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GIA Diamond Cut Grade: Six Things You Need to Know

April 26, 2018

A GIA diamond cut grade is key to knowing how well your round brilliant diamond will sparkle. Cut is the most complex of a diamond’s 4Cs. Let’s cover some essentials so you can pick the perfect round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

In this blog, we cover:

Diamond cut quality and why it’s important
What goes into a GIA diamond cut grade
Diamond sparkle and face-up appearance
Why diamond proportions are important
Design, craftsmanship and the GIA diamond cut grade
How GIA assigns a diamond cut grade

1. Diamond cut quality and why it’s important

The most popular diamond in the marketplace is the round brilliant. Experts estimate that this cut alone accounts for more than 70% of all diamonds sold today. The quality of a round brilliant diamond’s cut determines how much the diamond sparkles. To pick a diamond whose flashes of light enchant the eye, you need to know the 4Cs of diamond quality, the universal standard for judging diamonds: color, cut, clarity and carat weight. All else being equal, the better the cut grade, the more valuable the diamond.

Some professionals consider cut the most important C of diamond quality. A well-cut round brilliant delivers that unmistakable, stop-in-your-tracks light show that telegraphs “diamond” across a crowded room. If the diamond is well cut, most compromises in clarity, color and even carat weight can be forgiven. A diamond’s cut grade is also an indication of how well it was designed and crafted. So, understanding the diamond cut grade is key to picking a round brilliant that’s not only beautiful, but also the best value.

2. What goes into a GIA diamond cut grade

In arriving at its cut grading system, GIA spent 15 years studying how light behaves within a round brilliant cut diamond. GIA’s aim was to understand the factors that contribute to a round brilliant’s appearance and to determine which of those factors – or combination of factors – produce diamonds that people consider attractive.

GIA’s research included the use of advanced computer modeling to analyze tens of thousands of possible proportion combinations. GIA then validated its research with human subjects, conducting more than 70,000 observations on actual diamonds, to determine which diamonds people found appealing and why.

The result was the GIA Cut Grading System, which evaluates the cut quality of a round brilliant diamond along a five-point scale ranging from Excellent to Poor.

A GIA cut grade evaluates:

How the diamond appears when viewed face-up based on the attributes of brightness, fire and scintillation
How well the diamond was designed to ensure durability and optimal weight
The quality of the workmanship or craftsmanship that went into aligning and polishing the diamond’s facets

The GIA diamond cut grade is based on seven factors: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry.

A 2.02 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.

This 2.02 carat (ct) round brilliant has excellent cut, polish and symmetry. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 1.01 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring that received an Excellent cut grade from GIA.

The reason behind the sparkle of this 1.01 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring is the quality of the diamond’s cut. The diamond received an Excellent cut grade from GIA. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Diamond sparkle and face-up appearance

A key component of a GIA diamond cut grade is the diamond’s face-up appearance – or how the diamond looks when viewed from above, as if it was set in an engagement ring. People love diamonds for their dazzling interplay with light – which the layperson often translates as “sparkle.” But there’s a lot more going on here.

When you see internal and external white light reflected from a diamond, you’re noticing “brightness.” If you see the scattering of light into all the colors of the rainbow, you’re being treated to “fire.” Sparkle is actually “scintillation,” the pattern of bright and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond as it or the light source moves. What you might consider “sparkle” is really the overall visual effect of these three factors. A GIA cut grade includes an assessment of how well a diamond delivers on each of these attributes.

Round brilliant cut diamond showing good brightness, fire and scintillation when the diamond is moved.

This round brilliant cut diamond shows good brightness and fire. Scintillation, the pattern of light and dark areas and the flashes of light, or sparkle, can only be seen when a diamond is moved. Copyright: GIA & Harold and Erica Van Pelt

4. Why diamond proportions are important

A diamond’s proportions – its crown and pavilion angles and the relative measurements of its facets – are key contributors to a diamond’s overall face-up appearance. Remember that facets are tiny mirrors. Their size and placement will influence how light behaves as it passes through the diamond and back to your eye.

A diamond’s proportions can help predict how well a diamond will deliver brightness, fire and scintillation. However, an important outcome of GIA’s cut research was the finding that there is no single set of proportions that defines a well-cut round brilliant diamond. In fact, diamonds with different proportions can receive the same cut grade. The diamonds may look and perform differently but they will still have a similar impact on the observer. So, as a diamond shopper, you need to look beyond the measurements on a grading report. Be sure to view a diamond in person to see if it’s the right choice for you.

An illustration demonstrating the proportions that affect a diamond’s cut grade.

This graphic illustrates the proportions that affect a diamond’s cut grade. The crown and pavilion angles and the relative measurements of its facets contribute to a diamond’s brightness, fire and scintillation.

5. Design, craftsmanship and the GIA diamond cut grade

While face-up appearance is all about how a diamond looks, design and craftsmanship evaluate the quality of the diamond’s manufacture. Poor design could add unnecessary weight to a diamond or cause durability issues that would prevent you from enjoying it for a lifetime. A diamond with poor craftsmanship won’t deliver much in the way of brightness, fire and scintillation. In evaluating these two components, the GIA Cut Grading System takes into account the diamond’s physical shape, its proportions, its weight ratio, and the care that went into fashioning and polishing its facets.

Design
Design refers to decisions made during the fashioning process that determine the diamond’s physical shape, as seen in its proportions, weight ratio and durability. Weight ratio is the diamond’s weight in relation to its average girdle diameter (a fairly complex mathematical equation). A diamond with a smaller girdle diameter relative to its weight might appear smaller face-up than its well-designed counterpart, because much of the weight would be “hidden” in the overall depth of the diamond. For example, while a diamond with a thicker girdle could look great, the girdle is hiding unnecessary weight. As a result, you might end up paying more for a heavier diamond with no greater visual impact for the added cost. The bottom line: A diamond should not weigh more than its face-up size would indicate.

Image showing a diamond with a much thicker girdle (right) than the diamond on the left.

These pictures show the importance of weight ratio. Both of these diamonds have the same average girdle diameters, so face-up they appear to be the same size. But the diamond on the right has a much thicker girdle, so it weighs more (0.71 ct vs. 0.61 ct). The thicker girdle has no visual benefit, but the added weight will make the diamond more expensive. Photos: Maha Tannous/GIA

Durability in the case of a round brilliant diamond refers to the risk of damage that might result from an extremely thin girdle. Such a girdle can make a diamond highly vulnerable to damage during the jewelry setting procedure or even normal wear. Considering how much a diamond costs and its emotional significance, you want to avoid one that is susceptible to damage. A GIA Diamond Grading Report can eliminate this concern.

A 1.35 carat diamond with girdle areas very think to extremely thin.

Here is an example of why durability is important. This 1.35 ct diamond has girdle areas that are very thin to extremely thin, making it more susceptible to damage during everyday wear. Courtesy: Gary Roskin, G.G., F.G.A.

Craftsmanship

Craftsmanship describes the care that went into fashioning the diamond, as seen in its polish and symmetry. Polish refers to the overall quality and condition of the facet surfaces. It includes evaluation of any blemishes created by the polishing process or during wear. Polish is critical to the mirror-like performance of a diamond’s facets.

Diamond (left) showing lines created during polishing and diamond (right) with abraded facet junctions.

The diamond on the left shows lines created during the polishing process. The diamond on the right has abraded facet junctions caused by wear. Polish lines and abraded facet junctions can also affect a diamond’s clarity grade. Photos: Mitchell Moore/GIA

Symmetry is the exactness of a finished diamond’s shape and the arrangement and placement of its facets. A symmetrical diamond has an even display of brightness, fire and scintillation. A diamond with poor symmetry will have poor light performance, meaning that it’s likely to look flat.

An illustration showing all eight sections of a round brilliant identically. Illustration: GIA

All eight sections of a round brilliant cut diamond should be identical. This symmetry will help produce even brightness, fire and scintillation. Illustration: GIA

6. How GIA assigns a diamond cut grade

GIA evaluates a round brilliant diamond’s cut based on seven components – brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry – to arrive at a GIA diamond cut grade, which ranges from Excellent to Poor. The grade is set by the lowest assessment the diamond receives for five of the seven components. In other words, if a diamond receives a Poor grade for brightness, then the highest its overall cut grade can be is Poor. The exceptions are polish and symmetry, which are assessed using standard GIA grading methodology: A diamond with Very Good polish and/or symmetry, for example, may receive an Excellent cut grade.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains the diamond’s full cut assessment, in addition to a diagram showing the diamond’s proportions and relative measurements. Consider the report an invaluable tool in helping you pick a dazzling diamond.

The official GIA Cut Scale for round brilliant cut diamonds. Illustration: GIA

While knowing a diamond’s cut grade is essential, it shouldn’t be a substitute for seeing a diamond in person. As mentioned above, a diamond cut grade represents a range. For example, two diamonds with an Excellent Cut Grade may look – and perform – very differently. In addition, a diamond will look different under various lighting conditions, so you should take it for a test drive, so to speak. Last, you need to fall in love with the diamond – and no report can substitute for what stirs your heart.

A 2.03 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with Excellent cut.

An Excellent cut grade makes this 2.03 ct round brilliant diamond mesmerizing. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Diamond cut is extremely important. So is diamond color. Learn about it, too, so you can pick a spellbinding diamond.

Seven Things You Need to Know About Diamond Clarity

April 17, 2018

Diamond clarity is the relative absence of inclusions and blemishes. You should know about this 4Cs quality factor because it affects a diamond’s beauty and value. To understand what a diamond clarity is, use these tips to help you shop smartly:

Inclusions and blemishes are not “flaws”
When it comes to diamond clarity, less is more
Learn the grades on the GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – the global standard
Find out how GIA grades diamond clarity
Treatments can improve diamond clarity – but it’s not all good
Certain types of inclusions can make a diamond more vulnerable to damage
To be sure of diamond clarity, get a GIA grading report

1. Inclusions and blemishes are not “flaws”

Diamond clarity is one of the 4Cs (the others being color, cut and carat weight). It plays an important role in determining a diamond’s overall beauty and ultimately its value. Diamond clarity refers to inclusions in the diamond and blemishes on its surface.

Inclusions and blemishes can result from a diamond’s formation, its crystal structure, the cutting-polishing-setting processes, or general wear. Inclusions can be totally enclosed within the diamond or they can extend into the diamond from its surface. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Gemologists use 10× magnification to determine a clarity grade.

You may hear some people describe inclusions and blemishes as “flaws.” But most gemologists think of them instead as powerful identification tools. Inclusions can help in the separation of some natural diamonds and synthetic diamonds. And because most diamonds have a unique combination of inclusions and blemishes, these clarity characteristics act like fingerprints, giving each diamond its own identity.

If you’re wondering whether your diamond’s laser inscription is considered a blemish or inclusion – the answer is neither. A laser inscription is not considered a clarity characteristic.

To help you understand what diamond clarity is, here are pictures and descriptions of 16 types of inclusions and 11 types of blemishes commonly seen in diamonds.

2. When it comes to diamond clarity, less is more

When it comes to diamond clarity and value – like diamond color and value – less is always more. Diamonds with few or no clarity characteristics are rare and because rarity drives price, they will cost more. In fact, diamonds without any visible clarity characteristics under a 10× jeweler’s loupe are called “flawless.” These diamonds are so rare that many jewelers may never see one in their career.

Less expensive diamonds often have inclusions that can be seen with the unaided eye. Most faceted diamonds fall between the two extremes – they have inclusions visible only with magnification.

Diamond clarity affects a diamond’s appearance. A diamond with many inclusions and blemishes can look off-color, pitted and scratched. This diamond has a clarity grade of I3. Photo: GIA

Clarity characteristics may be more visible in certain diamond cuts than others. For example, they will typically be easier to see in an emerald cut diamond compared to a round brilliant cut diamond. The long, rectangular facets that are characteristic of emerald cut diamonds make inclusions more readily visible than among the many smaller facets of a brilliant cut. However, if a diamond has many large clarity features, or if they are mirrored by the diamond’s many facets, they will be easy to see – no matter the shape or cutting style.

A 163.41 carat D-Flawless emerald cut diamond.

This 163.41 carat (ct) D-Flawless emerald cut diamond is a thing of uncommon beauty. Inclusions or blemishes visible with the unaided eye would mar its appearance. Courtesy: Christie’s

It’s worth noting that inclusions normally have more impact on a stone’s beauty and value than blemishes. This is because many blemishes are easy to remove. A fashioned diamond can sometimes be recut or repolished to eliminate blemishes and possibly improve its clarity grade.

Diagram illustrating the effect of clarity on the value of diamonds

If all other factors are equal, as clarity increases so does diamond price per carat. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

3. Learn the grades on the GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – the global standard

Diamond clarity is described using standard terminology developed by GIA in the 1950s. The grades are based, in part, on the visibility of inclusions and blemishes with 10× magnification by a trained grader. The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale is used to decide what diamond clarity is. It has six categories, some of which are subdivided, for a total of 11 specific grades for natural diamonds.

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has 11 grades, which range from Flawless to I3.

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has 11 grades, which range from Flawless to I₃.

Flawless (FL): No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
Internally Flawless (IF): No inclusions and only insignificant blemishes visible under 10x magnification
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS₁ and VVS₂): Minute inclusions that range from extremely difficult (VVS₁) to very difficult (VVS₂) to see under 10x magnification
Very Slightly Included (VS₁ and VS₂): Minor inclusions that range from difficult (VS₁) to somewhat easy (VS₂) to see at 10x magnification.
Slightly Included (SI₁ and SI₂): Noticeable inclusions that are easy (SI₁) or very easy (SI₂) to see at 10x magnification
Included (I₁, I₂ and I₃): Inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification – and often visible with the unaided eye – which may affect transparency and brilliance

An internally flawless 2.78 carat D-color round brilliant cut diamond.

This 2.78 ct D-color round brilliant cut diamond is Internally Flawless. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

Here are two other terms you might come across.

Eye clean – This is an industry term for a diamond whose inclusions cannot be seen with the naked eye. Some shoppers may feel, “If I can’t see an inclusion or blemish, the diamond is beautiful enough for me.” An eye-clean diamond may fit the bill in these cases. GIA does not use this term.
SI₃ – Some diamond grading labs issue a clarity grade of SI₃. GIA does not. The Institute has studied the SI₃ suggestion at various times over the years. GIA still concludes there is no reason to change its long-standing and universally accepted diamond grading system.

A 1.40 ct F color, SI1 clarity round brilliant cut diamond in a six-prong platinum engagement ring setting with 0.20 carats of diamond melee in an 18K rose gold shank.

The beauty of this 1.40 ct F color, SI₁ clarity round brilliant cut diamond is undeniable. The six-prong platinum basket and 0.20 carats of diamond melee in an 18K rose gold shank add extra charm. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

4. Find out how GIA grades diamond clarity

Just as GIA developed the globally recognized terms for grading diamond clarity, it also developed the processes for objective and unbiased diamond clarity grading . GIA procedures include viewing a diamond under controlled lighting conditions, using specific viewing angles and distances, and following precise steps that ensure every part of the diamond is examined to locate all the inclusions and blemishes that might affect its clarity.

A GIA diamond grader examines the diamond using her trained eye, a 10× jeweler’s loupe and sometimes a microscope at increased magnification. However, the final clarity grade is always determined by the diamond’s appearance under a 10× jeweler’s loupe.

In arriving at a clarity grade, the grader takes into account five factors:

Size – When all factors are equal, the larger the inclusion and the more visible it is, the lower the diamond’s clarity grade.
Number – When all other factors are equal, the more inclusions or reflections of inclusions that are visible face-up at 10× magnification, the greater their effect on the clarity grade.
Location – Refers to the position of an inclusion. The closer an inclusion is to the center of the table, the greater its effect on the clarity grade.
Relief – Refers to the contrast between the inclusion and the diamond. Generally, the more an inclusion differs in brightness, darkness or color from the diamond, the more visible it is and the greater its impact on clarity.
Nature – Refers to the type of characteristic and its inherent effect on the diamond. In other words, some inclusions or blemishes can have greater impact on clarity than others.

A diamond may have many tiny inclusions and still be high on the clarity scale. Ultimately, it’s the combination of these five factors that affects the overall clarity appearance. Blemishes, in contrast, can often be removed when a diamond is polished or repolished, so they rarely have an effect on grades lower than IF.

A 10.21 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring with a clarity grade of VS2.

The 10.21 ct emerald cut diamond featured in this engagement ring received a diamond clarity grade of VS₂. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

5. Treatments can improve diamond clarity – but it’s not all good

Manufacturers sometimes try to improve diamond clarity to make stones more attractive and more valuable. Here are two common methods used to accomplish this.

Laser drilling makes it possible to remove or lighten inclusions deep inside the stone. The laser creates a narrow channel from the surface to a dark inclusion in the diamond. If the included material is not vaporized by the laser, it is dissolved or “bleached” with a strong acid introduced via the channel. The resulting white appearance is generally considered more appealing than a dark spot that does not return light. Because the treatment is permanent (the inclusion will not come back or darken), GIA grades laser-drilled diamonds, but it records the resulting drill holes as inclusion features that may impact the clarity of the diamond.

A 30× magnification photo of a diamond showing a thin channel that been laser drilled from the surface to a large inclusion.

As seen here with 30× magnification, a thin channel has been laser drilled from the surface of the diamond to a large inclusion that was then vaporized or dissolved. Photo: Vincent Cracco/GIA

Fracture filling is the filling of surface-reaching fissures, fractures and laser drill holes with a glass-like material that has a refractive index close to that of diamond. Fracture filling doesn’t “heal” the fracture or improve the diamond’s actual clarity. The original fracture is still there, it’s just more difficult to see. However, this treatment is not permanent, and tales abound of fracture-filled diamonds that have been damaged when exposed to high heat during some jewelry repair, setting or cleaning procedures. As a result, many laboratories – including GIA – will not grade fracture-filled diamonds, and the fact the diamond has been fracture filled must be disclosed by the seller.

$A before photo showing a 0.20 carat diamond with visible fractures and after filled with a glass-like substance.$

A 0.20 ct diamond with large, highly visible reflective fractures is shown here before (left) and after (right) filling with a glass-like substance. Photos: Shane F. McClure/GIA

6. Certain types of inclusions can make a diamond more vulnerable to damage

Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle – the narrow section that separates the diamond’s upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts and functions as its setting edge – can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns.

The GIA Diamond Grading Report for diamonds on the D-to-Z color scale featuring a plotting diagram.

The GIA Diamond Grading Report for diamonds on the D-to-Z color scale features a plotting diagram (bottom center panel), which maps a diamond’s inclusions and blemishes as viewed from the crown (left) and pavilion (right).

7. To be sure of diamond clarity, get a GIA grading report

The GIA Diamond Grading Report, the GIA Diamond Origin Report and the GIA Diamond Dossier provide an objective, unbiased assessment of diamond clarity along with the other “Cs” of diamond quality.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Origin Report contain a plotting diagram that maps the diamond’s inclusions and blemishes. The diagram shows the diamond’s shape and facet arrangements as seen from two views: the crown and pavilion. Symbols are used to represent the type, location, relative size and sometimes the shape of the clarity characteristics being plotted. In addition to providing details about a diamond’s clarity features and describing the diamond’s clarity, the diagram can also assist in diamond identification. No two diamonds below Flawless and Internally Flawless have exactly the same combination or placement of clarity characteristics.

A 1.05 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by a double halo of diamond melee in an 18K white and rose gold setting.

In this engagement ring, a 1.05 ct round brilliant cut diamond is surrounded by a double halo of diamond melee in an 18K white and rose gold setting. The many facets of a brilliant cut diamond make inclusions less visible than they would be in some other cuts, such as the emerald cut. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Now that you’ve brushed up on some diamond clarity essentials and know what color and clarity grades are good for your diamond, you just might be wondering: What’s the most important C of diamond quality?

How to Choose a Yellow Diamond Engagement Ring

April 4, 2018

A yellow diamond engagement ring is a stunning choice to celebrate your love. But picking the perfect engagement ring requires knowing about yellow diamonds, mountings, the effect of metals on appearance, treatments and more. We offer help.

Here are a few things you’ll need to know:
A fancy-color yellow diamond falls outside the GIA D-to-Z color range
GIA assigns one of six “fancy” color grades to your yellow diamond engagement ring
Don’t expect a round diamond for your yellow diamond engagement ring
Mountings can make a yellow diamond look darker
The metal used affects the appearance of a yellow diamond engagement ring
Some yellow diamonds might be treated, lab grown or both
Make sure GIA grades the diamond in your yellow diamond engagement ring
A yellow diamond engagement ring is rare because yellow diamonds are rare

A fancy-color yellow diamond falls outside the GIA D-to-Z color range

Understanding diamond color is essential before you go shopping for a yellow diamond engagement ring. Most colorless or near-colorless gem-quality diamonds are graded based on the absence of color, using GIA’s D-to-Z diamond color-grading system. Yellow diamonds are considered to be colored diamonds and are graded as “fancy” when they have more color than the Z masterstone.

Here is another important difference between yellow diamonds and colorless diamonds. Diamonds in the D-to-Z range usually decrease in value as the color becomes more obvious. The opposite happens with fancy-color diamonds. Their value generally increases with the strength and purity of the color.

Natural intense yellow heart shaped diamond

Colored diamonds graded Fancy Intense are often prized over those with other fancy grades. This yellow heart shaped diamond speaks of the first blush of love. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

A 5.33 carat Fancy Yellow pear shaped diamond.

Fancy-color diamonds are often cut into fancy shapes, like a pear shape, to bring out the color. Sunny days lie ahead for the bride wearing this 5.33 carat (ct) Fancy Yellow pear shaped diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

GIA assigns one of six “fancy” color grades to your yellow diamond engagement ring

The names used to describe colors are often quite subjective. Consider that the color yellow includes variations like butter, lemon, golden and more. To bring objectivity and standardization to the grading of the rare beauties that are colored diamonds, GIA created the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System in the 1950s and refined it over the decades. This grading system not only defined the processes for determining a diamond’s color, but it also established the terms, or color grades, for describing it.

GIA’s grading system places most colored diamond in one of nine categories based on the diamond’s hue, tone and saturation: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Dark, Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid. The first three grades aren’t used for yellow diamonds, so the scale for yellow begins with Fancy Light. The majority of yellow diamonds in the jewelry industry are graded Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid.

In general, the more color a colored diamond has, the better. Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid diamonds, for example, have more color than Fancy Light diamonds—and are usually more valuable. However, tone (the degree of darkness or lightness of a color) is also important. For example, a diamond that is extremely dark (Fancy Dark) may be less desirable than a lighter stone graded Fancy Intense.
It is not unusual for a yellow diamond to have a hue modifier, such as orangy yellow or greenish yellow. A modifier does not indicate that the color is any less strong or pure.

A chart shows the subtle transitions in GIA’s color grading of yellow diamonds.

This chart shows the subtle transitions in GIA’s color grading of yellow diamonds. Note, too, that the fancy grades represent a range of color sensations, not a “single” color sensation. Photo: Elizabeth Schrader and C. D. Mengason/GIA

Don’t expect a round diamond for your yellow diamond engagement ring

Round diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style are the most popular diamonds for engagement rings, but you may have a challenging time finding a round stone for your yellow diamond engagement ring. That’s because yellow diamonds typically display a more intense face-up color appearance when they’re cut in a shape other than round. These non-round shapes are called fancy shapes, which include oval, pear, marquise and heart, plus square or rectangular cuts like princess, radiant and emerald.

A 10.12 carat Fancy Vivid yellow pear shaped diamond.

This 10.12 ct Fancy Vivid yellow pear shape is an example of a fancy-shape diamond. This shape was most likely selected to intensify the yellow color. Photo: Elizabeth Schrader/GIA. Courtesy: The Scarselli Family

Mountings can make a yellow diamond look darker

If your heart is set on a yellow diamond engagement ring, you will probably look at a number of loose yellow diamonds. Be aware that the yellow diamond that has caught your eye may appear darker when set in a mounting.

Look at the photos below. The diamond on the left in the top image was graded Y–Z range, just on the light yellow/Fancy Light yellow boundary. It is shown next to a Fancy yellow reference diamond. In the bottom image, the larger diamond is mounted in a ring and placed next to the same reference diamond.

An image showing a loose yellow diamond and a mounted yellow diamond.

A yellow diamond is likely to look darker once it’s set in a mounting. Photos: Elizabeth Schrader/GIA. Courtesy: The Scarselli Family

This effect can actually work to your advantage, particularly if you’re deciding between a less expensive “light yellow” diamond at the very low end of the D-to-Z color scale and a more expensive Fancy yellow diamond.

The metal used affects the appearance of a yellow diamond engagement ring

Diamonds are highly reflective. Their facets are like tiny mirrors, reflecting their surroundings, which include the color of the ring and the prongs holding the gem. Because of this, the color of the metal will affect a diamond’s appearance.

You’ll typically have three choices when picking a metal for your yellow diamond engagement ring:

A white metal (this includes white gold and platinum)
Rose gold (typically a blend of gold and copper)
Yellow gold

Do you want your engagement ring to highlight the color of the yellow diamond? White metals and rose gold will create contrast between the mounting and the stone. White gold makes for a streamlined, sophisticated look. A rose gold mounting will create a warmer contrast.

Do you want your ring to complement the color of the diamond? A yellow gold mounting will harmonize with a yellow diamond. Take a look at Art Deco style engagement rings, Retro style engagement rings and ring styles typical of the Victorian era, times when yellow gold was in fashion, to see if these are designs you’d like to recreate for your yellow diamond engagement ring.

A 4.76 ct Fancy Vivid yellow diamond engagement ring surrounded by a halo of colorless diamonds.

Want your yellow diamond to pop? Set it in a white metal ring. This 4.76 ct Fancy Vivid yellow diamond is so bright that it appears to have captured a ray of the sun. A halo of colorless diamonds surrounds it. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3.46 ct yellow oval diamond engagement ring set in rose gold.

Rose gold is another way to create contrast with a yellow diamond. In this ring, it acts as a subtle counterpoint to the 3.46 ct yellow oval diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A three-stone yellow diamond engagement ring set in yellow gold.

A yellow gold band paired with yellow diamonds creates a harmonious look. The three yellow diamonds set in 18K yellow gold are sure to soothe the eye as they captivate it. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Some yellow diamonds might be treated, lab grown or both

Off-color diamonds that are brownish or yellowish can be treated to modify their color. Manufacturers typically use one or both of two different processes:

High-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) annealing can change some diamonds to yellow.
Artificial irradiation with subsequent heating (annealing) above about 500°C can be used to induce a deep yellow color in a diamond.

In both cases, the treatment is considered permanent under normal conditions of wear and care. Non-permanent treatments, like coatings, are also possible. All else being equal, diamonds that have not been treated are more expensive than diamonds that have been treated. Legally, the seller must disclose any treatments. GIA can detect these treatments, and it identifies them in the GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report. It also laser inscribes “HPHT PROCESSED” or “IRRADIATED” on the girdle of diamonds treated by either of these methods.

A 22.27 ct Fancy Vivid yellow emerald cut diamond that was artificially irradiated and annealed.

This 22.27 ct Fancy Vivid yellow emerald cut diamond was identified as artificially irradiated and annealed. Treated diamonds of this size and this attractively saturated color are rare. Photo: Sood OIl (Judy) Chia/GIA

Synthetic yellow diamonds – with properties that match their natural counterparts – are also being manufactured. The first synthetic diamonds were grown by HPHT processes that mimic the high-pressure, high-temperature conditions of natural diamond formation in the earth. Today, chemical vapor deposition (CVD) is another common method whereby synthetic diamonds are grown in an apparatus that uses high temperatures and low pressures in a vacuum chamber. The CVD process involves heating a mixture of a hydrocarbon gas (such as methane) and hydrogen, which releases carbon atoms that then settle onto the cooler, typically square-shaped seed plate of natural or, more likely, synthetic diamond. With both techniques, subsequent treatments may be used to change the color of the original crystal.

GIA can detect synthetic diamonds grown using either HPHT or CVD, and it issues distinctive reports for these synthetic or lab-grown diamonds. The GIA Synthetic Colored Diamond Grading Report offers the same information as the GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report issued for a natural diamond (see below), but it provides a more general description of the color and clarity. For additional disclosure and identification, GIA laser inscribes the diamond’s girdle with the stone’s unique report number and a statement that it is laboratory grown. The report itself looks markedly different from those issued for natural diamonds.

A 0.40 ct square-shaped diamond grown using the CVD process.

This 0.40 ct square-shaped diamond was grown using the CVD process. Photo: Sood OIl (Judy) Chia/GIA

Make sure GIA grades the diamond in your yellow diamond engagement ring

A yellow diamond engagement ring is a symbol of your love. It’s also a significant emotional and financial investment. So you’ll want to make sure the diamond is graded by a trusted, unbiased lab like GIA. GIA’s meticulous grading process involves testing to determine whether the diamond is natural or lab grown and to identify any known treatments used to enhance its appearance.

Highly trained colored-diamond graders observe the diamond face-up using controlled lighting in a specially designed viewing box that eliminates distractions and shields the stone from external light. These specialists determine the diamond’s characteristic color based on a combination of its size, shape, faceting arrangement and color. They then bracket the diamond using side-by-side comparisons under the same lighting conditions with two or more color references. On the basis of these comparisons, they select one of 27 hues (such as orangy yellow, yellow or greenish yellow) and assign a specific “fancy” grade based on the hue’s tone and saturation.

A GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report provides a full quality assessment of a colored diamond including the color grade, color origin (natural or treated), carat weight, clarity and a plotting diagram of its clarity characteristics. As an optional service, a full-color image of the diamond may also be included.

A GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report is your assurance that your yellow diamond is a natural diamond, graded to GIA’s exacting standards. It also provides full disclosure of any known treatments discovered during the grading process. Photo: GIA

A 2.03 ct Fancy Vivid yellow cushion cut diamond set in platinum.

If you’re looking for a unique engagement ring, this 2.03 ct Fancy Vivid yellow cushion cut diamond set in platinum will surely stand out. Courtesy: EraGem.com

A yellow diamond engagement ring is rare because yellow diamonds are rare

When you wear a yellow diamond engagement ring, you’ll have something unusual on your finger. In the early 2000s, for example, yellow diamonds represented only 2.4% of all diamonds submitted to GIA for various grading reports over the course of a single year. If unearthing a diamond is noteworthy, then discovering a yellow diamond is like finding a golden needle in a haystack.

Still yearning for a yellow diamond engagement ring? Dig a little deeper to learn more about yellow diamonds.

Fact Checking Diamond Fluorescence: 11 Myths Dispelled

March 27, 2018

If you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, you’ve probably heard about diamond fluorescence, along with varying opinions about its pros and cons. Let’s dig into a few common myths about fluorescence and D-to-Z color diamonds.

In this blog, we cover:
Myth #1: All diamonds fluoresce
Myth #2: You can see diamond fluorescence – no matter the lighting
Myth #3: Diamond fluorescence can always be detected
Myth #4: Diamond fluorescence influences a diamond’s color grade
Myth #5: Diamond fluorescence is given a grade, just like color, clarity and cut
Myth #6: Diamonds only show blue fluorescence
Myth #7: Strong blue diamond fluorescence is bad
Myth #8: Diamond fluorescence detracts from a diamond’s sparkle and beauty
Myth #9: Fluorescence means the diamond is a “real” natural diamond
Myth #10: Fluorescence can make a diamond less durable
Myth #11: Diamond fluorescence does/doesn’t affect value

Myth #1: All diamonds fluoresce
FACT: The majority of diamonds do not fluoresce. In a study of more than 26,000 diamonds submitted for grading to GIA, researchers found that only approximately 25% to 35% of them exhibited some degree of diamond fluorescence when examined with a standard long-wave UV lamp. So, it’s likely that the diamond you’re eyeing does not fluoresce.

Myth #2: You can see diamond fluorescence – no matter the lighting
FACT: Diamonds that fluoresce only do so when they are exposed to invisible UV rays and other higher energy radiation sources such as X-rays and lasers. You might see your diamond fluoresce under a bright sun, in a tanning bed, at a dance club or in other places where strong fluorescent or black lights are used. But once the light source is removed, the diamond will stop fluorescing. Incandescent lighting will not cause a diamond to fluoresce.

Diamond earrings shown under incandescent light appear to be the same color.

When viewed with incandescent light, all the diamonds in these earrings appear to be the same color. Photo: GIA

Diamond earrings viewed under a UV lamp showing different degrees of diamond fluorescence.

When viewed with a UV lamp, the diamonds in the earrings show different degrees of diamond fluorescence. Photo: GIA

Myth #3: Diamond fluorescence can always be detected
FACT: Diamond fluorescence cannot always be detected. You need conditions where UV rays are present and the intensity of the fluorescence is strong enough to be observed. A reputable grading laboratory, like GIA, follows strict protocols to determine the presence of fluorescence. It also adheres to set standards in describing its intensity, to ensure objective and consistent reporting.

A 1.42 carat step cut diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

Fluorescent or not, this 1.42 carat (ct) diamond engagement ring, with diamonds lining the band, captivates with its bold, clean lines. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Myth #4: Diamond fluorescence influences a diamond’s color grade
FACT: In assigning a diamond color grade, GIA examines the gem in a highly controlled viewing environment, designed to minimize the influence of fluorescence and to produce an accurate and objective assessment of the diamond’s color.

However, the way you perceive a diamond’s color grade may be affected by the extent to which it fluoresces – in a positive way. In a diamond lower on the GIA D-to-Z color scale (say, I to N) with a yellow tint, moderate-to-strong blue fluorescence may cancel out some of the yellow for a better color appearance than what its color grade would indicate. See Myth #7.

Myth #5: Diamond fluorescence is given a grade, just like color, clarity and cut
FACT: Diamond fluorescence is not one of the 4Cs – like color, clarity, cut and carat weight – which describe the quality of a diamond. GIA considers fluorescence an identifying characteristic – additional information that helps distinguish one diamond from another.

GIA diamond grading reports describe the intensity of fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong. If the fluorescence is Medium, Strong or Very Strong, the color of the fluorescence will be noted on the grading report.

Photo showing the intensity of diamond fluorescence described as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong under UV lighting (top) and under normal lighting (bottom).

A GIA Grading Report describes the intensity of a diamond’s fluorescence as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong. Composite photo in UV: Maha DeMaggio/GIA. Composite photo in normal light: Harold and Erica Van Pelt/GIA

Myth #6: Diamonds only show blue fluorescence
FACT: Diamonds can fluoresce in a variety of colors. These include orangy yellow, yellow, orange, red, white and green. Variations in the atomic structure, such as the number of nitrogen atoms present, cause the phenomenon. Blue, however, is by far the most common color of diamond fluorescence.

Rough diamonds displaying a range of colors when exposed to UV light.

These rough diamonds exhibit a range of colors when exposed to UV light. Photo: GIA

Myth #7: Strong blue diamond fluorescence is bad
FACT: GIA studied the influence of blue fluorescence on the appearance of a diamond under normal viewing conditions. The Institute found that average observers (meant to represent the jewelry buying public) could not consistently discriminate any fluorescence-related effects in the viewing environments most similar to those in which jewelry is purchased and worn.

However, GIA also found that strong blue diamond fluorescence could be beneficial. The results of its study revealed that, as noted for Myth #4, some strongly blue fluorescent diamonds were perceived to have a better color appearance than their color grade would suggest when viewed table-up, with no discernible trend table-down.

Composite photo of diamond necklace and one earring shown under normal lighting conditions (left) and a long-wave UV lamp (right).

Bejeweled fireworks: Half the diamonds in this necklace (132 carats total weight) and the one earring (3.20 ct center stone) in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave UV lamp (right). Composite photo: Harold and Erica Van Pelt/GIA. Courtesy: Harry Winston Inc., New York

Myth #8: Diamond fluorescence detracts from a diamond’s sparkle and beauty
FACT: Diamond fluorescence has little to no effect on a diamond’s sparkle, and research shows that it doesn’t impact beauty either.

A diamond’s sparkle is determined primarily by its cut, not by whether the diamond fluoresces or not. A diamond’s cut – that is, the angles and relative measurements of its facets, as well as its other proportions, design and craftsmanship – determines how well light performs when it strikes the diamond and how well it will sparkle.

A 1.29 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with diamond melee in the shank.

Even strong blue fluorescence would not affect the beauty of this 1.29 ct E color diamond engagement ring in normal lighting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

MYTH #9: Fluorescence means the diamond is a “real” natural diamond
FACT: Absolutely not. The presence or absence of fluorescence should not be used as a DIY test to determine if your diamond is real. First, not all natural diamonds fluoresce under the standard UV lamp used by gemologists (see Myth #1). Second, some synthetic or lab grown diamonds do fluoresce to these wavelengths. Although differences have been noted in the intensity, color and pattern of fluorescence between natural and synthetic diamonds, there is overlap. Finally, some materials used to impersonate diamond – like cubic zirconia – can display fluorescence.

CVD diamond displaying strong pinkish orange fluorescence, with regions of strong blue or violet, when exposed to high-intensity ultra-short wavelengths.

Synthetic diamonds made by the chemical vapor deposition method may display strong pinkish orange fluorescence (among other colors), with regions of strong blue or violet, when exposed to high-intensity ultra-short wavelengths. Photo: Wuyi Wang/GIA

Myth #10: Fluorescence can make a diamond less durable
FACT: A diamond that fluoresces under a standard UV lamp has the same structural integrity as one with no reaction to it. Nothing in the submicroscopic structures that cause fluorescence inherently weakens the diamond.

Myth #11: Diamond fluorescence does/doesn’t affect value
FACT: Jewelry professionals disagree about whether fluorescence adds to or detracts from the value of a diamond. Some trade professionals believe those very rare diamonds at the high end of the D-to-Z color scale that have extremely strong blue fluorescence are worth less than their nonfluorescent counterparts because the fluorescence can affect their transparency by giving them a hazy or milky appearance. Conversely, some traders pay higher prices for blue-fluorescing diamonds of a lower color grade because, as noted above, they believe the fluorescence masks the faint to very light yellow color of these diamonds.

Diamond fluorescence and its effect on value is not a simple question, and there isn’t a simple answer. We recommend that you compare diamonds in a variety of lighting environments and choose the stone that you like best. Ultimately, GIA believes the beauty of a diamond is truly in the eye of the beholder.

A 1.67 ct diamond engagement ring set in platinum, surrounded by 0.56 carats of diamonds in the halo and shank.

Wouldn’t it be awesome if this 1.67 ct center diamond fluoresced in a night club? Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Is there a diamond fluorescence “fact” you’d like to verify? Leave us a comment below. In the meantime, if you enjoyed this post, you might like reading about common engagement ring myths.

Guide to Diamond Shapes for Engagement Rings

March 21, 2018

There are so many diamond shapes to choose from when shopping for an engagement ring: round, square, marquise and more. Here’s a guide to what makes each shape special to help you pick the perfect diamond shape for your engagement ring.

First, it’s important to know the difference between a diamond’s shape and its cut. It is common in the diamond marketplace to refer to diamond engagement ring shapes as “cuts.” Shape describes a diamond’s basic outline when viewed face up (round, square, oval, etc.). Cut, or cutting style, refers to how the diamond’s facets are arranged. For example, the most common cutting style for diamond shapes is the brilliant cut with an arrangement of 57 or 58 facets designed to maximize sparkle. So when you find that perfect emerald cut diamond engagement ring, know that what you have is actually a square or rectangular shaped diamond engagement ring.

Some diamonds, most commonly square or rectangular shapes, are step cut. Emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds are examples. The step cut has concentric rows of facets on the crown and pavilion for a more elegant look. However, not all square or rectangular diamonds are step cut; many are brilliant cut, like the radiant and princess cut diamond.

All diamond shapes other than round are called fancy shapes. Read on to learn more about these diamond shapes:

Round diamond shapes
Rectangular diamond shapes
Square diamond shapes
Marquise diamond shapes
Oval diamond shapes
Pear diamond shapes
Heart diamond shapes

A 1.00 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring accented by 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank.

A modern classic: This round diamond shape is brilliant cut to deliver the signature light show we’ve come to associate with diamonds. In this engagement ring, a 1 carat (ct) round center stone is given a boost of additional sparkle by the 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Round diamond shapes

What’s great about round diamond shapes

Round is the most popular of the diamond engagement ring shapes, and it holds this title because the round brilliant cut is designed to produce maximum brightness, fire and sparkle in a colorless diamond. The modern round brilliant cut diamond has a round girdle outline, 56 symmetrically placed triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table facet and an optional culet facet, for a total of 57 or 58 facets.

A vintage engagement ring featuring a 3.03 carat old European cut diamond and a 3.01 carat ruby.

Antique or modern? It’s hard to tell with this delicious pairing of an old European cut diamond weighing 3.03 ct and a 3.01 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Lapidaries have been cutting round diamonds for centuries, but it wasn’t until the invention of the bruting machine in the early 1870s that a round diamond could be more easily made with a pleasing, symmetrical outline. The first of these was the old European cut diamond, a precursor to the modern round brilliant cut but with a higher crown and greater total depth than its modern counterpart. The old European cut is still a popular choice for brides wanting an antique look.

A 5.40 carat old European cut diamond engagement ring.

Old World charm abounds in this 5.40 ct old European cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem.com

What to look for in round diamond shapes

Symmetry is key when shopping for a round diamond to feature in your engagement ring. And if the diamond is cut as a round brilliant, as most are, pay attention to its cut quality, or how well it interacts with light. Look for brightness (often called brilliance) – the internal and external reflections of white light. Fire – the flashes of color seen as you rock the diamond under the store’s spotlights. Sparkle – spots of light that flash when the diamond moves. And scintillation – a combination of sparkle and balanced patterns of bright and dark areas. Well-cut round diamonds are brighter with more fire and scintillation than poorly cut ones, even if they’re of equivalent color, clarity and carat weight.

A 1.36 carat round brilliant cut diamond cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee.

A 1.36 ct round brilliant cut diamond is cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Avoid diamonds with extremely thin or “knife-edge” girdles or with inclusions near the girdle, which make them more vulnerable to damage.

To be certain of the quality of the cut on your round brilliant diamond, buy one with a GIA diamond grading report, which will provide an objective assessment. Look for a cut grade of Excellent or Very Good.

A modern diamond engagement ring featuring three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats set in platinum.

The emerald cut diamond is a long-standing favorite engagement ring shape. Renowned for its sophistication, its streamlined rectangular shape is often associated with the Art Deco period. This modern platinum ring features three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Rectangular diamond shapes

What’s great about rectangular diamond shapes

Rectangular diamond shapes have a long history and a reputation for classic elegance in an engagement ring. The elongated shape can make a bride’s fingers look longer and more slender. Three of the most common rectangular diamond shapes are actually modified rectangles: the emerald cut, cushion cut and radiant cut.

Emerald cut: With its crisp, sophisticated lines, the emerald cut is the most popular of the step-cut diamonds. Its four longer sides have beveled corners with two, three or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion. An emerald cut diamond engagement ring is a perennial favorite with the stylish elite.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond engagement ring featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond is the star in this setting featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion cut: Adorning the fingers of brides for centuries, the cushion cut diamond has curved sides and rounded corners. It typically has a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and large culet facet. Since the cushion cut retains more color face up than a brilliant cut, a cushion cut is well suited to colored diamonds. A cushion cut diamond will be a hit with a bride who favors an antique style for her engagement ring.

A 4.00 carat radiant cut diamond engagement ring wrapped with two diamond halos.

A bride-to-be would happily say “I will” as she puts on this 4.00 ct radiant cut diamond wrapped by two diamond halos. Courtesy: Uneek

Radiant cut: One of the newest rectangular shaped diamonds is the radiant cut, a modified brilliant cut introduced in 1977. It boasts the fire of a round brilliant cut diamond in a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners.

What to look for in rectangular diamond shapes

As with all diamond shapes, symmetry is important for rectangular diamonds. Facets on opposite sides should be parallel to one another, corners should be cropped to identical size and the culet should be well centered.

The cushion cut diamond is a shape that is both classic and contemporary. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

Emerald cuts do not hide inclusions as well as brilliant cuts due to their long rectangular facets, so high clarity is important. Emerald cuts are also less scintillating due to the step cut style of faceting. Since lots of scintillation masks lower color grades, this type of facet pattern looks best on a diamond with higher colors on the GIA D-to-Z color scale. However, it can intensify color in a colored diamond.

For radiant cut diamonds, look for brightness, sparkle and scintillation, as you would for a round brilliant cut diamond. Clarity is less of a concern, as the modified brilliant cut faceting pattern can disguise inclusions that would be more visible in an emerald cut diamond.

A 5.89 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring.

An emerald cut diamond like this 5.89 ct beauty exudes elegance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Square diamond shapes

What’s great about square diamond shapes

Square diamond shapes in engagement rings are perfect for the woman with long, slender fingers who wants them to look shorter. They are also a statement of individuality for a bride who would appreciate a contemporary alternative to the classic round brilliant cut. Want a square shaped diamond in your engagement ring? In addition to the square versions of the cushion cut, emerald cut and radiant cut diamonds described above, consider the princess cut or Asscher cut.

A princess cut diamond engagement ring with two tapered baguettes.

A princess cut diamond shows off its sparkle in this engagement ring. Two tapered baguettes add a dash of drama. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Created in 1981, the princess cut diamond has a modified brilliant facet arrangement that gives it electrifying sparkle and scintillation. For a very different, but surprisingly modern look, the Asscher cut – first introduced in 1902 but since modified for greater brilliance – is similar to a square emerald cut but with larger step facets, a higher crown and a smaller table. Unlike the pointed corners of the princess cut, the corners of an Asscher cut are cropped, giving it the appearance of an octagon.

A 9.57 carat Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds.

Love the combination of a square shape and a modified brilliant cut? Then you’re sure to fall for a ring like this one – a 9.57 ct Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: Vivid Diamonds and Jewelry

What to look for in square diamond shapes

Again, look for good symmetry. Facets should match on either side of an imaginary line drawn down the middle of the stone. Look for a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table and other facets.

Fine princess and Asscher cut diamonds will not have a culet facet, which must be taken into consideration when mounting the stone. The culet is a safety facet that helps protect the point on the pavilion from chipping when the diamond is loose or if it is exposed in a setting. In addition, for the princess cut, it is important to choose a prong or bezel setting that protects the pointed corners.

As with emerald cut diamonds, the Asscher cut is most effective for diamonds that are colorless (D–F on the GIA color scale) or colored diamonds.

An 8.06 carat art deco diamond engagement ring, mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting.

A square-shaped Asscher cut diamond, circa 1935, in a ring by Cartier Paris reflects the by-gone grandeur of the Art Deco era. The 8.06 ct diamond is mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3.50 carat marquise shaped diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

This stunning 3.50 ct marquise shaped diamond is set in platinum with its delicate tips protected by V-shaped prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Marquise diamond shapes

What’s great about marquise diamond shapes

An attractive, elongated shape with a royal pedigree, the marquise (pronounced “mahr-keez”) was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of King Louis XV, as its outline resembled the shape of her mouth. Because of its shape, a marquise diamond ring will look larger face up than a round diamond of the same weight. A marquise diamond engagement ring can also make the finger appear longer and more slender.

What to look for in marquise diamond shapes

Several factors must be considered when choosing a marquise diamond for your engagement ring. You want a marquise that is neither too long (and thus may sacrifice brightness and pattern) or too short (“stubby”) and thus loses the benefit of length to your bride’s finger. The points at either end should be sharp.

A 0.91 carat marquise cut diamond engagement ring featuring two smaller marquise side stones.

Note the regal gentility of this 0.91 ct marquise diamond and the two smaller marquise side stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Symmetry is extremely important for marquise diamonds. Both sides (wings) should have the same amount of curve, and the facets on one side of that imaginary line down the center of the diamond should match exactly the shape and size of the facets on the other side. Since the tips of a marquise diamond are where it is most vulnerable, it is not unusual for them to have slightly greater girdle thickness. If the marquise diamond is prong set, choose V-shaped prongs for the tips. A well-cut marquise will typically display a minimal to no bow-tie pattern.

Learn how to spot the bow tie effect in diamonds.

A 5.31 carat oval diamond engagement ring set in 18K white gold.

Oval diamond shapes are making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why in this 18K white gold ring featuring 5.31 carats of diamonds from the Moval Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Oval diamond shapes

What’s great about oval diamond shapes

Although a shape that is many hundreds of years old, the oval diamond has gained popularity for engagement rings in recent years because of its elegance and the fire it shows when cut in the brilliant faceting style. In addition, with its greater surface area, an oval diamond may appear larger than a round brilliant diamond of the same weight (and, like rectangular and marquise diamonds, can help elongate shorter fingers). One advantage over other fancy shapes is that the rounded edges make it less prone to chipping.

What to look for in oval diamond shapes

Pay attention to proportion. Longer oval diamonds are preferred by some, but they are not practical to cut so tend to be harder to find.

As with other fancy diamond shapes, symmetry is essential to ensuring beauty in an oval diamond. Again, placing an imaginary line down the length of the diamond and then across its center, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Also look for a graceful outline and the size and nature of the bow-tie pattern. The bow tie on a well-cut oval diamond will be minimal or non-existent.

An oval cut diamond engagement ring featuring two diamond side stones.

The virtues of an oval cut diamond are easy to see in this engagement ring. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

A 5.76 carat pear shape morganite engagement ring set in 14K rose gold.

The pear shape is not just for diamonds. In fact, it’s a popular shape for the newest trend – morganite engagement rings. This 14K rose gold ring features a 5.76 ct morganite, surrounded by 0.58 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Pear diamond shapes

What’s great about pear diamond shapes

An irresistible blend of the marquise and round brilliant, the pear shaped diamond is a stylish choice among diamond shapes. Worn with the point toward the tip of the finger, its graceful, tapered shape can make the hand look slimmer and more elegant, perfect for an engagement ring.

An 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring.

Looking for inspiration? You don’t need to look further than this 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring. It sold at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction for $17.7 million on October 7, 2014. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to look for in pear diamond shapes

Pear shaped diamonds come in a variety of proportions, so there are many options for choosing one that flatters the finger. Look closely at the wings on either side of the point to make sure they are symmetrical, with the rounded end a good semi-circle. Since the point is the weakest feature, look for (and avoid) inclusions in that area. If prong setting the diamond, use a V-shaped prong on the point for greater protection.

As with oval and marquise diamond shapes, the bow-tie pattern on the table should be minimal, or better yet, non-existent.

A 1.39 carat fancy yellow pear shaped diamond engagement ring.

This 1.39 ct fancy yellow pear shaped diamond glows like a star in the evening sky. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A heart shaped diamond held in a pair of jeweler’s tweezers.

Like true love, a heart shaped diamond may be hard to find, since this shape works best with larger diamonds of good clarity. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Heart diamond shapes

What’s great about heart diamond shapes

The heart shaped diamond is the essence of romance. It is also a very flattering style for larger fingers.

What to look for in heart diamond shapes

There are good reasons why this is one of the rarest of diamond shapes for engagement rings. A well-shaped heart requires a large diamond, at least one-half carat. In addition, inclusions tend to be more prominent in this shape, so you want a diamond that has good clarity. Symmetry is also key: The well-rounded lobes should match in size and shape, as well as faceting style, and the cleft between them (as well as the point) should be well defined.

Ready to shop for your favorite diamond shape engagement ring? Follow the links for more tips and inspiration:

Round Shaped Engagement Rings
Emerald Cut Engagement Rings
Radiant Cut Engagement Rings
Cushion Cut Engagement Rings
Princess Cut Engagement Rings
Marquise Shaped Engagement Rings
Pear Shaped Engagement Rings
Oval Shaped Engagement Rings
Heart Shaped Engagement Rings

Pear Shaped Diamond: Tips for Picking the Perfect One

March 13, 2018

With its graceful, tapered outline, a pear shaped diamond is an elegant and flattering choice for an engagement ring. Here are the essentials for selecting the perfect pear shape.

Learn the anatomy of a pear shaped diamond
Look for symmetry in a pear shaped diamond
The ideal length-to-width ratio is the one you prefer
Check culet placement and position of inclusions
Make sure the table is centered on a pear shaped diamond
Avoid the bow-tie on a pear shaped diamond
Choose a setting that protects the point of a pear shaped diamond
Point up or down? You decide how to wear a pear shaped diamond

1. Learn the anatomy of a pear shaped diamond

Jewelers consider the pear shaped diamond a “fancy shape,” meaning it’s a shape other than round. Reminiscent of a tear drop, a pear shaped diamond blends the best of the round and marquise diamond shapes.

Since the parts of a pear shaped diamond contribute to its beauty, you should get to know them. Then you can shop for a pear shaped diamond engagement ring with a discerning eye.

Illustration showing the parts of a pear shaped diamond.

You’ll want to be able to name the parts of a pear shaped diamond when you’re looking at various stones. This shows the retailer you’re an informed buyer. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Look at the diamond face-up and pay attention to its outline. A pear shaped diamond should have gently rounded shoulders and wings. The wings should form attractive arches. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.

A 4.04 ct yellow pear shaped diamond and 3.02 ct colorless pear shaped diamond in a bypass engagement ring setting.

A bejeweled pair of pears: a 4.06 carat (ct) yellow pear shaped diamond is nestled against a 3.02 ct colorless diamond. The band, which flows from 18K white gold to yellow gold, echoes the colors of the stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The pear shaped diamond, like the round brilliant diamond, is faceted to deliver the most sparkle and brilliance. Here are the names of important parts of a faceted diamond, which you should know and are used in this blog:

Culet: The culet is a small facet at the bottom of the pavilion of a finished gem intended to prevent chipping and abrasion of the fragile tip. Some gems have no facet in this area, which is often called a closed culet.
Crown: The top part of a gem located above the girdle.
Girdle: A narrow band that circumscribes the edge of the plane separating the crown and pavilion.
Pavilion: The portion of a polished gem that is below the girdle. The purpose of pavilion facets is to reflect light toward the crown.
Table: A large facet in the center of the crown.

On a black background, this 3.83 ct pear shaped diamond shines like a star in the night sky. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Atelier Marisa

Like many other fancy shapes (such as the marquise or heart shape), a pear shaped diamond tends to hold more color than a round brilliant. Therefore, it is best to choose a diamond that is high on the GIA color scale or a fancy-color diamond.

A 1.21 ct Fancy purplish pink pear shaped diamond engagement ring set in 18K gold.

Because pear shaped diamonds tend to hold more color than round brilliant diamonds, it is best to choose a diamond that is high on the GIA color scale or a fancy-color diamond like this 1.21 ct Fancy purplish pink diamond engagement ring set in 18K gold. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

2. Look for symmetry in a pear shaped diamond

Symmetry is key to the overall beauty of gemstones, but it’s even more important in some fancy-shape diamonds like oval diamonds, heart shaped diamonds, marquise diamonds and pear shapes. To see if a pear shaped diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the length of the gem and examine the two halves. The more closely they mirror each other, the better the symmetry is.

Notice how the shoulders, bellies and wings in the illustration below are identical on either side of the line, and how the shape, size and placement of the facets in each half of the stone mirror one another. This is an ideal pear shape. You can use the illustration as a guide when picking a pear shaped diamond.

Illustration demonstrating perfect symmetry in a pear shaped diamond.

Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

When GIA diamond graders evaluate the symmetry of fancy-shape diamonds, which includes pear shapes, they also look for things like a balanced and even outline. Certain types of asymmetry and uneven proportions are considered by most in the jewelry trade to have a negative effect on the appearance of a pear shaped diamond. These include:

High shoulders
Flat wings
Bulged wings
Undefined points

Uneven shoulders and uneven wings are other variations that will detract from the appearance of a pear shaped diamond. The illustration below has both.

Illustration showing an uneven outline of a pear shaped diamond with asymmetry in its shoulders, belly and wings.

The uneven outline of this pear shape reveals the asymmetry of its shoulders, belly and wings. You might want to avoid a diamond cut like this. Illustration: GIA

3. The ideal length-to-width ratio is the one you prefer

You might run into the phrase “length-to-width ratio” (comparison of the length and width of the outline of many fancy-shape diamonds, determined by dividing the diamond’s length by its width and stated as a ratio, like 1.75:1). Many experts prefer a length-to-width ratio that lies in the range of about 1.50–1.75:1. Others in the trade believe that a ratio isn’t enough to convey a diamond’s beauty. You may want to let your heart and eye guide you.

A 0.88 ct pear shaped diamond engagement ring accented with a halo of diamonds and melee in the shank.

Falling in love with any diamond is more than finding the perfect symmetry and length-to-width ratio. Are you infatuated with this 0.88 ct pear shaped diamond? Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

4. Check culet placement and position of inclusions

The placement of the culet on a pear shaped diamond can affect its appearance. It should be the same distance from the two sides of the diamond. A culet that is off-center will affect the diamond’s symmetry and is likely to make it less attractive. In some pear shapes, the culet is included in a keel line that extends down the length of the diamond where the pavilion facets meet. Like the culet, the keel line should be equidistant from either side of the diamond.

An Illustration of a pear shaped diamond showing an off-center culet.

The culet on this pear shaped diamond is off-center. It should be symmetrically placed at the same distance from either side of the gem. Illustration: GIA

Note, too, whether the diamond has any inclusions, especially near its point, as this is the area of that is most sensitive to damage. In addition, if the pear shaped diamond has a larger table facet, inclusions could be more apparent, so good clarity is a consideration.

5. Make sure the table is centered on a pear shaped diamond

A poorly placed table facet can also make a pear shaped diamond look less attractive. For maximum brightness and fire, the table should be centered on the line of symmetry.

An illustration of a pear shaped diamond showing an off center table.

If the table is off-center, the crown facets on one side of the pear shaped diamond will appear larger than the facets on the opposite side. Illustration: GIA

6. Avoid the bow-tie on a pear shaped diamond

Many pear shaped diamonds show a dark pattern that resembles a bow-tie. This pattern typically runs across the width of the stone from the center of the table. The bow-tie on a well-cut pear shaped diamond should be minimal, but there will still be good contrast between light and dark areas in the stone.

A bow-tie can vary from light gray to black. The darker or larger it is, the more it detracts from the face-up appearance of a pear shaped diamond. A bow-tie gets darker as the difference between a diamond’s length and width increases and pavilion angle variations (the measured angle between the pavilion main facet plane and the table plane) become more extreme.

If you find the bow-tie effect distracting, be sure to examine a variety of pear shaped diamonds from different angles under the lighting conditions in which the engagement ring will be worn. You may not be able to avoid a bow-tie altogether, but you should be able to find a stone in which it is subtle.

These pear shaped diamonds display a bow-tie effect, the dark area that extends across the width of each stone. Photo: Nicholas DelRe/GIA

7. Choose a setting that protects the point of a pear shaped diamond

The most vulnerable part of a pear shaped diamond is the point. This area can be protected by placing a V-prong on the point or choosing a bezel setting around the entire stone.

An 8.25 ct pear shaped diamond engagement ring in a V-prong platinum setting.

A V-prong protects the point – an area susceptible to chipping – of this 8.25 ct pear shaped diamond. Four more prongs hold the diamond securely in place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A bezel setting ensures that this 0.40 ct pear shaped diamond is well protected.

A bezel setting ensures that the 0.40 ct pear shaped diamond is well protected. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

8. Point up or down? You decide how to wear a pear shaped diamond

The traditional way to wear a pear shaped diamond engagement ring is to have the tip pointing away from you (down). According to many in the trade, this makes the finger look more slender. But tradition has its limits. Some brides choose to wear this shape with the point toward them (up). And some prefer a horizontal setting that gives this classic diamond shape a distinctive, contemporary look.

Like all matters of the heart, let yours decide which way the pear should point.

A 1.34 ct Art Deco style pear shaped diamond engagement ring with radiant cut diamonds and sapphires.

Whether the tip of the 1.34 ct pear shaped diamond points toward or away from you, an engagement ring like this will look spectacular on the finger. The center stone is surrounded by 43 radiant cut diamonds weighing 0.41 carats and 1.03 carats of sapphires. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Among the most elegant of the fancy shapes, a pear shaped diamond conveys both the delicacy of a single tear and the strength of the brightest star. While there are many factors to consider when searching for the perfect stone for your diamond engagement ring, it is a journey well worth taking. When deciding between different pear shaped diamonds, the overall appearance is more important than the specific proportion details. Often, what makes a pear shaped diamond attractive is a matter of personal taste. So enjoy looking at different pear shaped diamond engagement rings until you fall in love with the perfect one.

Before you go shopping, be sure to read our 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Engagement Rings

March 1, 2018

Antique and vintage engagement rings are in fashion – and for good reason. They have an undeniable charm and style. They are a beautiful piece of the past. They’re lasting symbols of love. Here’s how to pick one that you’ll cherish.

In this blog, we cover:
Establishing a budget for antique and vintage engagement rings
Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings
Important jewelry periods for antique and vintage engagement rings
Diamond cuts typical of antique and vintage engagement rings
Challenges with buying antique and vintage engagement rings
Where to find antique and vintage engagement rings

Establishing a budget for antique and vintage engagement rings

Prices for antique and vintage engagement rings run the gamut from less than $1,000 to more than $100,000. Put another way, there are beautiful rings for every budget. Deciding what to spend is a personal decision that balances practicality and love. You know what’s best for your circumstances.

A 1.12 carat cushion cut diamond engagement ring with 0.48 carats of melee.

If you’re looking for an antique engagement ring, aristocratic elegance is a hallmark of the Edwardian era. In this intricate creation, a 1.12 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond nestles within approximately 0.48 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings

Before we dive into the details of shopping for antique and vintage engagement rings, here are a few terms you need to know:

Antique: Jewelry made more than 100 years ago
Vintage: Jewelry that is not contemporary, but not old enough to be antique
Estate: Preowned jewelry – can be antique, vintage or contemporary

Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings will be helpful for your search. If you’re interested in an engagement ring from a specific period, like the Victorian era, you’ll want to use the proper terminology to help the retailer find the appropriate pieces. It also shows that you’re an educated customer.

Victorian style heart shaped moonstone engagement ring surrounded with a halo if diamonds.

With its heart shaped moonstone cradled in a halo of diamonds, this Victorian era engagement ring sparkles with romance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Important jewelry periods for antique and vintage engagement rings

Throughout history, certain periods or cultural movements have had a signature jewelry style. Your delightful challenge will be finding antique and vintage engagement rings and choosing one that best captures the spirit of your love. Here are brief descriptions of rings made during some of the more important jewelry periods.

Victorian (1837–1901): During the long reign of Queen Victoria, engagement rings featured a number of romantic design motifs, including acrostics (using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word), serpents, flowers, hearts and more. With the discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the latter half of her reign, diamonds became more common. The Victorian era spanned many decades, so you’re likely to find antique engagement rings from this era that charm your heart and eye.

Learn more about Victorian style engagement rings.

Gold snake motif engagement ring featuring two coiled serpents set with ruby, diamond and emerald.

An engagement ring with a snake motif might seem unusual to modern eyes. To Victorians, the serpent symbolized love, eternity and wisdom. Two coiled serpents are set with ruby, diamond and emerald. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Art Nouveau (1890s–early 1910s): Antique engagement rings of this period can be identified by the use of sinuous whiplash lines, enamel and unusual colored gems. Jewelry designers were strongly inspired by nature. They made fantastical pieces often depicting peacocks, swans, swallows, bats, dragonflies and butterflies, as well as the feminine form. Asymmetry (a lack of proportion between two parts of an object) and the economy of line (the elimination of non-essential elements) are other signature design features of this period.

Learn more about Art Nouveau engagement rings.

Art Nouveau antique engagement ring with diamonds and dramatic swirling lines.

Dramatic swirling lines, a signature of Art Nouveau jewelry, infuse this ring with a sense of movement while diamonds add sparkle. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Edwardian (1890s–1915): Triumphal laurel wreaths, scrolls, feathers, tassels, ribbons tied in bowknots, garlands of flowers, platinum and diamonds gave Edwardian era engagement rings a regal look, in keeping with the fashion established by Victoria’s heir, King Edward VII. The marquise cut diamond was also in fashion; the elegant shape was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of France’s King Louis XV, because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth.

Learn more about Edwardian engagement rings.

A 1.63 carat elongated oval diamond engagement ring surrounded by milgrain and delicate open work.

This 1.63 ct elongated oval diamond is surrounded by milgrain and delicate open work that are characteristic of the Edwardian era. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

Art Deco (1920s–1930s): For engagement rings of this period, look for geometric patterns and abstract designs brought to life with diamonds and gems of contrasting colors. Triangles, squares, rectangles and other geometric patterns were used to evoke the streamlined, modern spirit of the time. If you love a simple, yet bold style, then Art Deco vintage engagement rings would suit your taste.

A 3.00 carat emerald cut vintage diamond engagement ring boarded by emeralds.

A 3.00 ct emerald cut diamond bordered by emeralds captures the geometric patterns and contrasting colors that are classic Art Deco. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

Learn more about Art Deco engagement rings.

Retro (mid-1930s to the 1950s): Retro era engagement rings featured the geometric shapes of the Art Deco era but softened them with curves. Gold, especially rose gold, was the metal of choice. Expect to see these vintage engagement rings set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine. Diamonds tended to be small, so jewelers used techniques like the illusion setting to make them appear larger. Designs were inspired by mechanical objects such as bicycle chains and padlocks.

Learn more about Retro-style engagement rings.

Retro engagement ring with rubies and diamonds.

Wearable sculpture is a perfect way to describe this Retro era engagement ring. The diamonds shine brighter for being juxtaposed against rubies. Courtesy: Lang Antiques.com

Diamond cuts typical of antique and vintage engagement rings

If you’re looking for antique engagement rings, you’re likely to come across the terms old mine cut and old European cut diamonds.

An old mine cut diamond is a squarish or cushion shaped brilliant with many proportion variations that was often used in jewelry during the Georgian (1714–1837) and early to mid-Victorian periods. Although it has 58 facets like most modern round brilliant cut diamonds, it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. It also has short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places, which contribute to its distinctive look.

No two old mine cut diamonds are identical. This one weighs 0.68 ct. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

The old European cut emerged as advances in diamond cutting technology in the late 1800s made it possible to fashion round girdles, like the modern round brilliant, though it has a higher crown, very small table and greater total depth. It is typically found in jewelry from the late Victorian era, the Edwardian era and the Art Deco period.

This 0.99 ct old European cut diamond has a stately elegance. Photo: Orasa Weldon/ GIA

A 0.73 carat round brilliant cut diamond.

The round brilliant cut diamond, here at 0.73 carats, has been the standard for engagement rings since the mid-20th century. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

Challenges with buying antique and vintage engagement rings

Antique and vintage engagement rings can be a unique choice for your bride-to-be, but there are some challenges you should be aware of before you make a purchase.

Synthetic Gems and Simulants:
When shopping for antique and vintage engagement rings, it’s not uncommon to find some set with synthetic gems or simulants. Synthetic rubies have been around since the late 1800s, and both synthetic rubies and sapphires were very popular in the early to mid-1900s as they made jewelry more affordable. During the Art Deco era in particular, small calibré cut synthetic rubies and sapphires often served to accent diamonds in engagement rings and other jewelry. By the middle of the 20th century, synthetic emerald was also available, and by the 1970s we had synthetic alexandrite, opal, turquoise, citrine and amethyst, among others.
Simulants, like garnet-and-glass doublets in different colors (not just red, but also blue, green and even colorless) and other imitations, were commonly used in place of natural gemstones. Synthetics and simulants were often mixed with natural gems or diamonds. Over the years, fine gems in some pieces of antique or vintage jewelry have been removed and replaced with less-expensive imitations. The bottom line: Don’t assume that just because a ring is older, the stones are natural.
Thinning Prongs and Shanks:
With time, prongs on antique and vintage engagement rings can weaken from years of wear. When prongs are thin or worn, they can’t hold the stone as securely, making it vulnerable to loss. Retipping a prong usually requires removal and resetting of the stone, which always comes with some level of risk. Similarly, the back of the shank may be too thin on some rings, so it may need to be replaced with a new quarter shank or half shank.
Resizing Issues:
Antique and vintage engagement rings can be very difficult to resize, especially to go significantly larger or smaller. Consult with your jeweler on how to determine ring size before you buy.
Return Policy:
What happens if the engagement ring you bought doesn’t meet your expectations (or those of your bride-to-be) when you get it home? Our suggestion: Make sure the retailer has a generous and fair return policy. You should insist on having at least seven days to return an item.

Retro era engagement ring with two baguette diamonds weighing 0.60 carats and about 2.00 carats of melee.

A distinctive geometric pattern with both strong angles and curves incorporates two baguette diamonds weighing approximately 0.60 carats and about 2.00 carats of melee in this Retro era ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where to find antique and vintage engagement rings

A number of websites specialize in antique and vintage engagement rings. To determine if an online retailer is trustworthy, look to see how long they have been in business and if they are in good standing with the Better Business Bureau. Be sure to speak with retailers directly both to get answers to your questions and see if they are knowledgeable professionals. It is wise to purchase items with diamonds that come with GIA Grading Reports. Our blog on the Five Non-Negotiable Rules for Buying Jewelry Online has more essential information that may be helpful during your search.

Auction catalogs and websites that sell estate jewelry are two other sources. In addition, you can search the GIA Retailer Lookup for retailers who carry GIA-graded diamonds. Some of them also sell antique and vintage engagement rings, so it may be a good place to start.

A 0.85 ct octagonal emerald cut diamond Art Deco engagement ring accompanied by eight rectangular baguette cut diamonds and a group of round old European cut diamonds.

Contrasting geometric shapes create a sum greater than its parts in this Art Deco ring. A 0.85 ct octagonal emerald cut diamond is the center stone, accompanied by eight rectangular baguette cut diamonds and a group of round old European cut diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you find your perfect antique or vintage engagement ring, consider getting an unbiased appraisal from an experienced jeweler or independent jewelry appraiser. The appraisal should provide you with a full description of the piece, including its condition, as well as validate its historical period and estimate its value.

Searching for antique and vintage engagement rings can be like going through a treasure chest filled with lots of precious surprises. If you’re having a tough time finding one that’s right for you, consider creating a custom engagement ring with these antique and vintage styles in mind.

Diamond Color: Seven Things You Need to Know

February 22, 2018

If you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, you need to know about what diamond color is if you want to understand quality and how diamonds are valued. If you are curious about what colors diamonds come in and how color grade impacts value, check out our seven essential things about diamond color you should know.

In this blog we cover:

Diamond value is based (in part) on the absence of color.
A diamond’s color grade should be determined by a grading laboratory.
Colored diamonds are graded and valued differently from colorless diamonds.
Treatments can improve diamond color.
Diamond fluorescence has little to no impact on diamond color.
Engagement ring settings can influence the perception of diamond color.
To be sure of a diamond’s color, get a GIA grading report.

1. Diamond value is based (in part) on the absence of color

Diamond color is important: Most diamonds used in engagement rings are near-colorless with hints of yellow or brown. All things being equal, the more colorless a diamond is, the rarer it is, and this rarity will be reflected in its price.

The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale allows for precise measurement of diamond color. Illustration: GIA

GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is used to measure the degree of colorlessness of a diamond. The letter “D” represents a colorless diamond, with each following letter representing a diamond that has slightly more yellow or brown.

GIA organizes diamond color into five groups:

Colorless (D-F): The most rare, and therefore the most valuable
Near-colorless (G-J): Color is often unnoticeable except by trained graders
Faint (K-M): Color is still difficult to see by the untrained eye
Very Light (N-R): Subtle color can be seen in larger stones by an untrained eye
Light (S-Z): Color can be seen in stones of different sizes. The diamonds appear slightly yellow or brown but do not have sufficient color to be considered a “fancy” colored diamond

GIA D-to-Z diamond color scale showing diamonds at either end of the grading spectrum.

When diamonds at either end of the grading spectrum are placed side by side, it is easy to see the differences in diamond color. Photo: GIA

2. A diamond’s color grade should be determined by a grading laboratory

The distinctions between diamond color grades can be so subtle that they are undetectable to the untrained eye. But they do make a very big difference in diamond price. That’s why determining a diamond’s color grade is best left to a gemological laboratory, like GIA, that has the expertise and processes to ensure objective, unbiased color grading.

In working to evaluate what color a diamond is, GIA graders follow a strict protocol that dictates the type of lighting and neutral background used, as well as precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed during the assessment. A color grade is determined by comparing the diamond to masterstones – a set of color-comparison diamonds of known position on the GIA D-to-Z color grading scale – when all are placed table down in a grading tray. This viewing position reduces the complex appearance of a faceted colorless to near-colorless diamond when viewed face up.

One look at this 6.75 carat (ct), F-color, SI-clarity round brilliant and you’ll know why diamonds are the universal symbol of love. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Colored diamonds are graded and valued differently from colorless diamonds

Diamond color is arguably the most important factor in colored diamonds. Some common colors that diamonds come in are yellow, brown, pink, red, blue, orange, purple, green, gray or black. This does not include diamonds in the normal color range that are slightly yellowish, slightly brownish or slightly grayish. When the color is natural, the diamonds are called fancy-color diamonds, fancy diamonds or fancies.

Colored diamonds come in a rainbow of hues. Photo: Robert and Orasa Weldon/GIA

GIA grades colored diamonds differently from colorless diamonds. Unlike GIA’s D-to-Z grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds, which is based on the absence of color when the diamond is viewed table down, the grading system for colored diamonds is based on the presence of color when the diamond is viewed face up. Terms used by GIA to describe colored diamonds include: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Dark, Fancy Intense, Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid.

What to look for in colored diamonds? In general, the more color a colored diamond has, the better. Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid diamonds, for example, have more color than Fancy Light diamonds—and are usually more valuable. However, tone is also important: For example, a diamond that is extremely dark (Fancy Dark) may be less desirable than a lighter stone graded Fancy Intense.

A 3.66 ct Fancy Yellow diamond engagement ring with two halos containing 0.37 carats of yellow diamonds and 1.50 carats of colorless diamonds.

Colored diamonds can be far more expensive than colorless diamonds. Here a 3.66 ct Fancy Yellow glows like a ray of sunshine. Two halos encircle it: the inner containing 0.37 carats of yellow diamonds; the outer, 1.50 carats of colorless diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Fancy-color diamonds are, for the most part, far rarer than diamonds in the D-to-Z color range. Some experts estimate that only two percent of total rough diamond production is fancy colored. Since rarity influences price, it’s not surprising that spectacular blue, pink, green, orange and other colored diamonds can sell for millions of dollars at auction.

The Pink Star ring, which sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $71 million, contains a 59.60 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond graded by GIA.

The GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink 59.60 ct Pink Star diamond sold for $71 million at the April 4, 2017 Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

4. Treatments can improve diamond color

Diamond color can be altered by treatments. All else being equal, diamonds that have not been treated are more expensive than diamonds that have been treated. Legally, the seller must disclose any treatments. If you are aware what diamond color is, it’s easier to understand how they have been treated.

High pressure, high temperature (HPHT) processing is perhaps the most common technique used to alter, enhance or remove color. HPHT treatment can change some brown diamonds into colorless ones or into other colors like yellow, greenish yellow or green. This process is also associated with treated pink, blue and orange-yellow diamonds. The resulting color is considered permanent, but HPHT treatment should always be disclosed.

Annealing is another process that uses controlled heating and cooling to change the color of a gem material, especially after irradiation. Irradiating a diamond or coating it are other methods used to enhance a diamond’s color.

A 6.61 ct Fancy yellow brown diamond (left) before annealing and the same diamond (right), graded L (faint yellow) after annealing.

Before HPHT annealing to remove color, this 6.61 ct diamond was a Fancy yellow brown (left). After annealing (right), GIA graded the diamond an L (faint yellow). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

5. Diamond fluorescence has little to no impact on diamond color

Diamond fluorescence is visible light temporarily emitted by some diamonds when they are exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun, fluorescent lamps or other sources. This emitted light can display various colors (often blue in diamonds), intensities (faint to very strong) and distribution patterns. When the light source is removed, the fluorescence is no longer visible.

Many in the diamond trade believe that strong blue fluorescence can make a light yellow diamond look closer to colorless when exposed to a UV source such as sunlight. Blue and yellow are color opposites and tend to cancel each other out, so blue fluorescence masks the yellow color. In rare cases, some diamonds with extremely strong fluorescence may appear slightly hazy or oily. Fewer than 0.2% of the fluorescent diamonds submitted to GIA exhibit this effect.

A group of seven diamonds shown under daylight-equivalent illumination (left) and exposed to long-wave UV irradiation (right).

The same group of seven diamonds is shown here under daylight-equivalent illumination (left) and when exposed to long-wave UV irradiation (right). Photos: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

To answer questions from consumers and the trade about the impact of fluorescence on diamond color in the D-to-Z range, GIA conducted extensive observer testing. Here’s what its researchers found: “For the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, no systematic effects of fluorescence were detected [on the face-up appearance of the groups of diamonds]. Even the experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.” As a result, GIA considers diamond fluorescence to be an identifying characteristic, not a grading factor – meaning, it has little to no impact on what color the diamond is.

6. Engagement ring settings can influence the perception of diamond color

Diamonds are highly reflective – their facets are essentially an arrangement of tiny mirrors reflecting light and the surroundings. So it should come as no surprise that the color of a ring’s prongs and shank can influence the color you see in the diamond. A white metal like platinum or white gold can emphasize the absence of color in a diamond that is colorless or near-colorless, while a gold band might make a diamond lower on the D-to-Z scale appear more yellow.

Learn more about how metal affects a diamond’s color appearance.

A 8.03 carat D color marquise cut diamond engagement ring set in platinum, flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing 0.72 carats.

The 8.03 ct marquise cut diamond in this engagement ring is D color. It is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing a total of 0.72 carats. The platinum band and prongs highlight the beauty of the diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. To be sure of a diamond’s color, get a GIA grading report

A GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Origin Report provides an in-depth assessment of a diamond’s quality based on the 4Cs: diamond color, clarity, cut and carat weight. A report not only contains an objective color grade, but it also discloses other identifying characteristics like fluorescence, as well as any treatments detected. Learn what diamond color information is included in a GIA report.

An engagement ring is profoundly intimate and symbolic – it represents your love and commitment. A GIA Diamond Grading Report lets you make this most important purchase with peace of mind.

Now that you understand what diamond color is and its importance, here are 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

Lead image courtesy of 1stdibs.com

What Is a GIA Diamond ?

February 15, 2018

GIA diamond is a term you’ll find when engagement ring shopping – short for a diamond graded by GIA, the creator of the 4Cs and the independent, diamond authority. Learn more about GIA diamonds and why savvy shoppers rely on GIA.

In this blog, we answer the following questions:

What is a GIA diamond ?
Is every diamond a GIA diamond ?
What does it mean for a diamond to be a “GIA certified diamond”?
How does GIA ensure objectivity when grading diamonds?
Do I really need to get a diamond graded?
How do you get a diamond “GIA certified”?
Do “GIA certified” diamonds cost more?
Where can I find a GIA diamond ?

What is a GIA diamond ?

As mentioned above, a GIA diamond is really shorthand diamond sellers use to describe diamonds that have been graded by GIA. GIA is an independent, nonprofit organization that conducts gem research, educates gem professionals and sets the standards for determining diamond quality. One of GIA’s main functions is the grading of diamonds. You may have already heard or learned about the 4Cs of diamond quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. GIA created this standard, along with the scientific procedures for evaluating each “C” and the grading terminology used to describe them.

GIA does not mine diamonds, nor does it buy, sell or trade them commercially. It doesn’t appraise diamonds and is not otherwise involved in diamond pricing or valuation. GIA operates independently of these commercial interests, ensuring that its diamond quality assessments are completely objective and unbiased.

If you want to know the quality of the diamond you’re considering – and you should, because quality and price go hand in hand – then you should look for GIA-graded diamonds and the GIA diamond grading reports that will accompany them.

Is every diamond a GIA diamond ?

No, not all diamonds have been graded by GIA. Although it may seem that way given the sheer quantity of GIA-graded diamonds in the marketplace. This volume is a testament to the trust jewelers and their customers place in GIA’s accurate and independent grading services.

To be sure your diamond was graded by GIA, ask to see its GIA grading report. In addition to a full assessment of the diamond’s 4Cs, the GIA report contains a unique number, which is also sometimes inscribed on the diamond’s girdle. You can use the report number to access GIA’s online global report database, GIA Report Check, to verify that the diamond is GIA graded and view all its grading details.

A 1 carat (ct) diamond engagement ring set with 0.50 carats of diamond melee.

Round is the most popular diamond shape for engagement rings and a GIA report will contain a cut grade for round brilliant cut diamonds. This 1 carat (ct) diamond center stone is cradled by another 0.50 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: BlueNile

What does it mean for a diamond to be a “GIA certified diamond”?

“GIA certified diamond” is a misnomer. GIA doesn’t certify diamonds – it grades them. The terms “GIA certified” and “GIA cert” are commonly used in the jewelry industry to refer to diamonds that have undergone GIA’s rigorous grading process and to the reports that accompany them.

GIA itself does not use the word “certificate” to describe the document it issues. GIA examines the diamond, assesses its qualities based on the 4Cs, and describes it. It does not certify the diamond or its value. Rather, like other scientific laboratories, GIA issues a report on the results of its evaluation of a particular diamond and believes “report” is the appropriate term to describe its grading results.

An Internally Flawless, D color 2.78 ct round brilliant cut diamond.

This GIA-graded, Internally Flawless 2.78 ct round brilliant cut diamond received GIA’s highest grade for color: D. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

How does GIA ensure objectivity when grading diamonds?

GIA has robust procedures in place to ensure a diamond’s anonymity and the objectivity of the grading process. Upon arrival to the laboratory, the diamond is placed in a transparent storage case and all references to its owner are removed or concealed. It is assigned a bar-coded label that is used to track it throughout the process. All these precautions ensure that a GIA grading report objectively represents a diamond’s characteristics.

A 7.82 ct cushion cut diamond engagement ring.

The cushion cut diamond – a historical favorite – is trending again, and it’s easy to see why when you look at this 7.82 ct stunner, which GIA graded J color, VS₂ clarity. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

GIA diamond graders meticulously assess the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of the diamond. More-experienced staff gemologists may review any or all of the grading information and render independent opinions. A grade is not issued until sufficient consensus is reached.

Watch a diamond go through GIA’s grading processes.

Do I really need to get a diamond graded?

A diamond engagement ring is one of the most important purchases you’ll make. It may also be one of the most expensive. Because of this, you’ll want to be sure that you’re getting a good value for the diamond you’re considering.

A GIA diamond grading report gives you all the important information you need to know about a diamond’s 4Cs, as well as its fluorescence, any treatments and more. With a GIA diamond grading report you can be sure that your diamond is a natural diamond. That’s because GIA has examined and tested the diamond using the most sophisticated instruments and procedures available, informed by the Institute’s ongoing scientific research.

Since a GIA diamond grading report is an unbiased assessment of a stone’s quality characteristics, it lets you compare one GIA-graded diamond to another. This empowers you to compare the quality of loose diamonds, and decide which one is the best value and right for you.

Making sure the diamond you’re eyeing comes with a GIA diamond grading report is like getting an independent inspection before you buy a car or house. It’s a smart step in your purchase process – and many insurance companies will require a GIA grading report as a basis for insuring your diamond.

An H-color, VS2 clarity, 1.10 ct princess cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by 0.96 carats of diamond melee.

GIA grades diamonds of all shapes, and the square-shaped princess cut is one of the more popular for engagement rings. This H-color, VS₂ clarity, 1.10 ct princess cut diamond is surrounded by another 0.96 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

How do you get a diamond “GIA certified”?

GIA doesn’t certify diamonds, it grades them and anyone can submit a diamond to GIA for grading. You can drop off a stone at any of GIA’s nine laboratories, located in gem and jewelry capitals around the world, or you can ship it to GIA. However, given the complexities of packaging, shipping and insuring diamonds, and because GIA only grades unmounted gems, your best option is to work with your local jeweler to submit the stone on your behalf.

Many diamonds in stores and online will already have a GIA grading report, which you can ask to see prior to purchasing. Your diamond’s report should also be given to you once you complete your purchase.

Do “GIA certified” diamonds cost more?

Again, “GIA certified” is really a misnomer for GIA graded diamonds. There’s a false notion that GIA diamonds cost more, often based on comparing diamonds by price tag alone. The price of a diamond, a car or any other item of value is tied to quality. If you can’t be sure of the quality you’re getting, how do you know if you’re paying too much or getting a good deal? That’s why it’s important to compare prices for diamonds that have the same 4Cs quality characteristics and whose qualities have been accurately and objectively graded by the same independent laboratory like GIA.

Having a diamond graded by GIA is not expensive. GIA charges as little as $48 for a grading report for a diamond weighing 0.70 ct to 0.99 ct, and as little as $80 for a diamond weighing 1.00 ct to 1.49 ct. (Most jewelers factor grading fees into the price of the diamond.) Considering that couples spent an average of $6,351 on an engagement ring in 2017, the cost of a GIA diamond grading report is a small price to pay for peace of mind.

A 3.55 ct emerald cut diamond engagement featuring 24 baguettes and 136 round diamonds on the shank.

This 3.55 ct emerald cut diamond received high grades on its GIA report: F color and VS₂ clarity. Another 24 baguettes and 136 round diamonds totaling 1.62 carats decorate the band. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where can I find a GIA diamond ?

Most quality jewelers offer diamonds with GIA grading reports. The GIA Retailer Lookup can help you find retailers in your area who carry GIA-graded diamonds or have GIA-trained staff. Popular e-commerce websites also sell GIA diamonds.

Ready to shop for an engagement ring? Make a smart and beautiful purchase by reading our 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog