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Diamond Engagement Ring Setting: How Metal Affects Diamond Color Appearance

October 31, 2017

Selecting the right metal for your engagement ring setting is just as important as selecting the right diamond. The metal will not only define the ring’s style, but it can also play a big role in your diamond’s color appearance. Here’s how to choose wisely.

A solitaire center stone surrounded by diamond melee in a gold engagement ring setting.

A gold engagement ring allows the solitaire diamond to be the star of the show. Diamond melee along the ring’s shank play a supporting role, adding even more sparkle to the overall effect. Courtesy: Stuller Inc.

Gold, platinum and silver are the metals most often used in jewelry. Their allure, workability and durability make gold and platinum excellent choices for an engagement ring. For many people, choosing an engagement ring setting starts with a color and style preference. Some prefer the warmth of yellow gold or rose gold engagement rings; others opt for the coolness and classicism of white metals such as platinum or white gold for their engagement rings. Yet few people consider the effect that engagement ring’s metal color has on the most important feature of an engagement ring – the center stone, which is often a diamond.

A 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond set in a rose gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K rose gold band brings warmth to this 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The importance of diamond color and reflection

When choosing an engagement ring setting in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, platinum or silver, consider these important things:

Your diamond’s color. Although many people think of gem-quality diamonds as colorless, truly colorless diamonds are actually very rare. Most diamonds used in jewelry and diamond engagement rings are nearly colorless with hints of yellow, brown or gray. In picking an engagement ring in yellow gold, white gold or other metal for your ring setting, you’ll need to know where your diamond is on the GIA D-to-Z Color Scale.

The fact that diamonds are highly reflective. The many facets of a standard round brilliant diamond and other diamond shapes act like tiny mirrors reflecting their surroundings, including the color of the band and the prongs holding the gem.

Knowing this, you can use the color of the metal in your engagement ring to highlight your diamond’s color or create a more harmonious appearance.

A 1.20 ct emerald cut diamond set in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K gold band complements the hint of yellow in this 1.20 ct N color emerald cut diamond for a very harmonious look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you’ve settled on whether you want your engagement ring design to highlight the main diamond or create a sense of harmony between the setting and the center stone, you’ll have many options to choose from. Remember, your jeweler is your best resource. She or he will understand the subtle nuances of diamond color and can make the best metal color recommendations to achieve the look you’re going for. Also, the best way to see a metal’s effect on diamond color appearance is to see the diamond and the engagement ring setting in person. In the meantime, though, here are some tried and true ideas to get you thinking.

Metals for diamonds graded D through J

All things being equal for diamonds on the D-to-Z scale, the less color the stone has the more valuable it is. Diamonds graded D-E-F on the GIA color scale are considered colorless, and a white metal—platinum or white-gold engagement ring setting is the ideal choice to emphasize their beauty. Diamonds graded G through J are in the near-colorless range, with an almost imperceptible hint of yellow. They, too, are good candidates for a platinum or white gold ring setting.

If you choose another color of metal or opt for a two-tone ring to create contrast, the prongs that hold the diamond should be a white metal like white gold or platinum. Yellow gold prongs could impart some yellow color to the diamond, making your colorless or near-colorless stone look like it has a different color grade.

A 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes set in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A platinum band heightens the icy beauty of this 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo engagement ring setting.

Like the white look, but want some contrast? This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo, which adds visual richness to the design. Courtesy: PE Jay Creations

Metals for diamonds graded M through Z

A diamond with a color grade of M or lower will likely have a noticeable yellow tint. A yellow gold band will accentuate the yellow in the diamond; a white band might make the diamond appear more colorless. Diamonds with a color grade of K or L are in something of a middle zone; you can use either yellow gold or white metal bands such as platinum or white gold, depending on the effect you want for your engagement ring setting.

A K color diamond in a gold engagement ring setting.

The diamond center stone in this ring is a K color. A gold band brings out the hint of yellow, giving the diamond a softer appearance. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Set in a platinum engagement ring setting, this 11.04 ct yellowish diamond is surrounded by 5.05 carats of white diamond melee.

A fanciful platinum setting with 5.05 carats of white diamond melee provides a pleasing contrast with the 11.04 ct yellowish diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: MUNNU The Gem Palace

Picking metals for fancy-color diamonds

Diamonds that fall outside the D-to-Z color range are called “fancy colors.” Selecting the right metal to accentuate these unique stones is key to delivering the radiance and allure of each engagement ring. Naturally occurring colors include blue, brown, pink, yellow and green. These diamonds are evaluated less for brilliance or fire and more for color intensity. Depending on the hue, tone and saturation of the color, the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System assigns colored diamonds one of these color grades: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark and Fancy Deep. Generally, Fancy Vivid and Fancy Deep command the highest prices.

Metals for brown diamonds

Brown diamonds were once deemed unsuitable for jewelry. Then marketers in the 1980s gave them tantalizing names like champagne, cognac and chocolate, and brown diamonds developed their own niche.

Like yellowish diamonds, brown diamonds can be placed on a white gold or platinum engagement ring setting to highlight their color, or they can be placed in a yellow gold or rose gold engagement ring setting to complement their color. Even the metal used for prongs can either contrast or complement the diamond in the center.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond in an 18K white gold engagement ring setting, surrounded by a double halo of white diamond melee.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond pops because it is set in an 18K white gold band and surrounded by a double halo of 0.39 carats of white diamond melee. White prongs accentuate the look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A yellow gold engagement ring setting featuring a brown cushion cut diamond accented with platinum prongs and white diamond side stones.

Neil Lane designed this ring for actress, model and Paralympic medalist Amy Purdy. A brown cushion cut diamond is the center stone. A yellow gold band creates a soft backdrop, while platinum prongs and white diamond side stones provide an arresting contrast. Courtesy: Neil Lane

Metals for yellow diamonds

Yellow diamonds were relatively rare until the discovery in the late 1860s of quantities of what today would be considered fancy yellows at several locations in South Africa. They are now found around the world. The presence of nitrogen gives them their color.

A platinum or white gold engagement ring can highlight the color of a yellow diamond, while a yellow gold ring will harmonize with the color of the yellow diamond.

A double halo engagement ring setting of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond

A double halo of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the frosty backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond with 1.08 carats if yellow diamonds in the halo and shank in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

The combination of a 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond, 1.08 carats of yellow diamonds in the halo and along the shank and an 18K yellow gold band creates an enchanting engagement ring setting. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Metals for pink diamonds

Pink diamonds are exceedingly rare. Historically, they have been found in Brazil’s alluvial workings and in Indian and African mines. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine in Australia has been the most important source of pink diamonds, but even here they are quite rare. According to Rio Tinto Ltd., the owner of the mine, “more than 800 million carats of rough diamonds have been produced from the Argyle Diamond Mine. Total carats of pink rough: less than 1% of total production.” Not surprisingly, pink diamonds are extremely expensive.

Since the color of pink diamonds is so prized, it is rare to see them set in a yellow gold engagement ring setting. A pink diamond is the star, and the white metal band is used to highlight its color.

A white metal engagement ring setting and double halo of white diamonds surround a 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond.

A white metal band and double halo of white diamonds form the elegant frame for this 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond. The piece sold for more than $28.5 million at a Christie’s auction in November 2015. Courtesy: Christie’s

Metals for blue diamonds

Blue diamonds are also extraordinarily rare and very expensive. India is their historic source, and it is believed that the 45.52 ct Hope Diamond, the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff and other famous blue diamonds originated there. Today, the Premier mine in South Africa, which opened in 1903, is considered the most significant source of blue diamonds. Nevertheless, at the end of the 20th century blue diamonds accounted for less than 0.1% of diamonds found there.

Like pink diamonds, they are almost always set in a platinum, white gold or silver engagement ring setting that highlights their color.

A 5.98 ct Fancy light blue diamond in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A natural 5.98 ct Fancy Light blue diamond sits in a platinum band. Courtesy: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada; Gift of Vincent Tovell. Certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act.

A beautiful engagement ring is the product of a number of choices that add up to a stunning creation. Knowing how to protect your diamond engagement ring setting is another important consideration.

How to Pick a Morganite Engagement Ring

October 24, 2017

Morganite engagement rings are trending – and for good reason. Morganite is a beautiful, durable and a comparatively affordable pink gem. It has also benefited from a lot of buzz. Here’s what you need to know about morganite engagement rings.

