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GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

If you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, you’ve probably heard about diamond fluorescence, along with varying opinions about its pros and cons. Let’s dig into a few common myths about fluorescence and D-to-Z color diamonds.

In this blog, we cover:
Myth #1: All diamonds fluoresce
Myth #2: You can see diamond fluorescence – no matter the lighting
Myth #3: Diamond fluorescence can always be detected
Myth #4: Diamond fluorescence influences a diamond’s color grade
Myth #5: Diamond fluorescence is given a grade, just like color, clarity and cut
Myth #6: Diamonds only show blue fluorescence
Myth #7: Strong blue diamond fluorescence is bad
Myth #8: Diamond fluorescence detracts from a diamond’s sparkle and beauty
Myth #9: Fluorescence means the diamond is a “real” natural diamond
Myth #10: Fluorescence can make a diamond less durable
Myth #11: Diamond fluorescence does/doesn’t affect value


Myth #1: All diamonds fluoresce
FACT: The majority of diamonds do not fluoresce. In a study of more than 26,000 diamonds submitted for grading to GIA, researchers found that only approximately 25% to 35% of them exhibited some degree of diamond fluorescence when examined with a standard long-wave UV lamp. So, it’s likely that the diamond you’re eyeing does not fluoresce.


Myth #2: You can see diamond fluorescence – no matter the lighting
FACT: Diamonds that fluoresce only do so when they are exposed to invisible UV rays and other higher energy radiation sources such as X-rays and lasers. You might see your diamond fluoresce under a bright sun, in a tanning bed, at a dance club or in other places where strong fluorescent or black lights are used. But once the light source is removed, the diamond will stop fluorescing. Incandescent lighting will not cause a diamond to fluoresce.

Diamond earrings shown under incandescent light appear to be the same color.

When viewed with incandescent light, all the diamonds in these earrings appear to be the same color. Photo: GIA

Diamond earrings viewed under a UV lamp showing different degrees of diamond fluorescence.

When viewed with a UV lamp, the diamonds in the earrings show different degrees of diamond fluorescence. Photo: GIA


Myth #3: Diamond fluorescence can always be detected
FACT: Diamond fluorescence cannot always be detected. You need conditions where UV rays are present and the intensity of the fluorescence is strong enough to be observed. A reputable grading laboratory, like GIA, follows strict protocols to determine the presence of fluorescence. It also adheres to set standards in describing its intensity, to ensure objective and consistent reporting.

 A 1.42 carat step cut diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

Fluorescent or not, this 1.42 carat (ct) diamond engagement ring, with diamonds lining the band, captivates with its bold, clean lines. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com


Myth #4: Diamond fluorescence influences a diamond’s color grade
FACT: In assigning a diamond color grade, GIA examines the gem in a highly controlled viewing environment, designed to minimize the influence of fluorescence and to produce an accurate and objective assessment of the diamond’s color.

However, the way you perceive a diamond’s color grade may be affected by the extent to which it fluoresces – in a positive way. In a diamond lower on the GIA D-to-Z color scale (say, I to N) with a yellow tint, moderate-to-strong blue fluorescence may cancel out some of the yellow for a better color appearance than what its color grade would indicate. See Myth #7.


Myth #5: Diamond fluorescence is given a grade, just like color, clarity and cut
FACT: Diamond fluorescence is not one of the 4Cs – like color, clarity, cut and carat weight – which describe the quality of a diamond. GIA considers fluorescence an identifying characteristic – additional information that helps distinguish one diamond from another.

GIA diamond grading reports describe the intensity of fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong. If the fluorescence is Medium, Strong or Very Strong, the color of the fluorescence will be noted on the grading report.

Photo showing the intensity of diamond fluorescence described as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong under UV lighting (top) and under normal lighting (bottom).

A GIA Grading Report describes the intensity of a diamond’s fluorescence as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong. Composite photo in UV: Maha DeMaggio/GIA. Composite photo in normal light: Harold and Erica Van Pelt/GIA


Myth #6: Diamonds only show blue fluorescence
FACT: Diamonds can fluoresce in a variety of colors. These include orangy yellow, yellow, orange, red, white and green. Variations in the atomic structure, such as the number of nitrogen atoms present, cause the phenomenon. Blue, however, is by far the most common color of diamond fluorescence.

Rough diamonds displaying a range of colors when exposed to UV light.

These rough diamonds exhibit a range of colors when exposed to UV light. Photo: GIA


Myth #7: Strong blue diamond fluorescence is bad
FACT: GIA studied the influence of blue fluorescence on the appearance of a diamond under normal viewing conditions. The Institute found that average observers (meant to represent the jewelry buying public) could not consistently discriminate any fluorescence-related effects in the viewing environments most similar to those in which jewelry is purchased and worn.

However, GIA also found that strong blue diamond fluorescence could be beneficial. The results of its study revealed that, as noted for Myth #4, some strongly blue fluorescent diamonds were perceived to have a better color appearance than their color grade would suggest when viewed table-up, with no discernible trend table-down.

Composite photo of diamond necklace and one earring shown under normal lighting conditions (left) and a long-wave UV lamp (right).

Bejeweled fireworks: Half the diamonds in this necklace (132 carats total weight) and the one earring (3.20 ct center stone) in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave UV lamp (right). Composite photo: Harold and Erica Van Pelt/GIA. Courtesy: Harry Winston Inc., New York


Myth #8: Diamond fluorescence detracts from a diamond’s sparkle and beauty
FACT: Diamond fluorescence has little to no effect on a diamond’s sparkle, and research shows that it doesn’t impact beauty either.

A diamond’s sparkle is determined primarily by its cut, not by whether the diamond fluoresces or not. A diamond’s cut – that is, the angles and relative measurements of its facets, as well as its other proportions, design and craftsmanship – determines how well light performs when it strikes the diamond and how well it will sparkle.

A 1.29 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with diamond melee in the shank.

Even strong blue fluorescence would not affect the beauty of this 1.29 ct E color diamond engagement ring in normal lighting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com


MYTH #9: Fluorescence means the diamond is a “real” natural diamond
FACT: Absolutely not. The presence or absence of fluorescence should not be used as a DIY test to determine if your diamond is real. First, not all natural diamonds fluoresce under the standard UV lamp used by gemologists (see Myth #1). Second, some synthetic or lab grown diamonds do fluoresce to these wavelengths. Although differences have been noted in the intensity, color and pattern of fluorescence between natural and synthetic diamonds, there is overlap. Finally, some materials used to impersonate diamond – like cubic zirconia – can display fluorescence.

CVD diamond displaying strong pinkish orange fluorescence, with regions of strong blue or violet, when exposed to high-intensity ultra-short wavelengths.

Synthetic diamonds made by the chemical vapor deposition method may display strong pinkish orange fluorescence (among other colors), with regions of strong blue or violet, when exposed to high-intensity ultra-short wavelengths. Photo: Wuyi Wang/GIA


Myth #10: Fluorescence can make a diamond less durable
FACT: A diamond that fluoresces under a standard UV lamp has the same structural integrity as one with no reaction to it. Nothing in the submicroscopic structures that cause fluorescence inherently weakens the diamond.


Myth #11: Diamond fluorescence does/doesn’t affect value
FACT: Jewelry professionals disagree about whether fluorescence adds to or detracts from the value of a diamond. Some trade professionals believe those very rare diamonds at the high end of the D-to-Z color scale that have extremely strong blue fluorescence are worth less than their nonfluorescent counterparts because the fluorescence can affect their transparency by giving them a hazy or milky appearance. Conversely, some traders pay higher prices for blue-fluorescing diamonds of a lower color grade because, as noted above, they believe the fluorescence masks the faint to very light yellow color of these diamonds.

Diamond fluorescence and its effect on value is not a simple question, and there isn’t a simple answer. We recommend that you compare diamonds in a variety of lighting environments and choose the stone that you like best. Ultimately, GIA believes the beauty of a diamond is truly in the eye of the beholder.

A 1.67 ct diamond engagement ring set in platinum, surrounded by 0.56 carats of diamonds in the halo and shank.

Wouldn’t it be awesome if this 1.67 ct center diamond fluoresced in a night club? Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Is there a diamond fluorescence “fact” you’d like to verify? Leave us a comment below. In the meantime, if you enjoyed this post, you might like reading about common engagement ring myths.

There are so many diamond shapes to choose from when shopping for an engagement ring: round, square, marquise and more. Here’s a guide to what makes each shape special to help you pick the perfect diamond shape for your engagement ring.

First, it’s important to know the difference between a diamond’s shape and its cut. It is common in the diamond marketplace to refer to diamond engagement ring shapes as “cuts.”  Shape describes a diamond’s basic outline when viewed face up (round, square, oval, etc.). Cut, or cutting style, refers to how the diamond’s facets are arranged. For example, the most common cutting style for diamond shapes is the brilliant cut with an arrangement of 57 or 58 facets designed to maximize sparkle. So when you find that perfect emerald cut diamond engagement ring, know that what you have is actually a square or rectangular shaped diamond engagement ring.

Some diamonds, most commonly square or rectangular shapes, are step cut. Emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds are examples. The step cut has concentric rows of facets on the crown and pavilion for a more elegant look. However, not all square or rectangular diamonds are step cut; many are brilliant cut, like the radiant and princess cut diamond.

All diamond shapes other than round are called fancy shapes. Read on to learn more about these diamond shapes:

Round diamond shapes
Rectangular diamond shapes
Square diamond shapes
Marquise diamond shapes
Oval diamond shapes
Pear diamond shapes
Heart diamond shapes

A 1.00 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring accented by 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank.

A modern classic: This round diamond shape is brilliant cut to deliver the signature light show we’ve come to associate with diamonds. In this engagement ring, a 1 carat (ct) round center stone is given a boost of additional sparkle by the 0.50 carats of melee set in the halo and shank. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Round diamond shapes

What’s great about round diamond shapes

Round is the most popular of the diamond engagement ring shapes, and it holds this title because the round brilliant cut is designed to produce maximum brightness, fire and sparkle in a colorless diamond. The modern round brilliant cut diamond has a round girdle outline, 56 symmetrically placed triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table facet and an optional culet facet, for a total of 57 or 58 facets.

A vintage engagement ring featuring a 3.03 carat old European cut diamond and a 3.01 carat ruby.

Antique or modern? It’s hard to tell with this delicious pairing of an old European cut diamond weighing 3.03 ct and a 3.01 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Lapidaries have been cutting round diamonds for centuries, but it wasn’t until the invention of the bruting machine in the early 1870s that a round diamond could be more easily made with a pleasing, symmetrical outline. The first of these was the old European cut diamond, a precursor to the modern round brilliant cut but with a higher crown and greater total depth than its modern counterpart. The old European cut is still a popular choice for brides wanting an antique look.

 A 5.40 carat old European cut diamond engagement ring.

Old World charm abounds in this 5.40 ct old European cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem.com

What to look for in round diamond shapes

Symmetry is key when shopping for a round diamond to feature in your engagement ring. And if the diamond is cut as a round brilliant, as most are, pay attention to its cut quality, or how well it interacts with light. Look for brightness (often called brilliance) – the internal and external reflections of white light. Fire – the flashes of color seen as you rock the diamond under the store’s spotlights. Sparkle – spots of light that flash when the diamond moves. And scintillation – a combination of sparkle and balanced patterns of bright and dark areas. Well-cut round diamonds are brighter with more fire and scintillation than poorly cut ones, even if they’re of equivalent colorclarity and carat weight.

A 1.36 carat round brilliant cut diamond cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee.

A 1.36 ct round brilliant cut diamond is cradled by twisting bands of platinum studded with 0.96 carats of melee. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Avoid diamonds with extremely thin or “knife-edge” girdles or with inclusions near the girdle, which make them more vulnerable to damage.

To be certain of the quality of the cut on your round brilliant diamond, buy one with a GIA diamond grading report, which will provide an objective assessment. Look for a cut grade of Excellent or Very Good.

A modern diamond engagement ring featuring three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats set in platinum.

The emerald cut diamond is a long-standing favorite engagement ring shape. Renowned for its sophistication, its streamlined rectangular shape is often associated with the Art Deco period. This modern platinum ring features three emerald cut diamonds totaling 15 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Rectangular diamond shapes

What’s great about rectangular diamond shapes

Rectangular diamond shapes have a long history and a reputation for classic elegance in an engagement ring. The elongated shape can make a bride’s fingers look longer and more slender. Three of the most common rectangular diamond shapes are actually modified rectangles: the emerald cut, cushion cut and radiant cut.

Emerald cut: With its crisp, sophisticated lines, the emerald cut is the most popular of the step-cut diamonds. Its four longer sides have beveled corners with two, three or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion. An emerald cut diamond engagement ring is a perennial favorite with the stylish elite.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond engagement ring featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail.

A rectangular shaped cushion cut diamond is the star in this setting featuring a cluster of diamonds and milgrain detail. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion cut: Adorning the fingers of brides for centuries, the cushion cut diamond has curved sides and rounded corners. It typically has a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and large culet facet. Since the cushion cut retains more color face up than a brilliant cut, a cushion cut is well suited to colored diamonds. A cushion cut diamond will be a hit with a bride who favors an antique style for her engagement ring.

A 4.00 carat radiant cut diamond engagement ring wrapped with two diamond halos.

A bride-to-be would happily say “I will” as she puts on this 4.00 ct radiant cut diamond wrapped by two diamond halos. Courtesy: Uneek

Radiant cut: One of the newest rectangular shaped diamonds is the radiant cut, a modified brilliant cut introduced in 1977. It boasts the fire of a round brilliant cut diamond in a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners.

What to look for in rectangular diamond shapes

As with all diamond shapes, symmetry is important for rectangular diamonds. Facets on opposite sides should be parallel to one another, corners should be cropped to identical size and the culet should be well centered.

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring.

The cushion cut diamond is a shape that is both classic and contemporary. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

Emerald cuts do not hide inclusions as well as brilliant cuts due to their long rectangular facets, so high clarity is important. Emerald cuts are also less scintillating due to the step cut style of faceting. Since lots of scintillation masks lower color grades, this type of facet pattern looks best on a diamond with higher colors on the GIA D-to-Z color scale. However, it can intensify color in a colored diamond.

For radiant cut diamonds, look for brightness, sparkle and scintillation, as you would for a round brilliant cut diamond. Clarity is less of a concern, as the modified brilliant cut faceting pattern can disguise inclusions that would be more visible in an emerald cut diamond.

A 5.89 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring.

An emerald cut diamond like this 5.89 ct beauty exudes elegance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Square diamond shapes

What’s great about square diamond shapes

Square diamond shapes in engagement rings are perfect for the woman with long, slender fingers who wants them to look shorter. They are also a statement of individuality for a bride who would appreciate a contemporary alternative to the classic round brilliant cut. Want a square shaped diamond in your engagement ring? In addition to the square versions of the cushion cut, emerald cut and radiant cut diamonds described above, consider the princess cut or Asscher cut.

A princess cut diamond engagement ring with two tapered baguettes.

A princess cut diamond shows off its sparkle in this engagement ring. Two tapered baguettes add a dash of drama. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Created in 1981, the princess cut diamond has a modified brilliant facet arrangement that gives it electrifying sparkle and scintillation. For a very different, but surprisingly modern look, the Asscher cut – first introduced in 1902 but since modified for greater brilliance – is similar to a square emerald cut but with larger step facets, a higher crown and a smaller table. Unlike the pointed corners of the princess cut, the corners of an Asscher cut are cropped, giving it the appearance of an octagon.

A 9.57 carat Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds.

Love the combination of a square shape and a modified brilliant cut? Then you’re sure to fall for a ring like this one – a 9.57 ct Fancy yellow radiant cut diamond surrounded by 0.55 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: Vivid Diamonds and Jewelry

What to look for in square diamond shapes

Again, look for good symmetry. Facets should match on either side of an imaginary line drawn down the middle of the stone. Look for a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table and other facets.

Fine princess and Asscher cut diamonds will not have a culet facet, which must be taken into consideration when mounting the stone. The culet is a safety facet that helps protect the point on the pavilion from chipping when the diamond is loose or if it is exposed in a setting. In addition, for the princess cut, it is important to choose a prong or bezel setting that protects the pointed corners.

As with emerald cut diamonds, the Asscher cut is most effective for diamonds that are colorless (D–F on the GIA color scale) or colored diamonds.

An 8.06 carat art deco diamond engagement ring, mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting.

A square-shaped Asscher cut diamond, circa 1935, in a ring by Cartier Paris reflects the by-gone grandeur of the Art Deco era. The 8.06 ct diamond is mounted in a 12-prong platinum setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3.50 carat marquise shaped diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

This stunning 3.50 ct marquise shaped diamond is set in platinum with its delicate tips protected by V-shaped prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Marquise diamond shapes

What’s great about marquise diamond shapes

An attractive, elongated shape with a royal pedigree, the marquise (pronounced “mahr-keez”) was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of King Louis XV, as its outline resembled the shape of her mouth. Because of its shape, a marquise diamond ring will look larger face up than a round diamond of the same weight. A marquise diamond engagement ring can also make the finger appear longer and more slender.

What to look for in marquise diamond shapes

Several factors must be considered when choosing a marquise diamond for your engagement ring. You want a marquise that is neither too long (and thus may sacrifice brightness and pattern) or too short (“stubby”) and thus loses the benefit of length to your bride’s finger. The points at either end should be sharp.

A 0.91 carat marquise cut diamond engagement ring featuring two smaller marquise side stones.

Note the regal gentility of this 0.91 ct marquise diamond and the two smaller marquise side stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Symmetry is extremely important for marquise diamonds. Both sides (wings) should have the same amount of curve, and the facets on one side of that imaginary line down the center of the diamond should match exactly the shape and size of the facets on the other side. Since the tips of a marquise diamond are where it is most vulnerable, it is not unusual for them to have slightly greater girdle thickness. If the marquise diamond is prong set, choose V-shaped prongs for the tips. A well-cut marquise will typically display a minimal to no bow-tie pattern.

Learn how to spot the bow tie effect in diamonds.

A 5.31 carat oval diamond engagement ring set in 18K white gold.

Oval diamond shapes are making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why in this 18K white gold ring featuring 5.31 carats of diamonds from the Moval Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Oval diamond shapes

What’s great about oval diamond shapes

Although a shape that is many hundreds of years old, the oval diamond has gained popularity for engagement rings in recent years because of its elegance and the fire it shows when cut in the brilliant faceting style. In addition, with its greater surface area, an oval diamond may appear larger than a round brilliant diamond of the same weight (and, like rectangular and marquise diamonds, can help elongate shorter fingers). One advantage over other fancy shapes is that the rounded edges make it less prone to chipping.

What to look for in oval diamond shapes

Pay attention to proportion. Longer oval diamonds are preferred by some, but they are not practical to cut so tend to be harder to find.

As with other fancy diamond shapes, symmetry is essential to ensuring beauty in an oval diamond. Again, placing an imaginary line down the length of the diamond and then across its center, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Also look for a graceful outline and the size and nature of the bow-tie pattern. The bow tie on a well-cut oval diamond will be minimal or non-existent.

An oval cut diamond engagement ring featuring two diamond side stones.

The virtues of an oval cut diamond are easy to see in this engagement ring. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

A 5.76 carat pear shape morganite engagement ring set in 14K rose gold.

The pear shape is not just for diamonds. In fact, it’s a popular shape for the newest trend – morganite engagement rings. This 14K rose gold ring features a 5.76 ct morganite, surrounded by 0.58 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Pear diamond shapes

What’s great about pear diamond shapes

An irresistible blend of the marquise and round brilliant, the pear shaped diamond is a stylish choice among diamond shapes. Worn with the point toward the tip of the finger, its graceful, tapered shape can make the hand look slimmer and more elegant, perfect for an engagement ring.

An 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring.

Looking for inspiration? You don’t need to look further than this 8.41 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink pear shaped diamond ring. It sold at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction for $17.7 million on October 7, 2014. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to look for in pear diamond shapes

Pear shaped diamonds come in a variety of proportions, so there are many options for choosing one that flatters the finger. Look closely at the wings on either side of the point to make sure they are symmetrical, with the rounded end a good semi-circle. Since the point is the weakest feature, look for (and avoid) inclusions in that area. If prong setting the diamond, use a V-shaped prong on the point for greater protection.

As with oval and marquise diamond shapes, the bow-tie pattern on the table should be minimal, or better yet, non-existent.

A 1.39 carat fancy yellow pear shaped diamond engagement ring.

This 1.39 ct fancy yellow pear shaped diamond glows like a star in the evening sky. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A heart shaped diamond held in a pair of jeweler’s tweezers.

Like true love, a heart shaped diamond may be hard to find, since this shape works best with larger diamonds of good clarity. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Heart diamond shapes

What’s great about heart diamond shapes

The heart shaped diamond is the essence of romance. It is also a very flattering style for larger fingers.

What to look for in heart diamond shapes

There are good reasons why this is one of the rarest of diamond shapes for engagement rings. A well-shaped heart requires a large diamond, at least one-half carat. In addition, inclusions tend to be more prominent in this shape, so you want a diamond that has good clarity. Symmetry is also key: The well-rounded lobes should match in size and shape, as well as faceting style, and the cleft between them (as well as the point) should be well defined.

Ready to shop for your favorite diamond shape engagement ring? Follow the links for more tips and inspiration:

Round Shaped Engagement Rings
Emerald Cut Engagement Rings
Radiant Cut Engagement Rings
Cushion Cut Engagement Rings
Princess Cut Engagement Rings
Marquise Shaped Engagement Rings
Pear Shaped Engagement Rings
Oval Shaped Engagement Rings
Heart Shaped Engagement Rings

With its graceful, tapered outline, a pear shaped diamond is an elegant and flattering choice for an engagement ring. Here are the essentials for selecting the perfect pear shape.

  1. Learn the anatomy of a pear shaped diamond
  2. Look for symmetry in a pear shaped diamond
  3. The ideal length-to-width ratio is the one you prefer
  4. Check culet placement and position of inclusions
  5. Make sure the table is centered on a pear shaped diamond
  6. Avoid the bow-tie on a pear shaped diamond
  7. Choose a setting that protects the point of a pear shaped diamond
  8. Point up or down? You decide how to wear a pear shaped diamond

1. Learn the anatomy of a pear shaped diamond

Jewelers consider the pear shaped diamond a “fancy shape,” meaning it’s a shape other than round. Reminiscent of a tear drop, a pear shaped diamond blends the best of the round and marquise diamond shapes.

Since the parts of a pear shaped diamond contribute to its beauty, you should get to know them. Then you can shop for a pear shaped diamond engagement ring with a discerning eye.

Illustration showing the parts of a pear shaped diamond.

You’ll want to be able to name the parts of a pear shaped diamond when you’re looking at various stones. This shows the retailer you’re an informed buyer. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Look at the diamond face-up and pay attention to its outline. A pear shaped diamond should have gently rounded shoulders and wings. The wings should form attractive arches. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.

A 4.04 ct yellow pear shaped diamond and 3.02 ct colorless pear shaped diamond in a bypass engagement ring setting.

A bejeweled pair of pears: a 4.06 carat (ct) yellow pear shaped diamond is nestled against a 3.02 ct colorless diamond. The band, which flows from 18K white gold to yellow gold, echoes the colors of the stones. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The pear shaped diamond, like the round brilliant diamond, is faceted to deliver the most sparkle and brilliance. Here are the names of important parts of a faceted diamond, which you should know and are used in this blog:

  • Culet: The culet is a small facet at the bottom of the pavilion of a finished gem intended to prevent chipping and abrasion of the fragile tip. Some gems have no facet in this area, which is often called a closed culet.
  • Crown: The top part of a gem located above the girdle.
  • Girdle: A narrow band that circumscribes the edge of the plane separating the crown and pavilion.
  • Pavilion: The portion of a polished gem that is below the girdle. The purpose of pavilion facets is to reflect light toward the crown.
  • Table: A large facet in the center of the crown.
 A 3.83 ct pear shaped diamond.

On a black background, this 3.83 ct pear shaped diamond shines like a star in the night sky. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Atelier Marisa

Like many other fancy shapes (such as the marquise or heart shape), a pear shaped diamond tends to hold more color than a round brilliant. Therefore, it is best to choose a diamond that is high on the GIA color scale or a fancy-color diamond.

A 1.21 ct Fancy purplish pink pear shaped diamond engagement ring set in 18K gold.

Because pear shaped diamonds tend to hold more color than round brilliant diamonds, it is best to choose a diamond that is high on the GIA color scale or a fancy-color diamond like this 1.21 ct Fancy purplish pink diamond engagement ring set in 18K gold. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

2. Look for symmetry in a pear shaped diamond

Symmetry is key to the overall beauty of gemstones, but it’s even more important in some fancy-shape diamonds like oval diamonds, heart shaped diamonds, marquise diamonds and pear shapes. To see if a pear shaped diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the length of the gem and examine the two halves. The more closely they mirror each other, the better the symmetry is.

Notice how the shoulders, bellies and wings in the illustration below are identical on either side of the line, and how the shape, size and placement of the facets in each half of the stone mirror one another. This is an ideal pear shape. You can use the illustration as a guide when picking a pear shaped diamond.

Illustration demonstrating perfect symmetry in a pear shaped diamond.

Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

When GIA diamond graders evaluate the symmetry of fancy-shape diamonds, which includes pear shapes, they also look for things like a balanced and even outline. Certain types of asymmetry and uneven proportions are considered by most in the jewelry trade to have a negative effect on the appearance of a pear shaped diamond. These include:

  • High shoulders
  • Flat wings
  • Bulged wings
  • Undefined points

Uneven shoulders and uneven wings are other variations that will detract from the appearance of a pear shaped diamond. The illustration below has both.

Illustration showing an uneven outline of a pear shaped diamond with asymmetry in its shoulders, belly and wings.

The uneven outline of this pear shape reveals the asymmetry of its shoulders, belly and wings. You might want to avoid a diamond cut like this. Illustration: GIA

3. The ideal length-to-width ratio is the one you prefer

You might run into the phrase “length-to-width ratio” (comparison of the length and width of the outline of many fancy-shape diamonds, determined by dividing the diamond’s length by its width and stated as a ratio, like 1.75:1). Many experts prefer a length-to-width ratio that lies in the range of about 1.50–1.75:1. Others in the trade believe that a ratio isn’t enough to convey a diamond’s beauty. You may want to let your heart and eye guide you.

A 0.88 ct pear shaped diamond engagement ring accented with a halo of diamonds and melee in the shank.

Falling in love with any diamond is more than finding the perfect symmetry and length-to-width ratio. Are you infatuated with this 0.88 ct pear shaped diamond? Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

4. Check culet placement and position of inclusions

The placement of the culet on a pear shaped diamond can affect its appearance. It should be the same distance from the two sides of the diamond. A culet that is off-center will affect the diamond’s symmetry and is likely to make it less attractive. In some pear shapes, the culet is included in a keel line that extends down the length of the diamond where the pavilion facets meet. Like the culet, the keel line should be equidistant from either side of the diamond.

An Illustration of a pear shaped diamond showing an off-center culet.

The culet on this pear shaped diamond is off-center. It should be symmetrically placed at the same distance from either side of the gem. Illustration: GIA

Note, too, whether the diamond has any inclusions, especially near its point, as this is the area of that is most sensitive to damage. In addition, if the pear shaped diamond has a larger table facet, inclusions could be more apparent, so good clarity is a consideration.

5. Make sure the table is centered on a pear shaped diamond

A poorly placed table facet can also make a pear shaped diamond look less attractive. For maximum brightness and fire, the table should be centered on the line of symmetry.

An illustration of a pear shaped diamond showing an off center table.

If the table is off-center, the crown facets on one side of the pear shaped diamond will appear larger than the facets on the opposite side. Illustration: GIA

6. Avoid the bow-tie on a pear shaped diamond

Many pear shaped diamonds show a dark pattern that resembles a bow-tie. This pattern typically runs across the width of the stone from the center of the table. The bow-tie on a well-cut pear shaped diamond should be minimal, but there will still be good contrast between light and dark areas in the stone.

A bow-tie can vary from light gray to black. The darker or larger it is, the more it detracts from the face-up appearance of a pear shaped diamond. A bow-tie gets darker as the difference between a diamond’s length and width increases and pavilion angle variations (the measured angle between the pavilion main facet plane and the table plane) become more extreme.

If you find the bow-tie effect distracting, be sure to examine a variety of pear shaped diamonds from different angles under the lighting conditions in which the engagement ring will be worn. You may not be able to avoid a bow-tie altogether, but you should be able to find a stone in which it is subtle.

These pear shaped diamonds display a bow-tie effect, the dark area that extends across the width of each stone.

These pear shaped diamonds display a bow-tie effect, the dark area that extends across the width of each stone. Photo: Nicholas DelRe/GIA

7. Choose a setting that protects the point of a pear shaped diamond

The most vulnerable part of a pear shaped diamond is the point. This area can be protected by placing a V-prong on the point or choosing a bezel setting around the entire stone.

An 8.25 ct pear shaped diamond engagement ring in a V-prong platinum setting.

A V-prong protects the point – an area susceptible to chipping – of this 8.25 ct pear shaped diamond. Four more prongs hold the diamond securely in place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A bezel setting ensures that this 0.40 ct pear shaped diamond is well protected.

A bezel setting ensures that the 0.40 ct pear shaped diamond is well protected. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

8. Point up or down? You decide how to wear a pear shaped diamond

The traditional way to wear a pear shaped diamond engagement ring is to have the tip pointing away from you (down). According to many in the trade, this makes the finger look more slender. But tradition has its limits. Some brides choose to wear this shape with the point toward them (up). And some prefer a horizontal setting that gives this classic diamond shape a distinctive, contemporary look.

Like all matters of the heart, let yours decide which way the pear should point.

A 1.34 ct Art Deco style pear shaped diamond engagement ring with radiant cut diamonds and sapphires.

Whether the tip of the 1.34 ct pear shaped diamond points toward or away from you, an engagement ring like this will look spectacular on the finger. The center stone is surrounded by 43 radiant cut diamonds weighing 0.41 carats and 1.03 carats of sapphires. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Among the most elegant of the fancy shapes, a pear shaped diamond conveys both the delicacy of a single tear and the strength of the brightest star. While there are many factors to consider when searching for the perfect stone for your diamond engagement ring, it is a journey well worth taking. When deciding between different pear shaped diamonds, the overall appearance is more important than the specific proportion details. Often, what makes a pear shaped diamond attractive is a matter of personal taste. So enjoy looking at different pear shaped diamond engagement rings until you fall in love with the perfect one.

Before you go shopping, be sure to read our 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

If you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, you need to know about what diamond color is if you want to understand quality and how diamonds are valued. If you are curious about what colors diamonds come in and how color grade impacts value, check out our seven essential things about diamond color you should know.

In this blog we cover:

  1. Diamond value is based (in part) on the absence of color.
  2. A diamond’s color grade should be determined by a grading laboratory.
  3. Colored diamonds are graded and valued differently from colorless diamonds.
  4. Treatments can improve diamond color.
  5. Diamond fluorescence has little to no impact on diamond color.
  6. Engagement ring settings can influence the perception of diamond color.
  7. To be sure of a diamond’s color, get a GIA grading report.

1. Diamond value is based (in part) on the absence of color

Diamond color is important: Most diamonds used in engagement rings are near-colorless with hints of yellow or brown. All things being equal, the more colorless a diamond is, the rarer it is, and this rarity will be reflected in its price.

GIA D-to-Z diamond color scale.

The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale allows for precise measurement of diamond color. Illustration: GIA

GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is used to measure the degree of colorlessness of a diamond. The letter “D” represents a colorless diamond, with each following letter representing a diamond that has slightly more yellow or brown.

GIA organizes diamond color into five groups:

  • Colorless (D-F): The most rare, and therefore the most valuable
  • Near-colorless (G-J): Color is often unnoticeable except by trained graders
  • Faint (K-M): Color is still difficult to see by the untrained eye
  • Very Light (N-R): Subtle color can be seen in larger stones by an untrained eye
  • Light (S-Z): Color can be seen in stones of different sizes. The diamonds appear slightly yellow or brown but do not have sufficient color to be considered a “fancy” colored diamond
GIA D-to-Z diamond color scale showing diamonds at either end of the grading spectrum.

When diamonds at either end of the grading spectrum are placed side by side, it is easy to see the differences in diamond color. Photo: GIA

2. A diamond’s color grade should be determined by a grading laboratory

The distinctions between diamond color grades can be so subtle that they are undetectable to the untrained eye. But they do make a very big difference in diamond price. That’s why determining a diamond’s color grade is best left to a gemological laboratory, like GIA, that has the expertise and processes to ensure objective, unbiased color grading.

In working to evaluate what color a diamond is, GIA graders follow a strict protocol that dictates the type of lighting and neutral background used, as well as precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed during the assessment. A color grade is determined by comparing the diamond to masterstones – a set of color-comparison diamonds of known position on the GIA D-to-Z color grading scale – when all are placed table down in a grading tray. This viewing position reduces the complex appearance of a faceted colorless to near-colorless diamond when viewed face up.

A 6.75 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring featuring a diamond melee halo and band.

One look at this 6.75 carat (ct), F-color, SI-clarity round brilliant and you’ll know why diamonds are the universal symbol of love. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Colored diamonds are graded and valued differently from colorless diamonds

Diamond color is arguably the most important factor in colored diamonds. Some common colors that diamonds come in are yellow, brown, pink, red, blue, orange, purple, green, gray or black. This does not include diamonds in the normal color range that are slightly yellowish, slightly brownish or slightly grayish. When the color is natural, the diamonds are called fancy-color diamonds, fancy diamonds or fancies.

Colored diamonds come in a rainbow of hues.

Colored diamonds come in a rainbow of hues. Photo: Robert and Orasa Weldon/GIA

GIA grades colored diamonds differently from colorless diamonds. Unlike GIA’s D-to-Z grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds, which is based on the absence of color when the diamond is viewed table down, the grading system for colored diamonds is based on the presence of color when the diamond is viewed face up. Terms used by GIA to describe colored diamonds include: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Dark, Fancy Intense, Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid.

What to look for in colored diamonds? In general, the more color a colored diamond has, the better. Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid diamonds, for example, have more color than Fancy Light diamonds—and are usually more valuable. However, tone is also important: For example, a diamond that is extremely dark (Fancy Dark) may be less desirable than a lighter stone graded Fancy Intense.

A 3.66 ct Fancy Yellow diamond engagement ring with two halos containing 0.37 carats of yellow diamonds and 1.50 carats of colorless diamonds.

Colored diamonds can be far more expensive than colorless diamonds. Here a 3.66 ct Fancy Yellow glows like a ray of sunshine. Two halos encircle it: the inner containing 0.37 carats of yellow diamonds; the outer, 1.50 carats of colorless diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Fancy-color diamonds are, for the most part, far rarer than diamonds in the D-to-Z color range. Some experts estimate that only two percent of total rough diamond production is fancy colored. Since rarity influences price, it’s not surprising that spectacular blue, pink, green, orange and other colored diamonds can sell for millions of dollars at auction.

The Pink Star ring, which sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $71 million, contains a 59.60 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond graded by GIA.

The GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink 59.60 ct Pink Star diamond sold for $71 million at the April 4, 2017 Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

4. Treatments can improve diamond color

Diamond color can be altered by treatments. All else being equal, diamonds that have not been treated are more expensive than diamonds that have been treated. Legally, the seller must disclose any treatments. If you are aware what diamond color is, it’s easier to understand how they have been treated. 

High pressure, high temperature (HPHT) processing is perhaps the most common technique used to alter, enhance or remove color. HPHT treatment can change some brown diamonds into colorless ones or into other colors like yellow, greenish yellow or green. This process is also associated with treated pink, blue and orange-yellow diamonds. The resulting color is considered permanent, but HPHT treatment should always be disclosed.

Annealing is another process that uses controlled heating and cooling to change the color of a gem material, especially after irradiation. Irradiating a diamond or coating it are other methods used to enhance a diamond’s color.

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A 6.61 ct Fancy yellow brown diamond (left) before annealing and the same diamond (right), graded L (faint yellow) after annealing.

Before HPHT annealing to remove color, this 6.61 ct diamond was a Fancy yellow brown (left). After annealing (right), GIA graded the diamond an L (faint yellow). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

5. Diamond fluorescence has little to no impact on diamond color

Diamond fluorescence is visible light temporarily emitted by some diamonds when they are exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun, fluorescent lamps or other sources. This emitted light can display various colors (often blue in diamonds), intensities (faint to very strong) and distribution patterns. When the light source is removed, the fluorescence is no longer visible.

Many in the diamond trade believe that strong blue fluorescence can make a light yellow diamond look closer to colorless when exposed to a UV source such as sunlight. Blue and yellow are color opposites and tend to cancel each other out, so blue fluorescence masks the yellow color. In rare cases, some diamonds with extremely strong fluorescence may appear slightly hazy or oily. Fewer than 0.2% of the fluorescent diamonds submitted to GIA exhibit this effect.

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A group of seven diamonds shown under daylight-equivalent illumination (left) and exposed to long-wave UV irradiation (right).

The same group of seven diamonds is shown here under daylight-equivalent illumination (left) and when exposed to long-wave UV irradiation (right). Photos: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

To answer questions from consumers and the trade about the impact of fluorescence on diamond color in the D-to-Z range, GIA conducted extensive observer testing. Here’s what its researchers found: “For the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, no systematic effects of fluorescence were detected [on the face-up appearance of the groups of diamonds]. Even the experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.” As a result, GIA considers diamond fluorescence to be an identifying characteristic, not a grading factor – meaning, it has little to no impact on what color the diamond is.

6. Engagement ring settings can influence the perception of diamond color

Diamonds are highly reflective – their facets are essentially an arrangement of tiny mirrors reflecting light and the surroundings. So it should come as no surprise that the color of a ring’s prongs and shank can influence the color you see in the diamond. A white metal like platinum or white gold can emphasize the absence of color in a diamond that is colorless or near-colorless, while a gold band might make a diamond lower on the D-to-Z scale appear more yellow.

Learn more about how metal affects a diamond’s color appearance.

A 8.03 carat D color marquise cut diamond engagement ring set in platinum, flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing 0.72 carats.

The 8.03 ct marquise cut diamond in this engagement ring is D color. It is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing a total of 0.72 carats. The platinum band and prongs highlight the beauty of the diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. To be sure of a diamond’s color, get a GIA grading report

A GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Origin Report provides an in-depth assessment of a diamond’s quality based on the 4Cs: diamond color, clarity, cut and carat weight. A report not only contains an objective color grade, but it also discloses other identifying characteristics like fluorescence, as well as any treatments detected. Learn what diamond color information is included in a GIA report.

An engagement ring is profoundly intimate and symbolic – it represents your love and commitment. A GIA Diamond Grading Report lets you make this most important purchase with peace of mind.

Now that you understand  what diamond color is and  its importance, here are 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

Lead image courtesy of 1stdibs.com

GIA diamond is a term you’ll find when engagement ring shopping – short for a diamond graded by GIA, the creator of the 4Cs and the independent, diamond authority. Learn more about GIA diamonds and why savvy shoppers rely on GIA.

In this blog, we answer the following questions:

What is a GIA diamond ?
Is every diamond a GIA diamond ?
What does it mean for a diamond to be a “GIA certified diamond”?
How does GIA ensure objectivity when grading diamonds?
Do I really need to get a diamond graded?
How do you get a diamond “GIA certified”?
Do “GIA certified” diamonds cost more?
Where can I find a GIA diamond ?

What is a GIA diamond ?

As mentioned above, a GIA diamond is really shorthand diamond sellers use to describe diamonds that have been graded by GIA. GIA is an independent, nonprofit organization that conducts gem research, educates gem professionals and sets the standards for determining diamond quality. One of GIA’s main functions is the grading of diamonds. You may have already heard or learned about the 4Cs of diamond quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. GIA created this standard, along with the scientific procedures for evaluating each “C” and the grading terminology used to describe them.

GIA does not mine diamonds, nor does it buy, sell or trade them commercially. It doesn’t appraise diamonds and is not otherwise involved in diamond pricing or valuation. GIA operates independently of these commercial interests, ensuring that its diamond quality assessments are completely objective and unbiased.

If you want to know the quality of the diamond you’re considering – and you should, because quality and price go hand in hand – then you should look for GIA-graded diamonds and the GIA diamond grading reports that will accompany them.

Is every diamond a GIA diamond ?

No, not all diamonds have been graded by GIA. Although it may seem that way given the sheer quantity of GIA-graded diamonds in the marketplace. This volume is a testament to the trust jewelers and their customers place in GIA’s accurate and independent grading services.

To be sure your diamond was graded by GIA, ask to see its GIA grading report. In addition to a full assessment of the diamond’s 4Cs, the GIA report contains a unique number, which is also sometimes inscribed on the diamond’s girdle. You can use the report number to access GIA’s online global report database, GIA Report Check, to verify that the diamond is GIA graded and view all its grading details.

A 1 carat (ct) diamond engagement ring set with 0.50 carats of diamond melee.

Round is the most popular diamond shape for engagement rings and a GIA report will contain a cut grade for round brilliant cut diamonds. This 1 carat (ct) diamond center stone is cradled by another 0.50 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: BlueNile

What does it mean for a diamond to be a “GIA certified diamond”?

“GIA certified diamond” is a misnomer. GIA doesn’t certify diamonds – it grades them. The terms “GIA certified” and “GIA cert” are commonly used in the jewelry industry to refer to diamonds that have undergone GIA’s rigorous grading process and to the reports that accompany them.

GIA itself does not use the word “certificate” to describe the document it issues. GIA examines the diamond, assesses its qualities based on the 4Cs, and describes it. It does not certify the diamond or its value. Rather, like other scientific laboratories, GIA issues a report on the results of its evaluation of a particular diamond and believes “report” is the appropriate term to describe its grading results.

An Internally Flawless, D color 2.78 ct round brilliant cut diamond.

This GIA-graded, Internally Flawless 2.78 ct round brilliant cut diamond received GIA’s highest grade for color: D. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

GIA Diamond Reports

How does GIA ensure objectivity when grading diamonds?

GIA has robust procedures in place to ensure a diamond’s anonymity and the objectivity of the grading process. Upon arrival to the laboratory, the diamond is placed in a transparent storage case and all references to its owner are removed or concealed. It is assigned a bar-coded label that is used to track it throughout the process. All these precautions ensure that a GIA grading report objectively represents a diamond’s characteristics.

A 7.82 ct cushion cut diamond engagement ring.

The cushion cut diamond – a historical favorite – is trending again, and it’s easy to see why when you look at this 7.82 ct stunner, which GIA graded J color, VS2 clarity. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

GIA diamond graders meticulously assess the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of the diamond. More-experienced staff gemologists may review any or all of the grading information and render independent opinions. A grade is not issued until sufficient consensus is reached.

Watch a diamond go through GIA’s grading processes.

Do I really need to get a diamond graded?

A diamond engagement ring is one of the most important purchases you’ll make. It may also be one of the most expensive. Because of this, you’ll want to be sure that you’re getting a good value for the diamond you’re considering.

A GIA diamond grading report gives you all the important information you need to know about a diamond’s 4Cs, as well as its fluorescence, any treatments and more. With a GIA diamond grading report you can be sure that your diamond is a natural diamond. That’s because GIA has examined and tested the diamond using the most sophisticated instruments and procedures available, informed by the Institute’s ongoing scientific research.

Since a GIA diamond grading report is an unbiased assessment of a stone’s quality characteristics, it lets you compare one GIA-graded diamond to another. This empowers you to compare the quality of loose diamonds, and decide which one is the best value and right for you.

Making sure the diamond you’re eyeing comes with a GIA diamond grading report is like getting an independent inspection before you buy a car or house. It’s a smart step in your purchase process – and many insurance companies will require a GIA grading report as a basis for insuring your diamond.

An H-color, VS2 clarity, 1.10 ct princess cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by 0.96 carats of diamond melee.

GIA grades diamonds of all shapes, and the square-shaped princess cut is one of the more popular for engagement rings. This H-color, VS2 clarity, 1.10 ct princess cut diamond is surrounded by another 0.96 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

How do you get a diamond “GIA certified”?

GIA doesn’t certify diamonds, it grades them and anyone can submit a diamond to GIA for grading. You can drop off a stone at any of GIA’s nine laboratories, located in gem and jewelry capitals around the world, or you can ship it to GIA. However, given the complexities of packaging, shipping and insuring diamonds, and because GIA only grades unmounted gems, your best option is to work with your local jeweler to submit the stone on your behalf.

Many diamonds in stores and online will already have a GIA grading report, which you can ask to see prior to purchasing. Your diamond’s report should also be given to you once you complete your purchase.

Do “GIA certified” diamonds cost more?

Again, “GIA certified” is really a misnomer for GIA graded diamonds. There’s a false notion that GIA diamonds cost more, often based on comparing diamonds by price tag alone. The price of a diamond, a car or any other item of value is tied to quality. If you can’t be sure of the quality you’re getting, how do you know if you’re paying too much or getting a good deal? That’s why it’s important to compare prices for diamonds that have the same 4Cs quality characteristics and whose qualities have been accurately and objectively graded by the same independent laboratory like GIA.

Having a diamond graded by GIA is not expensive. GIA charges as little as $48 for a grading report for a diamond weighing 0.70 ct to 0.99 ct, and as little as $80 for a diamond weighing 1.00 ct to 1.49 ct. (Most jewelers factor grading fees into the price of the diamond.) Considering that couples spent an average of $6,351 on an engagement ring in 2017, the cost of a GIA diamond grading report is a small price to pay for peace of mind.

A 3.55 ct emerald cut diamond engagement featuring 24 baguettes and 136 round diamonds on the shank.

This 3.55 ct emerald cut diamond received high grades on its GIA report: F color and VS2 clarity. Another 24 baguettes and 136 round diamonds totaling 1.62 carats decorate the band. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where can I find a GIA diamond ?

Most quality jewelers offer diamonds with GIA grading reports. The GIA Retailer Lookup can help you find retailers in your area who carry GIA-graded diamonds or have GIA-trained staff. Popular e-commerce websites also sell GIA diamonds.

Ready to shop for an engagement ring? Make a smart and beautiful purchase by reading our 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

A lot of love and care went into choosing and giving your engagement ring, so now it’s time to give wedding bands your undivided attention. The choices seem endless, but we’ve gathered some popular looks to help narrow things down for you. (more…)

Love may be eternal, but trendy engagement ring styles are meant to capture the moment you fell in love. Trending diamond shapes include marquise, cushion cut and oval. Pink is in, as are two-tone halo settings. (more…)

Comparing loose diamonds for an engagement ring? Don’t be dismayed by the dizzying array of choices. The important thing is understanding how to compare loose diamonds. Here are six easy steps to help you pick a diamond that’s beautiful and a smart purchase.

(more…)

Selecting the right metal for your engagement ring setting is just as important as selecting the right diamond. The metal will not only define the ring’s style, but it can also play a big role in your diamond’s color appearance. Here’s how to choose wisely.

A solitaire center stone surrounded by diamond melee in a gold engagement ring setting.

A gold engagement ring allows the solitaire diamond to be the star of the show. Diamond melee along the ring’s shank play a supporting role, adding even more sparkle to the overall effect. Courtesy: Stuller Inc.

Gold, platinum and silver are the metals most often used in jewelry. Their allure, workability and durability make gold and platinum excellent choices for an engagement ring. For many people, choosing an engagement ring setting starts with a color and style preference. Some prefer the warmth of yellow gold or rose gold engagement rings; others opt for the coolness and classicism of white metals such as platinum or white gold for their engagement rings. Yet few people consider the effect that engagement ring’s metal color has on the most important feature of an engagement ring – the center stone, which is often a diamond.

A 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond set in a rose gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K rose gold band brings warmth to this 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The importance of diamond color and reflection

When choosing an engagement ring setting in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, platinum or silver, consider these important things:

Your diamond’s color. Although many people think of gem-quality diamonds as colorless, truly colorless diamonds are actually very rare. Most diamonds used in jewelry and diamond engagement rings are nearly colorless with hints of yellow, brown or gray. In picking an engagement ring in yellow gold, white gold or other metal for your ring setting, you’ll need to know where your diamond is on the GIA D-to-Z Color Scale.

The fact that diamonds are highly reflective. The many facets of a standard round brilliant diamond and other diamond shapes act like tiny mirrors reflecting their surroundings, including the color of the band and the prongs holding the gem.

Knowing this, you can use the color of the metal in your engagement ring to highlight your diamond’s color or create a more harmonious appearance.

A 1.20 ct emerald cut diamond set in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K gold band complements the hint of yellow in this 1.20 ct N color emerald cut diamond for a very harmonious look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you’ve settled on whether you want your engagement ring design to highlight the main diamond or create a sense of harmony between the setting and the center stone, you’ll have many options to choose from. Remember, your jeweler is your best resource. She or he will understand the subtle nuances of diamond color and can make the best metal color recommendations to achieve the look you’re going for. Also, the best way to see a metal’s effect on diamond color appearance is to see the diamond and the engagement ring setting in person. In the meantime, though, here are some tried and true ideas to get you thinking.

Metals for diamonds graded D through J

All things being equal for diamonds on the D-to-Z scale, the less color the stone has the more valuable it is. Diamonds graded D-E-F on the GIA color scale are considered colorless, and a white metal—platinum or white-gold engagement ring setting is the ideal choice to emphasize their beauty. Diamonds graded G through J are in the near-colorless range, with an almost imperceptible hint of yellow. They, too, are good candidates for a platinum or white gold ring setting.

If you choose another color of metal or opt for a two-tone ring to create contrast, the prongs that hold the diamond should be a white metal like white gold or platinum. Yellow gold prongs could impart some yellow color to the diamond, making your colorless or near-colorless stone look like it has a different color grade.

A 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes set in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A platinum band heightens the icy beauty of this 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo engagement ring setting.

Like the white look, but want some contrast? This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo, which adds visual richness to the design. Courtesy: PE Jay Creations

Metals for diamonds graded M through Z

A diamond with a color grade of M or lower will likely have a noticeable yellow tint. A yellow gold band will accentuate the yellow in the diamond; a white band might make the diamond appear more colorless. Diamonds with a color grade of K or L are in something of a middle zone; you can use either yellow gold or white metal bands such as platinum or white gold, depending on the effect you want for your engagement ring setting.

A K color diamond in a gold engagement ring setting.

The diamond center stone in this ring is a K color. A gold band brings out the hint of yellow, giving the diamond a softer appearance. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Set in a platinum engagement ring setting, this 11.04 ct yellowish diamond is surrounded by 5.05 carats of white diamond melee.

A fanciful platinum setting with 5.05 carats of white diamond melee provides a pleasing contrast with the 11.04 ct yellowish diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: MUNNU The Gem Palace

Picking metals for fancy-color diamonds

Diamonds that fall outside the D-to-Z color range are called “fancy colors.” Selecting the right metal to accentuate these unique stones is key to delivering the radiance and allure of each engagement ring. Naturally occurring colors include bluebrownpink, yellow and green. These diamonds are evaluated less for brilliance or fire and more for color intensity. Depending on the hue, tone and saturation of the color, the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System assigns colored diamonds one of these color grades: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark and Fancy Deep. Generally, Fancy Vivid and Fancy Deep command the highest prices.

Metals for brown diamonds

Brown diamonds were once deemed unsuitable for jewelry. Then marketers in the 1980s gave them tantalizing names like champagne, cognac and chocolate, and brown diamonds developed their own niche.

Like yellowish diamonds, brown diamonds can be placed on a white gold or platinum engagement ring setting to highlight their color, or they can be placed in a yellow gold or rose gold engagement ring setting to complement their color. Even the metal used for prongs can either contrast or complement the diamond in the center.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond in an 18K white gold engagement ring setting, surrounded by a double halo of white diamond melee.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond pops because it is set in an 18K white gold band and surrounded by a double halo of 0.39 carats of white diamond melee. White prongs accentuate the look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A yellow gold engagement ring setting featuring a brown cushion cut diamond accented with platinum prongs and white diamond side stones.

Neil Lane designed this ring for actress, model and Paralympic medalist Amy Purdy. A brown cushion cut diamond is the center stone. A yellow gold band creates a soft backdrop, while platinum prongs and white diamond side stones provide an arresting contrast. Courtesy: Neil Lane

Metals for yellow diamonds

Yellow diamonds were relatively rare until the discovery in the late 1860s of quantities of what today would be considered fancy yellows at several locations in South Africa. They are now found around the world. The presence of nitrogen gives them their color.

A platinum or white gold engagement ring can highlight the color of a yellow diamond, while a yellow gold ring will harmonize with the color of the yellow diamond.

A double halo engagement ring setting of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond

A double halo of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the frosty backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond with 1.08 carats if yellow diamonds in the halo and shank in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

The combination of a 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond, 1.08 carats of yellow diamonds in the halo and along the shank and an 18K yellow gold band creates an enchanting engagement ring setting. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Metals for pink diamonds

Pink diamonds are exceedingly rare. Historically, they have been found in Brazil’s alluvial workings and in Indian and African mines. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine in Australia has been the most important source of pink diamonds, but even here they are quite rare. According to Rio Tinto Ltd., the owner of the mine, “more than 800 million carats of rough diamonds have been produced from the Argyle Diamond Mine. Total carats of pink rough: less than 1% of total production.” Not surprisingly, pink diamonds are extremely expensive.

Since the color of pink diamonds is so prized, it is rare to see them set in a yellow gold engagement ring setting. A pink diamond is the star, and the white metal band is used to highlight its color.

A white metal engagement ring setting and double halo of white diamonds surround a 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond.

A white metal band and double halo of white diamonds form the elegant frame for this 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond. The piece sold for more than $28.5 million at a Christie’s auction in November 2015. Courtesy: Christie’s

Metals for blue diamonds

Blue diamonds are also extraordinarily rare and very expensive. India is their historic source, and it is believed that the 45.52 ct Hope Diamond, the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff and other famous blue diamonds originated there. Today, the Premier mine in South Africa, which opened in 1903, is considered the most significant source of blue diamonds. Nevertheless, at the end of the 20th century blue diamonds accounted for less than 0.1% of diamonds found there.

Like pink diamonds, they are almost always set in a platinum, white gold or silver engagement ring setting that highlights their color.

A 5.98 ct Fancy light blue diamond in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A natural 5.98 ct Fancy Light blue diamond sits in a platinum band. Courtesy: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada; Gift of Vincent Tovell. Certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act.

A beautiful engagement ring is the product of a number of choices that add up to a stunning creation. Knowing how to protect your diamond engagement ring setting is another important consideration.

The term 4Cs we know today had its start in the early 1940s, as the brainchild of GIA founder Robert M. Shipley. A former retail jeweler, Shipley was fiercely committed to professionalizing the American jewelry industry. He established an institute (GIA) to provide jewelers with formal training and was a tireless advocate for greater knowledge, ethics and standards when it came to buying and selling gems.

Robert M. Shipley, GIA Founder.

Robert M. Shipley founded the Gemological Institute of America in 1931. Photo: GIA

Shipley developed the 4Cs as a mnemonic device to help his students remember the four factors that characterize a faceted diamond: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. The concept was simple, but revolutionary.

Throughout history, diamond merchants used a variety of different, usually broad, terms to talk about these four factors, rarely with any consistency. Terms such as river or water were used to describe diamonds that were the most colorless, with Cape assigned to pale yellow diamonds from South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope region. To describe clarity, they referred to diamonds as being “without flaws” or “with imperfections.” Cut was described as “made well” or “made poorly.” As a result, it was very difficult for jewelers to communicate those elements of value to their customers or for their customers to remember them. Only the term carat to describe weight has been used consistently from the 1500s to today.

Under Shipley’s direction, the term 4Cs became part of the American gem industry’s vernacular, popularized through advertising campaigns, lectures and GIA education courses. Within decades, they were integrated into the international nomenclature as well.

The 4Cs and the Diamond Grading Scales

Jewelers welcomed Shipley’s innovation, but GIA did not stop there. Shipley’s successor as president, Richard T. Liddicoat (affectionately known as “RTL” by later generations of GIA staff) – along with colleagues Lester Benson, Joseph Phillips, Robert Crowningshield and Bert Krashes – expanded on the 4Cs.

Richard T. Liddicoat, president of GIA from 1952 to 1983.

Richard T. Liddicoat, president of GIA from 1952 to 1983, integrated the 4Cs into GIA’s curriculum and laboratory reports. Courtesy: Norman B. Samuels Portrait Photographers, Los Angeles

Their work included not only development of the now famous GIA D-to-Z Color Scale and GIA Clarity Scale for diamonds, but also the scientific methods and procedures for objectively grading a diamond’s quality.

2.78 carat (ct) D-color round brilliant diamond that is internally flawless.

A 2.78 carat (ct) D-color round brilliant diamond that is internally flawless is a wonder of nature. GIA invented the color- and clarity-grading terminology that is now used internationally to describe diamond quality. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

Color: The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale

Before the 4Cs and RTL’s contributions, a confusing alphabet soup was used to describe a diamond’s color. In communicating color quality to consumers, retailers used competing systems with descriptors like “A,” “AA” and “AAA.” There was virtually no agreement among firms as to what was considered an “A” grade. Most diamond wholesalers used terms like rarest white and top Wesselton, in addition to those mentioned above. In short, there were no standards that allowed for consistent evaluation and comparison.

Since the 1930s, GIA had been working on an accurate, objective color-grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds. The goal was to develop a system based on absolutes, instead of relative terms and vague descriptions. In 1953, GIA, under RTL’s direction, introduced the GIA D-to-Z color scale, choosing the letter “D” for the top grade (colorless) precisely because the letter had negative associations and so was unlikely to be misinterpreted or misused.

GIA's D-to-Z Color Scale is the industry standard for grading the color of colorless to light yellow diamonds.

GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is the industry standard for grading the color of colorless to light yellow diamonds.

In addition to establishing a color scale, RTL and his colleagues defined the methods that would be used to grade a diamond’s color accurately and consistently. These included determining the type of lighting and neutral background with which a diamond should be evaluated, prescribing precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed, and developing master stones: sets of diamonds of predetermined color value against which the subject diamond is carefully compared.

The D-to-Z diamond color terminology RTL and his colleagues pioneered is now used around the world, and strict color-grading procedures are followed by the GIA laboratory.

This engagement ring has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring.

Understanding the 4Cs is essential if you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring. This one has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades that range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3).

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades that range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3).

Clarity:  The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – Flawless to I3

Diamond clarity grading was another area that was plagued by inconsistencies in terminology and methods. Some trade professionals used terms like perfect in addition to without flaws and with imperfections, which were vague and imprecise. Others used terms we recognize today, such as VS, VVS, and included, but without any agreed-upon definitions.  RTL and Benson used these terms in creating a clarity-grading scale, but defined precise categories and expanded the number of grades within each category to account for the array of diamonds in the market. Fine-tuned in subsequent years, the GIA Clarity Scale today consists of six categories ranging from Flawless to Included and contains 11 specific grades.

This precision in clarity grading was made possible by another GIA innovation: the introduction of the gemological microscope as a tool for clarity grading. Using the microscope, GIA graders plot the inclusions and blemishes in all diamonds for which a full GIA Diamond Grading Report has been requested.

A plotting diagram, a feature of all GIA Diamond Grading Reports, uses specific symbols to map a diamond’s various inclusions and blemishes.

A plotting diagram, a feature of all GIA Diamond Grading Reports, uses specific symbols to map a diamond’s various inclusions and blemishes.

Cut: Evaluating a Diamond’s Interaction with Light

The impact of Cut – how well a diamond interacts with light – was another attribute that RTL and his associates wanted to better explain and standardize. Originally, RTL turned to the work of Belgian mathematician and diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky to help determine “ideal” proportions for a round brilliant cut diamond. RTL’s contribution included a rating system with deductions for proportions that deviated from those.

Because of GIA’s efforts to standardize the evaluation of diamond cut, round brilliants such as these can now be objectively graded.

Because of GIA’s efforts to standardize the evaluation of diamond cut, round brilliants such as these can now be objectively graded. Courtesy: Supreme Jewelry

GIA’s system for evaluating cut has been modified over the decades. In 2006, after years of extensive research that included advanced computer modeling and observational studies, GIA introduced the GIA cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds. Today, the GIA Cut Scale, ranging from Excellent to Poor, describes how successfully a diamond interacts with light to deliver the brightness, fire and scintillation we associate with a fine round brilliant.

The GIA Cut Scale assesses the overall cut quality of each diamond individually, taking into account such features as proportions, table size, polish and symmetry.

The GIA Cut Scale assesses the overall cut quality of each diamond individually, taking into account such features as proportions, table size, polish and symmetry.

Many factors contribute to the evaluation of a diamond’s cut, including the size of the facets, girdle thickness and total depth.

Many factors contribute to the evaluation of a diamond’s cut, including the size of the facets, girdle thickness and total depth.

More than the 4Cs: The World Standard

Using the latest scientific advances to establish grading standards that provide consistent, repeatable results, GIA has revolutionized the jewelry industry. With the framework provided by the 4Cs, it has transformed the way diamond quality is determined and communicated and, ultimately, how diamonds are bought and sold.

These standards are strictly followed by the GIA laboratory in its nine locations worldwide. They allow GIA to deliver objective, consistent diamond grading results anywhere in the world. It is important to note that although the terminology introduced by GIA has been adopted by other laboratories worldwide, only the GIA laboratory has the proprietary equipment and procedures to grade diamonds to these standards.

All this critical information becomes part of a GIA Diamond Grading Report. With it, you’ll know the essential facts about the diamond you’re considering.

1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting.

The GIA Diamond Grading System provides a complete description of diamonds such as this 1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Why ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report? Read more and decide for yourself.

Protect your diamond engagement ring from damage or loss by making the right buying decision and then keeping it like new for the rest of your life. Here are some tips on how to safeguard your treasured possession.

1. Before You Buy, Learn About Diamond Durability

Diamonds are the hardest gemstones on earth – they rank 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness – but they can still suffer damage. Diamonds have clarity characteristics called blemishes and inclusions. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Inclusions are internal characteristics either totally enclosed within a diamond or extending into the diamond from its surface.

Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle, can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. (A girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating its upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts, and functioning as the diamond’s setting edge.) For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns. The size, number, location, relief and nature of the inclusions within a diamond are considered when its clarity grade is assigned. You should take into account the types of clarity characteristics before you purchase the stone.

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains essential clarity information about the diamond you’re considering. In addition to providing an objective assessment of the diamond’s color, cut and carat weight, the report also contains your diamond’s clarity grade along with a map of your diamond’s clarity characteristics. Called a plotting diagram, the color-coded map shows the types of inclusions and blemishes the diamond has and their precise locations. Learn more about the plotting diagram.

Princess cut diamond with V-shaped prongs.

Since the corners on a princess cut diamond are vulnerable to chipping, select an engagement ring setting with V-shaped prongs to protect them. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

2. Know Which Diamond Shapes and Cuts Will Require Special Care

Some diamond shapes and cuts are more vulnerable to chipping than others because they have points or sharp corners. The rectangular or square shaped princess cut is one example. The marquise, pear and heart shapes are others. This is not to say you shouldn’t buy one of these shapes; just make sure your diamond is in a setting that protects areas that are more susceptible to chipping. Very thin girdles, sometimes called knife-edge girdles, also pose a greater risk of damage, regardless of the diamond shape.

Diamonds have cleavage, which is the tendency of certain gems and minerals to break or split somewhat easily along crystallographic planes due to their atomic structure. Diamonds are tougher in the directions where the atoms are bonded tightly together, and less tough where they’re not so tightly bonded. This means that diamonds are more likely to be damaged on or near a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane. Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

3. Protect Your Diamond by Choosing a Secure Setting

A diamond in an engagement ring is often held in its mounting by prongs. A prong is a narrow metal support, typically used in groups of four to six. When it comes to protecting your diamond, a six-prong setting can offer more protection than a four-prong setting. In the event a prong breaks, a six-prong setting is more likely to hold the diamond in place. The two additional prongs might also provide a little extra protection for the girdle during daily wear. There are pros and cons to using four or six prongs.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting.

This 1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting. If one prong breaks, the other five will probably hold the stone in its place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Another choice that offers considerable protection is the bezel setting – a style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place. A bezel setting helps prevent the center stone from falling out, and it protects the girdle against bumps, bangs and other accidents. Partial bezels and V-shaped prongs also protect vulnerable points and corners of diamonds.

0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected

The 0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

 

A tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting.

Although striking and unusual, a tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond Company

4. Protect Your Diamond with a Laser Inscription

Diamonds graded by GIA often have their grading report numbers microscopically inscribed on their girdles. This laser inscription is automatically applied to all diamonds that come with either a GIA Diamond Dossier or Diamond FocusTM report. It’s an optional, low-cost additional service for diamonds with GIA Diamond Grading Reports.

A laser inscription serves as a secure identifying feature, which links the diamond to its specific report data. Viewable under 10× magnification with a simple jeweler’s loupe, the inscribed report number can be matched to the diamond’s physical report or entered into GIA Report Check, GIA’s online database containing the diamond’s grading details. Should your diamond be stolen and later recovered, a laser inscription may help the police identify it.

By the way, you’re not limited to inscribing a report number – you can also inscribe a short message, a special date or other meaningful symbol.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind. Photo: Al Gilbertson/GIA

5. After You Buy, Get Your Diamond Appraised and Insured

The emotional value of your engagement ring is priceless, but it does have a monetary value. That’s why insuring it is a smart thing to do. Most homeowner’s and renter’s insurance policies offer relatively inexpensive coverage for jewelry theft. Make sure your policy also covers damage and loss. Be sure to read it carefully.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion. Courtesy: Sylvie

Many insurance companies will require an appraisal in order to determine your diamond engagement ring’s replacement value. An appraisal is an evaluation of diamonds or other jewelry, usually for insurance or estate purposes. Appraisals normally provide a detailed description of the pieces being appraised, including the exact measurements of the important gemstones, together with (for diamonds) their color and clarity grades, plots showing the location of inclusions or blemishes, and information on the properties and make. They then state an estimated value.

You can find a local appraiser by consulting a list of professional appraisal associations. Many of these organizations require that their appraisers have a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma in addition to supplemental appraisal training. They also expect members to uphold the highest ethical and professional standards.

1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage.

You’ll want to insure this 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

6. Protect Your Diamond by Taking It Off

Diamond engagement rings are meant for a lifetime of daily wear, but they’re not indestructible. Prongs can shift and loosen over time. Exercise, gardening, catching on clothing and accidental bangs all may take their toll.

Even washing the dishes with an engagement ring on isn’t ideal (how many stories have you read about a ring going down a drain?). Wearing it in cold weather can be risky; fingers shrink and rings can slide around. A good way to protect your diamond is to remove your engagement ring before these kinds of activities.

You’ve heard that only a diamond can scratch a diamond? Well, storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can cause chips and other damage as well as scratches. One solution is to store your diamond ring or other jewels individually in padded boxes or soft pouches. Make sure you place only one piece of jewelry in each bag or box.

1.01 ct pear shaped diamond with surrounding melee

To protect the 1.01 ct pear shaped diamond and surrounding melee, be sure to take the ring off before gardening or performing other risky activities. To avoid inadvertently scratching or chipping the stones, store the ring individually in a box or soft bag. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring with Regular Check-Ups

It’s a good idea to get the prongs in your engagement ring checked every six months for potential damage. If this seems too frequent for you, use your yearly wedding anniversary as a convenient reminder to get the prongs checked. Many insurance companies also require that the ring receive regular check-ups. Contact your carrier to find its requirements.

Tightening prongs is a routine task for a bench jeweler. You can check if a prong is loose by seeing if the stone moves when you gently push it (if it moves, it’s loose). Gaps between the diamond and the setting are another warning sign. Look at the ring with a 10× loupe to help see such gaps and spot damaged prongs.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

8. Keep Your Diamond Engagement Ring Clean

Dirt won’t break or chip your diamond, but it will dull its appearance. You can clean your diamond by using a lint-free cloth or washing it with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Don’t use abrasive household cleaners, or steam cleaners. Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for untreated diamonds; however, treated diamonds can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners. You can briefly dip your diamond in a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. It’s also a good idea to have your ring periodically cleaned by a professional jeweler. If you follow the check-up advice above, your diamond engagement ring will retain its sparkle for a lifetime.

Now that you know how to protect your diamond, it’s time to debunk eight common diamond engagement ring myths.

Art Nouveau engagement rings are exquisitely beautiful, but rare. You can achieve the romance of Art Nouveau style in your own ring by using design elements from the period, like the whiplash line, enamel and colored gems. Here’s how. (more…)