 tcw. Courtesy: TrueFacet.

If an engagement ring has gems other than diamonds in it, the combined weight of all the stones is called “total gem weight.”


The Difference between Carats, Karats and Carrots

Here’s a last bit of terminology that we need to explain. As you know by now, a carat is a metric unit of measure to describe the weight of a diamond and other gemstones. Karat (abbreviated as K) is the measure of the purity of gold. A karat has 24 parts, so 18K gold would mean that the metal is 18 parts gold and 6 parts of other metals (such as copper, silver and/or zinc). Carrots, well, that’s something rabbits are famous for eating.

A diamond engagement ring is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase that is a symbol of your love. Understanding carats and points can help you with this “weighty” decision.

In addition to carat weight, a GIA grading report contains a wealth of information about your diamond. If you’d like to dig deeper, you’ll be interested in the other articles in this series:

GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding the Diamond Color Grade
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding the Diamond Clarity Plotting Diagram
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding Diamond Cut Grades

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Engagement Ring Settings to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

Engagement ring settings should be both beautiful and practical. A setting defines your ring style, adds drama to the diamond and protects it from loss or damage. The right setting and band can also make your diamond look bigger and even more sparkling.

If you’re looking to create an illusion of size, here are some tips for engagement ring settings that can make your diamond “grow.” But first, let’s start by debunking some dubious recommendations floating around the internet.

What Doesn’t Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Diamond shape and carat weight: While a diamond’s outline – round, rectangular, oval, pear, marquise — can have some influence on the overall perception of diamond size, the shape of a diamond alone does not guarantee the stone will look bigger. The same is true for diamond carat weight. Just because one diamond weighs more than another of the same shape doesn’t mean it will look bigger. Similarly, one diamond might look bigger than another of the same shape and weight, but may be less appealing overall. That’s because there might be many factors at play, especially those related to the quality of the diamond’s cut and how its weight is distributed.

Illustration showing diamond with bulge on either side of the pavilion.

A diamond’s shape – and even its carat weight – won’t guarantee a large-looking gem. Excessive bulge, shown here by the shaded areas on either side of the pavilion, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to the stone’s perceived size. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Here are some examples:

  • A diamond with shallow cut proportions may be physically wider and longer, but it will be far less appealing. That’s because a lot of the light that enters the crown of a shallow diamond might exit through the pavilion, making the diamond look dull and unattractive.
  • A shallow pavilion depth – less than 38 percent – can create a “fish eye” effect, seen as an unattractive gray ring under the table. (Pavilion depth is measured as the distance from the bottom of the girdle plane to the culet.) As above, the diamond may be physically wider and longer, but the stone will have a dull, flat look.

What’s a crown, pavilion, girdle and culet? Learn more about diamond anatomy.

  • On marquise, pear and heart shaped diamonds, the sides near the points are called wings. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.
Flat wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking too narrow.

On the left, flat wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking too narrow. On the right, rounded wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking stubby. Photos: Kate Waterman/GIA

White metal band: A common misconception about engagement ring settings is that a white metal band can act like a mirror to reflect and amplify a diamond’s size. The logic seems sound until you consider that a rose gold or yellow gold band could serve as a dramatic counterpoint to the diamond, making it look bigger. So a white metal band is not a foolproof solution.

Diamond ring with 5.31 carats of diamonds in a rose gold setting.

You decide if the 5.31 carats of diamonds in this ring pop because of the rose gold setting. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Colored gemstones: Colored accent stones provide dramatic contrast to a center stone, but do they make the diamond look larger? Not necessarily. One could convincingly argue that a colored stone would compete with a diamond, thus distracting the eye.

Slender prongs: A potentially troublesome myth about engagement ring settings is that the less a prong covers a diamond, the more of the gem that’s shown, so the bigger it will look. While this may be true technically, it is not advisable. Prongs serve an essential function: they hold a diamond securely in place. Skimp on the necessary size and number of prongs, and you risk losing the diamond.

What Does Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Here are some engagement ring settings to consider if you’re looking to boost the appearance of your diamond’s size.

Illusion setting: During the Great Depression of the 1930s, when few could afford large diamonds, jewelers sometimes set a diamond in a head made of a fluted white metal. The shiny metal was made with ripples, so the whole head looked like the diamond it reflected. This setting was so successful in delivering an illusion of size that it’s still used today.

  • TIP: The purpose of the illusion setting is to make a near-colorless diamond look larger, and white metal is required to achieve this particular effect. If the diamond is yellow in color, then a yellow gold illusion setting is a better choice.
  • TIP: Diamonds smaller than 0.50 carat (ct) are good candidates for illusion engagement ring settings. You’d probably want to showcase a diamond 0.50 ct or larger on its own, instead of relying on the illusion setting to work its optical magic.
Engagement ring with illusion setting and diamonds with a total weight of 0.12 carats

The total weight of diamonds in this ring is just 0.12 carats, but the illusion setting makes them appear much larger than they really are. Courtesy: EraGem

Toi et Moi engagement ring in an illusion setting featuring two diamonds with a total weight of 1.18 carats.

Here’s an example of a Toi et Moi (“You and Me”) engagement ring in an illusion setting. The total weight of the two diamonds is 1.18 carats, but they look larger because of the illusion setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Cluster setting: This engagement ring setting places several small diamonds of similar size next to each other. This technique maximizes sparkle and gives the illusion of a single diamond that is much larger in size (and more costly) than the melee diamonds used to make it.

  • TIP: Diamonds of the same or similar color grades work best in a cluster setting. Diamond manufacturers know this, and match color grades when producing these kinds of rings. So you won’t have to worry about selecting the many smaller diamonds that will be part of your cluster setting.
  • TIP: The more metal surrounding a stone, the more it is protected. Cluster settings have lots of metal. So your diamonds will be better safeguarded against damage.
Diamond ring with a cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds.

Three diamonds or 58? You might not be able to tell from a distance. In this ring, the cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem

Halo setting: When a ring of smaller diamonds is artfully placed around a center stone, the center stone can appear to be the size of the halo.

  • TIP: Engagement ring manufacturers select the melee that makes the halo, so you won’t have to worry about picking the many small diamonds that will go into the engagement ring setting.
  • TIP: A diamond center stone weighing 0.50 ct or more works best in this kind of setting because the melee in the halo will enhance it. You probably wouldn’t want to use a smaller diamond, since it would be too close in size to the melee. That combination would probably look like a pavé set ring with one diamond (the center stone) somewhat larger than the rest.
  • TIP: The prongs on halo diamonds tend to wear out faster. Should you go with this style, be sure to have your ring routinely checked by your jeweler.
Diamond engagement ring with double halo setting surrounding a 1.17 carat cushion cut center stone.

Where does the center stone end and the halo start? Here’s how the trick of the eye works. This double halo set with 0.50 carats of diamonds makes the 1.71 ct cushion cut center stone look even larger. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Pavé setting: To achieve this popular technique, many diamonds 0.20 ct or smaller are set into tapered holes in a metal surface, nestled close to the melee stones next to them. Pavé creates an appearance of uninterrupted diamonds in the band, which can make the center stone look larger.

  • TIP: Pavé set diamonds in engagement ring settings are typically very secure, as the diamonds are set into metal. However, should a diamond fall out, it is more difficult for a bench jeweler to replace it.
  • TIP: Avoid engagement ring settings with pavé set diamonds on the bottom of the shank. This area of the ring is exposed to a lot of friction, so the diamonds are more easily lost or damaged.
Diamond engagement ring featuring pavé set diamonds and a 1.00 carat emerald cut center stone.

The pavé set diamonds in this engagement ring glitter like stars in the night sky. The center stone is a 1.00 ct emerald cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem

Bezel setting: In this setting style, a band of metal surrounds the diamond’s girdle. As a result, the diamond’s circumference may appear to be larger. Bezel engagement ring settings also afford extra protection against accidental bangs and bumps.

  • TIP: The bezel setting is generally used for round and oval diamonds. It is more difficult to create a bezel setting for other shapes, such as square and marquise diamonds.
  • TIP: Like rock climbing? Playing lacrosse? Vigorous exercise? The bezel setting protects the center stone, so it is a great choice for active people.
  • TIP: A bezel setting could deaden the brightness of a poorly cut diamond.
Diamond engagement ring with bezel settings.

This 0.53 ct diamond appears larger because of the bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Invisible setting: For this technique, small diamonds are cut with grooved pavilions and then slipped into a thin wire framework. This eliminates the need for prongs and allows the gems to be set against each other. The result is that the entire diamond is visible, and groups of diamonds can look like one large gem.

  • TIP: There is a drawback. Should a diamond in an invisible setting be damaged, it is extremely difficult to repair or replace it. So Invisible diamond engagement ring settings are probably not a good idea for physically active individuals.
Yellow gold ring with diamonds in an invisible setting.

An invisible setting can give the appearance of a field of diamonds. Courtesy: Ambar Diamonds

More Tips to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

Choose a thin ring shank or band: Here’s a way to trick the eye. A thin band can make a diamond look larger. Similarly, a thick band might overshadow the diamond.

Diamond ring with thick white metal band.

Left photo: A thick band nearly overwhelms the 1.68 ct diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co., Inc. Right photo: What a difference a band makes. The main diamond in this ring rightfully takes center stage. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International

Add side stones to your engagement ring setting: This is a great way to add sparkle and size to an engagement ring – and the options are endless. You could add a diamond baguette on each side of the center stone. You could pick colored stones to create contrast. You could use different colored metals around the side stones.

Unlike the melee used for pavé and halo settings, you may have the opportunity to choose the side stones. If you are uncomfortable making the choice, read our advice on choosing engagement ring side stones to get you started. If you have any questions, ask your jeweler for help, he/she will have a trained eye.

And last, but certainly by no means least: keep your diamond clean. While a clean diamond won’t look bigger, per se, it will display that signature sparkle that telegraphs “diamond” across a crowded room – and isn’t that what it’s all about?

Speaking of diamond sparkle, here are some tips and tricks to get the most sparkle out of your diamond engagement ring.

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Melee diamond and center stone engagement ring
Melee Diamonds: Tiny Diamonds, Big Impact

Look at a beautiful engagement ring and you might see small diamonds, called melee diamonds (pronounced meh-lee), that accent the center diamond and make the ring pop. Melee diamonds are a popular way to add sparkle to diamond engagement rings.

So what do you need to know about melee diamonds to make an informed purchase?

In this post we’ll cover:
What Are Melee Diamonds
How Melee Diamonds Are Cut
Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds
Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring


What Are Melee Diamonds?

GIA defines melee as small diamonds, either single cut or full cut (see definitions below), weighing less than 1/5 carat (ct). However, the exact size range of melee varies from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee diamonds can be as small as 0.001 ct (1/1000 of a carat). They are often cut into tiny round diamonds and set around a center stone or on the band.

Hundreds of melee diamonds glitter on a table.

Hundreds of melee diamonds glitter on a table, waiting to be sorted. Photo: GIA


How Are Melee Diamonds Cut?

Melee diamonds are produced in large quantities in factories that use the latest diamond cutting equipment. High-tech machines have reduced the amount of labor required and improved the quality of the finished product, but cutting and sorting melee is still a labor intensive business. The city of Surat in India is an important manufacturing hub for diamonds, including melee which are faceted, sorted, and sold in parcels of 100 carats or more to jewelry manufacturers who then set them in a wide array of jewelry.

Typical faceting styles for melee include:

  • Single cut: A cutting style with a round girdle outline and 17 or 18 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including a table, eight crown facets, eight pavilion facets and (very rarely) a culet
  • Full cut: A round brilliant-cut with 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including 32 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, a table and (usually) a culet
Sorting small rough diamonds by hand at Alrosa's Lomonosov mine,.

Sorting small rough diamonds by hand at Alrosa’s Lomonosov mine, Arkhangel, Russian Federation. Photo: Russ Shor/GIA


Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds

The more diamonds in a ring, the more sparkle it has. Due to their small size, melee diamonds are inexpensive when compared to larger diamond center stones, so they are often generously used in engagement ring designs to add sparkle. You’ll also find them as dazzling accents in watch faces, earrings and pendants – really in any piece of jewelry that calls for added sparkle and brilliance.

  • Halo setting: Melee diamonds are the building blocks for this popular setting, where tiny diamonds encircle the center stone. This style can add sparkle to a ring and draw attention to the center stone and make it appear larger.
Engagement ring featuring a halo setting of melee diamonds.

A halo of melee diamonds makes this engagement ring all the more dazzling. Courtesy: Ziva

  • Pavé setting: Pronounced “pah-vey” from the French for “to pave,” is a style of bead setting in which many small gems, like melee diamonds, are set close together to create an interlocking honeycomb pattern. It makes for a dramatic, sparkling look and it’s a setting style often used to make complex designs in engagement rings and other jewelry.
Cluster ring featuring 3.35 carats of diamonds in a pavé setting.

Pavé is the central design element in this cluster ring, pavé set with 3.35 carats of diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The pavé technique also allows for the creation of more affordable engagement rings, as small diamonds are generally less expensive than larger ones of comparable quality. So an engagement ring with pavé may be a good alternative for those on a budget.

Melee diamond and center stone engagement ring.

Melee diamonds transform a simple design into an intricate work of art. Courtesy: Laurence Bruyninckx – Antwerp


Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

While you’ll have to make decisions about the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of your diamond center stone, it’s unlikely you’ll have to select the melee for your engagement ring. Melee diamonds are sorted by color and clarity prior to being packaged into parcels and sold to jewelry manufacturers, who will then match them to the diamond center stone.

An independent diamond grading report is a must-have for your diamond center stone given its cost and any reputable jeweler will provide one. A grading report is your assurance that your diamond is natural and discloses any known treatments that may have altered its color or clarity. However, don’t expect to receive grading reports for your melee diamonds. There are a number of reasons why, but the overriding one is economic: The cost of grading for melee is too high in relation to their value. Melee are sold in large parcels often containing hundreds of diamonds so it is not practical to have each one graded.

Carat Weight vs Total Carat Weight

When buying a diamond engagement ring with melee diamonds, it’s important to understand the difference between “carat weight” and “total carat weight,” because diamond weight is a driving factor in determining price. Total carat weight, often abbreviated “tcw” in the jewelry industry, is used to describe the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds. The description carat weight, abbreviated “ct,” only applies to an individual stone, like the center stone. A ring with many small diamonds with a combined total weight of 2.50 carats (or tcw) can cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring with a single diamond weighing 2.50 ct. That’s because larger diamonds are more rare than smaller ones of comparable quality, and therefore they cost more per carat.

Piaget Limelight ladies watch featuring 4.37 carats of melee diamonds.

Shining like stars in the night sky, some 4.37 carats of melee diamonds twinkle in this luxurious Piaget Limelight tonneau-shaped ladies watch. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The sparkle in your engagement ring telegraphs your love to the world. Melee diamonds can make it glow a bit brighter. But if you’re looking to add even more sparkle to your engagement ring, you can go beyond melee diamonds with these additional engagement ring tips.

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Princess cut engagement ring with scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree
The Princess Cut Engagement Ring — A Modern Take on Tradition

Princess cut engagement rings are relative newcomers on the diamond engagement ring scene. They’ve gained popularity for their breathtaking brilliance and fire. Discover this distinctive diamond, known for its attention-grabbing sparkle.

The princess cut is among the newest diamond cuts—especially when compared to round and cushion styles that have origins dating back centuries. This stunning cut was first developed in 1979, and is second only to the round brilliant cut diamond as the top choice for engagement ring diamonds. Its royal name “princess” undoubtedly contributes to its appeal. If you are looking for a special diamond, a princess cut engagement ring offers a tremendous amount of brilliance and beauty.

White gold Princess cut engagement ring with pave set accent diamonds

Mark Schneider’s 18K white gold Affection engagement ring with a princess cut center stone and pavé set accent diamonds has an elegant beauty. Courtesy: Mark Schneider Design

It’s not difficult to understand the attraction of this striking diamond cut. Unlike emerald cut engagement rings and other square- or rectangular-shaped diamonds that feature a step cut faceting style, princess cut diamonds have a modified brilliant facet arrangement, offering both electrifying sparkle and a strong, attention-grabbing shape.

How to Find the Right Princess Cut Engagement Ring Diamond

For the most appealing appearance, consider the diamond’s length-to-width ratio. To be called a square princess cut, the ratio cannot exceed 1.05:1. Rectangular princess cuts can have various ratios, but commonly they are no greater than 1.25:1.

Bezel set princess cut diamond engagement ring

A ring with a vintage feel, the Alvadora features a bezel set Princess cut diamond, a latticed halo, milgrain detail and accent diamonds. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

Beyond shape, symmetry influences the desirability of a princess cut stone. When viewed from above, faceting should match on both sides of its midpoint, both vertically and horizontally. The importance of symmetry applies below the girdle as well. When a princess cut diamond is turned face down, the faceting and shape of each side should mirror the side opposite.

Learn more about how to select a princess cut diamond.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring: Setting Considerations

Princess cut diamonds are often set as elegant solitaires to show off their arresting beauty. Side stones featuring crisp, angular lines—such as triangles or baguettes—can enhance the presentation of a princess cut diamond. This cut adapts well to a variety of settings, though its straight contours seem an obvious fit for contemporary, architectural diamond engagement ring styles.

14K white gold princess cut diamond engagement ring with accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats.

This beautiful 14K white gold Heaven’s Gates ring features a princess cut center stone and accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats. Courtesy: Scott Kay

When shopping for a princess cut engagement ring, it’s important to realize that the sharp pointed corners that contribute to the diamond’s bold geometry are also areas that are vulnerable to chipping. Choosing a setting with four V-shaped prongs, eight prongs with two at each corner (called split prongs), or a bezel setting will keep the corners unscathed and preserve a princess cut diamond’s regal profile.

Princess cut engagement ring with scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree

Simple yet elegant, this Kirk Kara tapered solitaire engagement ring has a princess cut center stone, scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree. Courtesy: Kirk Kara

An added bonus to this striking diamond cut may be its price. You may find that princess cut diamonds cost less per carat than comparable round brilliant cut diamonds. That’s because the cutter is able to retain more of the original diamond crystal.

Rose gold princess cut engagement ring with round cut white diamonds

18K rose gold Duchess collection ring with princess cut center stone and round cut white diamonds. Courtesy: Simon G Jewelry

So whether you select a princess cut for a diamond engagement ring because of its distinctive shape or its brilliant sparkle, your future bride will feel just as regal as her diamond’s namesake.

Ready to start shopping? Don’t leave home without learning more about diamonds and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality.

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Cupid is the adorable child in this 18K gold ring with wings studded with 1.90 carats of diamonds.
Valentine’s Day Jewelry Celebrates Cupid

Cupid, whose arrow causes one to fall madly in love, is arguably the mascot of St. Valentine’s Day. If you’re looking for Valentine’s Day jewelry ideas, take a look at the jewelry he inspires and learn some fun facts about the winged matchmaker.

Cupid wasn’t always Cupid: Go back to ancient Greece, and Cupid was called Eros (Greek for sexual love), the god of love. An irresistibly handsome youth, Eros was a mischief-maker, wreaking havoc on the other gods by shooting them with his arrows and causing them to fall in love with the wrong person.

Eros as a young man decorates this pendant from ancient Greece (circa 300 – 400 BCE).

Eros as a young man decorates this pendant from ancient Greece (circa 300 – 400 BCE). Courtesy: The Walters Art Museum.

An antique agate intaglio pendant (circa 1600) depicts Eros as a muscular, winged youth.

An antique agate intaglio pendant (circa 1600) depicts Eros as a muscular, winged youth. Courtesy: Elaine Souza, Gladstone Jewelry

Cupid becomes a child: Romans, around 300 BCE, began depicting the romantic trickster as a child. Images of Cupid (cupido is Latin for desire) adorned the walls in the homes of Pompeii, and later they appeared in paintings and sculptures by Renaissance masters. These works often also contain depictions of cherubs (angels) and decorative putti (male toddlers). But Cupid is the one with the bow and arrow. These formed our modern-day conceptions, which you’ll see in jewelry and other Valentine’s Day mementos.

Cupid is the adorable child in this 18K gold ring with wings studded with 1.90 carats of diamonds.

Cupid is the adorable child in this 18K gold ring with wings studded with 1.90 carats of diamonds. Even his face wears a sweet smile. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Cupid has two kinds of magical arrows: An arrow of gold causes the one struck to fall madly in love, according to the ancient Romans. An arrow of lead fills the receiver with revulsion toward their would-be lover. In the myth of Apollo and Daphne, Cupid created chaos when he launched a gold arrow at the boastful Apollo and a lead arrow at Apollo’s beloved Daphne.

18K gold, sterling silver and diamond-accented earrings. The bow is carved to resemble pieces of knotted wood.

Cupid is only shooting arrows of love in these 18K gold, sterling silver and diamond-accented earrings. A bit of reality is artfully added to the myth: The bow is carved to resemble pieces of knotted wood. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: McKenzie Santimer

Cupid sometimes wears blindfolds: Love is blind, so the saying goes, and Cupid is frequently depicted as being blindfolded. Unable to see, his arrows fly about wildly, bringing together unlikely couples.

Sometimes Cupid is blindfolded; sometimes he’s not. And sometimes he just sports a blindfold on his forehead – as in this 18K gold pin.

Sometimes Cupid is blindfolded; sometimes he’s not. And sometimes he just sports a blindfold on his forehead – as in this 18K gold pin. His unfurled wings and red-tipped arrow are lovely touches. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Cupid reinvented: Cupid is still fluttering around the hearts of lovers and firing the imagination of contemporary designers. Here are some reinterpretations of the myth – they might inspire your search for the perfect piece of Valentine’s Day jewelry.

These 1.50 carats of diamond earrings set in 14K gold of arrows piercing hearts is a creative way to evoke Cupid.

Arrows piercing hearts is a creative way to evoke Cupid. With 1.50 carats of diamonds set in 14K gold, these earrings glow like new love.

A Platinum ring with two heart-shaped diamonds joined by a coil of pavé-set diamonds.

My heart will be wrapped around your finger – so says this platinum ring with two heart-shaped diamonds joined by a coil of pavé-set diamonds. We think Cupid would have approved of the sentiment. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

A Omi Privé heart shaped ring is the essence of Cupid, and has a 5.10 carat (ct) sapphire surrounded by 1.22 carats of diamonds.

A heart-shaped ring is the essence of Cupid. This one by Omi Privé has a 5.10 carat (ct) sapphire surrounded by 1.22 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: Omi Privé.

Now you can bring the spirit of Cupid to your Valentine’s Day jewelry. Have fun shopping!

Want to learn more about Valentine’s Day and see some breathtaking jewelry? Read our blog on heart-shaped jewelry – you’re sure to fall in love!

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The Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring – A Symbol of Love

A heart-shaped engagement ring is unabashedly romantic and the perfect symbol of love. But did you know that heart-shaped diamonds are relatively uncommon in diamond engagement rings?

There are many reasons for this. Perhaps top among them the fact that the heart shape works best for larger diamonds – those that are at least one-half carat in size. But although uncommon, heart-shaped diamonds are having their moment in the spotlight. If you have your heart set on a heart-shaped engagement ring, read on for some tips to help you pick the perfect one.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: It’s All about the Outline and Symmetry

The outline needs to reflect a traditional heart shape. You may find some that have pointed lobes or very flat wings, rendering an outline that resembles an arrowhead. Symmetry is a key indicator of quality in a diamond of this shape. (After all, who wants an off-kilter sign of affection?) Both left and right sides of the heart should match in size and shape, although it’s not unusual for the width of the diamond to be greater than its length.

Here’s a helpful tip you can use when you’re in a jewelry store:
1. Draw an imaginary line down the center of the diamond you’re eyeing.
2. Check to see if both halves of the heart match in size and shape, from cleft (the center V-shaped region) to lobes (the rounded portions) to point.
3. A symmetrical heart-shaped diamond should also have a length-to-width ratio of 1:1 to 1:1.2.

Fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds.

Romance can sometimes be rocky, but the heart remains steady in this fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds. The left and right sides look identical. Courtesy: Norman Silverman.

You’re likely to see a number of heart-shaped diamonds that are asymmetrical. Examples of this include a poor length-to-width ratio, misshapen wings and an undefined point. Take a look at the asymmetrical heart-shaped diamond below.

Asymmetry detracts from the innate appeal of a heart-shaped diamond as the high shoulders, flatish wings and short length-to-width ratio of this stone illustrate.

Asymmetry detracts from the innate appeal of a heart-shaped diamond as the high shoulders, flatish wings and short length-to-width ratio of this stone illustrate.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Clarity Counts

Clarity characteristics can be easier to spot in heart-shaped diamonds. It’s best to look for a stone with good diamond clarity. Avoid diamonds with eye-visible inclusions that could diminish their beauty and affect their durability and value.

This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her.

All clear? Only a closer look – and a GIA Diamond Grading Report – can tell. This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Settings

Most heart-shaped engagement rings are relatively simple in design: streamlined styles emphasize the special silhouette of the diamond’s shape, which offers plenty of drama on its own. Consider classic solitaire settings or elegant halo designs that trace the outline of the central diamond in small, pavé-set stones.

Surrounding a heart-shaped diamond by melee and placing it in a halo setting protects the point – and creates a stunner of a ring.

Surrounding a heart-shaped diamond by melee and placing it in a halo setting protects the point – and creates a stunner of a ring. Courtesy: Yael Designs

As a practical matter, it’s smart to look for a diamond engagement ring that shields the point of a heart-shaped diamond, since it’s the part of the stone most vulnerable to damage. Once you’ve found the heart of your dreams, you’ll want to protect it.

Simple yet stunning, this lovely fancy brown-yellow 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond makes the perfect engagement ring.

Simple yet stunning, this lovely fancy brown-yellow 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond makes the perfect engagement ring. Courtesy: Mark Broumand

Ready to go shopping? Pick up more tips with our blog post on Picking a Heart-Shaped Gem. It gets into the details of choosing the perfect heart-shaped gem to symbolize your love.

Main Image: Per Lei single shank heart-shape engagement ring. Courtesy: Danhov

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A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank.
How to Get the Most Diamond Sparkle

Diamond sparkle might be one of the most-desired requirements for an engagement ring. A diamond’s breathtaking light show is one of the reasons we love this gem. But finding a diamond that sparkles requires some knowledge. So let’s get to it!

In this post, we’ll cover:
What Makes a Diamond Sparkle
How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles
Maximize Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats.

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone, creating numerous opportunities for sparkle. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com


What Makes a Diamond Sparkle?

The short answer: light’s interaction with a diamond’s cut. The type and quality of the cut govern how a diamond reacts to the light around it. The angles and relative measurements of a diamond’s facets, as well as its other proportions, have a dramatic effect on how light performs when it strikes a diamond.

The long answer: You probably use the word “sparkle” in a very general way to describe the overall visual effect of a diamond’s interaction with light. But gemologists who have closely studied diamond’s signature light show break it down this way:

When light enters a diamond, it travels through it, reflecting off its interior surfaces, called facets. It then either leaves the diamond as white light, called brightness, or it divides into the spectral colors of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet, called fire.

Light leaving a diamond as spectral colors.

Light leaving a diamond as spectral colors can be quite breathtaking. Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt.

As you or the diamond moves, an effect called scintillation occurs – visible as alternating flashes of white and spectral-colored light and the contrast of dark and light that moves around the diamond. This contrast is dynamic and causes, in layperson’s terms, sparkle.

How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles

Since diamond sparkle is all about how well the stone interacts with light, the environment in which you view the diamond and the diamond’s cut quality are critical.

1. Be sure to examine the diamond under four different light sources. Spot lighting (or a lot of individual light sources) is the best way to see all the elements that produce sparkle. However, if there are too many spot lights and they are too bright, there will be so much glare that one diamond will look just as good as any other.

To avoid this, observe the diamond in an environment where the spot lighting is not overwhelming. Then look at the diamond in diffused lighting — fluorescent lights that bounce light off a white ceiling are best. Third, try to view it in a mixed lighting environment of spotlights and diffused lighting. And, finally, don’t forget to view the diamond in natural daylight.

Learn more about how light affects the appearance of a diamond.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond is a visual delight in this engagement ring. Courtesy: EraGem

2. Pay attention to cutting style. The more facets a diamond has, the more reflective surfaces there are to bounce and scatter light. A round brilliant cut diamond with its 57 or 58 facets will appear to have more sparkle than a single-cut diamond with only 17 or 18 facets. Learn how to pick a round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

If you have your heart set on a shape other than round, you can still get the sparkle if you look for diamond shapes cut in the brilliant faceting style. These include princess, radiant, oval, pear, heart and marquise.

8.06 ct Asscher cut diamond from Cartier, circa 1935.

This 8.06 ct Asscher cut diamond from Cartier, circa 1935, is spectacular. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Pay attention to cut quality. There’s another solution for standard round brilliants, if you’re unsure about judging a diamond’s sparkle. A GIA Diamond Grading Report can be of great value in finding a diamond that sparkles. GIA issues one of five cut grades for a round brilliant diamond: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

A diamond with an Excellent cut grade is very bright. It shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas, so the reflections appear crisp and well balanced. This tells you that the cutter created the best possible stone from the rough.

A Very Good cut grade means the diamond has bright areas evenly distributed across the stone’s crown and few distracting areas.

A diamond with a Good cut grade isn’t quite as bright – reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkness or dullness in the diamond.

A diamond with a Poor cut grade has much more prominent dark areas or dullness. Given the choice, most people would pick diamonds with either Very Good or Excellent grades.

This diamond has an Excellent cut grade: It is very bright and shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas.

This diamond has an Excellent cut grade: It is very bright and shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas. Reflections appear crisp and well balanced. If all else is equal, an Excellent cut grade pretty much guarantees an extremely attractive diamond. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Good cut grade. Its bright-reflections aren't as sharp and there's more darkening around the girdle.

This diamond has a Good cut grade. Its bright-reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkening around the girdle. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Poor cut grade. It has significantly more prominent dark areas; there's a much smaller bright area.

This diamond has a Poor cut grade. It has significantly more prominent dark areas; there’s a much smaller bright area. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

Learn more about how GIA grades diamond cut.

Maximizing Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

Looking for more visual bang for your buck when purchasing a diamond engagement ring? Here are some tips for getting the most diamond sparkle.

1. Bigger is not necessarily better. You may think: the larger the diamond, the more sparkle. But in reality, diamonds with identical proportions, color and clarity have the same amount of sparkle regardless of size. Visually, you might perceive a difference when comparing two diamonds that are dramatically different in size. For example, a 0.25 ct diamond may appear to sparkle less than the 1.00 ct diamond next to it. But when it comes to choosing a diamond, typically you’re making a selection between diamonds that fall within a narrow size range, so slight differences in diamond size would have no effect on your perception of sparkle. Again, this assumes the cut quality of the diamonds being compared is the same.

A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank.

Talk about sparkle! This three-stone engagement ring seems to have it all. A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank. Courtesy: ZIVA Jewels Inc.

2. Choose a diamond with good color and clarity. Researchers have found that brightness diminishes in diamonds that grade lower on the D-to-Z color range. Likewise, clarity issues in diamonds graded SI2 or I can diminish the appearance of fire. Both will reduce the sparkle in a diamond.

3. More diamonds, more sparkle. Definitely yes! More diamonds, whether big or small, will add more sparkle to your engagement ring. This is one reason why diamond side stones and pavé settings are so popular.

4. Pick the right setting. If you’re looking for a bigger visual display, a prong setting is better at allowing light to enter the diamond than bezel settings that cover more of the top surface of the diamond. Learn more about different setting styles.

This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond.

You can have lots of sparkle and still have a simple ring design. This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond. Courtesy: Pampillonia Estate and Fine Jewelry

5. Keep the diamond clean. This is probably the most important (and affordable) tip. A diamond that’s dirty will not sparkle. Diamonds have an affinity for grease, so it’s important to clean them regularly. Find out how to keep your diamond clean.

In the end, nothing adds sparkle to an engagement ring like the love with which it’s given. So follow your heart and relish the moment — you really can’t go wrong.

If you need a little extra help as you shop, check out our glossary of common engagement ring terms. They’ll help you better communicate your needs and desires with a jeweler.

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Neil Lane
Q&A with Neil Lane: Engagement Ring Designer to the Stars

Neil Lane engagement rings are coveted by celebrities, brides-to-be and contestants vying for a “final rose” on ABC-TV’s hit reality show “The Bachelor.” Find out how the Brooklyn-raised artist became a designer to the stars.

For this post, we turn to guest blogger and industry veteran Dawn Moore, who mined her contacts to get an exclusive interview with Neil Lane. Read on to learn how humble beginnings, a chance encounter in Paris and a life-long love affair with antique jewelry made him one of the most sought-after engagement ring designers in the industry.

Neil Lane meets with contestant Nick Viall on ABC-TV’s “Bachelor in Paradise.”

Neil Lane meets with contestant Nick Viall on ABC-TV’s “Bachelor in Paradise.” Nick will try for love again as he stars as “The Bachelor” in the show’s 21st season debuting January 2017. Photo: Rick Rowell. Courtesy: ABC Copyright: 2016 American Broadcasting Companies, Inc. All rights reserved.

DM: How did you become Hollywood’s go-to jeweler for vintage engagement rings?

Neil Lane: When I came to California in the late 1980’s, I had a little counter at a vintage mall called Antiquarius in Beverly Hills and I didn’t really know where I was within Los Angeles or even in relation to Hollywood. Barbra Streisand and Goldie Hawn were my first clients at that little counter. I never really liked diamonds per se, that really wasn’t my thing. Actually, I didn’t even like engagement rings – it’s kind of crazy. They were annoying to me! My expertise was in 19th century gold. But I really started looking and studying these Edwardian and Art Deco engagement rings and began to love them. I would study the detail – tiny little diamonds, curves, millgrain, unusual stones, and I was fascinated.

Eventually, Hollywood started appreciating antique and vintage styles and young celebrities were looking for something different. I started making rings for their engagements. I made so many engagement rings – people liked my aesthetic and I began to get noticed.

Art Deco diamond and emerald engagement ring from the Neil Lane Archival Collection

This Art Deco diamond and emerald engagement ring from the Neil Lane Archival Collection takes us a step back in time. Courtesy: Neil Lane

DM: You were going to be an artist – a painter – what turned your creativity to jewels?

Neil Lane: Because I loved the flea market! As a teenager in Brooklyn, I was fascinated by what people threw out. I grew up in a house with antiques. My father would say, “Be careful, that’s expensive!” So I had this concept that older objects were more valuable. I was in high school and I was exhibiting at the Brooklyn Museum.

DM: Wait… you were exhibiting your painting at the Brooklyn Museum while you were still in high school? Something in you must have shifted…

Neil Lane: What shifted was, I was finding these things in the street – you know I never worked for anyone – and I discovered the Sunday 26th Street Flea Market. I didn’t even have a table – I’d put my items on a cloth and I’d make $300 at 17 years old. Then I’d go home and paint and draw. With this money I went to Paris.

DM: Paris is definitely vintage jewelry heaven! Did you go with the intent to start collecting?

Neil Lane: No! I went to see the Mona Lisa. I took the ferry from Dover to Calais and then that long schlep into Paris. My first night I went to the Louvre. I walked past The Winged Victory and ran down the hall asking, “Where’s the Mona Lisa?” And when I found it and saw it’s actual size, I thought, “That’s it?”

DM: Tell us about the jewel that sparked your business…

Neil Lane: I might have been 20 or 22, drawing and painting in Paris – studying art in the museums. But I was becoming fascinated by enameled jewelry and color and started buying little bits of art nouveau jewelry – not expensive.

One day, wandering the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore I found myself in front of a store. In the window was a demon-like brooch with a big pearl in its belly and a big diamond in its mouth covered in red and green enamel. I couldn’t take my eyes off it! The shop was closed, but I kept knocking on the door until they finally let me in and showed me the brooch. It was priced at $4,000 – an incredible sum at the time: I only had $10,000 to last me for my entire trip. I tried to negotiate with them and they threw me out.

I probably walked around the block 30 times until I went back to shop and the same routine – but this time I bought the brooch. And I trembled with it. It was my first visceral, experience with jewelry.

A dragon diamond and pearl brooch that sparked Neil Lane’s interest in vintage jewelry during his studies in Paris.

The dragon diamond and pearl brooch that sparked Neil Lane’s interest in vintage jewelry during his studies in Paris. Courtesy: Neil Lane

DM: Fancy cuts and colored diamonds are clearly your passion. What are you looking for in a stone?

Neil Lane: Shape, shape, shape. I’m a very visual person. Shapes inform me, they teach me. A lot of the cuts today are based on the yield, but they didn’t have that technology 100 years ago, so some of the diamonds are much more lumpy and imperfect – they have character. So when you find an Asscher cut from the 1920’s, there is much diamond material above the girdle and when you look into it you can see eternity. I just fall in love with these old diamonds.

4.5 carat (ct) Asscher cut diamond Edwardian engagement ring is from the Neil Lane Archival Collection.

Neil Lane engagement rings are inspired by his passion for vintage and antique jewelry. This 4.5 carat (ct) Asscher cut diamond Edwardian engagement ring is from the Neil Lane Archival Collection. Courtesy: Neil Lane

DM: Your sophisticated eye for the glamour of estate diamonds translates beautifully in your collection for Kay Jewelers.

Neil Lane: I believed intuitively that bridal would be for me a very, very important part of my life, so it was a kismet moment with Kay Jewelers. We had a great first meeting where I described to them what I thought America should do (laughs). I thought America was ready for pretty. I also suggested they should sell cushion-cut diamonds. When Jenna Dewan received a cushion cut for her engagement to Channing Tatum it got a lot of attention. The next year, the cushion collection was the best seller. Then we started introducing my aesthetic: pear shapes, marquise shapes, and it was fantastic.

A 5 ct round-cut diamond designed for actress Jennifer Hudson’s engagement to David Otunga.

A 5 ct round-cut diamond has the starring role in this Neil Lane engagement ring designed for actress Jennifer Hudson’s engagement to David Otunga. Courtesy: Neil Lane

DM: What trends do you see in engagement rings? Are we ever going to see yellow gold prevail again?

Neil Lane: I worked with athlete Amy Purdy to design a yellow gold ring with a cognac diamond surrounded by filigree and beadwork. The Miley Cyrus ring got a lot of attention – that was yellow gold. I created an Art Nouveau style ring – hand chased with a vintage diamond. Yellow gold is a beautiful thing. I don’t like to make claims … but I don’t think we’re going to see yellow gold take over again. What’s doing very well is rose gold and we mix it with white gold and it’s very, very pretty. It’s evocative of a past.

This yellow gold and platinum vintage-style engagement ring features a brown cushion-cut diamond.

The Neil Lane engagement ring for athlete Amy Purdy. The yellow gold and platinum vintage-style engagement ring features a brown cushion-cut diamond. Courtesy: Neil Lane

DM: You’ve loaned jewels to some of the most stunning women in Hollywood. Your designs are on their ring fingers and you have one of the world’s premier vintage jewelry collections. What’s still looming out there for you?

Neil Lane: Interesting… Maybe taking my design elements into china patterns or a silver vase or linens. Or maybe… a wedding dress!

ABC-TV’s “The Bachelor” Nick Viall © 2016 American Broadcasting Companies, Inc. All rights reserved.

ABC-TV’s “The Bachelor” Nick Viall © 2016 American Broadcasting Companies, Inc. All rights reserved.

DM: Speaking of weddings – don’t miss Neil Lane’s guest appearance on the 21st season of ABC-TV’s hit reality series “The Bachelor” as he helps Nick Viall pick out an engagement ring – or so we hope! After being a castoff as a runner-up on two episodes of “The Bachelorette,” we hope to hear wedding bells for Nick Viall and his ladylove.

More posts by Dawn Moore:
The Five Non-Negotiable Rules for Buying Jewelry Online
Pearl Jewelry Essentials: 5 Easy Pieces
A Conversation with Martin Katz – A Jeweler Like No Other

GIA Guest Blogger: Dawn Moore, GIA AJP
Drawing on her experience as Regional Director at Harry Winston, Mikimoto and Chopard, Dawn Moore writes about world-class jewels for The Huffington Post, C Magazine, The Los Angeles Times and Santa Barbara Magazine. Read more about her: www.mooreabout.com

(Main image: Neil Lane engagement rings get their start at the drafting table. Courtesy: Neil Lane)

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What Is a Real Diamond?

What Is a Real Diamond?

It’s unlikely that you’ll hear a professionally trained gemologist call a diamond a real diamond, or use the word “real” to describe any material. If you want to come across as a smart shopper, you’ll need to rephrase the question.

For decades, diamonds have been the gem of choice for engagement rings. But with the advent of synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants, it’s only natural to ask about real diamonds. “Real” is not a gemological term. But to the consumer, it’s an important one.

A Diamond Is a Diamond Is a Diamond

From a gem professional’s point of view, a diamond is a diamond if it has a characteristic chemical composition and crystal structure. Diamond is composed almost entirely of a single element: carbon. It forms under conditions of high temperature and pressure that cause its carbon atoms to bond in essentially the same way in all directions. Another mineral, graphite, also contains only carbon, but its formation process and crystal structure are very different. The result is that graphite is so soft that you can write with it, while diamond is so hard that you can only scratch it with another diamond.

This definition of diamond applies to diamonds that come from the earth, as well as those that are created in a laboratory. It does not apply to other materials that might masquerade as diamonds.

So, when you ask a jeweler for a real diamond, you could be asking for a diamond created by nature or one created in a lab – since both materials qualify as diamond. Reputable jewelers avoid the term “real” altogether and, following U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, clearly distinguish between natural diamonds, synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants (or imitations).

In other posts we explain synthetic diamonds and diamond imitations. Here, we’ll dig a little deeper into natural diamonds and their incredible journey from deep below the earth’s surface to the engagement ring worn by your loved one.

A Brief Description of a Natural Diamond

Natural diamonds are one of nature’s wonders. Billions of years old, they formed deep in the earth’s mantle and were brought to the surface by volcanic eruptions. Two types of magma, kimberlite and lamproite, sometimes carried diamond rough with them. The magma quickly solidified into a diamond-bearing kimberlite or lamproite pipe.

A craton is an ancient, deep and stable portion of a continent. Its high heat and pressure provide the right conditions for diamond formation. Conditions under a craton are also stable enough to preserve diamonds for hundreds of millions of years after formation. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A craton is an ancient, deep and stable portion of a continent. Its high heat and pressure provide the right conditions for diamond formation. Conditions under a craton are also stable enough to preserve diamonds for hundreds of millions of years after formation. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Most of the world’s diamonds are found in kimberlite, but the famed Argyle mine in Australia–once the world’s leading diamond producer– is a lamproite deposit. Major companies recover the diamonds by digging large open-pit mines to find the buried treasures. Over time, as the typically cone-shaped pipes narrow down, the companies switch to underground mining to capture the last of the diamonds.

Some diamonds end up in rivers, streams and even the ocean after forces of erosion released the crystals from their host rocks and gradually washed them into bodies of water. When diamonds are found this way, it’s called alluvial mining – a process of digging and sifting through mud, sand and gravel. While river sediments are often worked by small-scale miners using rudimentary techniques, large boats are used to scour the ocean sands off the coast of Namibia in search of fine diamonds.

A natural diamond rough in an octahedron shape.

Natural diamond rough is often shaped like an octahedron. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Fusion Alternatives

For most of recorded history, the extreme scarcity of diamonds made them available only to the elite. In fact, up until 1730, the Golconda region of southern India and the Pacific island of Borneo were the only known diamond-producing regions in the world. Then diamonds were discovered in Brazil around the 1720s and a diamond ‘rush’ began. Soon, Brazil eclipsed India as the world’s top diamond producer, holding this title through the mid-1800s. With the discovery of large diamond-bearing kimberlite pipes in South Africa in the late 1860s, mining began on an industrial scale, increasing supply to meet broader consumer demand. Diamonds are now mined in several countries around the world, including Russia, Botswana and Canada, as well as South Africa and Australia. Learn more about where diamonds come from.

The face-up view of this diamond showcases the beauty of the round brilliant cut.

The face-up view of this diamond showcases the beauty of the round brilliant cut. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Col, Inc.

Turning Rough Diamonds into Polished Gems

The diamonds recovered have survived a brutal birth and then a rough ride to the earth’s surface. Diamond mining companies must remove a million parts of host rock to find one rough diamond. Workers then sort the rough diamonds into categories based on their size, shape, clarity and color. The mining company might cut a finished diamond out of the rough, or sell it to dealers and manufacturers.

Rough diamonds are often shipped to cutting centers in India, Israel, New York, Antwerp, China and Thailand. Highly skilled diamond cutters often use the latest technology, such as lasers, to transform the piece of rough into a highly polished faceted diamond. Most finished diamonds are sent to grading laboratories to determine their quality based on the GIA 4Cs standard: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Every diamond will have unique qualities: no two will be identical.

A diamond cutter at Diacore Botswana examines the initial facets made on a fancy yellow diamond.

A diamond cutter at Diacore Botswana examines the initial facets made on a fancy yellow diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Diamond Treatments

Some manufacturers may try to alter the color or clarity of a diamond to make it more appealing and marketable. The methods used to alter color range from crude ones like coloring girdle facets with a permanent marker, to more sophisticated ones like covering facets with an optical thin film, subjecting the diamond to radiation, or exposing it to high pressure, high temperature annealing. The most common clarity enhancement is fracture filling. All of these may improve the appearance of the diamond, but the seller is legally bound by the FTC to disclose that the diamond has been treated.

A before and after image of a fractured filled diamond.

This diamond has been fractured filled to make it more attractive. Photo: Shane F. McClure/GIA.

A 1.05 ct diamond owed its apparent Fancy Light brown-pink color to a coating. After the coating was removed by acid cleaning, the diamond was given a color grade of J

This 1.05 ct diamond owed its apparent Fancy Light brown-pink color (left) to a coating. After the coating was removed by acid cleaning, the diamond was given a color grade of J (right). Photo: Jian Xin (Jae) Liao/GIA

Given their timelessness, resilience and durability, is it any wonder so many choose ”real” diamonds as a symbol of love and commitment? If you’re considering a natural diamond for an engagement ring, be sure to ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report . The report is your proof that the diamond is natural and that its quality is what the seller describes, giving you the important information you need to make your purchase with confidence. And if you opt for a lab-grown diamond, a GIA Synthetic Diamond Grading Report is your assurance that the material is actually diamond and not an imitation.

Have you ever wondered about do-it-yourself tests to determine whether a specific gem is natural, synthetic or something else? Our post, How to Tell if a Diamond is Real, decodes the most common myths about such tests and why they don’t work.

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A collection of Native American Jewelry comprised of turquoise, coral, and silver.
2017 Jewelry Trends: Hot Styles for the New Year

The New Year is upon us, and it’s the perfect time to freshen up your jewelry wardrobe. To help you spot what’s hot, we asked experts at GIA for their predictions for 2017 jewelry trends.
(more…)

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© 2002 – 2024 Gemological Institute of America Inc. GIA is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization.
All rights reserved.

Use of this site signifies your agreement to its terms of use.
© 2002 – 2024 Gemological Institute of America Inc.
GIA is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization.
All rights reserved.