In this blog, we’ll cover:
Why is morganite so popular?
What type of gem is morganite?
Where does morganite come from?
Morganite qualities to look for
Adding diamonds to a morganite engagement ring
Setting ideas for morganite engagement rings
Caring for and cleaning a morganite engagement ring

Why is morganite so popular?

4.08 carat (ct) center stone encircled by diamonds that trail down the shank. The 18K rose gold setting accentuates the morganite’s color.

Morganite is a picture of romance in this ring featuring a 4.08 carat (ct) center stone encircled by diamonds that trail down the shank. The 18K rose gold setting accentuates the morganite’s color. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Interest in morganite engagement rings may have started in 2002, when Ben Affleck proposed to Jennifer Lopez with a 6.1 carat (ct) pink diamond. Pink picked up more momentum when Apple introduced its now iconic rose gold iPhone in 2013 and Pantone named “Marsala” — an earthy red hue that morganite compliments beautifully — the 2015 Color of the Year.

Fashion trends aside, pink has long been associated with love, romance, femininity and tenderness – so it’s not surprising that pink gems have an irresistible appeal. The color pink also flatters any skin tone.

The affordability of morganite engagement rings – especially compared to pink diamonds – puts the look within reach of brides-to-be. It is easy to see why morganite engagement rings, especially those with rose gold settings, have become so popular.

What type of gem is morganite?

20.03 ct morganite ring. Decorating the halo and band are 1.07 carats of diamonds.

All that seems to be missing from this 20.03 ct morganite ring is the bride who will wear it. Decorating the halo and band are 1.07 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Morganite is a delicate pastel pink to purplish pink (“rose”), yellowish pink (“peach”) or orangey pink (“salmon”) variety of beryl, a mineral species that also includes emerald, aquamarine and beryls in other colors. Its color is caused by traces of manganese. Strong hues in morganite are rare, and gems usually have to be fairly large to achieve the finest color.

Morganite is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This makes a morganite engagement ring suitable for everyday wear, although it is not as durable as harder gems like diamond or ruby and sapphire.

A fun piece of lore: Morganite was named to honor American financier and gem enthusiast J. P. Morgan (1837–1913). George Kunz, then Tiffany’s colored stone specialist and a noted gem scholar, proposed the name in 1910 after examining early samples of the beautiful pink beryl from Madagascar.

A 5.94 ct morganite is the star of this ring set in 14K rose gold with 0.70 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where does morganite come from?

It takes the skilled hands of a lapidary to turn a piece of morganite rough into a gem fit for an engagement ring.

It takes the skilled hands of a lapidary to turn a piece of morganite rough into a gem fit for a morganite engagement ring. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Dave Wilber

Most of the morganite on the market today comes from Minas Gerais, Brazil. Minas Gerais is a gemological treasure chest: emerald, aquamarine, tourmaline, alexandrite, amethyst and topaz are some of the other gems found there.

Afghanistan, Pakistan, Mozambique, Namibia and the United States are also sources of morganite, but for the most part, production is minor and inconsistent. While it is no longer a major producer today, the original Madagascar deposit still sets the standard for the best material.

Morganite qualities to look for

It’s easy to fall in love with this charming morganite engagement ring. It features a 1.69 ct morganite and 0.08 carats of diamonds decorating the shank. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

As you shop for a morganite engagement ring, keep in mind these tips for picking the perfect gem.

Color: The most prized morganite colors are strong pink, often the result of heat treatment. Untreated material, especially from Brazil, may be a salmon-like orangy pink. Morganite’s color is often pale, increasing in intensity with the size of the stone. Darker colors are usually more desired and thus cost more.

Morganite is almost always heat treated to improve its pink color. Heat drives off the yellow or orange tinge, leaving a purer and more attractive pink. The treatment is not detectable, and the resulting color is stable and won’t fade unless exposed to temperatures over 400°C.

This 10 ct oval morganite makes quite a fashion statement set horizontally in the trendy east-to-west style. The 18K rose gold setting includes four diamond accents in the prongs.

Morganite is often found in large sizes and cut into a variety of shapes. This 10 ct oval morganite makes quite a fashion statement set horizontally in the trendy east-to-west style. The 18K rose gold setting includes four diamond accents in the prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Clarity: Faceted morganite often does not have eye-visible inclusions, though they are more likely to be present in larger sizes. Stones with numerous eye-visible inclusions are usually carved or cut as cabochons. Liquid inclusions (liquid trapped in what were once voids in the gem) and fractures are two types of internal features that might be visible to the naked eye. Liquid inclusions tend to have irregular shapes. A fracture looks like a bright, shiny flat surface. It’s worth mentioning again that faceted morganite usually does not have eye-visible inclusions.

Cut: The shape of a morganite gem should have minimal effect on its beauty. Like a diamond, a morganite engagement ring can be attractive as a round brilliant, emerald cut, marquise or oval. Light-color material might be cut slightly deep to help intensify the color. Morganite is a popular material for unique fantasy cuts and carvings.

Carat weight: Although available (and affordable) in large stones, morganite is often cut in calibrated sizes to fit common jewelry mountings.

A solitaire is said to symbolize love, commitment and fidelity. This round morganite solitare set in rose gold brings the power of pink to a traditional engagement ring style.

A solitaire is said to symbolize love, commitment and fidelity. This round morganite solitaire set in rose gold brings the power of pink to a traditional engagement ring style. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Pear shaped stones help give fingers a longer, slimmer look, and this 5.76 ct morganite ring is sure to flatter almost any hand. The delicate halo of diamonds totaling 0.58 carats adds to its feminine feel. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Adding diamonds to a morganite engagement ring

A romantic pairing: A 6.40 ct morganite with 2.45 carats of diamonds that form a halo and cascade down the shank as an enchanting counterpoint. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Now that you know what to look for when picking a beautiful morganite gemstone for your engagement ring, you might want to add a bit of drama to it. Morganite and diamonds form an elegant combination. The brilliance of the diamonds creates a dramatic contrast to the subtle blush of the morganite. Diamonds in a halo setting or flanking morganite as side stones are two can’t-fail choices. Here are a few things to keep in mind when selecting diamonds for your morganite engagement ring:

The diamonds will probably reflect some of the pink of the morganite, so they may end up with a pinkish appearance.
Diamonds that have a hint of yellow will probably complement the morganite, making for a softer look.
Diamonds that are more colorless will contrast with the morganite, making for a bolder look.

Placing a diamond on either side of the central gem is another way to add diamonds to a morganite engagement ring. Here, an 8.68 ct morganite is framed by two pear shaped diamonds weighing a total of 0.40 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Setting ideas for morganite engagement rings

Morganite works well in virtually all popular engagement ring setting styles. It’s stately enough to hold its own as a solitaire. It looks glorious with a halo (a ring of smaller diamonds placed around the center stone). And it is artfully framed and protected in a bezel setting (a jewelry setting style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place).

Since morganite is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is more vulnerable to chipping and breakage than a harder gem like a diamond. Because of this, you’ll want to put it in a setting that affords more protection. A bezel setting is an excellent choice, as the metal surrounding the morganite protects the gem from damage. Four- and six-prong settings are also common, but they offer less protection and aren’t an ideal choice for physically active individuals. All options considered, a bezel setting is the safest choice.

6.19 ct morganite surrounded by 18K rose gold and 0.22 carats of diamonds.

An antique frame cradling a magical mirror is a poetic description for this 6.19 ct morganite surrounded by 18K rose gold and 0.22 carats of diamonds. The rose gold setting not only protects the gemstone, but is also reflected in it, adding even more depth to the morganite’s pink hue. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you’re looking for an engagement ring setting to complement morganite, consider the metal color and the overall look you’re trying to achieve. For a soft color palette, a rose gold band and prongs will enhance the gem’s pink hues, while yellow gold will bring out any yellow in the stone. Or you can opt to go bolder, by using white metal prongs or band (or both) to contrast with the morganite.

Consider the metal when choosing a setting for your morganite ring. You can use yellow gold to your advantage to bring out the yellow hues in some morganite, as in this morganite and diamond ring. Courtesy: Denise James

Caring for and cleaning a morganite engagement ring

Warm, soapy water is always a safe cleaning method for a morganite engagement ring. Cleaning by ultrasonic and steam cleaners is also usually safe, unless the stone has liquid inclusions or fractures. Rarely, morganite is fracture filled – a glass-like substance is used to fill a fracture to make it less visible and to improve the stone’s apparent clarity. These stones should only be cleaned with warm, soapy water.

A morganite engagement ring can be damaged by some acids, including those found in certain cleaning products. Morganite is safe to wear during most everyday activities. However, like all other gemstones, morganite can be damaged, so we recommend that you remove your ring before gardening, cleaning, playing sports or participating in other strenuous activities.

This 12.18 ct pear shaped morganite is framed by a halo of 1.06 carats of pavé diamonds. The white metal setting creates a strong contrast with the gem’s pink hue, making the morganite the star of the show. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Morganite in an engagement ring is sweet, romantic and trendy. It is also a charming choice – an eye-pleasing look that evokes the splendor of love.

Ready for romance? Loretta Castoro’s “Love Doves” ring has a 2 ct round morganite accented with diamonds in the shank. Courtesy: Loretta Castoro Signature Collection

Now that you’re well into your search for a center stone, learn how to select flattering engagement ring styles.

The History of the 4Cs of Diamond Quality

October 17, 2017

The term 4Cs we know today had its start in the early 1940s, as the brainchild of GIA founder Robert M. Shipley. A former retail jeweler, Shipley was fiercely committed to professionalizing the American jewelry industry. He established an institute (GIA) to provide jewelers with formal training and was a tireless advocate for greater knowledge, ethics and standards when it came to buying and selling gems.

Robert M. Shipley founded the Gemological Institute of America in 1931. Photo: GIA

Shipley developed the 4Cs as a mnemonic device to help his students remember the four factors that characterize a faceted diamond: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. The concept was simple, but revolutionary.

Throughout history, diamond merchants used a variety of different, usually broad, terms to talk about these four factors, rarely with any consistency. Terms such as river or water were used to describe diamonds that were the most colorless, with Cape assigned to pale yellow diamonds from South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope region. To describe clarity, they referred to diamonds as being “without flaws” or “with imperfections.” Cut was described as “made well” or “made poorly.” As a result, it was very difficult for jewelers to communicate those elements of value to their customers or for their customers to remember them. Only the term carat to describe weight has been used consistently from the 1500s to today.

Under Shipley’s direction, the term 4Cs became part of the American gem industry’s vernacular, popularized through advertising campaigns, lectures and GIA education courses. Within decades, they were integrated into the international nomenclature as well.

The 4Cs and the Diamond Grading Scales

Jewelers welcomed Shipley’s innovation, but GIA did not stop there. Shipley’s successor as president, Richard T. Liddicoat (affectionately known as “RTL” by later generations of GIA staff) – along with colleagues Lester Benson, Joseph Phillips, Robert Crowningshield and Bert Krashes – expanded on the 4Cs.

Richard T. Liddicoat, president of GIA from 1952 to 1983, integrated the 4Cs into GIA’s curriculum and laboratory reports. Courtesy: Norman B. Samuels Portrait Photographers, Los Angeles

Their work included not only development of the now famous GIA D-to-Z Color Scale and GIA Clarity Scale for diamonds, but also the scientific methods and procedures for objectively grading a diamond’s quality.

A 2.78 carat (ct) D-color round brilliant diamond that is internally flawless is a wonder of nature. GIA invented the color- and clarity-grading terminology that is now used internationally to describe diamond quality. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

Color: The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale

Before the 4Cs and RTL’s contributions, a confusing alphabet soup was used to describe a diamond’s color. In communicating color quality to consumers, retailers used competing systems with descriptors like “A,” “AA” and “AAA.” There was virtually no agreement among firms as to what was considered an “A” grade. Most diamond wholesalers used terms like rarest white and top Wesselton, in addition to those mentioned above. In short, there were no standards that allowed for consistent evaluation and comparison.

Since the 1930s, GIA had been working on an accurate, objective color-grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds. The goal was to develop a system based on absolutes, instead of relative terms and vague descriptions. In 1953, GIA, under RTL’s direction, introduced the GIA D-to-Z color scale, choosing the letter “D” for the top grade (colorless) precisely because the letter had negative associations and so was unlikely to be misinterpreted or misused.

GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is the industry standard for grading the color of colorless to light yellow diamonds.

In addition to establishing a color scale, RTL and his colleagues defined the methods that would be used to grade a diamond’s color accurately and consistently. These included determining the type of lighting and neutral background with which a diamond should be evaluated, prescribing precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed, and developing master stones: sets of diamonds of predetermined color value against which the subject diamond is carefully compared.

The D-to-Z diamond color terminology RTL and his colleagues pioneered is now used around the world, and strict color-grading procedures are followed by the GIA laboratory.

This engagement ring has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring.

Understanding the 4Cs is essential if you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring. This one has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades that range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3).

Clarity: The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – Flawless to I₃

Diamond clarity grading was another area that was plagued by inconsistencies in terminology and methods. Some trade professionals used terms like perfect in addition to without flaws and with imperfections, which were vague and imprecise. Others used terms we recognize today, such as VS, VVS, and included, but without any agreed-upon definitions. RTL and Benson used these terms in creating a clarity-grading scale, but defined precise categories and expanded the number of grades within each category to account for the array of diamonds in the market. Fine-tuned in subsequent years, the GIA Clarity Scale today consists of six categories ranging from Flawless to Included and contains 11 specific grades.

This precision in clarity grading was made possible by another GIA innovation: the introduction of the gemological microscope as a tool for clarity grading. Using the microscope, GIA graders plot the inclusions and blemishes in all diamonds for which a full GIA Diamond Grading Report has been requested.

A plotting diagram, a feature of all GIA Diamond Grading Reports, uses specific symbols to map a diamond’s various inclusions and blemishes.

Cut: Evaluating a Diamond’s Interaction with Light

The impact of Cut – how well a diamond interacts with light – was another attribute that RTL and his associates wanted to better explain and standardize. Originally, RTL turned to the work of Belgian mathematician and diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky to help determine “ideal” proportions for a round brilliant cut diamond. RTL’s contribution included a rating system with deductions for proportions that deviated from those.

Because of GIA’s efforts to standardize the evaluation of diamond cut, round brilliants such as these can now be objectively graded. Courtesy: Supreme Jewelry

GIA’s system for evaluating cut has been modified over the decades. In 2006, after years of extensive research that included advanced computer modeling and observational studies, GIA introduced the GIA cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds. Today, the GIA Cut Scale, ranging from Excellent to Poor, describes how successfully a diamond interacts with light to deliver the brightness, fire and scintillation we associate with a fine round brilliant.

The GIA Cut Scale assesses the overall cut quality of each diamond individually, taking into account such features as proportions, table size, polish and symmetry.

Many factors contribute to the evaluation of a diamond’s cut, including the size of the facets, girdle thickness and total depth.

More than the 4Cs: The World Standard

Using the latest scientific advances to establish grading standards that provide consistent, repeatable results, GIA has revolutionized the jewelry industry. With the framework provided by the 4Cs, it has transformed the way diamond quality is determined and communicated and, ultimately, how diamonds are bought and sold.

These standards are strictly followed by the GIA laboratory in its nine locations worldwide. They allow GIA to deliver objective, consistent diamond grading results anywhere in the world. It is important to note that although the terminology introduced by GIA has been adopted by other laboratories worldwide, only the GIA laboratory has the proprietary equipment and procedures to grade diamonds to these standards.

All this critical information becomes part of a GIA Diamond Grading Report. With it, you’ll know the essential facts about the diamond you’re considering.

1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting.

The GIA Diamond Grading System provides a complete description of diamonds such as this 1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Why ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report? Read more and decide for yourself.

How to Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring

September 26, 2017

Protect your diamond engagement ring from damage or loss by making the right buying decision and then keeping it like new for the rest of your life. Here are some tips on how to safeguard your treasured possession.

1. Before You Buy, Learn About Diamond Durability

Diamonds are the hardest gemstones on earth – they rank 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness – but they can still suffer damage. Diamonds have clarity characteristics called blemishes and inclusions. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Inclusions are internal characteristics either totally enclosed within a diamond or extending into the diamond from its surface.

Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle, can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. (A girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating its upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts, and functioning as the diamond’s setting edge.) For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns. The size, number, location, relief and nature of the inclusions within a diamond are considered when its clarity grade is assigned. You should take into account the types of clarity characteristics before you purchase the stone.

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains essential clarity information about the diamond you’re considering. In addition to providing an objective assessment of the diamond’s color, cut and carat weight, the report also contains your diamond’s clarity grade along with a map of your diamond’s clarity characteristics. Called a plotting diagram, the color-coded map shows the types of inclusions and blemishes the diamond has and their precise locations. Learn more about the plotting diagram.

Princess cut diamond with V-shaped prongs.

Since the corners on a princess cut diamond are vulnerable to chipping, select an engagement ring setting with V-shaped prongs to protect them. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

2. Know Which Diamond Shapes and Cuts Will Require Special Care

Some diamond shapes and cuts are more vulnerable to chipping than others because they have points or sharp corners. The rectangular or square shaped princess cut is one example. The marquise, pear and heart shapes are others. This is not to say you shouldn’t buy one of these shapes; just make sure your diamond is in a setting that protects areas that are more susceptible to chipping. Very thin girdles, sometimes called knife-edge girdles, also pose a greater risk of damage, regardless of the diamond shape.

Diamonds have cleavage, which is the tendency of certain gems and minerals to break or split somewhat easily along crystallographic planes due to their atomic structure. Diamonds are tougher in the directions where the atoms are bonded tightly together, and less tough where they’re not so tightly bonded. This means that diamonds are more likely to be damaged on or near a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane. Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

3. Protect Your Diamond by Choosing a Secure Setting

A diamond in an engagement ring is often held in its mounting by prongs. A prong is a narrow metal support, typically used in groups of four to six. When it comes to protecting your diamond, a six-prong setting can offer more protection than a four-prong setting. In the event a prong breaks, a six-prong setting is more likely to hold the diamond in place. The two additional prongs might also provide a little extra protection for the girdle during daily wear. There are pros and cons to using four or six prongs.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This 1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting. If one prong breaks, the other five will probably hold the stone in its place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Another choice that offers considerable protection is the bezel setting – a style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place. A bezel setting helps prevent the center stone from falling out, and it protects the girdle against bumps, bangs and other accidents. Partial bezels and V-shaped prongs also protect vulnerable points and corners of diamonds.

The 0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting.

Although striking and unusual, a tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond Company

4. Protect Your Diamond with a Laser Inscription

Diamonds graded by GIA often have their grading report numbers microscopically inscribed on their girdles. This laser inscription is automatically applied to all diamonds that come with either a GIA Diamond Dossier or Diamond Focus^TM report. It’s an optional, low-cost additional service for diamonds with GIA Diamond Grading Reports.

A laser inscription serves as a secure identifying feature, which links the diamond to its specific report data. Viewable under 10× magnification with a simple jeweler’s loupe, the inscribed report number can be matched to the diamond’s physical report or entered into GIA Report Check, GIA’s online database containing the diamond’s grading details. Should your diamond be stolen and later recovered, a laser inscription may help the police identify it.

By the way, you’re not limited to inscribing a report number – you can also inscribe a short message, a special date or other meaningful symbol.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind. Photo: Al Gilbertson/GIA

5. After You Buy, Get Your Diamond Appraised and Insured

The emotional value of your engagement ring is priceless, but it does have a monetary value. That’s why insuring it is a smart thing to do. Most homeowner’s and renter’s insurance policies offer relatively inexpensive coverage for jewelry theft. Make sure your policy also covers damage and loss. Be sure to read it carefully.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion. Courtesy: Sylvie

Many insurance companies will require an appraisal in order to determine your diamond engagement ring’s replacement value. An appraisal is an evaluation of diamonds or other jewelry, usually for insurance or estate purposes. Appraisals normally provide a detailed description of the pieces being appraised, including the exact measurements of the important gemstones, together with (for diamonds) their color and clarity grades, plots showing the location of inclusions or blemishes, and information on the properties and make. They then state an estimated value.

You can find a local appraiser by consulting a list of professional appraisal associations. Many of these organizations require that their appraisers have a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma in addition to supplemental appraisal training. They also expect members to uphold the highest ethical and professional standards.

You’ll want to insure this 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

6. Protect Your Diamond by Taking It Off

Diamond engagement rings are meant for a lifetime of daily wear, but they’re not indestructible. Prongs can shift and loosen over time. Exercise, gardening, catching on clothing and accidental bangs all may take their toll.

Even washing the dishes with an engagement ring on isn’t ideal (how many stories have you read about a ring going down a drain?). Wearing it in cold weather can be risky; fingers shrink and rings can slide around. A good way to protect your diamond is to remove your engagement ring before these kinds of activities.

You’ve heard that only a diamond can scratch a diamond? Well, storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can cause chips and other damage as well as scratches. One solution is to store your diamond ring or other jewels individually in padded boxes or soft pouches. Make sure you place only one piece of jewelry in each bag or box.

1.01 ct pear shaped diamond with surrounding melee

To protect the 1.01 ct pear shaped diamond and surrounding melee, be sure to take the ring off before gardening or performing other risky activities. To avoid inadvertently scratching or chipping the stones, store the ring individually in a box or soft bag. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring with Regular Check-Ups

It’s a good idea to get the prongs in your engagement ring checked every six months for potential damage. If this seems too frequent for you, use your yearly wedding anniversary as a convenient reminder to get the prongs checked. Many insurance companies also require that the ring receive regular check-ups. Contact your carrier to find its requirements.

Tightening prongs is a routine task for a bench jeweler. You can check if a prong is loose by seeing if the stone moves when you gently push it (if it moves, it’s loose). Gaps between the diamond and the setting are another warning sign. Look at the ring with a 10× loupe to help see such gaps and spot damaged prongs.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

8. Keep Your Diamond Engagement Ring Clean

Dirt won’t break or chip your diamond, but it will dull its appearance. You can clean your diamond by using a lint-free cloth or washing it with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Don’t use abrasive household cleaners, or steam cleaners. Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for untreated diamonds; however, treated diamonds can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners. You can briefly dip your diamond in a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. It’s also a good idea to have your ring periodically cleaned by a professional jeweler. If you follow the check-up advice above, your diamond engagement ring will retain its sparkle for a lifetime.

Now that you know how to protect your diamond, it’s time to debunk eight common diamond engagement ring myths.

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: How to Get the Look

September 15, 2017

Victorian style engagement rings evoke a romantic past. Flowers, hearts and acrostic messages are just a few of the motifs you can use to create a symbol of your love. Learn more about this captivating engagement ring style.

The Victorian era is named after Queen Victoria (1819–1901), who ruled Great Britain for almost 64 years, from June 20, 1837 until her death on May 1, 1901. For decades, the beloved monarch’s tastes influenced art, style and customs. A wreath of fragrant orange blossoms that she wore on her wedding day became the fashion of the time for British brides. The jewelry that she wore, which was featured in newspapers, was widely copied.

A young Queen Victoria is adorned with jewels and her royal regalia in this portrait by Alexander Melville from 1845. Courtesy: www.bildindex.de, obj 13850883, via Wikimedia Commons

Queen Victoria’s marriage to Prince Albert lasted a brief 21 years. Their love was celebrated and idolized by an admiring public. After Albert’s untimely death from typhoid in 1861, Queen Victoria spent the rest of her life in mourning, but her love for Albert became the stuff of legend.

Queen Victoria’s jewelry collection included a serpent bracelet she wore to symbolize “the wisdom of the serpent” that she sought as the head of state, reset treasures from the Crown Jewels, a heart-shaped locket with strands of Prince Albert’s hair (worn after his passing), and a sapphire and diamond diadem. Particularly beloved were the jewels Albert gave her, often of his own design. His wedding gift was a sapphire and diamond brooch, which she wore proudly in her bridal portrait. Over the years that followed, in honor of the floral tiara she wore at her wedding, he gave her several pieces in the orange blossom theme.

Mourning jewelry, which she wore after Albert’s death, became the style across England. In addition to the black enamel, jet and onyx of mourning jewelry, diamonds continued to play an important part in Queen Victoria’s life. As a widow, she dressed herself in black silk and diamonds.

During Queen Victoria’s long reign, a number of revolutionary inventions reshaped society: anesthesia, the telegraph, the telephone, automobiles, bicycles, the electric bulb and railways. It was a time of comparative peace and prosperity for a growing middle class who could afford to purchase jewelry. In the late 1860s, the discovery of large quantities of diamonds in South Africa put a gem that was once reserved to the aristocracy and wealthy within the reach of many.

As Queen Victoria reigned for more than six decades, the period is rich in jewelry styles. Here are some motifs you can use in your one-of-a-kind Victorian style engagement ring.

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Secret Messages

Victorians loved acrostic jewelry – using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word. For example, the word “Regard” was spelled by using a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. Regard, Adore, Dear and Dearest were popular acrostic terms, as were birthday wishes. Acrostic jewelry was meant to send private messages known only to one’s beloved. That makes it perfect for your personally-designed custom Victorian style engagement ring or wedding band.

Ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond spell “Regard” in this Victorian-era (circa 1870) acrostic engagement ring. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle, doyledoyle.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Love and the Serpent

The snake has been used as a symbol for millennia. Today the snake may have negative associations for many; however, during the Victorian era, the snake represented love, eternity and wisdom. Adding a snake motif to your custom Victorian style engagement ring and wedding band could be an edgy and eye-catching choice.

Two snakes are locked in an embrace in this Victorian-era (circa 1860) ring. An old European cut diamond and a ruby crown the heads of the snakes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Edgy and Victorian-inspired, this platinum serpent style ring with heart shaped diamonds and melee borrows two signature design motifs from the period. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Flower Power

Victorians loved horticulture, built greenhouses to grow exotic plants and devoured books on the subject. They felt specific flowers had specific meanings: Tulips meant passion, bluebells represented kindness, myrtle stood for good luck and love in marriage, red roses symbolized love, and purple violets conveyed “thoughts occupied with love.” As a result, the giving of flowers often conveyed emotions that could not be spoken out loud. Now that you know the meaning of these blooms, you can add the appropriate flower or even a bouquet of flowers to your Victorian style engagement ring.

Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light.

A dramatic declaration of love is told in gems: Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

This modern engagement ring with its floral inspired design evokes the romantic Victorian period. Courtesy: Erika Winters Fine Jewelry, erikawinters.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: The Eternal Diamond

By the latter half of the 19th century, the discovery of diamonds in South Africa had put the dream of a diamond engagement ring within reach of the rising middle class. A gem that was once extremely rare was now being mined in sufficient quantity to fulfill the demands of a broad range of people.

The old mine cut, an early cushion-shaped brilliant cut with many proportion variations, was often used in jewelry during the early and mid-Victorian periods. It has 58 facets like most round brilliants, but it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. Other characteristics include short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places. As a result, an old mine cut diamond has a very distinctive look. Advances in diamond-cutting technology in the late 1800s allowed cutters to create round girdles. This led to the old European cut, precursor to today’s round brilliant cut, gaining popularity during the late Victorian period.

An old mine cut diamond has a distinctive look – especially compared to a round brilliant. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

For centuries a plain gold band was a common choice for an engagement ring. By the Middle Ages, though, gem-set “betrothal rings” had become fashionable. In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond betrothal ring, one of the earliest on record. To bring more light (and, thus, brilliance and sparkle) to the faceted diamonds that were becoming increasingly popular, the Tiffany Setting (a six-prong setting) was introduced in 1886. A diamond solitaire is still an extremely popular choice for an engagement ring, and the use of an old mine (or similar) cut diamond will give your custom engagement ring the essence of Victorian style.

Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond.

The diamond solitaire ring has become a universal symbol of love. It has a timeless quality, as evidenced by this Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond. Courtesy: TheRealReal.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: A Heart for Your Sweetheart

The image of a heart has long represented love, and it especially appealed to Victorians, who had a soft spot for things sentimental. Then as now, the motif is a popular means of expressing affection. A heart-shaped diamond – or any gemstone – is an easy way to get the look in your Victorian style engagement ring. Two pear-shaped stones coming together in a single heart send the same message in a very clever fashion.

Two hearts beat as one in this Victorian-era ring, which features two stunning pear shapes, a 0.84 ct diamond and a 1.28 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This yellow diamond heart shaped ring might inspire your own design of a Victorian style engagement ring.

Looking for design inspiration for your Victorian style engagement ring? Take heart! This modern heart-shaped yellow diamond ring features a signature motif of the Victorian era. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Crossover Rings

A crossover ring wraps around the finger, with the ends of the band passing each other. The style was popular in the 1890s, and still remains so. It is also called a toi et moi ring (“you and me” in French). The two stones are said to symbolize the intertwining of two lives. Such a romantic notion would be a lovely design choice for your Victorian style engagement ring.

This Victorian-era (circa 1885) crossover ring, set with a sapphire and an old European cut diamond, celebrates two lives joined together in marriage. Courtesy: Treasurly by Dima

There’s no shortage of delightful style motifs from the Victorian era that you can use to design a custom engagement ring. Before you start sketching, take a few minutes to learn the 4Cs of diamond quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Knowing these will help you choose the perfect diamond for your beautiful Victorian style engagement ring.

Art Nouveau Engagement Rings: How to Get the Style

August 22, 2017

Art Nouveau engagement rings are exquisitely beautiful, but rare. You can achieve the romance of Art Nouveau style in your own ring by using design elements from the period, like the whiplash line, enamel and colored gems. Here’s how. (more…)

Eight Common Diamond Engagement Ring Myths —Demystified

August 17, 2017

There’s no shortage of engagement ring myths. Here are some of the more common ones: Bigger diamonds always look better than smaller ones. Round brilliants are the best. Diamonds are unbreakable. True? False? We investigate these myths and deliver the facts.

In this blog, we examine the following engagement ring myths:

A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better
Any Diamond Will Sparkle
I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant
Diamonds Can’t Break
Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break
I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail
Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad
A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

Myth #1: A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better

A common myth about engagement rings is that a bigger diamond has a better face-up appearance than a smaller one. But just because a diamond is big doesn’t mean it will have more brightness, fire and scintillation. A small diamond can have mesmerizing sparkle, while a large diamond can look dull. How a diamond performs under light is a function of its cut, not its carat weight. So, debunking one of the biggest myths about engagement rings, a bigger diamond is not necessarily a better one.

Myth #2: Any Diamond Will Sparkle

A common misconception about diamond engagement rings is that every diamond sparkles. A diamond’s cut – how its facets interact with light – creates its sparkle. Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver the magnificent return of light. A diamond with a poor cut will have little to no sparkle.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate. From left to right, they received cut grades of: Poor, Good and Excellent. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

You can turn to a GIA Diamond Grading Report, a GIA Diamond Origin Report or GIA Diamond Dossier for an objective evaluation of the cut of a round brilliant diamond. A GIA cut grade of Good or better will deliver the sparkle you’re expecting.

It’s worth mentioning that dirt is the enemy of sparkle. Just as a dirty mirror will reflect poorly, so will diamond facets that have skin oils, lotion and other substances on them. Keeping your diamond clean is key to keeping it sparkling.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

What a difference a cleaning makes. Oils have been removed from the same diamond, and it now has a scintillating sparkle. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

The takeaway from all of this: If you want a diamond that sparkles, make sure it is cut well; if it is a round brilliant, look for one with a cut grade of Good or better on its GIA Diamond Grading Report. Once it is yours, keep it clean. This way, the engagement ring will be noticed and admired.

Myth #3: I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant

A round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape and cut for engagement rings. About half of all brides wear one. And for good reason: It’s beautiful, appealing and can have spectacular brightness, fire and scintillation.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

But do you need to buy a round brilliant? Consider that about half of all brides wear engagement rings set with diamond shapes other than round brilliants. These fancy shapes can be just as beautiful and deserve your consideration. And some might even cost less per carat than a round brilliant. Some of the more popular fancy shape diamonds include: the princess cut, marquise, cushion cut and emerald cut. Ovals are currently popular and can have bewitching sparkle. So, the myth that only a round brilliant diamond makes for a beautiful engagement ring is untrue! Other diamond shapes are just as popular, and just as beautiful.

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant. Square or rectangular in shape, the princess cut also looks a bit different, like this 1.03 ct beauty in a four-prong setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone.

Supposedly named after the Marquise de Pompadour because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth, the marquise diamond is rich in beauty and lore. This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty. Its appeal is easy to see in this engagement ring, which features a 7.82 ct cushion cut center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone. Photo: GIA

Myth #4: Diamonds Can’t Break

Diamond is the hardest gem material on earth and is impervious to virtually all acids. It can also withstand higher temperatures than most gemstones. But if a diamond cutter can purposely cleave (split) a diamond by giving it a sharp blow in the right direction, you can achieve the same result if you accidentally hit it hard enough in the right place.

Cleavage planes in diamond occur because carbon atoms parallel to these planes are more tightly bonded (that is, tougher) than the atoms between the planes. A cleavage plane is the weakest direction in the molecular arrangement of a diamond crystal, and it always parallels one of the crystal’s triangular faces. If a diamond is hit hard along one of these planes, it can chip or fracture.

Chips typically occur when the girdle edge or an exposed point, like the tip of a pear shape or marquise, strikes something hard. Diamonds being unbreakable is simply a myth. Storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can also cause chips, scratches or other damage. Certain diamond cuts with pointed corners, like the princess cut, are particularly vulnerable and are often set with V-shaped prongs positioned over the corners to protect them from chipping.

This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet.

Diamonds are known for their hardness – their ability to resist scratches and abrasions. But contrary to some diamond engagement ring myths, diamonds are not impervious to damage, since their hardness varies depending on the crystal direction. This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet. Photo: GIA

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond. Illustration modified from V. C. Venkatesh and S. Izman, Precision Engineering, 2007, p. 54.

Myth #5: Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break

Of all the diamond engagement ring myths covered here, there is some truth to this one. Inclusions are clarity characteristics that lie within a diamond. Inclusions in themselves won’t necessarily cause a diamond to break. But if they’re located on or near a cleavage plane or another vulnerable area like a girdle or culet, they could make the diamond more prone to chipping.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle. Photo: GIA

Myth #6: I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail

This is one of those engagement ring myths that really demands your due diligence and some research. It’s tempting to think that you’ll get a better price buying a diamond from “a friend of a friend,” through an online auction, or directly from a wholesaler or dealer. After all, you think, these sellers have lower overhead, so they should also have a lower markup — with these savings passed along to you. You may be right. However, it pays to comparison shop, taking into account all the costs associated with purchasing an engagement ring.

Whether you decide to buy your diamond from a traditional brick and mortar retailer or through another channel, be sure to look for some basic consumer protections: a minimum 30-day period for refunds or exchanges, quality guarantees, and diamonds accompanied by grading reports from a reputable lab. Any seller failing to provide these basic services may be offering a deal that’s too good to be true.

Buying from a traditional retailer may offer some additional advantages. A jeweler’s expertise is invaluable in helping you select both the diamond and the right setting for it. And many retailers offer discounted diamond-and-ring packages. Many also offer cleaning, repair and maintenance as long as you own the ring, as well as insurance and even trade-in programs should you want to up-grade your diamond in the future. In the end, you may find that the savings offered by other types of sellers are negated by the package discount and additional services offered by a retailer.

All this is to say that you have more options than ever when it comes to buying a diamond. Just be careful and smart, as you would with any important purchase.

Myth #7: Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad

This is one of the more common engagement ring myths – here are the facts: Diamond fluorescence is neither good nor bad. It is a naturally occurring characteristic that a diamond may possess. Some people like the blue (or rarely another color) glow that some diamonds emit when exposed to long-way ultraviolet (UV) light such as that from the sun and fluorescent lamps. Whether you choose a diamond with fluorescence is a matter of personal preference.

Fluorescence is common: Between 25% and 35% of the diamonds on the market exhibit some degree of fluorescence, which GIA grading reports describe as None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. It’s worth noting that fluorescence is not considered a quality factor like the 4Cs (color, clarity, cut and carat weight). The extent of a diamond’s fluorescence is included in a grading report as additional information to help in identifying that particular diamond.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays. Half the necklace and one earring in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave ultraviolet lamp (right). Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt. Courtesy: Harry Winston, Inc., New York

You may have heard the myth about engagement rings that the fluorescence affects a diamond’s color grade. Not true. GIA color grades diamonds under tightly controlled lighting conditions designed to eliminate any effect from fluorescence. So it has no impact on the color grade assigned. However, the strength of a diamond’s fluorescence can influence your perception of the diamond’s color when viewed with certain types of lighting. For example, in bright sunshine some diamonds with a Medium to Strong blue fluorescence may appear more colorless. In rare cases, diamonds with Very Strong fluorescence may have a hazy or oily appearance; less than 0.2% of fluorescent diamonds exhibit this effect.

GIA’s research discovered that for the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, blue fluorescence had no systematic effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance. Even experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.

Myth #8: A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

One of the older engagement ring myths, this one dates back to the 1950s. It’s been debunked before, but it’s worth negating again. The fact is, there is no hard and fast rule on how much you should spend on a diamond engagement ring. You need to determine what you can afford, set a budget and stick to it. By learning a little bit about diamonds, including the 4Cs of diamond quality and doing some comparison shopping, you’ll be able to choose a diamond of the best quality for your budget. Remember, at the end of the day the ultimate value of a diamond isn’t what it costs, but the love that goes into giving it.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: How to Get the Look

July 25, 2017

Retro style engagement rings and cocktail rings have a distinctive look. Gold mountings, diamond baguettes, colored gems and invisible settings are just some of its design elements. Here’s how you can re-create a striking classic.

The Retro era spanned approximately 1935 to the 1950s, a period that included the Great Depression and World War II. It had its roots firmly planted in the Art Deco era that came before. Jewelry designers took Art Deco’s bold lines and geometric shapes and softened them with curves, creating pieces that had a sculptural quality. Gold was usually the metal of choice, as platinum was reserved for wartime uses. Jewelry designers also used vivid color combinations of rubies, sapphires and emeralds; as the Retro era moved farther away from Art Deco, they incorporated more muted colors with stones like topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine.

Finding authentic vintage engagement rings from the Retro era can be challenging. The ravages of war destroyed many jewelry businesses and their inventories. During the war years, jewelry designs became simpler and lighter weight to reduce the amount of metal used and to keep items affordable. Countless pieces around the world were broken up and the materials repurposed once hostilities ended.

Jewelers devised ingenious ways to adapt to these challenges. One innovation was to alloy a low karat gold with a higher percentage of copper. The result was gold with an attractive reddish tinge. Chains that were hollow (instead of solid) and the use of large, inexpensive stones were other techniques in this time of scarcity. This allowed jewelers to create a big look for less money.

Diamonds in engagement rings of the Retro era were small; in addition to the war sapping resources and interrupting gemstone supply lines, enlisted men had scant disposable income for jewelry. The illusion setting and white gold detailing were ways jewelers made smaller stones look larger.

This 0.75 carat (ct) diamond looks larger than it is because of the white gold illusion setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rose Tozer

If engagement rings of the period were modest, cocktail rings of the same era were exuberant and showy. Popularized during Prohibition (1920 to 1933), cocktail rings were a symbol that one was proudly flouting the law against drinking alcohol. The signature of the design – large and flashy – remained largely unchanged as styles evolved during the Retro period.

Cylinders, scrolls, fans, prisms and asymmetry were common stylistic motifs. Red and yellow gold were the metals of choice; again, because of the demands of the defense industry, platinum made an appearance only occasionally.

Considering the challenges Retro-era jewelers faced when making engagement rings, your search for vintage engagement rings just might lead you to create your own by using design motifs from the period and finding inspiration in cocktail rings.

Here are some of the signature design elements to help you get that Retro style.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Go Sculptural

Retro designers took the sharp angular lines of Art Deco jewelry and reimagined them with curved edges. Geometric shapes also went from having a two-dimensional look in Art Deco jewelry to a three-dimensional look in the Retro era. This gave the jewelry a chunky, sculptural quality. Current events and the spirit of the times also influenced jewelry designers. The machine age was at its height and WW II left its mark. Gears, cylinders, and all types of mechanical objects became the inspiration for bold new designs. Links resembled tank treads, and chain resembled gas pipe.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Embrace Bold Colors

As noted above, bold color combinations were common in early Retro jewelry. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds were favorite choices as styles transitioned from Art Deco. Gems with more muted colors like topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine eventually became popular. So adding colored gemstones can be one way to infuse your engagement ring with Retro style.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Warm it up with Yellow or Rose Gold

During World War II, platinum was in high demand by defense manufacturers because of its malleability, resistance to acids and high melting point. They used it to make tubes, fuses, sparkplugs and explosives for the war effort. So jewelers turned to gold, which became the predominant metal of vintage engagement rings of the Retro era.

Wartime restrictions on metals forced jewelers to be inventive. They had to use low-karat gold, and often alloyed it with greater amounts of copper, creating a metal with an appealing reddish hue. The warm and beautiful hues of rose gold are now popular in contemporary engagement rings. Other alloys created other colors of gold, which were often mixed in a single piece of jewelry.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Popular Settings

The illusion setting mentioned above was popular with wartime brides and grooms because it made the center stone appear larger. These settings are still very popular and can be an easy way to get the Retro style.

The star setting – placing a gem in the center of an engraved star – was another recurring motif in Retro-era jewelry. Perhaps the imagery offered the wearer an escape to a kinder realm, far away from the travails of the time. It’s a motif that can be carried to wedding bands to complement a Retro-style look.

Also popular during the Retro era was the invisible, or “mystery,” setting. Patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1930s, this technique results in no visible metal around the gemstones. Special grooves are cut into the gems below the girdle, and the gems are held in place using metal rails that fit into these grooves.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Add Baguettes to Complete the Retro Look

Rectangular step-cut diamonds (called baguettes) were often seen in Retro-era jewelry. Used as side stones and as design elements, baguettes created an elegant and sophisticated look.

The Retro era gave birth to a dazzling variety of ring designs, so there’s no shortage of inspiration waiting for you. Once you’ve settled on your own design, you’ll probably want to start shopping for a diamond. Before you begin, be sure you know your 4Cs of Diamond Quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight.

Radiant Cut Engagement Ring – A Brilliant Option

July 12, 2017

A radiant cut engagement ring is an irresistible combination: It has the fire of a round brilliant diamond and the aristocratic elegance of an emerald cut. Created in 1977, the radiant cut has been charming brides-to-be for decades.

This dramatic 8 carat (ct) radiant cut yellow diamond is an alluring choice for a diamond engagement ring. Courtesy: McTeigue and McClelland

A relative newcomer to the ranks of fancy-shaped diamonds, the radiant cut can be square or rectangular; notably, it has cropped corners and brilliant-cut facets. Diamonds with less-than-exceptional clarity can be good candidates for radiant cut engagement rings: In addition to giving the stone plenty of sparkle, this brilliant-cut faceting pattern disguises inclusions that would be more readily apparent in an emerald cut.

A 3 ct radiant cut diamond is flanked by two trilliants weighing 0.70 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Buying a Radiant Cut Engagement Ring

Radiant cut diamonds have broad appeal. Elongated stones can create the effect of slenderizing fingers, while shorter styles can flatter even the most petite hands. To determine which proportions work best for you, we recommend trying on various options to find the perfect radiant cut engagement ring.

A beautiful 20.04 ct radiant cut diamond set in platinum showcases the excitement of this faceting style. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Important characteristics to look for in any radiant cut diamond are a well-centered culet, parallel sides and corners cropped to identical size.

Looking for a simple yet elegant square shape for your engagement ring? This radiant cut center stone with round brilliant cut diamonds is an attractive option. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

The enchanting sparkle and alluring appearance of radiant cut diamonds makes them especially attractive as solitaires. And they don’t require extra embellishment to stand out from the crowd: Taste-making celebrities like Megan Fox sport the cut.

The three yellow radiant cut diamonds in this ring set with round yellow melee diamonds make a breathtaking statement. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The radiant cut diamond also pairs well with side stones. Shapes with straight edges—like trilliants, or baguettes and other rectangular stones—are popular in radiant cut engagement rings because their linear silhouettes are complementary. And while you’ll often see radiant cut diamonds oriented north-to-south in engagement rings, the east-to-west orientation is gaining in popularity.

Magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct.

You’re sure to stand out and be noticed with an engagement ring that has a radiant cut diamond pointing east to west. This magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you are looking for the elegance of a rectangular or square shape with the fire of a round brilliant diamond, a radiant cut engagement ring may be perfect for you. Ready to start shopping? Read on to learn more about how to pick a radiant cut diamond.

Engagement Ring Styles to Flatter Her Hand and Finger

June 20, 2017

There are so many flattering engagement ring styles to choose from. How can you be sure that what looks great in the display case will also look great on her finger? Just follow these simple tips.

In this blog, we cover:
Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers

Some brides seek a look that makes their shorter fingers appear longer. Others prefer a ring that harmonizes with them. By virtue of their shape, marquise, oval, rectangular and pear shaped diamonds are good engagement ring styles for a longer look. These elongated diamond shapes have a “north-south axis” that can accentuate the length of the finger.

Or your bride-to-be might like a round brilliant or princess cut center stone with small side stones, set in a narrow band. Such a ring would flatter her finger without drawing undue attention to its length.

Regardless of the diamond chosen, a simple design is usually a better option for short fingers. An engagement ring with a complicated design likely requires a larger canvas and can overwhelm the finger.

Undeniably elegant, this 1.40 carat (ct) pear shape diamond can make her finger appear longer. Two tapered baguettes provide contrast to the center stone. The final creation is simple and stylish. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers

Women with larger fingers enjoy a variety of options. They have the canvas to wear a larger stone, perhaps a large sapphire, ruby or tourmaline with diamond side stones. Choose a wide stone over a narrow one, to deemphasize the width of the finger. Cluster-set diamond engagement ring styles could also make a bold statement. Look into elaborate settings, with geometric designs or intricately carved gold. She can handle them with style!

A medium to wide band looks best on a larger finger, but make sure it is comfortable and does not look tight on the finger. Just as a dress that is too tight can make the wearer look heavier, so a ring that is too tight can accentuate the width of the finger.

Some shanks (the part of a ring that fits around the finger) might be constricting on fingers that are larger, and make ordinary movements uncomfortable. One option to get the wider band effect is to choose a setting that combines several thinner bands. This makes for a distinctive engagement ring style without drawing undue attention to the size of the finger.

A prong setting, especially one that raises the diamond off the band, is another good option for larger fingers. This engagement ring style can create the illusion of depth, which makes the finger appear narrower.

1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with prong setting.

This ring featuring a 1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond would look good on a larger finger. The prong setting raises the diamond above the finger, making it look more slender. Courtesy: Avigdor Jewelry

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers

Petite fingers often appear dainty and refined. So they are flattered by similar engagement ring styles. Small rings tend to look better on petite fingers. A big ring or gem is likely to overwhelm the hand and make the finger appear even smaller.

Some diamond cuts that work well on petite fingers are round brilliant, princess cut and oval. They are all good choices for engagement ring styles for smaller hands. Or consider a heart shape for a diamond that suits both the occasion and the delicacy of the finger.

Engagement ring styles with a simple design look best on petite fingers. A more complicated design is likely to be too distracting. Putting such a ring on a petite finger might make the hand look smaller.

Round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with platinum braided double shank.

A simple design. A thin, braided double shank. A round brilliant cut diamond. This engagement ring has all the ingredients to dazzle on a petite finger. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers

Long, slender fingers have the most options for engagement ring styles because they can handle a variety of gems and settings. Still, as with all the finger types discussed thus far, proportion is important.

Larger diamonds and colored gems are good engagement ring styles for long fingers, which have the necessary surface area to display bigger stones. Likewise, long fingers can elongate stones like a marquise or emerald cut. A wide band can also provide a nice complement to the length of the finger.

2.01 ct emerald cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguette accent stones

If a larger, elongated diamond flatters a slender finger, then this 2.01 ct emerald cut diamond would be a stunning choice. Another 0.25 carats of tapered baguettes accent the center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3 ct ruby ring flanked by two tapered baguette diamonds.

A ruby demands to be noticed, and is a lovely engagement ring style for someone with a long, slender finger. This 3 ct oval ruby has an enchantingly rich color and is flanked by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Long, slender fingers are also ideal candidates for stackable rings, bands that can be added to the original wedding and engagement rings to celebrate an anniversary or other special occasion. The longer the finger, the more bands you can add. It’s also a great way to update the look of the original jewel through the years.

Collection of stackable rings featuring melee diamonds.

An engagement ring, a wedding band, an anniversary band and one more to mark a special occasion – this collection of stackable rings would look elegant on a long, slender finger. The generous use of melee diamonds adds sparkle to these rings. Courtesy: Sandra Biachi

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Some engagement ring styles are suitable for almost any length and shape of finger. Round brilliant and princess cut diamonds are classic choices for engagement ring center stones. They flatter no matter what the finger shape is. For a distinctive look, combine them with side stones that add to the sparkle of the ring.

1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguettes.

This 1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond is a flattering choice for almost any finger. The tapered baguettes draw attention to the lovely center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

A three-stone engagement ring is another trending engagement ring style. The design is balanced, contemporary and works well – no matter what the size of the hand or finger is.

If it won’t spoil the surprise, have your loved one try on various diamonds and settings to see how they look. See for yourself what engagement ring styles works best on that very special finger.

Keep in mind, too, that the ring will be worn with a wedding band, which will affect the overall look.

Three-stone diamond engagement ring totaling 15.00 carats.

For yesterday, today and tomorrow – that is the symbolism of a three-stone diamond engagement ring. This stunner has a total weight of 15.00 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Now that you know some engagement ring styles to adorn any shaped finger, here are some ways to make your diamond look bigger.

Hungry for a Baguette Diamond Engagement Ring?

June 13, 2017

A baguette diamond, usually set in multiples, adds a dash of style to an engagement ring – or any jewelry piece. Popular since the Art Deco era, this dazzling diamond cut should be part of your shopping vocabulary. Here’s what you need to know.

In this blog, we cover:
Baguette Diamond: A Definition
Baguette Diamond: A Brief History
Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Baguette Diamond: A Definition

Baguettes are small, usually rectangular, step-cut diamonds with straight or tapered edges. Some baguettes are almost square, while others have a length-to-width ratio of 5:1 or even longer. A tapered baguette diamond has long sides that angle inwards. Baguettes are popular side stones in engagement rings.

Baguette diamond illustration showing parallel edges

All the edges are parallel to each other in this baguette. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

An illustration showing long sides of a tapered baguette diamond angled inwards

The long sides of a tapered baguette angle inwards. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Channel-set tapered baguette diamond earrings

Channel-set tapered baguettes make these earrings visually arresting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Emerald cut diamonds are also rectangular or square step cuts. Unlike baguettes, though, they have diagonally cut—not square—corners.

An emerald cut diamond with diagonal corners

An emerald cut diamond has diagonal corners. A baguette does not. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

In a style called the ballerina setting, baguettes surround the center stone to form a skirt that resembles a ballerina’s tutu. While the tutu effect is best shown with tapered baguettes, so the skirt appears to flow out from the girdle of the center stone, other diamond shapes have also been used. For a ballerina setting, baguettes are typically channel set, though they are occasionally prong set.

An 18K yellow gold prong-set cocktail ring with a ruby center stone, accented with tapered baguettes to make a “ballerina setting.”

Tapered baguettes in a prong setting are used to make this “ballerina setting,” which encircles the ruby. Courtesy: The RealReal

An attractive novelty cut is the brilliant baguette. This is primarily a mixed cut, with brilliant-style facets (triangular and kite shaped) on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. A benefit of this style is that it can add more sparkle to your diamond engagement ring.

Tapered baguette diamond with brilliant facets and accompanying illustration

The top image is a tapered baguette diamond with brilliant-style facets on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. The bottom image shows where the crown and pavilion facets are typically placed. Photo and Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Tapered baguette diamond engagement ring with a 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone

Baguettes with a brilliant facet arrangement on the pavilion add even more visual fireworks to the 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Dimensions are more important than weight when purchasing baguette diamonds, since they are usually sold in multiples. For example, if you were purchasing two of them–to sit on either side of a center stone–you or your jeweler would ask for two stones of equal dimensions – and not of equal carat weight.

Baguette Diamond: A Brief History

The origin of the term “baguette” for these small step-cut diamonds is up for debate. The traditional translation of the French word is “rod” or “stick,” but one meaning given in Randle Cotgrave’s 1673 French and English Dictionary is “a little jewel.” It is the diminutive of the French “bague,” which at the time meant “jewel” or, its current meaning, “ring.”

The rectangular step-cut diamond now called the baguette diamond is believed to have evolved from the hogback, an elongated table cut that was known since at least the mid-16th century. At that time, it was often used to make monograms and jeweled letters (like the owner’s initials). Cartier reintroduced the baguette cutting style in 1912, and in the following decades jewelry designers of the Art Deco period favored its clean lines and geometric shape. It was in the 20^th century that the term “baguette” was first used in English to refer to this popular side stone as we know it today. Some think that the diamond cut was named after the long, thin loaf of French bread that it often resembles.

A 1.37 ct emerald cut Art Deco engagement ring accented with six baguette diamonds and 18 round brilliants

Six baguettes and 18 round brilliants border a 1.37 ct emerald cut diamond in this Art Deco ring (circa 1930s). The use of geometric shapes is a defining characteristic of the period. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 2.40 ct Art Deco engagement ring with 0.85 carats of baguettes, triangular diamonds and trilliant cut synthetic rubies

Another Art Deco treasure, this engagement ring features a 2.40 ct emerald cut center stone, 0.85 carats of baguettes and triangular diamonds, and 0.96 carats of trilliant cut synthetic rubies. Courtesy: The RealReal

The baguette diamond is frequently used in contemporary jewelry and engagement rings. So if you want a modern version of an Art Deco engagement ring, consider one with baguettes.

A 1.79 ct emerald cut engagement ring flanked by 0.70 carats of baguette cut diamonds

A bonanza of baguette diamonds with a total weight of approximately 0.70 carats, these slender beauties bring a majestic look to the 1.79 ct center stone. The ring, a contemporary creation, shows that the Art Deco look is alive and well. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Here are some tips for picking beautiful baguette diamond:

Baguettes that fall toward the top of the D-to-Z color range are often prized.

A 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond flanked by two baguette diamond accents

An 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond is the unquestioned star in this ring. Two flanking baguette diamonds play a supporting role: Their colors blend seamlessly and do not detract from the diamond’s beauty. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

All the baguettes in the ring should be similar in color and clarity, and they should match the center diamond. A baguette diamond whose color or clarity is noticeably different from another or from the center stone is likely to create an inharmonious and unappealing appearance.
Step cut means that the crown facets of the baguette are arranged in a terrace-like fashion parallel to the table edges. Slight deviations in the facets’ symmetry are usually visible to the naked eye and detract from the stone. Make sure all facets are parallel and symmetrical.
Avoid inclusions – they are usually more visible in a baguette diamond than a round brilliant.
Baguettes and tapered baguettes are purchased in sets. For simple accent stones on the shoulder of a ring, you may want one, two or three (for example) baguettes or tapered baguettes on each shoulder. They will need to match in length and width (and taper) to fit the channels. For straight baguettes, you will need to specify the length and width to 0.1 millimeter (mm) for a good match. For tapered baguettes, you’ll need to specify the wide and narrow end widths to 0.1 mm.
To create a long curve, buy the appropriate number of tapered baguettes that range in length from X to Y, depending on the type of width range you want that curve to be. The stronger the taper, the sharper the curve, so ask for diamonds with a slight or strong taper.
Like most other diamonds, baguettes can be treated to enhance their appearance. Treatments may include high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) to enhance color or fracture filling to enhance apparent clarity. Synthetic diamond baguettes are also available in the marketplace. By law, a retailer must disclose if the diamonds you are purchasing are natural, treated or synthetic.

A 2.01 ct E-color emerald cut diamond flanked by two tapered baguette diamond accents

A 2.01 ct E-color SI1 emerald cut diamond is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing approximately 0.35 carats in total. Baguettes mismatched in color or clarity would detract from the aristocratic splendor of the ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette diamonds bring understated elegance wherever they are used. But there are other small diamonds to consider – particularly if you’re looking to add high drama and sparkle to your engagement ring. Meet melee diamonds and get to know these tiny diamonds with big impact.

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog