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Eight Common Diamond Engagement Ring Myths —Demystified

August 17, 2017

There’s no shortage of engagement ring myths. Here are some of the more common ones: Bigger diamonds always look better than smaller ones. Round brilliants are the best. Diamonds are unbreakable. True? False? We investigate these myths and deliver the facts.

In this blog, we examine the following engagement ring myths:

A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better
Any Diamond Will Sparkle
I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant
Diamonds Can’t Break
Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break
I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail
Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad
A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

Myth #1: A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better

A common myth about engagement rings is that a bigger diamond has a better face-up appearance than a smaller one. But just because a diamond is big doesn’t mean it will have more brightness, fire and scintillation. A small diamond can have mesmerizing sparkle, while a large diamond can look dull. How a diamond performs under light is a function of its cut, not its carat weight. So, debunking one of the biggest myths about engagement rings, a bigger diamond is not necessarily a better one.

Myth #2: Any Diamond Will Sparkle

A common misconception about diamond engagement rings is that every diamond sparkles. A diamond’s cut – how its facets interact with light – creates its sparkle. Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver the magnificent return of light. A diamond with a poor cut will have little to no sparkle.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate. From left to right, they received cut grades of: Poor, Good and Excellent. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

You can turn to a GIA Diamond Grading Report, a GIA Diamond Origin Report or GIA Diamond Dossier for an objective evaluation of the cut of a round brilliant diamond. A GIA cut grade of Good or better will deliver the sparkle you’re expecting.

It’s worth mentioning that dirt is the enemy of sparkle. Just as a dirty mirror will reflect poorly, so will diamond facets that have skin oils, lotion and other substances on them. Keeping your diamond clean is key to keeping it sparkling.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

What a difference a cleaning makes. Oils have been removed from the same diamond, and it now has a scintillating sparkle. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

The takeaway from all of this: If you want a diamond that sparkles, make sure it is cut well; if it is a round brilliant, look for one with a cut grade of Good or better on its GIA Diamond Grading Report. Once it is yours, keep it clean. This way, the engagement ring will be noticed and admired.

Myth #3: I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant

A round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape and cut for engagement rings. About half of all brides wear one. And for good reason: It’s beautiful, appealing and can have spectacular brightness, fire and scintillation.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

But do you need to buy a round brilliant? Consider that about half of all brides wear engagement rings set with diamond shapes other than round brilliants. These fancy shapes can be just as beautiful and deserve your consideration. And some might even cost less per carat than a round brilliant. Some of the more popular fancy shape diamonds include: the princess cut, marquise, cushion cut and emerald cut. Ovals are currently popular and can have bewitching sparkle. So, the myth that only a round brilliant diamond makes for a beautiful engagement ring is untrue! Other diamond shapes are just as popular, and just as beautiful.

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant. Square or rectangular in shape, the princess cut also looks a bit different, like this 1.03 ct beauty in a four-prong setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone.

Supposedly named after the Marquise de Pompadour because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth, the marquise diamond is rich in beauty and lore. This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty. Its appeal is easy to see in this engagement ring, which features a 7.82 ct cushion cut center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone. Photo: GIA

Myth #4: Diamonds Can’t Break

Diamond is the hardest gem material on earth and is impervious to virtually all acids. It can also withstand higher temperatures than most gemstones. But if a diamond cutter can purposely cleave (split) a diamond by giving it a sharp blow in the right direction, you can achieve the same result if you accidentally hit it hard enough in the right place.

Cleavage planes in diamond occur because carbon atoms parallel to these planes are more tightly bonded (that is, tougher) than the atoms between the planes. A cleavage plane is the weakest direction in the molecular arrangement of a diamond crystal, and it always parallels one of the crystal’s triangular faces. If a diamond is hit hard along one of these planes, it can chip or fracture.

Chips typically occur when the girdle edge or an exposed point, like the tip of a pear shape or marquise, strikes something hard. Diamonds being unbreakable is simply a myth. Storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can also cause chips, scratches or other damage. Certain diamond cuts with pointed corners, like the princess cut, are particularly vulnerable and are often set with V-shaped prongs positioned over the corners to protect them from chipping.

This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet.

Diamonds are known for their hardness – their ability to resist scratches and abrasions. But contrary to some diamond engagement ring myths, diamonds are not impervious to damage, since their hardness varies depending on the crystal direction. This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet. Photo: GIA

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond. Illustration modified from V. C. Venkatesh and S. Izman, Precision Engineering, 2007, p. 54.

Myth #5: Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break

Of all the diamond engagement ring myths covered here, there is some truth to this one. Inclusions are clarity characteristics that lie within a diamond. Inclusions in themselves won’t necessarily cause a diamond to break. But if they’re located on or near a cleavage plane or another vulnerable area like a girdle or culet, they could make the diamond more prone to chipping.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle. Photo: GIA

Myth #6: I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail

This is one of those engagement ring myths that really demands your due diligence and some research. It’s tempting to think that you’ll get a better price buying a diamond from “a friend of a friend,” through an online auction, or directly from a wholesaler or dealer. After all, you think, these sellers have lower overhead, so they should also have a lower markup — with these savings passed along to you. You may be right. However, it pays to comparison shop, taking into account all the costs associated with purchasing an engagement ring.

Whether you decide to buy your diamond from a traditional brick and mortar retailer or through another channel, be sure to look for some basic consumer protections: a minimum 30-day period for refunds or exchanges, quality guarantees, and diamonds accompanied by grading reports from a reputable lab. Any seller failing to provide these basic services may be offering a deal that’s too good to be true.

Buying from a traditional retailer may offer some additional advantages. A jeweler’s expertise is invaluable in helping you select both the diamond and the right setting for it. And many retailers offer discounted diamond-and-ring packages. Many also offer cleaning, repair and maintenance as long as you own the ring, as well as insurance and even trade-in programs should you want to up-grade your diamond in the future. In the end, you may find that the savings offered by other types of sellers are negated by the package discount and additional services offered by a retailer.

All this is to say that you have more options than ever when it comes to buying a diamond. Just be careful and smart, as you would with any important purchase.

Myth #7: Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad

This is one of the more common engagement ring myths – here are the facts: Diamond fluorescence is neither good nor bad. It is a naturally occurring characteristic that a diamond may possess. Some people like the blue (or rarely another color) glow that some diamonds emit when exposed to long-way ultraviolet (UV) light such as that from the sun and fluorescent lamps. Whether you choose a diamond with fluorescence is a matter of personal preference.

Fluorescence is common: Between 25% and 35% of the diamonds on the market exhibit some degree of fluorescence, which GIA grading reports describe as None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. It’s worth noting that fluorescence is not considered a quality factor like the 4Cs (color, clarity, cut and carat weight). The extent of a diamond’s fluorescence is included in a grading report as additional information to help in identifying that particular diamond.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays. Half the necklace and one earring in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave ultraviolet lamp (right). Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt. Courtesy: Harry Winston, Inc., New York

You may have heard the myth about engagement rings that the fluorescence affects a diamond’s color grade. Not true. GIA color grades diamonds under tightly controlled lighting conditions designed to eliminate any effect from fluorescence. So it has no impact on the color grade assigned. However, the strength of a diamond’s fluorescence can influence your perception of the diamond’s color when viewed with certain types of lighting. For example, in bright sunshine some diamonds with a Medium to Strong blue fluorescence may appear more colorless. In rare cases, diamonds with Very Strong fluorescence may have a hazy or oily appearance; less than 0.2% of fluorescent diamonds exhibit this effect.

GIA’s research discovered that for the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, blue fluorescence had no systematic effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance. Even experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.

Myth #8: A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

One of the older engagement ring myths, this one dates back to the 1950s. It’s been debunked before, but it’s worth negating again. The fact is, there is no hard and fast rule on how much you should spend on a diamond engagement ring. You need to determine what you can afford, set a budget and stick to it. By learning a little bit about diamonds, including the 4Cs of diamond quality and doing some comparison shopping, you’ll be able to choose a diamond of the best quality for your budget. Remember, at the end of the day the ultimate value of a diamond isn’t what it costs, but the love that goes into giving it.

Radiant Cut Engagement Ring – A Brilliant Option

July 12, 2017

A radiant cut engagement ring is an irresistible combination: It has the fire of a round brilliant diamond and the aristocratic elegance of an emerald cut. Created in 1977, the radiant cut has been charming brides-to-be for decades.

This dramatic 8 carat (ct) radiant cut yellow diamond is an alluring choice for a diamond engagement ring. Courtesy: McTeigue and McClelland

A relative newcomer to the ranks of fancy-shaped diamonds, the radiant cut can be square or rectangular; notably, it has cropped corners and brilliant-cut facets. Diamonds with less-than-exceptional clarity can be good candidates for radiant cut engagement rings: In addition to giving the stone plenty of sparkle, this brilliant-cut faceting pattern disguises inclusions that would be more readily apparent in an emerald cut.

A 3 ct radiant cut diamond is flanked by two trilliants weighing 0.70 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Buying a Radiant Cut Engagement Ring

Radiant cut diamonds have broad appeal. Elongated stones can create the effect of slenderizing fingers, while shorter styles can flatter even the most petite hands. To determine which proportions work best for you, we recommend trying on various options to find the perfect radiant cut engagement ring.

A beautiful 20.04 ct radiant cut diamond set in platinum showcases the excitement of this faceting style. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Important characteristics to look for in any radiant cut diamond are a well-centered culet, parallel sides and corners cropped to identical size.

Looking for a simple yet elegant square shape for your engagement ring? This radiant cut center stone with round brilliant cut diamonds is an attractive option. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

The enchanting sparkle and alluring appearance of radiant cut diamonds makes them especially attractive as solitaires. And they don’t require extra embellishment to stand out from the crowd: Taste-making celebrities like Megan Fox sport the cut.

The three yellow radiant cut diamonds in this ring set with round yellow melee diamonds make a breathtaking statement. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The radiant cut diamond also pairs well with side stones. Shapes with straight edges—like trilliants, or baguettes and other rectangular stones—are popular in radiant cut engagement rings because their linear silhouettes are complementary. And while you’ll often see radiant cut diamonds oriented north-to-south in engagement rings, the east-to-west orientation is gaining in popularity.

Magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct.

You’re sure to stand out and be noticed with an engagement ring that has a radiant cut diamond pointing east to west. This magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you are looking for the elegance of a rectangular or square shape with the fire of a round brilliant diamond, a radiant cut engagement ring may be perfect for you. Ready to start shopping? Read on to learn more about how to pick a radiant cut diamond.

Engagement Ring Styles to Flatter Her Hand and Finger

June 20, 2017

There are so many flattering engagement ring styles to choose from. How can you be sure that what looks great in the display case will also look great on her finger? Just follow these simple tips.

In this blog, we cover:
Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers

Some brides seek a look that makes their shorter fingers appear longer. Others prefer a ring that harmonizes with them. By virtue of their shape, marquise, oval, rectangular and pear shaped diamonds are good engagement ring styles for a longer look. These elongated diamond shapes have a “north-south axis” that can accentuate the length of the finger.

Or your bride-to-be might like a round brilliant or princess cut center stone with small side stones, set in a narrow band. Such a ring would flatter her finger without drawing undue attention to its length.

Regardless of the diamond chosen, a simple design is usually a better option for short fingers. An engagement ring with a complicated design likely requires a larger canvas and can overwhelm the finger.

Undeniably elegant, this 1.40 carat (ct) pear shape diamond can make her finger appear longer. Two tapered baguettes provide contrast to the center stone. The final creation is simple and stylish. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers

Women with larger fingers enjoy a variety of options. They have the canvas to wear a larger stone, perhaps a large sapphire, ruby or tourmaline with diamond side stones. Choose a wide stone over a narrow one, to deemphasize the width of the finger. Cluster-set diamond engagement ring styles could also make a bold statement. Look into elaborate settings, with geometric designs or intricately carved gold. She can handle them with style!

A medium to wide band looks best on a larger finger, but make sure it is comfortable and does not look tight on the finger. Just as a dress that is too tight can make the wearer look heavier, so a ring that is too tight can accentuate the width of the finger.

Some shanks (the part of a ring that fits around the finger) might be constricting on fingers that are larger, and make ordinary movements uncomfortable. One option to get the wider band effect is to choose a setting that combines several thinner bands. This makes for a distinctive engagement ring style without drawing undue attention to the size of the finger.

A prong setting, especially one that raises the diamond off the band, is another good option for larger fingers. This engagement ring style can create the illusion of depth, which makes the finger appear narrower.

1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with prong setting.

This ring featuring a 1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond would look good on a larger finger. The prong setting raises the diamond above the finger, making it look more slender. Courtesy: Avigdor Jewelry

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers

Petite fingers often appear dainty and refined. So they are flattered by similar engagement ring styles. Small rings tend to look better on petite fingers. A big ring or gem is likely to overwhelm the hand and make the finger appear even smaller.

Some diamond cuts that work well on petite fingers are round brilliant, princess cut and oval. They are all good choices for engagement ring styles for smaller hands. Or consider a heart shape for a diamond that suits both the occasion and the delicacy of the finger.

Engagement ring styles with a simple design look best on petite fingers. A more complicated design is likely to be too distracting. Putting such a ring on a petite finger might make the hand look smaller.

Round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with platinum braided double shank.

A simple design. A thin, braided double shank. A round brilliant cut diamond. This engagement ring has all the ingredients to dazzle on a petite finger. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers

Long, slender fingers have the most options for engagement ring styles because they can handle a variety of gems and settings. Still, as with all the finger types discussed thus far, proportion is important.

Larger diamonds and colored gems are good engagement ring styles for long fingers, which have the necessary surface area to display bigger stones. Likewise, long fingers can elongate stones like a marquise or emerald cut. A wide band can also provide a nice complement to the length of the finger.

2.01 ct emerald cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguette accent stones

If a larger, elongated diamond flatters a slender finger, then this 2.01 ct emerald cut diamond would be a stunning choice. Another 0.25 carats of tapered baguettes accent the center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3 ct ruby ring flanked by two tapered baguette diamonds.

A ruby demands to be noticed, and is a lovely engagement ring style for someone with a long, slender finger. This 3 ct oval ruby has an enchantingly rich color and is flanked by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Long, slender fingers are also ideal candidates for stackable rings, bands that can be added to the original wedding and engagement rings to celebrate an anniversary or other special occasion. The longer the finger, the more bands you can add. It’s also a great way to update the look of the original jewel through the years.

Collection of stackable rings featuring melee diamonds.

An engagement ring, a wedding band, an anniversary band and one more to mark a special occasion – this collection of stackable rings would look elegant on a long, slender finger. The generous use of melee diamonds adds sparkle to these rings. Courtesy: Sandra Biachi

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Some engagement ring styles are suitable for almost any length and shape of finger. Round brilliant and princess cut diamonds are classic choices for engagement ring center stones. They flatter no matter what the finger shape is. For a distinctive look, combine them with side stones that add to the sparkle of the ring.

1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguettes.

This 1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond is a flattering choice for almost any finger. The tapered baguettes draw attention to the lovely center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

A three-stone engagement ring is another trending engagement ring style. The design is balanced, contemporary and works well – no matter what the size of the hand or finger is.

If it won’t spoil the surprise, have your loved one try on various diamonds and settings to see how they look. See for yourself what engagement ring styles works best on that very special finger.

Keep in mind, too, that the ring will be worn with a wedding band, which will affect the overall look.

Three-stone diamond engagement ring totaling 15.00 carats.

For yesterday, today and tomorrow – that is the symbolism of a three-stone diamond engagement ring. This stunner has a total weight of 15.00 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Now that you know some engagement ring styles to adorn any shaped finger, here are some ways to make your diamond look bigger.

Hungry for a Baguette Diamond Engagement Ring?

June 13, 2017

A baguette diamond, usually set in multiples, adds a dash of style to an engagement ring – or any jewelry piece. Popular since the Art Deco era, this dazzling diamond cut should be part of your shopping vocabulary. Here’s what you need to know.

In this blog, we cover:
Baguette Diamond: A Definition
Baguette Diamond: A Brief History
Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Baguette Diamond: A Definition

Baguettes are small, usually rectangular, step-cut diamonds with straight or tapered edges. Some baguettes are almost square, while others have a length-to-width ratio of 5:1 or even longer. A tapered baguette diamond has long sides that angle inwards. Baguettes are popular side stones in engagement rings.

Baguette diamond illustration showing parallel edges

All the edges are parallel to each other in this baguette. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

An illustration showing long sides of a tapered baguette diamond angled inwards

The long sides of a tapered baguette angle inwards. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Channel-set tapered baguette diamond earrings

Channel-set tapered baguettes make these earrings visually arresting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Emerald cut diamonds are also rectangular or square step cuts. Unlike baguettes, though, they have diagonally cut—not square—corners.

An emerald cut diamond with diagonal corners

An emerald cut diamond has diagonal corners. A baguette does not. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

In a style called the ballerina setting, baguettes surround the center stone to form a skirt that resembles a ballerina’s tutu. While the tutu effect is best shown with tapered baguettes, so the skirt appears to flow out from the girdle of the center stone, other diamond shapes have also been used. For a ballerina setting, baguettes are typically channel set, though they are occasionally prong set.

An 18K yellow gold prong-set cocktail ring with a ruby center stone, accented with tapered baguettes to make a “ballerina setting.”

Tapered baguettes in a prong setting are used to make this “ballerina setting,” which encircles the ruby. Courtesy: The RealReal

An attractive novelty cut is the brilliant baguette. This is primarily a mixed cut, with brilliant-style facets (triangular and kite shaped) on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. A benefit of this style is that it can add more sparkle to your diamond engagement ring.

Tapered baguette diamond with brilliant facets and accompanying illustration

The top image is a tapered baguette diamond with brilliant-style facets on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. The bottom image shows where the crown and pavilion facets are typically placed. Photo and Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Tapered baguette diamond engagement ring with a 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone

Baguettes with a brilliant facet arrangement on the pavilion add even more visual fireworks to the 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Dimensions are more important than weight when purchasing baguette diamonds, since they are usually sold in multiples. For example, if you were purchasing two of them–to sit on either side of a center stone–you or your jeweler would ask for two stones of equal dimensions – and not of equal carat weight.

Baguette Diamond: A Brief History

The origin of the term “baguette” for these small step-cut diamonds is up for debate. The traditional translation of the French word is “rod” or “stick,” but one meaning given in Randle Cotgrave’s 1673 French and English Dictionary is “a little jewel.” It is the diminutive of the French “bague,” which at the time meant “jewel” or, its current meaning, “ring.”

The rectangular step-cut diamond now called the baguette diamond is believed to have evolved from the hogback, an elongated table cut that was known since at least the mid-16th century. At that time, it was often used to make monograms and jeweled letters (like the owner’s initials). Cartier reintroduced the baguette cutting style in 1912, and in the following decades jewelry designers of the Art Deco period favored its clean lines and geometric shape. It was in the 20^th century that the term “baguette” was first used in English to refer to this popular side stone as we know it today. Some think that the diamond cut was named after the long, thin loaf of French bread that it often resembles.

A 1.37 ct emerald cut Art Deco engagement ring accented with six baguette diamonds and 18 round brilliants

Six baguettes and 18 round brilliants border a 1.37 ct emerald cut diamond in this Art Deco ring (circa 1930s). The use of geometric shapes is a defining characteristic of the period. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 2.40 ct Art Deco engagement ring with 0.85 carats of baguettes, triangular diamonds and trilliant cut synthetic rubies

Another Art Deco treasure, this engagement ring features a 2.40 ct emerald cut center stone, 0.85 carats of baguettes and triangular diamonds, and 0.96 carats of trilliant cut synthetic rubies. Courtesy: The RealReal

The baguette diamond is frequently used in contemporary jewelry and engagement rings. So if you want a modern version of an Art Deco engagement ring, consider one with baguettes.

A 1.79 ct emerald cut engagement ring flanked by 0.70 carats of baguette cut diamonds

A bonanza of baguette diamonds with a total weight of approximately 0.70 carats, these slender beauties bring a majestic look to the 1.79 ct center stone. The ring, a contemporary creation, shows that the Art Deco look is alive and well. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Here are some tips for picking beautiful baguette diamond:

Baguettes that fall toward the top of the D-to-Z color range are often prized.

A 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond flanked by two baguette diamond accents

An 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond is the unquestioned star in this ring. Two flanking baguette diamonds play a supporting role: Their colors blend seamlessly and do not detract from the diamond’s beauty. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

All the baguettes in the ring should be similar in color and clarity, and they should match the center diamond. A baguette diamond whose color or clarity is noticeably different from another or from the center stone is likely to create an inharmonious and unappealing appearance.
Step cut means that the crown facets of the baguette are arranged in a terrace-like fashion parallel to the table edges. Slight deviations in the facets’ symmetry are usually visible to the naked eye and detract from the stone. Make sure all facets are parallel and symmetrical.
Avoid inclusions – they are usually more visible in a baguette diamond than a round brilliant.
Baguettes and tapered baguettes are purchased in sets. For simple accent stones on the shoulder of a ring, you may want one, two or three (for example) baguettes or tapered baguettes on each shoulder. They will need to match in length and width (and taper) to fit the channels. For straight baguettes, you will need to specify the length and width to 0.1 millimeter (mm) for a good match. For tapered baguettes, you’ll need to specify the wide and narrow end widths to 0.1 mm.
To create a long curve, buy the appropriate number of tapered baguettes that range in length from X to Y, depending on the type of width range you want that curve to be. The stronger the taper, the sharper the curve, so ask for diamonds with a slight or strong taper.
Like most other diamonds, baguettes can be treated to enhance their appearance. Treatments may include high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) to enhance color or fracture filling to enhance apparent clarity. Synthetic diamond baguettes are also available in the marketplace. By law, a retailer must disclose if the diamonds you are purchasing are natural, treated or synthetic.

A 2.01 ct E-color emerald cut diamond flanked by two tapered baguette diamond accents

A 2.01 ct E-color SI1 emerald cut diamond is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing approximately 0.35 carats in total. Baguettes mismatched in color or clarity would detract from the aristocratic splendor of the ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette diamonds bring understated elegance wherever they are used. But there are other small diamonds to consider – particularly if you’re looking to add high drama and sparkle to your engagement ring. Meet melee diamonds and get to know these tiny diamonds with big impact.

The Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — A Classic Shape

May 30, 2017

The cushion cut engagement ring is surging in popularity. This distinctive pillow-shaped diamond is the modern heir to the historic old mine cut diamond. Looking for an engagement ring with a vintage look and classic style? Get inspired!

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by an arrangement of small diamonds

The intricate arrangement of small diamonds, called melee diamonds, surrounding this cushion cut diamond gives this ring an aristocratic air. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — What to Look For

Cushion cut diamonds — both antique and modern — have curved sides and rounded corners. Part of the charm of cushion cut diamonds is their variety. Some have elongated, rectangular proportions and others resemble rounded squares. There’s also a great diversity in the arrangement of their facets that affects their appearance. In addition, this style is well suited to fancy-color diamonds.

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond is accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank. Courtesy: Dana Rebecca Designs

Some cushion cut diamonds have all the fire of round brilliant cut diamonds, while others have a more subtle glow. As when choosing any diamond, try on a number of rings to find your favorite. A beautiful cushion cut is symmetrical so the opposing sides should mirror each other.

Cushion Cut Engagement Rings Aren’t Just for Celebrities

An engagement ring featuring a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank

Stately and sophisticated, this engagement ring features a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank. Milgrain (the rows of tiny beads that outline certain sections) give the ring a vintage feel. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The number of celebrities who choose this distinctive cut for their engagement rings is proof of the cachet of the cushion cut engagement ring. The celebrities who sport them have styles that range from outrageously flashy to quietly refined. Liam Hemsworth gave Miley Cyrus a 19th century 3.5 ct cushion cut set in yellow gold with engraved flowers. Molly Sims’ cushion cut engagement ring features a classic halo setting, and Kim Kardashian’s original 15 ct jewel floats atop a delicately bejeweled band.

Set in a simple mounting, this 3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond is spectacular. Flanking it are two side stones with a total weight of 1.08 carats. Courtesy: Sasha Primak

Hollywood celebrities can offer inspiration when selecting a diamond engagement ring, but let your personal style guide your choice of ring setting. The gently rounded cushion shape suits virtually any sensibility.

The cushion cut engagement ring is timeless. It looks contemporary, but in an antique-style setting it speaks of the romantic past. And its pedigree is impeccable. Could this be a diamond you would wear as your engagement ring?

Are you ready to buy this intriguing diamond cut? It’s pays to learn more about it, including more details about what to look for when selecting the perfect cushion cut diamond.

The Allure of an Oval Diamond

May 23, 2017

An oval diamond has an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance, but with a difference. When it is faceted in the brilliant style, its fire can rival that of a round brilliant. So get ready to pick the perfect oval diamond.

In this blog, we cover:
Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
History of the Oval Diamond
Famous Oval Diamonds
What to Look for in an Oval Diamond
Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

Anatomy of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond is a fancy shape. You can think of it as a round brilliant diamond stretched on its sides, or a rounded version of a cushion shape or cushion brilliant. To pick a beautiful oval diamond, you need to know its parts.

Head or end: The “tips” of the oval.

Shoulder: The curved area reaching from the head/end to the belly.

Belly: The central area where the sides curve out the most.

An illustration showing the anatomy of an oval diamond

Knowing the anatomy of an oval diamond will help you pick one you love. Illustration: GIA

You’ll typically find oval diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style, which means the diamond has 57 or 58 facets, like a standard round brilliant, giving it similar visual qualities. An oval diamond can have a variety of facet arrangements, but the most common is eight bezel facets on the crown combined with eight main facets on the pavilion.

Line diagram of an oval diamond’s crown and pavilion views.

A common facet arrangement for oval diamonds: eight bezel facets on the crown, pictured in light blue (left); eight main pavilion facets, pictured in dark blue (right). Illustration: GIA

There are compelling reasons why many people love oval diamonds: Because the oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, it can appear larger to the eye. The oval shape can make the finger seem longer. And because the shape doesn’t have sharp angles or corners, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping compared to other fancy shapes.

History of the Oval Diamond

The brilliant faceting style was first introduced circa 1700. Brilliant-cut cushion shaped diamonds predominated because cutters tended to follow the outline of the rough crystal. But diamonds were available in a variety of shapes, including oval. At this time, diamonds were not described by their shapes – they were simply called “brilliants.” It isn’t until the late 1800s that we first see mention of oval diamonds in literature.

Modern appeal for the oval diamond began in 1957. The oval diamond enjoyed a resurgence between 1998 and 2001, driven in part by marketing campaigns, and now it’s making a comeback. According to Town & Country magazine, the oval diamond ranked 6th in popularity with American consumers in 2016 (round diamonds were still no. 1).

Famous Oval Diamonds

The 105.60 carat (ct) Koh-i-Noor is probably the most famous oval diamond. It was so valuable that it was said that “whoever owned the Koh-i-Noor ruled the world.” Following centuries in the possession of rulers from Persia and India, the diamond was presented to Britain’s Queen Victoria on July 3, 1850. It is now set in the Queen Mother’s crown, which was fashioned for Queen Elizabeth, wife of George VI (and mother of Elizabeth II), for their 1937 coronation. You can see it in the Tower of London with the other Crown Jewels.

The 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff (long known as the Wittelsbach Blue) is another famous oval diamond with a royal provenance. The rough probably came from India’s famed Golconda District. In about 1666, it was given as part of a dowry for the marriage of Infanta Margarita Teresa of Spain into the House of Hapsburg. In 1722, it was used again as part of a dowry, this time for a marriage into the House of Wittelsbach. In 1931, the Wittelsbach Blue vanished from sight and was hidden for 30 years, until it was rediscovered in 1961. After it was sold at auction for $24.3 million in December 2008 to London Jeweler Lawrence Graff, the original 35.56 ct cushion modified brilliant diamond was recut to a 31.06 ct oval to make it a Fancy Deep blue, Internally Flawless gem, and was renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff.

Pictured here is the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, recut from the historic Wittelsbach Blue. The recut diamond was graded Fancy Deep blue according to GIA’s colored diamond color grading system. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Another oval diamond made international news in April 2017, when Hong Kong jeweler Chow Tai Fook bought a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond for $71.2 million. Known to many as the Pink Star or Steinmetz Pink, it became the most expensive diamond ever sold at auction. The retailer renamed it the CTF Pink Star. The diamond was mined in Botswana in 1999. It took cutters two years to turn the 132.50 ct rough into its final shape.

The Pink Star, a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink oval diamond

The Pink Star, now called the CTF Pink Star, smashed auction records when it sold for $71.2 million in April 2017. The 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond is a stunning example of an oval shaped diamond. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to Look for in an Oval Diamond

Turn to the 4Cs of diamond quality when shopping for an oval diamond. GIA uses the same criteria for determining carat weight, color and clarity for oval diamonds as it does for round brilliants. This can help you narrow your search.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Keep proportion in mind when looking at oval diamonds. Consumers and trade professionals tend to prefer a longer oval shape, according to a comprehensive survey of shape preferences GIA conducted in 2009. The survey showed that the most popular length-to-width ratio for ovals was 1.7:1. However, it is not practical to cut such long oval diamonds from the original rough, so you’ll rarely find one. More typical are ovals with ratios ranging from 1.3:1 to 1.4:1.

This 1.06 ct oval diamond has a 1.71:1 length-to-width ratio. It is rare to find oval diamonds this long. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 3.01 ct oval diamond with a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio

This 3.01 ct oval diamond has a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio, which is a little shorter than most oval diamonds. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 2.28 ct oval diamond with a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio

This 2.28 ct oval diamond has a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio. Even this length is a little hard to find. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

Symmetry

Symmetry is important in creating the beauty of an oval diamond. To determine if an oval diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the center. The shape and faceting of the two halves should mirror each other. Then draw an imaginary line across the middle of the oval. Again, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Symmetry is based on how closely the shape and facets on either side of these imaginary center lines mirror each other. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval diamond surrounded by two halos of melee diamonds

The allure of an oval diamond is easy to see in this 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval. The two halos surrounding it contain D-to-F color melee diamonds totaling 1.20 carats. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Shape Appeal

Look for an oval diamond with a graceful outline and harmoniously proportioned parts. To find one that’s attractive to you, it pays to compare several different oval diamonds. Here are some common shape variations:

This oval cut has flat shoulders, which many in GIA’s survey considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has bulging shoulders – an aspect that many of those surveyed also considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has no shoulder bulge. Its overall symmetry and well-proportioned shape contribute to its visual appeal. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Girdle Thickness

The girdle is the intersection of the crown and pavilion. It defines the perimeter of the diamond and functions as its setting edge. Girdle thickness is judged the same way in fancy shapes as in rounds. Be sure to look at the diamond’s proportion diagram in its GIA Diamond Grading Report. The diagram will show the stone’s average girdle thickness percentage and indicate if the girdle is too thick or too thin. An overly thick girdle can contribute to a heavier diamond than its face-up appearance warrants, and a thin girdle can increase the risk of damage such as chipping.

Bow-tie Effect

Expect to see a bow tie. A “bow tie” in diamond parlance is a dark bow-shaped pattern across the table of the diamond.

What causes a bow tie? A diamond’s facets act like a series of mirrors that gather light from around you and return it to your eye. As you look at the stone, the dark contrast you see is a reflection of your head and shoulders blocking light from entering the diamond. The closer your face is to the diamond, the more pronounced the bow tie will be.

If the diamond is cut well, the bow tie will be minimal, but once you are in front of the diamond, there will always be some measure of a bow tie.

An illustration of an oval diamond showing the bow-tie effect

The grayed-out area across the table in this illustration is where you’ll likely see the bow-tie effect. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

You’ll have lots of choices for engagement ring settings for oval diamonds. And each setting can create a dramatically different look. Here are some options.

Halo Setting

A halo of smaller diamonds around the oval center stone is a lovely addition. It accentuates the shape and makes the diamond appear larger. Choosing a different color of metal or side stones can create an arresting look.

A 10.92 ct oval diamond engagement ring, accented with a halo of Fancy pink melee diamonds

A mesmerizing sight, this oval diamond engagement ring features a 10.92 ct center stone, accented with a halo of fancy pink melee diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Prong Setting

Prong settings are good choices for an oval diamond. Not only do they protect the diamond from loss, but they can also add height, raising the diamond from the band and drawing the eye to the gem.

An oval diamond makes a dramatic statement in a prong setting. A halo of smaller diamonds adds even more panache. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting, which completely encloses the perimeter of the diamond in metal, is a great choice if you lead an active life. It’s an effective way to protect the diamond and also enhances the beauty of the oval shape.

A 0.84 ct oval shape diamond sits in a platinum bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Side Stones

An oval diamond goes well with virtually any kind of side stone. Half-moon diamonds echo its shape, so they can be an attractive choice. Baguettes and tapered baguettes offer an opportunity to create contrast, as do colored gems. If you want your diamond side stones to match the center oval, choose side stones that are within one or two color grades of the larger diamond so they don’t compete with its beauty.

Contrasting colors and shapes bring life to this engagement ring. It features a 0.90 ct oval center stone, flanked by two round sapphires and round diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Wide Band

Because of its shape, an oval diamond works well with a wider band.

An oval diamond three stone engagement ring

Three oval diamonds look at home in a wide band. It especially suits the 1.57 ct center stone. Courtesy: EraGem.com

An oval diamond is beautiful…classic…and a little different. It’s a wonderful option for an engagement ring.

If you’re looking to create a diamond engagement ring that’s out of the ordinary, there are many more fancy shapes to choose from. A marquise diamond just might be for you.

GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding Carat Weight

May 9, 2017

If you’re shopping for a diamond, carat weight is probably one of the important things you’re considering. It seems like a straightforward measurement, but there is more to it than a simple number. Here’s essential information you need to know.

In this post, we cover:

What Is Carat Weight?
How Does GIA Measure Diamond Carat Weight?
- Carat Size and Rounding Up (or Down)
Why Is Carat Weight Important?
Carat Weight and Shopping Considerations
The Difference between Carats, Karats and Carrots

What Is Carat Weight?

Diamond weight is stated in metric measurements called carats. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, which is 1/5 of a gram or 0.20 gram. There are 142 carats in an ounce. Carat is also the standard unit of weight for most gemstones.

The modern carat system has its roots in the carob seed, which comes from the locust tree. Because the small seeds are fairly uniform in size and weight, they were a useful standard for determining the weight of a gem. Early gem merchants and jewelers used carob seeds as counterweights in hand-held balance scales.

Carat weight was standardized as 0.20 gram in the early twentieth century. This gave trade professionals a uniform and universally accepted weight standard for diamonds.

Notice that the seeds from the carob pods are nearly identical in size. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

Carat is abbreviated as “ct” and weights are typically given to two decimal places: 1.00 ct, 0.76 ct, 1.57 ct.

Like the dollar, a carat is made up of 100 parts, called “points” and abbreviated as “pt.” An easy way to remember this is to think of carats as dollars and points as pennies. They’re even written the same way: $1.34 means one dollar and 34 cents, and 1.34 ct means one carat and 34 points.”

A necklace featuring a 25.04 ct pear shape diamond suspends from 64.24 carats of diamonds

If you like big diamonds, you’ll love this necklace. The large pear shape weighs 25.04 ct, and it is suspended from another 64.24 carats of glittering diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Chatila

How Does GIA Measure Diamond Carat Weight?

When a diamond is submitted to GIA, one of the first steps in the grading process is to determine its weight. To ensure precision, accuracy and consistency, GIA uses an electronic micro-balance scale to weigh each diamond. GIA adheres to strict calibration and maintenance procedures for its devices. These procedures exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations. In addition, the laboratory monitors and controls environmental conditions that might affect the quality of the results, such as room temperature and humidity.

Diamonds being weighed on an electronic mirco-balance scale

Diamonds submitted to GIA are weighed on an extremely sensitive electronic micro-balance scale. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

The diamond’s dimensions are also measured. An optical measuring device captures the diamond’s measurements (length and width), as well as its proportions and facet angles, which will eventually inform the diamond’s cut grade.

Diamond Carat Weight and Rounding Up (or Down)

While most trade professionals typically weigh diamonds to a thousandth of a carat (three decimal places), GIA weighs diamonds to the fifth decimal place – a hundred thousandths of a carat, to ensure maximum precision and provide an identifying characteristic.

The rounding rules GIA follows are also stricter than normal mathematical rounding rules. As mentioned above, a diamond’s carat weight is conventionally stated to two decimal places (0.71 ct, 1.34 ct). To arrive at this number, GIA rounds up to the next higher hundredth only if there’s a nine in the thousandth place. For example, a diamond that weighs 1.769 ct would be rounded up to 1.77 ct, but one that weighs 1.768 ct would be rounded down to 1.76 ct. Such differences in carat weight might seem small, but they can make a significant difference in price.

Five fancy color diamonds provide an example of relative diamond size

Get a sense of relative diamond size with this photo. From left to right: a yellow princess cut (0.86 ct), a pink round brilliant cut (0.68 ct), a gray-blue round brilliant (0.56 ct), a gray round brilliant (0.30 ct) and a blue-green round brilliant (0.15 ct). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Once the diamond has been graded, its carat weight and dimensions — as well at its color, clarity and cut grade (if applicable) — are clearly documented on a GIA diamond grading report. Also included is full disclosure of any diamond treatments detected during the process.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report shows a diamond’s weight

The diamond’s weight is prominently stated on a GIA Diamond Grading Report. Photo: GIA

Why Is Carat Weight Important?

All other factors being equal, the price of a diamond increases as its carat weight increases. Since diamonds 1.00 ct or larger are comparatively rare, prices jump dramatically for these gems.

Carat weight also helps you compare prices between diamonds with different weights but the same color, clarity and cut grades, allowing you to compare the per carat price for each stone to see where you’re getting the best value.

Carat Weight and Shopping Considerations

Here are a few concepts related to carat weight that you should be aware of as you’re shopping:

Carat Weight and Gemstone Size – Two Different Things

It’s a common mistake to equate a gem’s carat weight with its physical dimensions. After all, it seems logical that a larger stone will weigh more. This is true if you’re comparing two stones of the same gem material – like a diamond to a diamond, or an aquamarine to an aquamarine.

However, size is a function of the gem material’s specific gravity – the ratio of the weight of a gem to that of an equal volume of water. Materials with different specific gravities (densities) will have different sizes for the same weight (think of an ounce of lead compared to an ounce of feathers). For example, the specific gravity of diamond (3.52; that is, 3.52 times the same volume of water) is lower than that of ruby (4.0), so a one-carat diamond will be larger than a one-carat ruby.

The bigger the diamond, the more bang for your buck?

Not always. When it comes to diamonds, greater carat weight does not guarantee that the diamond will look bigger. For example, a poorly cut diamond may be too deep and have weight hidden below the girdle. You won’t see this weight when the diamond is mounted, and it won’t make the diamond more appealing – but the diamond will weigh more.

An illustration of a diamond showing excessive bulge as seen by gray areas on either side of the outline

Excessive bulge, shown by the gray areas on either side of the outline, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to its beauty or perceived size when viewed face-up. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Magic Sizes

As mentioned earlier, for diamonds that are equal in every way, diamond value increases as weight increases. At certain weight boundaries, called “magic sizes,” the price per carat increases significantly. That’s because these boundaries or thresholds coincide with popular weights, and popularity means greater demand and therefore higher prices for these weights. This is especially true at the magic one-carat size.

A graph showing punctuated increases of diamond values as they reach certain weights

Diamonds increase in price at magic sizes like 0.25 ct, 0.50 ct, 0.75 ct and 1.00 ct. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A quick comparison of two diamonds shows how magic sizes can affect price. If one diamond weighs 0.96 ct and another weighs 1.02 ct, the 6 pt (0.06 ct) difference in size is almost imperceptible. But if both are D-color round brilliants with identical clarity and cut, the difference in cost is significant. The fact that the second diamond is slightly over the “magic” one-carat threshold may cause its price to be as much as 20 percent more.

The 1.07 ct diamond in this Tiffany & Co. ring is a magic size. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Nevertheless, for some people carat weight is symbolic, so they will pay the higher price to reach the magic size.
There is another side to magic sizes – if you think they’re unimportant, you can look for a diamond that weighs slightly less than one of these boundaries and save money.

Carat weight isn’t everything

If you want the largest diamond you can afford, you’ll have to sacrifice clarity, color and/or cut, which may mean sacrificing beauty and sparkle. Choosing a diamond means prioritizing the 4Cs, and then making some compromises. Here is a thoughtful look at determining what’s the most important C for you.

Total Carat Weight

Understanding diamond terminology is essential if you’re going to make a smart purchase decision. “Total carat weight” (abbreviated tcw) is the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds.

An engagement ring set with many small melee diamonds weighing 2.15 tcw will cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring set with a single 2.15 ct diamond. Again, think size/rarity/price.

Cushion cut diamond and platinum engagement ring surrounded by a halo of melee and natural pink diamonds

This Tiffany & Co. engagement ring has a cushion cut diamond, weighing 0.84 ct, surrounded by 0.06 carats of natural pink diamonds and 0.34 carats of melee. The total carat weight is 1.24 tcw. Courtesy: TrueFacet.

If an engagement ring has gems other than diamonds in it, the combined weight of all the stones is called “total gem weight.”

The Difference between Carats, Karats and Carrots

Here’s a last bit of terminology that we need to explain. As you know by now, a carat is a metric unit of measure to describe the weight of a diamond and other gemstones. Karat (abbreviated as K) is the measure of the purity of gold. A karat has 24 parts, so 18K gold would mean that the metal is 18 parts gold and 6 parts of other metals (such as copper, silver and/or zinc). Carrots, well, that’s something rabbits are famous for eating.

A diamond engagement ring is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase that is a symbol of your love. Understanding carats and points can help you with this “weighty” decision.

In addition to carat weight, a GIA grading report contains a wealth of information about your diamond. If you’d like to dig deeper, you’ll be interested in the other articles in this series:

GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding the Diamond Color Grade
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding the Diamond Clarity Plotting Diagram
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding Diamond Cut Grades

Engagement Ring Settings to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

April 18, 2017

Engagement ring settings should be both beautiful and practical. A setting defines your ring style, adds drama to the diamond and protects it from loss or damage. The right setting and band can also make your diamond look bigger and even more sparkling.

If you’re looking to create an illusion of size, here are some tips for engagement ring settings that can make your diamond “grow.” But first, let’s start by debunking some dubious recommendations floating around the internet.

What Doesn’t Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Diamond shape and carat weight: While a diamond’s outline – round, rectangular, oval, pear, marquise — can have some influence on the overall perception of diamond size, the shape of a diamond alone does not guarantee the stone will look bigger. The same is true for diamond carat weight. Just because one diamond weighs more than another of the same shape doesn’t mean it will look bigger. Similarly, one diamond might look bigger than another of the same shape and weight, but may be less appealing overall. That’s because there might be many factors at play, especially those related to the quality of the diamond’s cut and how its weight is distributed.

Illustration showing diamond with bulge on either side of the pavilion.

A diamond’s shape – and even its carat weight – won’t guarantee a large-looking gem. Excessive bulge, shown here by the shaded areas on either side of the pavilion, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to the stone’s perceived size. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Here are some examples:

A diamond with shallow cut proportions may be physically wider and longer, but it will be far less appealing. That’s because a lot of the light that enters the crown of a shallow diamond might exit through the pavilion, making the diamond look dull and unattractive.
A shallow pavilion depth – less than 38 percent – can create a “fish eye” effect, seen as an unattractive gray ring under the table. (Pavilion depth is measured as the distance from the bottom of the girdle plane to the culet.) As above, the diamond may be physically wider and longer, but the stone will have a dull, flat look.

What’s a crown, pavilion, girdle and culet? Learn more about diamond anatomy.

On marquise, pear and heart shaped diamonds, the sides near the points are called wings. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.

On the left, flat wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking too narrow. On the right, rounded wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking stubby. Photos: Kate Waterman/GIA

White metal band: A common misconception about engagement ring settings is that a white metal band can act like a mirror to reflect and amplify a diamond’s size. The logic seems sound until you consider that a rose gold or yellow gold band could serve as a dramatic counterpoint to the diamond, making it look bigger. So a white metal band is not a foolproof solution.

Diamond ring with 5.31 carats of diamonds in a rose gold setting.

You decide if the 5.31 carats of diamonds in this ring pop because of the rose gold setting. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Colored gemstones: Colored accent stones provide dramatic contrast to a center stone, but do they make the diamond look larger? Not necessarily. One could convincingly argue that a colored stone would compete with a diamond, thus distracting the eye.

Slender prongs: A potentially troublesome myth about engagement ring settings is that the less a prong covers a diamond, the more of the gem that’s shown, so the bigger it will look. While this may be true technically, it is not advisable. Prongs serve an essential function: they hold a diamond securely in place. Skimp on the necessary size and number of prongs, and you risk losing the diamond.

What Does Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Here are some engagement ring settings to consider if you’re looking to boost the appearance of your diamond’s size.

Illusion setting: During the Great Depression of the 1930s, when few could afford large diamonds, jewelers sometimes set a diamond in a head made of a fluted white metal. The shiny metal was made with ripples, so the whole head looked like the diamond it reflected. This setting was so successful in delivering an illusion of size that it’s still used today.

TIP: The purpose of the illusion setting is to make a near-colorless diamond look larger, and white metal is required to achieve this particular effect. If the diamond is yellow in color, then a yellow gold illusion setting is a better choice.
TIP: Diamonds smaller than 0.50 carat (ct) are good candidates for illusion engagement ring settings. You’d probably want to showcase a diamond 0.50 ct or larger on its own, instead of relying on the illusion setting to work its optical magic.

Engagement ring with illusion setting and diamonds with a total weight of 0.12 carats

The total weight of diamonds in this ring is just 0.12 carats, but the illusion setting makes them appear much larger than they really are. Courtesy: EraGem

Toi et Moi engagement ring in an illusion setting featuring two diamonds with a total weight of 1.18 carats.

Here’s an example of a Toi et Moi (“You and Me”) engagement ring in an illusion setting. The total weight of the two diamonds is 1.18 carats, but they look larger because of the illusion setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Cluster setting: This engagement ring setting places several small diamonds of similar size next to each other. This technique maximizes sparkle and gives the illusion of a single diamond that is much larger in size (and more costly) than the melee diamonds used to make it.

TIP: Diamonds of the same or similar color grades work best in a cluster setting. Diamond manufacturers know this, and match color grades when producing these kinds of rings. So you won’t have to worry about selecting the many smaller diamonds that will be part of your cluster setting.
TIP: The more metal surrounding a stone, the more it is protected. Cluster settings have lots of metal. So your diamonds will be better safeguarded against damage.

Diamond ring with a cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds.

Three diamonds or 58? You might not be able to tell from a distance. In this ring, the cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem

Halo setting: When a ring of smaller diamonds is artfully placed around a center stone, the center stone can appear to be the size of the halo.

TIP: Engagement ring manufacturers select the melee that makes the halo, so you won’t have to worry about picking the many small diamonds that will go into the engagement ring setting.
TIP: A diamond center stone weighing 0.50 ct or more works best in this kind of setting because the melee in the halo will enhance it. You probably wouldn’t want to use a smaller diamond, since it would be too close in size to the melee. That combination would probably look like a pavé set ring with one diamond (the center stone) somewhat larger than the rest.
TIP: The prongs on halo diamonds tend to wear out faster. Should you go with this style, be sure to have your ring routinely checked by your jeweler.

Diamond engagement ring with double halo setting surrounding a 1.17 carat cushion cut center stone.

Where does the center stone end and the halo start? Here’s how the trick of the eye works. This double halo set with 0.50 carats of diamonds makes the 1.71 ct cushion cut center stone look even larger. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Pavé setting: To achieve this popular technique, many diamonds 0.20 ct or smaller are set into tapered holes in a metal surface, nestled close to the melee stones next to them. Pavé creates an appearance of uninterrupted diamonds in the band, which can make the center stone look larger.

TIP: Pavé set diamonds in engagement ring settings are typically very secure, as the diamonds are set into metal. However, should a diamond fall out, it is more difficult for a bench jeweler to replace it.
TIP: Avoid engagement ring settings with pavé set diamonds on the bottom of the shank. This area of the ring is exposed to a lot of friction, so the diamonds are more easily lost or damaged.

Diamond engagement ring featuring pavé set diamonds and a 1.00 carat emerald cut center stone.

The pavé set diamonds in this engagement ring glitter like stars in the night sky. The center stone is a 1.00 ct emerald cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem

Bezel setting: In this setting style, a band of metal surrounds the diamond’s girdle. As a result, the diamond’s circumference may appear to be larger. Bezel engagement ring settings also afford extra protection against accidental bangs and bumps.

TIP: The bezel setting is generally used for round and oval diamonds. It is more difficult to create a bezel setting for other shapes, such as square and marquise diamonds.
TIP: Like rock climbing? Playing lacrosse? Vigorous exercise? The bezel setting protects the center stone, so it is a great choice for active people.
TIP: A bezel setting could deaden the brightness of a poorly cut diamond.

Diamond engagement ring with bezel settings.

This 0.53 ct diamond appears larger because of the bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Invisible setting: For this technique, small diamonds are cut with grooved pavilions and then slipped into a thin wire framework. This eliminates the need for prongs and allows the gems to be set against each other. The result is that the entire diamond is visible, and groups of diamonds can look like one large gem.

TIP: There is a drawback. Should a diamond in an invisible setting be damaged, it is extremely difficult to repair or replace it. So Invisible diamond engagement ring settings are probably not a good idea for physically active individuals.

Yellow gold ring with diamonds in an invisible setting.

An invisible setting can give the appearance of a field of diamonds. Courtesy: Ambar Diamonds

More Tips to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

Choose a thin ring shank or band: Here’s a way to trick the eye. A thin band can make a diamond look larger. Similarly, a thick band might overshadow the diamond.

Diamond ring with thick white metal band.

Left photo: A thick band nearly overwhelms the 1.68 ct diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co., Inc. Right photo: What a difference a band makes. The main diamond in this ring rightfully takes center stage. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International

Add side stones to your engagement ring setting: This is a great way to add sparkle and size to an engagement ring – and the options are endless. You could add a diamond baguette on each side of the center stone. You could pick colored stones to create contrast. You could use different colored metals around the side stones.

Unlike the melee used for pavé and halo settings, you may have the opportunity to choose the side stones. If you are uncomfortable making the choice, read our advice on choosing engagement ring side stones to get you started. If you have any questions, ask your jeweler for help, he/she will have a trained eye.

And last, but certainly by no means least: keep your diamond clean. While a clean diamond won’t look bigger, per se, it will display that signature sparkle that telegraphs “diamond” across a crowded room – and isn’t that what it’s all about?

Speaking of diamond sparkle, here are some tips and tricks to get the most sparkle out of your diamond engagement ring.

Melee Diamonds: Tiny Diamonds, Big Impact

April 11, 2017

Look at a beautiful engagement ring and you might see small diamonds, called melee diamonds (pronounced meh-lee), that accent the center diamond and make the ring pop. Melee diamonds are a popular way to add sparkle to diamond engagement rings.

So what do you need to know about melee diamonds to make an informed purchase?

In this post we’ll cover:
What Are Melee Diamonds
How Melee Diamonds Are Cut
Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds
Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

What Are Melee Diamonds?

GIA defines melee as small diamonds, either single cut or full cut (see definitions below), weighing less than 1/5 carat (ct). However, the exact size range of melee varies from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee diamonds can be as small as 0.001 ct (1/1000 of a carat). They are often cut into tiny round diamonds and set around a center stone or on the band.

Hundreds of melee diamonds glitter on a table, waiting to be sorted. Photo: GIA

How Are Melee Diamonds Cut?

Melee diamonds are produced in large quantities in factories that use the latest diamond cutting equipment. High-tech machines have reduced the amount of labor required and improved the quality of the finished product, but cutting and sorting melee is still a labor intensive business. The city of Surat in India is an important manufacturing hub for diamonds, including melee which are faceted, sorted, and sold in parcels of 100 carats or more to jewelry manufacturers who then set them in a wide array of jewelry.

Typical faceting styles for melee include:

Single cut: A cutting style with a round girdle outline and 17 or 18 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including a table, eight crown facets, eight pavilion facets and (very rarely) a culet
Full cut: A round brilliant-cut with 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including 32 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, a table and (usually) a culet

Sorting small rough diamonds by hand at Alrosa’s Lomonosov mine, Arkhangel, Russian Federation. Photo: Russ Shor/GIA

Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds

The more diamonds in a ring, the more sparkle it has. Due to their small size, melee diamonds are inexpensive when compared to larger diamond center stones, so they are often generously used in engagement ring designs to add sparkle. You’ll also find them as dazzling accents in watch faces, earrings and pendants – really in any piece of jewelry that calls for added sparkle and brilliance.

Halo setting: Melee diamonds are the building blocks for this popular setting, where tiny diamonds encircle the center stone. This style can add sparkle to a ring and draw attention to the center stone and make it appear larger.

Engagement ring featuring a halo setting of melee diamonds.

A halo of melee diamonds makes this engagement ring all the more dazzling. Courtesy: Ziva

Pavé setting: Pronounced “pah-vey” from the French for “to pave,” is a style of bead setting in which many small gems, like melee diamonds, are set close together to create an interlocking honeycomb pattern. It makes for a dramatic, sparkling look and it’s a setting style often used to make complex designs in engagement rings and other jewelry.

Cluster ring featuring 3.35 carats of diamonds in a pavé setting.

Pavé is the central design element in this cluster ring, pavé set with 3.35 carats of diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The pavé technique also allows for the creation of more affordable engagement rings, as small diamonds are generally less expensive than larger ones of comparable quality. So an engagement ring with pavé may be a good alternative for those on a budget.

Melee diamond and center stone engagement ring.

Melee diamonds transform a simple design into an intricate work of art. Courtesy: Laurence Bruyninckx – Antwerp

Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

While you’ll have to make decisions about the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of your diamond center stone, it’s unlikely you’ll have to select the melee for your engagement ring. Melee diamonds are sorted by color and clarity prior to being packaged into parcels and sold to jewelry manufacturers, who will then match them to the diamond center stone.

An independent diamond grading report is a must-have for your diamond center stone given its cost and any reputable jeweler will provide one. A grading report is your assurance that your diamond is natural and discloses any known treatments that may have altered its color or clarity. However, don’t expect to receive grading reports for your melee diamonds. There are a number of reasons why, but the overriding one is economic: The cost of grading for melee is too high in relation to their value. Melee are sold in large parcels often containing hundreds of diamonds so it is not practical to have each one graded.

Carat Weight vs Total Carat Weight

When buying a diamond engagement ring with melee diamonds, it’s important to understand the difference between “carat weight” and “total carat weight,” because diamond weight is a driving factor in determining price. Total carat weight, often abbreviated “tcw” in the jewelry industry, is used to describe the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds. The description carat weight, abbreviated “ct,” only applies to an individual stone, like the center stone. A ring with many small diamonds with a combined total weight of 2.50 carats (or tcw) can cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring with a single diamond weighing 2.50 ct. That’s because larger diamonds are more rare than smaller ones of comparable quality, and therefore they cost more per carat.

Piaget Limelight ladies watch featuring 4.37 carats of melee diamonds.

Shining like stars in the night sky, some 4.37 carats of melee diamonds twinkle in this luxurious Piaget Limelight tonneau-shaped ladies watch. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The sparkle in your engagement ring telegraphs your love to the world. Melee diamonds can make it glow a bit brighter. But if you’re looking to add even more sparkle to your engagement ring, you can go beyond melee diamonds with these additional engagement ring tips.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring — A Modern Take on Tradition

March 14, 2017

Princess cut engagement rings are relative newcomers on the diamond engagement ring scene. They’ve gained popularity for their breathtaking brilliance and fire. Discover this distinctive diamond, known for its attention-grabbing sparkle.

The princess cut is among the newest diamond cuts—especially when compared to round and cushion styles that have origins dating back centuries. This stunning cut was first developed in 1979, and is second only to the round brilliant cut diamond as the top choice for engagement ring diamonds. Its royal name “princess” undoubtedly contributes to its appeal. If you are looking for a special diamond, a princess cut engagement ring offers a tremendous amount of brilliance and beauty.

White gold Princess cut engagement ring with pave set accent diamonds

Mark Schneider’s 18K white gold Affection engagement ring with a princess cut center stone and pavé set accent diamonds has an elegant beauty. Courtesy: Mark Schneider Design

It’s not difficult to understand the attraction of this striking diamond cut. Unlike emerald cut engagement rings and other square- or rectangular-shaped diamonds that feature a step cut faceting style, princess cut diamonds have a modified brilliant facet arrangement, offering both electrifying sparkle and a strong, attention-grabbing shape.

How to Find the Right Princess Cut Engagement Ring Diamond

For the most appealing appearance, consider the diamond’s length-to-width ratio. To be called a square princess cut, the ratio cannot exceed 1.05:1. Rectangular princess cuts can have various ratios, but commonly they are no greater than 1.25:1.

Bezel set princess cut diamond engagement ring

A ring with a vintage feel, the Alvadora features a bezel set Princess cut diamond, a latticed halo, milgrain detail and accent diamonds. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

Beyond shape, symmetry influences the desirability of a princess cut stone. When viewed from above, faceting should match on both sides of its midpoint, both vertically and horizontally. The importance of symmetry applies below the girdle as well. When a princess cut diamond is turned face down, the faceting and shape of each side should mirror the side opposite.

Learn more about how to select a princess cut diamond.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring: Setting Considerations

Princess cut diamonds are often set as elegant solitaires to show off their arresting beauty. Side stones featuring crisp, angular lines—such as triangles or baguettes—can enhance the presentation of a princess cut diamond. This cut adapts well to a variety of settings, though its straight contours seem an obvious fit for contemporary, architectural diamond engagement ring styles.

14K white gold princess cut diamond engagement ring with accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats.

This beautiful 14K white gold Heaven’s Gates ring features a princess cut center stone and accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats. Courtesy: Scott Kay

When shopping for a princess cut engagement ring, it’s important to realize that the sharp pointed corners that contribute to the diamond’s bold geometry are also areas that are vulnerable to chipping. Choosing a setting with four V-shaped prongs, eight prongs with two at each corner (called split prongs), or a bezel setting will keep the corners unscathed and preserve a princess cut diamond’s regal profile.

Princess cut engagement ring with scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree

Simple yet elegant, this Kirk Kara tapered solitaire engagement ring has a princess cut center stone, scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree. Courtesy: Kirk Kara

An added bonus to this striking diamond cut may be its price. You may find that princess cut diamonds cost less per carat than comparable round brilliant cut diamonds. That’s because the cutter is able to retain more of the original diamond crystal.

Rose gold princess cut engagement ring with round cut white diamonds

18K rose gold Duchess collection ring with princess cut center stone and round cut white diamonds. Courtesy: Simon G Jewelry

So whether you select a princess cut for a diamond engagement ring because of its distinctive shape or its brilliant sparkle, your future bride will feel just as regal as her diamond’s namesake.

Ready to start shopping? Don’t leave home without learning more about diamonds and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality.

The Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring – A Symbol of Love

January 31, 2017

A heart-shaped engagement ring is unabashedly romantic and the perfect symbol of love. But did you know that heart-shaped diamonds are relatively uncommon in diamond engagement rings?

There are many reasons for this. Perhaps top among them the fact that the heart shape works best for larger diamonds – those that are at least one-half carat in size. But although uncommon, heart-shaped diamonds are having their moment in the spotlight. If you have your heart set on a heart-shaped engagement ring, read on for some tips to help you pick the perfect one.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: It’s All about the Outline and Symmetry

The outline needs to reflect a traditional heart shape. You may find some that have pointed lobes or very flat wings, rendering an outline that resembles an arrowhead. Symmetry is a key indicator of quality in a diamond of this shape. (After all, who wants an off-kilter sign of affection?) Both left and right sides of the heart should match in size and shape, although it’s not unusual for the width of the diamond to be greater than its length.

Here’s a helpful tip you can use when you’re in a jewelry store:
1. Draw an imaginary line down the center of the diamond you’re eyeing.
2. Check to see if both halves of the heart match in size and shape, from cleft (the center V-shaped region) to lobes (the rounded portions) to point.
3. A symmetrical heart-shaped diamond should also have a length-to-width ratio of 1:1 to 1:1.2.

Fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds.

Romance can sometimes be rocky, but the heart remains steady in this fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds. The left and right sides look identical. Courtesy: Norman Silverman.

You’re likely to see a number of heart-shaped diamonds that are asymmetrical. Examples of this include a poor length-to-width ratio, misshapen wings and an undefined point. Take a look at the asymmetrical heart-shaped diamond below.

Asymmetry detracts from the innate appeal of a heart-shaped diamond as the high shoulders, flatish wings and short length-to-width ratio of this stone illustrate.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Clarity Counts

Clarity characteristics can be easier to spot in heart-shaped diamonds. It’s best to look for a stone with good diamond clarity. Avoid diamonds with eye-visible inclusions that could diminish their beauty and affect their durability and value.

This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her.

All clear? Only a closer look – and a GIA Diamond Grading Report – can tell. This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Settings

Most heart-shaped engagement rings are relatively simple in design: streamlined styles emphasize the special silhouette of the diamond’s shape, which offers plenty of drama on its own. Consider classic solitaire settings or elegant halo designs that trace the outline of the central diamond in small, pavé-set stones.

Surrounding a heart-shaped diamond by melee and placing it in a halo setting protects the point – and creates a stunner of a ring. Courtesy: Yael Designs

As a practical matter, it’s smart to look for a diamond engagement ring that shields the point of a heart-shaped diamond, since it’s the part of the stone most vulnerable to damage. Once you’ve found the heart of your dreams, you’ll want to protect it.

Simple yet stunning, this lovely fancy brown-yellow 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond makes the perfect engagement ring. Courtesy: Mark Broumand

Ready to go shopping? Pick up more tips with our blog post on Picking a Heart-Shaped Gem. It gets into the details of choosing the perfect heart-shaped gem to symbolize your love.

Main Image: Per Lei single shank heart-shape engagement ring. Courtesy: Danhov

How to Get the Most Diamond Sparkle

January 24, 2017

Diamond sparkle might be one of the most-desired requirements for an engagement ring. A diamond’s breathtaking light show is one of the reasons we love this gem. But finding a diamond that sparkles requires some knowledge. So let’s get to it!

In this post, we’ll cover:
What Makes a Diamond Sparkle
How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles
Maximize Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats.

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone, creating numerous opportunities for sparkle. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

What Makes a Diamond Sparkle?

The short answer: light’s interaction with a diamond’s cut. The type and quality of the cut govern how a diamond reacts to the light around it. The angles and relative measurements of a diamond’s facets, as well as its other proportions, have a dramatic effect on how light performs when it strikes a diamond.

The long answer: You probably use the word “sparkle” in a very general way to describe the overall visual effect of a diamond’s interaction with light. But gemologists who have closely studied diamond’s signature light show break it down this way:

When light enters a diamond, it travels through it, reflecting off its interior surfaces, called facets. It then either leaves the diamond as white light, called brightness, or it divides into the spectral colors of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet, called fire.

Light leaving a diamond as spectral colors can be quite breathtaking. Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt.

As you or the diamond moves, an effect called scintillation occurs – visible as alternating flashes of white and spectral-colored light and the contrast of dark and light that moves around the diamond. This contrast is dynamic and causes, in layperson’s terms, sparkle.

How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles

Since diamond sparkle is all about how well the stone interacts with light, the environment in which you view the diamond and the diamond’s cut quality are critical.

1. Be sure to examine the diamond under four different light sources. Spot lighting (or a lot of individual light sources) is the best way to see all the elements that produce sparkle. However, if there are too many spot lights and they are too bright, there will be so much glare that one diamond will look just as good as any other.

To avoid this, observe the diamond in an environment where the spot lighting is not overwhelming. Then look at the diamond in diffused lighting — fluorescent lights that bounce light off a white ceiling are best. Third, try to view it in a mixed lighting environment of spotlights and diffused lighting. And, finally, don’t forget to view the diamond in natural daylight.

Learn more about how light affects the appearance of a diamond.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond is a visual delight in this engagement ring. Courtesy: EraGem

2. Pay attention to cutting style. The more facets a diamond has, the more reflective surfaces there are to bounce and scatter light. A round brilliant cut diamond with its 57 or 58 facets will appear to have more sparkle than a single-cut diamond with only 17 or 18 facets. Learn how to pick a round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

If you have your heart set on a shape other than round, you can still get the sparkle if you look for diamond shapes cut in the brilliant faceting style. These include princess, radiant, oval, pear, heart and marquise.

This 8.06 ct Asscher cut diamond from Cartier, circa 1935, is spectacular. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Pay attention to cut quality. There’s another solution for standard round brilliants, if you’re unsure about judging a diamond’s sparkle. A GIA Diamond Grading Report can be of great value in finding a diamond that sparkles. GIA issues one of five cut grades for a round brilliant diamond: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

A diamond with an Excellent cut grade is very bright. It shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas, so the reflections appear crisp and well balanced. This tells you that the cutter created the best possible stone from the rough.

A Very Good cut grade means the diamond has bright areas evenly distributed across the stone’s crown and few distracting areas.

A diamond with a Good cut grade isn’t quite as bright – reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkness or dullness in the diamond.

A diamond with a Poor cut grade has much more prominent dark areas or dullness. Given the choice, most people would pick diamonds with either Very Good or Excellent grades.

This diamond has an Excellent cut grade: It is very bright and shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas. Reflections appear crisp and well balanced. If all else is equal, an Excellent cut grade pretty much guarantees an extremely attractive diamond. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Good cut grade. Its bright-reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkening around the girdle. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Poor cut grade. It has significantly more prominent dark areas; there’s a much smaller bright area. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

Learn more about how GIA grades diamond cut.

Maximizing Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

Looking for more visual bang for your buck when purchasing a diamond engagement ring? Here are some tips for getting the most diamond sparkle.

1. Bigger is not necessarily better. You may think: the larger the diamond, the more sparkle. But in reality, diamonds with identical proportions, color and clarity have the same amount of sparkle regardless of size. Visually, you might perceive a difference when comparing two diamonds that are dramatically different in size. For example, a 0.25 ct diamond may appear to sparkle less than the 1.00 ct diamond next to it. But when it comes to choosing a diamond, typically you’re making a selection between diamonds that fall within a narrow size range, so slight differences in diamond size would have no effect on your perception of sparkle. Again, this assumes the cut quality of the diamonds being compared is the same.

A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank.

Talk about sparkle! This three-stone engagement ring seems to have it all. A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank. Courtesy: ZIVA Jewels Inc.

2. Choose a diamond with good color and clarity. Researchers have found that brightness diminishes in diamonds that grade lower on the D-to-Z color range. Likewise, clarity issues in diamonds graded SI2 or I can diminish the appearance of fire. Both will reduce the sparkle in a diamond.

3. More diamonds, more sparkle. Definitely yes! More diamonds, whether big or small, will add more sparkle to your engagement ring. This is one reason why diamond side stones and pavé settings are so popular.

4. Pick the right setting. If you’re looking for a bigger visual display, a prong setting is better at allowing light to enter the diamond than bezel settings that cover more of the top surface of the diamond. Learn more about different setting styles.

This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond.

You can have lots of sparkle and still have a simple ring design. This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond. Courtesy: Pampillonia Estate and Fine Jewelry

5. Keep the diamond clean. This is probably the most important (and affordable) tip. A diamond that’s dirty will not sparkle. Diamonds have an affinity for grease, so it’s important to clean them regularly. Find out how to keep your diamond clean.

In the end, nothing adds sparkle to an engagement ring like the love with which it’s given. So follow your heart and relish the moment — you really can’t go wrong.

If you need a little extra help as you shop, check out our glossary of common engagement ring terms. They’ll help you better communicate your needs and desires with a jeweler.

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog